Wine can be made all over the place, but there are currently ten major wine regions in the world. From Old World regions that have been making wine for thousands of years to New World regions that are just getting started, in this chapter we will take some quick trips to the top producing countries. We’ll go over each region’s top varietals, as well as get you thinking about terroir by exploring their soils. There won’t be a geography quiz at the end of the week, but getting a grasp on the lay of the lands is essential to knowing and understanding what the hell you’re drinking.
A good wine is a mirror to the land where its grapes were grown, reflective of the soil, the climate, and indigenous (or not) vegetation surrounding the vineyard. These environmental factors are what make up the fancy French word I pronounce correctly one-third of the time, terroir (tare-wah). Terroir is the unique character of the land, and it plays just as big of a part in influencing the taste of wine as the grapes themselves. From the volcanic ground of Mount Etna to the cool, marine layers of the California coast, it’s the natural elements of the vineyards that make each region’s wines taste different, even if they are the same varietal.
Take Grenache for example. This red wine is produced all over the world and can taste like a pouch of liquefied fruit snacks or a spicy berry licorice, all depending on where it is grown. A Garnacha (aka Grenache) from the south of Spain is higher in alcohol content (ABV) and sugar because the climate is much warmer than the cool climates of the south of France where a Grenache is grown. Similarly, you can taste differences with Gamay depending on where it is grown. The granite soils of Beaujolais have a different effect on the wine than the limestone of the Loire Valley.
Wine regions are respected in the same way many producers are, renowned for the quality and characteristics they bring to a wine. It’s the difference between buying a generic leather bag from H&M and buying a soft, handcrafted Italian leather bag. Many countries have government-sanctioned designations and certifications so that you aren’t being sold a bunch of swill labeled as Champagne when it’s grown in Chino Hills, California. You may recognize acronyms such as AOP, AOC, or DOC, all respectfully meaning “Yo, this shit is legit!” These designations are regulated with strict codes that specify how wines can be made, what grapes can be used, and even how long the wine can be aged in certain regions. While these designations do give credit to the validity of a wine’s region, they don’t necessarily mean the wine is awesome. A winemaker can play by the rules and still make bad wine, just like a winemaker can throw middle fingers at the rules, not get certified, and still make delicious wine. Think of it more like Oprah’s Book Club—trustworthy, but not the only indicator of a good read.
The sheer number of regions is daunting, but you don’t need to worry about knowing each and every one. If memorizing the names of plots of land was a requirement to enjoy and know about wine, I would not be here today. It’s just important to start thinking about regions and terroir, and their effect on wine and their effect on what wines you like (or don’t). Take a second with each wine and register where it is from while you’re drinking it. Even if you have no idea where that place is, still take a moment to put it in your brain. You don’t need to have visited Tuscany to think to yourself, “All right, Tuscany, Italy, got it,” and imagine a faraway villa on a sunlit hillside, perhaps with Diane Lane on the balcony, and a pool of cacio e pepe.* The more wine you drink, the more familiar you will become with regions. No need for flash cards, because when you find a region you love, you will have a literal thirst for knowledge.
Now let’s get to jet-setting. We have two leisurely legs to our trip: Old World and New World. Get cozy with these terms because they are used in two different ways in the wine world. Not only can they be used to reference physical locations, but they can also be used as descriptors. Both Old World and New World relate to specific styles of wine traditional for that area, but it’s not like you can’t make an Old World–style wine in a New World region.
Old World wines are from countries that have been making wine for thousands of years, such as France, Germany, Italy, Portugal, and Spain. These wines are lighter in body, higher in acidity, and lower in alcohol.
From the bare necessities of life to its most decadent luxuries, the French are always elemental but elegant. It’s no surprise that this is where the notion of terroir really took off, because the French value simplicity over convolution. This minimalism and respect for the land produces timeless wines that are as casual as a striped T-shirt and as sumptuous as quilted Chanel. Drinking French wines is a lesson in subtle style and sophistication, whether you’re enjoying a blend from a tiny village or a revered red off the auction block of Sotheby’s. Here are some of the most recognized regions you’ll find in France.
