NO-COOK DESSERT SUMMER ROLLS

Summer rolls are usually savory fare: rice paper wrappers surrounding carrot matchsticks, sprouts, shrimp, what have you. They’re simple to make: no frying, no baking. And incredibly fresh tasting. So we decided to morph the classic into dessert rolls. They have less filling overall than their savory kin. You’ll end up with more rice paper “layers” around the filling, reminiscent—in the spirit of dessert—of a puff pastry.

Test Kitchen Notes

• Rice paper wrappers are dried, thin, milky white (if still a bit translucent) sheets made from rice flour. They’re available in the Asian aisle of large supermarkets or from suppliers online. Once purchased, the wrappers can be stored in a cool, dry pantry indefinitely.

• To make your life easier, look for square rice paper wrappers, which are easier to roll into filled tubes.

• Rice paper wrappers must be soaked before using. A shallow soup bowl works best. Don’t soak more than one wrapper at a time. They get soft and tear in no time.

• Pull the wrappers out of the water like you might pull a shirt out of the wash, letting it hang and drip for a second before setting it down.

• Change the water often, after every five or six rolls, so it stays warm to soften each rice paper wrapper in about 20 seconds.

• You can make the rolls up to 2 hours in advance. Cover the platter with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator.