SPONGE
8 eggs
250g/1¼ cups golden caster/superfine sugar
250g/1¾ cups + 2tbsp plain/all-purpose flour
3tsp baking powder
100g/7tbsp butter, melted and cooled
80ml/⅓ cup Marsala
MOUSSE
75g/½ cup hazelnuts, toasted and skinned
3 eggs, separated
5tbsp golden caster/superfine sugar
120g/4¼oz dark/bittersweet chocolate, melted
A pinch of salt
125ml/½ cup double/heavy cream
FILLING
500ml/2 cups double/heavy cream
250g/1 cup mascarpone
70ml/4½tbsp Marsala
EQUIPMENT
Food processor
2 x 20cm/8in sandwich tins/pans
20cm/8in loose-bottomed tin/pan
My stepdad Geoff, never normally a fan of desserts, will rarely pass up a chance to order a tiramisu. And so, after the extraordinary lunch in Piedmont, though we all shook our heads at the idea of another course (tiramisù alla nicciola della mamma), he made sure there was some on the table for us all to share. What arrived was unlike any tiramisu I’d ever eaten. Lighter than we expected, served in an impressively tall slice, and without the familiar flavour of coffee, we fell upon it eagerly. I’m not sure Geoff even got a look-in. What follows is my mum’s, and then my, attempts to recreate it at home. It’s pretty close, and is now our favourite tiramisu-ish dessert.
Serves at least 10
1. First, make the sponge cake. Preheat the oven to 160C fan/350F/gas 4 and grease and line the sandwich tins with butter and parchment paper. Beat the eggs and sugar until thick, pale, and fluffy. When you lift the whisk, the batter should leave a trail behind. Sift in the flour and baking powder, and fold in gently. Pour the cool melted butter down the side of the bowl, and fold it in too.
2. Divide the batter between the cake tins, and bake for 25–30 minutes in the centre of the oven, until golden brown on top, and shrinking away from the side of the tins. Cool for 10 minutes in the tins, and then completely on a wire rack. Slice each in half horizontally.
3. Meanwhile, make the mousse for the top of the cake. Blitz the hazelnuts and a tablespoon of the sugar until they form a paste. Whisk together the egg yolks, 2 tablespoons of water, and 2 tablespoons of the sugar in a large bowl. Put the bowl over a pan of simmering water, ensuring that the base doesn’t touch the water. Whisk over the heat until thick ribbons form when you lift the whisk, and the mixture is at 70C/158F. Cool slightly, then fold in the melted chocolate and the hazelnut paste.
4. Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until soft peaks form. Bring the final 2 tablespoons of sugar to a simmer, along with 3 tablespoons of water. Boil until it reaches 105C/220F, then slowly add the hot syrup to the whites, beating until they form stiff peaks, and leave to cool.
5. Fold a third of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to loosen it, and then gently fold in the rest. Beat the cream to soft peaks, and fold this in too. Keep the mousse in the fridge until you’re ready to assemble the dessert.
6. To make the filling, beat the cream, mascarpone, and Marsala until light and creamy.
7. Line a cake tin with parchment paper to help the dessert come out more easily once it’s assembled. Place one of the cakes into the tin, and splash a tablespoon of the Marsala onto it. Spread a third of the mascarpone filling onto the cake, and then top with another cake, more Marsala and mascarpone mix. Repeat again, then top with the final cake, the last of the Marsala, and then the hazelnut and chocolate mousse. Level out the top, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least a couple of hours.
8. Remove from the fridge 10 minutes before serving, take out of the cake tin, throw some cocoa at the sides to decorate it if you like, and serve in slices.