Northeast France
THE GIST: Dry, aromatic, and fruit-forward white wines that are heavily inspired by their German neighbors
SOIL TYPES: Clay, granite, limestone, sandstone, volcanic rock
MAIN VARIETALS: Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Riesling, and Sylvaner
East Central France
THE GIST: Light, tart, glou-glou reds
SOIL TYPES: Granite, limestone, sandstone
CRUS/SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Brouilly, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié, Saint-Amour
Western France
THE GIST: Elegant, medium-bodied blends
SOIL TYPES: Bordeaux is divided into two banks; the left bank is known for gravel soils and the right bank is known for clay and limestone.
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH:
LEFT BANK: Margaux, Médoc, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Julien
RIGHT BANK: Canon-Fronsac, Côtes-de-Blaye, Côtes-de-Bourg, Fronsac, Pomerol, Saint-Émilion
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon
East Central France
THE GIST: The gold standard of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
SOIL TYPES: Limestone, chalk
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Chablis, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise, Côte de Nuits, Mâconnais
MAIN VARIETALS: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Northern France
THE GIST: The best of the bubbles
SOIL TYPES: Limestone, chalk
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Côte des Blancs, Côte de Sézanne, Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, the Aube
MAIN VARIETALS: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Southeast France
THE GIST: Wide range, from savory and sexy to light and approachable
SOIL TYPES: Clay, granite, limestone, sand
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH:
NORTHERN RHÔNE: Condrieu, Cornas, Côte-Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, Saint-Péray
SOUTHERN RHÔNE: Beaumes de Venise, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Lirac, Rasteau, Tavel, Vacqueyras, Vinsobres
MAIN VARIETALS: Cinsault, Counoise, Grenache Noir, Marsanne, Roussanne, Syrah, Ugni Blanc, Viognier
Eastern France
THE GIST: Out there, oxidized white wines
SOIL TYPE: Gravel
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Arbois, Château-Chalon, Côtes du Jura, Crémant du Jura, L’Étoile, Macvin du Jura
MAIN VARIETALS: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Trousseau
Southern France
THE GIST: Subtle, rustic reds
SOIL TYPES: Chalk, gravel, limestone, sand, silt
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Corbières, Coteaux du Languedoc, Faugères, Minervois, Saint-Chinian
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Viognier
Western France
THE GIST: Lots of acid
SOIL TYPES: Granite, gravel, limestone, volcanic rock
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Bourgueil, Chinon, Crémant de Loire, Montlouis, Muscadet, Pouilly-Fumé, Sancerre, Touraine, Vouvray
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Côt, Gamay, Grolleau, Pineau d’Aunis, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc
Southeast France
THE GIST: Rosé all day
SOIL TYPES: Clay, limestone, sandstone, shale
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Bandol, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, Les Baux-de-Provence
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Grenache, Marsanne, Mourvèdre, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Syrah
From their prolific Rieslings to the fresh Müller-Thurgau, Germany’s white wines are some of the most revered in the world, with their fruit-forward palate and dynamic acidity. But their reds, like the mouthful Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Dornfelder are just as fresh and lively due to the cool German climates. While you may have trouble pronouncing anything on a German label, you won’t have any problems drinking what’s in the bottle.
West Central Germany
THE GIST: Racy Rieslings from Germany’s coolest climate
SOIL TYPES: Slate
MAIN VARIETALS: Müller-Thurgau, Riesling
Southwest Germany
THE GIST: Warmer-climate dry wines from varied varietals
SOIL TYPES: Calcareous, sandstone, basalt, volcanic
MAIN VARIETALS: Dornfelder, Müller-Thurgau, Riesling
Central Germany
THE GIST: Fruit-forward wines with pronounced minerality
SOIL TYPES: Marl, slate, sand
MAIN VARIETALS: Riesling, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)
Italy feels like home. It’s in the people and in the food, rustic and loud with big hugs and red sauces. This sentiment also comes standard in their wine. Because in Italy, wine is just like family and food: an integral part of daily life that is served out of both love and necessity. When drinking Italian wines, remember that they are generally made to complement the region’s cuisine, because Italians do not separate wine as a beverage as much as they include it as a part of a meal. Whether it’s with dinner with loved ones or an aperitif with your cat, you can always count on Italian wines to leave your heart as full as a big bowl of bucatini.
