Surrounded by jaw-dropping beauty almost every inch of the way, on roads so quiet there are times you’re left feeling like the last person on earth, this ride takes you through the very best Yorkshire has to offer. In an increasingly overcrowded UK Sportive scene, some events are tough enough, have been around long enough, and are simply fantastic enough, to have earned the title of ‘monuments’ in cycling. The Etape du Dales is one of them. I usually avoid dictating specific routes for people to follow, preferring to point out where the hills are and leaving the rest up to you. But this well trodden path, just like the best of Britain’s climbs, should be on every rider’s bucket list. Organised by the Dave Rayner Fund (see box) it takes in the mighty Fleet Moss, Buttertubs Pass, Turf Moor, Tan Hill and Garsdale Head. It’s not a route for the undertrained. I highly recommend entering the official event, as each year it raises money for the Rayner Fund, but the roads are open all year round if you’d prefer to ride it in solitude. Here’s a run down of what you’ll face over its 180 kilometres.
If you’re not a local, base yourself near the start in Threshfield; you’ll want to get on the road early, as this is a proper ride and will take you anywhere between 6 and 10 hours to complete. Rolling away from the official start line outside the Rugby Club, fill your lungs with fresh air and prepare to wallow in the simplicity of the tiny roads and sweeping vistas. You’d be wise to roll along at a steady pace to begin with, heading north through Kettlewell and Buckden, and to keep a lid on things before you reach the first of the day’s serious obstacles: Fleet Moss. This – the southern face – is the easier of the two ascents over the ridge, but it’s still a brute. Immediately after you’ve completed the climb, it’s time for the hair-raising descent into Hawes: dead straight and starting on a 20% gradient, it will push your bike-handling skills and nerves to the limit. Once through Hawes you immediately have to tackle Buttertubs Pass, rebranded the ‘Col de Buttertubs Pass’ thanks to its inclusion in the 2014 Tour de France. It’s tough from the very start up to some jagged rocks, where the slope gently eases. For the last couple of miles it will be the wind, if you’re cycling into it, that will bite more than the gradient. A welcome jaunt through Swaledale follows and, well and truly warmed up, you’re ready to traverse Turf Moor. This climb ramps up viciously from the main road, before easing slightly, and along its course are two short drops, the second of which holds a ford at its base. It’s a brave man or woman that hits a wet and greasy ford at 25mph, but fortune favours the brave as you’ll take some much needed momentum into the following climb if you stay on your bike. Although you could also crash and end up in hospital with a broken hip, so be warned – dismount and use the bridge if you are at all unsure.
THE ROUTE
Next up is the mighty Tan Hill: 10 kilometres of almost continuous climbing up to the highest public house in Britain. On a good day, the views up here are spectacular, with blissfully empty moors stretching as far as the eye can see. On a bad day, you’ll be stuck in the pub for a week sheltering from a snowstorm, with nothing but beer and pork scratchings to survive on.
After crossing Tan Hill, the apex of the ride, you’d expect it to be all downhill. Not quite. There’s plenty more climbing to come, with an ascent along the B6270 towards Nateby that always takes me by surprise. It’s not a show-stopper and it doesn’t have a famous name, but it’s still punishing on the legs. This stretch between Keld and Nateby has to be my favourite part of the whole route. Rolling up and down and twisting from side to side, it’s a joy to ride. Be sure to harness the momentum of the small dips to help you crest the climbs that follow. And then speed your way up to the top of Lambs Moss. From here you have yet another free flowing and fast descent into Nateby – watch out for the sheep. You’re now out of Yorkshire and The Dales, but it’s not long until you return to face the toughest hill of the day: the fearsome Garsdale Head, with its vicious 25% starting corner. This punishing climb has proven the undoing of many riders in the past, particularly after a full day’s riding has reduced their legs to jelly. For the stronger riders though, it’s a welcome challenge. Embracing its severity (and most likely begging for more pain), it’s here that they pull away from their rivals and leave them trailing behind.
More pain is in store as the road continues up on to Stoop Moss, past the Ribblehead viaduct, and on to the final climb: Fountains Fell. Comprising a series of ramps – each ascent beating the legs into submission and draining the body’s last reserves – it appears to take an age to reach the summit. But once over the brow you’re at last on the final stretch, and the last 15 kilometres are either completely flat or downhill. If the wind is behind you and you’re in a group of strong riders, you’ll tick these off in under 25 minutes. Squeeze every last drop of fuel from the tank on your way to the mandatory sprint finish where you complete the loop in Threshfield.
