Spicy Sweet Potato Fries

EASIER

VEGETARIAN

GLUTEN-FREE

Makes 4 to 6 servings

The problem with sweet potato fries is their inherent mushiness. To get more crunch per fry, you must treat the sweet potato as an entirely different vegetable than the potato. After all, sweet potatoes are not actually tubers, but rather rhizomes, related to ginger. Because of the extra sugar and moisture content in sweet potatoes, you need to turn these fries quite a few times, making sure all sides come in contact with the hot baking sheet. For even crunchier fries, set the baking sheet in the oven as it heats to get a good sear on one side of each fry.

4 medium sweet potatoes (about 3 pounds), peeled

3 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon light brown sugar

1 teaspoon table salt

Up to 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1. Position the rack in the center of the oven; heat the oven to 400°F.

2. Cut a small slice off one end of each sweet potato so it will stand up tall on your cutting board or work surface. Cut each sweet potato in half widthwise. Set them with the large cut side down on a cutting board. Use an apple slicer to press down through each sweet potato, slicing it into wedges.

3. Place the wedges in a medium roasting or broiler pan. Add the oil, cumin, garlic powder, brown sugar, salt, and pepper. Toss well to coat evenly.

4. Roast, turning several times, until the wedges are lightly browned and crisp at the edges but tender at their centers, about 45 minutes. Cool a couple of minutes before serving.