Central Southern Italy
THE GIST: Rich, herbaceous reds
SOIL TYPES: Clay, stone
MAIN VARIETALS: Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Trebbiano
Northeast Italy
THE GIST: Sexy, energized white wines
SOIL TYPES: Clay, gravel, sand, sandstone
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Grigio, Ribolla Gialla, Sauvignon Blanc
Northwest Italy
THE GIST: The place for powerful, poignant Nebbiolo
SOIL TYPES: Clay, limestone, sand
SUBREGION TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Asti
MAIN VARIETALS: Arneis, Barbera, Barolo, Cortese, Dolcetto, Moscato, Nebbiolo
Western Island
THE GIST: Salty white wines that taste like vacation in a bottle
SOIL TYPES: Granite, limestone, sandstone
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cannonau (Grenache), Carignan, Malvasia, Moscato, Vermentino
Southern Island
THE GIST: Dark, fruit-forward reds and oceanic whites
SOIL TYPES: Sand, rock, volcanic rock
MAIN VARIETALS: Catarratto, Grillo, Inzolia, Nero d’Avola
Northern Italy
THE GIST: Austrian wines with Italian sharpness and spice
SOIL TYPE: Gravel
MAIN VARIETALS: Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer, Müller-Thurgau, Schiava
Central Italy
THE GIST: Home of Chianti
SOIL TYPES: Sand, rock
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano
Central Italy
THE GIST: Fruity reds and minerally whites
SOIL TYPES: Clay, limestone, volcanic rock
MAIN VARIETALS: Grechetto, Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Trebbiano
Northeast Italy
THE GIST: Great red blends, and the white wine Soave
SOIL TYPES: Clay, gravel, sand, volcanic rock
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Corvina, Merlot, Pinot Grigio, Prosecco, Rondinella, Trebbiano
Portugal isn’t just for port. Portugal is also home to the refreshing, effervescent white wine Vinho Verde and dry reds from the Douro region.
SOIL TYPES: Sand, limestone
MAIN VARIETALS: Alvarinho, Arinto, Baga, Loureiro, Tempranillo (known as Tinta Roriz or Aragonez), Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
Though it may seem like Austria makes wine much like its neighbor Germany, Austria is actually warmer. Most famous for the crisp white Grüner Veltliner, Austria also produces some of the finest dry, full-bodied whites.
SOIL TYPES: Alluvial, granite, gneiss, loess, limestone, slate
MAIN VARIETALS: Blaufränkisch, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Welschriesling, Zweigelt
Greek wines are much like its landscape: refreshing but volatile, like a cold ocean mist after a wave crashes on a volcanic beach. The diverse climates of Greece, ranging from warm and Mediterranean to cool and coastal, allow for both rich, tannic reds like Xynomavro and briny whites like Assyrtiko.
SOIL TYPES: Limestone, volcanic, loam, clay, schist, marl
MAIN VARIETALS: Agiorgitiko, Assyrtiko, Mandilaria, Roditis, Xynomavro
When I think of Spain, I think of its rugged terrain and its rich food. Their wines are reflective of both of these things, both highly textural and opulent, like biting into a croquette with a gravelly coat and a velvety center. They’re rough around the edges, but in a good way. As Spanish cuisine begins to move from paellas and toward lighter, modern dishes, you will find their wines adapting as well.
