CREAMY JALAPEÑO SALSA

images MAKES 2 TO 2½ CUPS

Here’s my spin on an iconic condiment from Tacodeli, a chain of taquerias in Austin, Texas. You can get Tacodeli tacos all over town, and they have four salsas: mild Salsa Verde, medium Salsa Roja, hot Salsa Doña, and wicked-hot Salsa Habanero. The Doña is my favorite. It’s a smooth, creamy puree based on blistered jalapeños. I dissected it and put in what I think they put in their version. If you’re having a taco party (or making rice and beans, burritos, or a Mexican-inspired bowl), definitely put this salsa on the table to kick up the spice. —CHAD

1 pound jalapeño chiles

1/3 cup everyday olive oil, plus some for coating chiles and garlic

½ cup peeled garlic cloves (18 to 20 cloves)

Small handful fresh cilantro leaves (about 3 tablespoons)

½ tablespoon sea salt

image Heat a broiler and set a rack 4 to 5 inches from the heat.

image On a baking sheet, rub the jalapeños all over with a little oil. Broil until blistered and blackened all over, about 10 minutes, shaking the pan a few times so all sides get charred. Remove to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let steam for 10 minutes.

image On the same baking sheet, toss the garlic with a little oil. Broil the garlic, turning once, until darkly browned (but not burnt) on both sides, 5 to 6 minutes total. Alternatively, you can brown the garlic on the stovetop in a well-seasoned cast-iron pan.

image When the chiles are cool enough to handle, put on gloves and peel off the skins. For salsa that will kick your ass, leave in the seeds. For medium, rip open the pods and remove half the seeds. For a “won’t burn your face off” salsa, remove all the seeds.

image Put the peeled chiles, garlic, cilantro, and salt in a blender (preferably high-speed). Start blending on low speed, gradually getting to high. Gradually blend in the 1/3 cup oil until the salsa is smooth and creamy. If you like a thinner salsa, add a splash or two of water. Use immediately or keep at room temperature for a few hours. You can also keep the salsa in the fridge for at least a week before using.