Northeast Spain
THE GIST: Cava, cava, cava! And heavy-hitting reds
SOIL TYPES: Gravel, sand, silt
MAIN VARIETALS: Chardonnay, Garnacha, Macabeo, Merlot, Monastrell (Mourvèdre), Parellada, Xarel-lo (all of which can be used for Cava as well as single varietal white wines), Tempranillo
Northeast Spain
THE GIST: Massive red wines
SOIL TYPES: Rock, slate
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Merlot, Tempranillo
Northwest Spain
THE GIST: Aromatic white wines
SOIL TYPES: Granite, sand, clay
MAIN VARIETAL: Albariño
Central Spain
THE GIST: Flinty, rich, and vibrant red wines
SOIL TYPES: Sand, limestone, gravel
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Tempranillo, Tinto Fino
Northern Central Spain
THE GIST: Renowned Tempranillos
SOIL TYPES: Clay, limestone, sandstone
MAIN VARIETALS: Garnacha, Macabeo (Viura), Tempranillo
Northern Central Spain
THE GIST: Herbaceous but juicy white wines
SOIL TYPES: Gravel, stone, limestone
MAIN VARIETALS: Verdejo
New World wines are from countries that have only recently gotten into the wine game, like Argentina, Australia, and the US. These wines are ripe, fruity, and high in alcohol.
If you haven’t had much Argentinian wine, you’re not alone. Despite being one of the most prolific wine-producing countries in the world, up until recently, most of Argentina’s wines were primarily consumed by the Argentinians themselves. But with the explosive success of their Malbec, which has now taken precedence over the French version of the varietal, Argentina has begun to export more of their rustic, ripe wines. With everything from velvety reds to aromatic and floral whites, Argentina has something for everyone and so much to explore.
Northern Argentina
THE GIST: Argentina’s oldest wine region, known for Torrontés
SOIL TYPES: Clay, silt
MAIN VARIETALS: Syrah, Torrontés
Central Western Argentina
THE GIST: This is where your favorite Malbec is from.
SOIL TYPES: Sand, silt, clay
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cereza, Chardonnay, Criolla Grande, Malbec, Tempranillo
Southern Argentina
THE GIST: Crisp and carbonite reds from Argentina’s coolest region
SOIL TYPES: Alluvial, stones, gravel, limestone
MAIN VARIETALS: Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir
Northwest Argentina
THE GIST: Full-bodied reds grown amongst red-rock formations
SOIL TYPES: Sand, clay
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Tannat
Australia may be best known for their jammy and full-bodied reds, but the warm-climate continent down under has more to offer than the cheap and sweet wines with furry outback friends on the label. Much like California, Australia is starting to experiment in their cooler climates, making more delicate wines that are closer in resemblance to French Syrah than grocery store Shiraz.
Southeast Australia
THE GIST: Divine aged Sémillons
SOIL TYPES: Loam, clay, sandstone
MAIN VARIETALS: Chardonnay, Sémillon, Shiraz, Tempranillo, Verdelho
Southeast Australia
THE GIST: Old-vine Shiraz and Rhône blends
SOIL TYPES: Terra rossa, limestone, sandy clay loam
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Riesling, Shiraz
Southeast Australia
THE GIST: Sparkling wines and cool-climate Pinots
SOIL TYPES: Cambrian, granite, red calcareous clay
MAIN VARIETALS: Chardonnay, Muscadelle, Pinot Noir
Southwest Australia
THE GIST: Vibrant Bordeaux-style wines
SOIL TYPES: Gravel, sandy loam
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Sémillon, Shiraz
South Africa has been growing grapes for more than three hundred years, but is now becoming one of the leading New World wine regions. With both warm and cool climates, you can get juicy, high-alcohol reds like Cabernet that rival California’s, as well as cooler, highly acidic whites like Sauvignon Blanc. Oh, and South Africa has their own grape! The Pinotage is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault.
Southwest South Africa
THE GIST: Rich red wines and tropical white wines
SOIL TYPES: Sandstone, shale, granite
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, Shiraz
Southwest South Africa
THE GIST: Treasure trove of everything from rich wines to easy drinkers
SOIL TYPES: Granite, alluvial sand, sandstone
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Pinotage, Shiraz
The long and narrow country of Chile is bordered by the Andes Mountains and 2,700 miles of Pacific coastline. And between the two, you have one of the most ideal winegrowing environments, with warm, dry summers and irrigation that occurs naturally from the snow melting off the Andes. Chile is jam-packed full of different terroirs and wine styles, ranging from acid-driven white wines to elegant, age-worthy reds.
Northern Chile
THE GIST: Hot days and cool nights make for fruit-forward reds
SOIL TYPES: Clay, sand, granite, alluvial
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah
Northern Chile
THE GIST: Cool-climate, acidic white wines
SOIL TYPES: Sandy loam, clay
MAIN VARIETALS: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc
North Central Chile
THE GIST: Large region that has everything from Bordeaux-style reds to experimental whites
SOIL TYPES: Alluvial, granite, clay, loam, gravel
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Merlot, Riesling, Viognier
New Zealand is one of the most up-and-coming wine regions in New World wines. While they are mostly known for their white wines, all of New Zealand’s wines are punctuated with fresh crispness that is indicative of their steadily cool climate.
SOIL TYPES: Greywacke, sandstone, stones, limestone, schist
MAIN VARIETALS: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc
Up until fairly recently, no one thought America could make great wine. Most Americans didn’t even think so. As early as 1939, Californian growers started advertising in magazines with illustrations of dolled-up housewives talking about how much their guests loved wine, with slogans like “Be considerate, serve wine!” Despite all the free How to Cook with Wine pamphlets the California Wine Advisory Board gave out, no one gave a shit about American wines until 1976. At a wine-tasting competition called the Judgment of Paris, California wines beat out French wines in blind tastings, propelling American wines to the global stage. Bold Cabernet Sauvignon and oaky Chardonnay became the new gold standard, and eventually American wine’s albatross. Today, America is pushing past jam and butter, and even beyond California, with emerging regions in New York and the Pacific Northwest. One might even say we’re making America’s wine great again.
THE GIST: This region has both classic and oak driven, and light and terroir driven wines.
SOIL TYPES: Clay loam, sandy loam, volcanic, gravel
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Mendocino, Napa, Sonoma
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc
THE GIST: Experimenting with Rhône Valley varietals
SOIL TYPES: Alluvial, loam, rocks, granite
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel
THE GIST: Most famous for Pinot, but is becoming a hub for Italian styles
SOIL TYPES: Sand, limestone, calcareous, shale, loam, gravel, alluvial
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Syrah
THE GIST: No rules, doing as they damn well please
SOIL TYPES: Rock, shale, granitic, sand
MAIN VARIETALS: Carignan, Counoise, Grenache, Petite Sirah, Sangiovese
THE GIST: Badass Rieslings worthy of being aged
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Finger Lakes, Long Island
SOIL TYPES: Silt, loam, shale, clay, sand
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Concord, French Hybrids (Baco Noir, Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc), Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Riesling
THE GIST: Cool-climate heaven
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Willamette Valley, Southern Oregon
SOIL TYPES: Silt, Jory loam, Willakenzie, gravelly loam
MAIN VARIETALS: Chardonnay, Gamay, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Syrah
THE GIST: Ripe wines full of finesse
SUBREGIONS TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH: Walla Walla, Columbia Valley
SOIL TYPES: Silt, sand, gravel
MAIN VARIETALS: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Syrah
Wine has so many perks, and globetrotting without ever leaving the couch is one of them. Every bottle is a little piece from that place in the world, and you’ll start to taste the differences (and similarities) between countries and climates. All you need to do, like everything with wine, is take a minute to think about these things as a part of your tasting. By taking note of the region in the same way you do a wine’s flavor, you’ll start building your knowledge without the stress of studying up. You don’t need to be a Rolodex of regions, but understanding how regions affect wine will help you find, recognize, and drink even more wine you love.
To-Drink List: