Mandilli di seta (Pasta squares with pesto)

PASTA

400g/3 cups Tipo 00 flour

4 eggs (ideally ones with golden orange yolks)

1tbsp olive oil

PESTO

40g/⅓ cup pine nuts

100g/5 cups fresh basil leaves

2 cloves garlic

40g/½ cup grated Parmesan (or a vegetarian alternative)

Salt and black pepper

2tbsp olive oil

EQUIPMENT

Pasta maker (or rolling pin)

Food processor or stab mixer

Liguria is famed for its pesto. Wild, fragrant basil grows there in abundance, and pesto is the perfect vehicle for its uniquely peppery fragrance. You don’t have to make the pasta by hand – ready-made fresh lasagna sheets are a good alternative – but if you’ve not done it before, I recommend giving it a go.

Serves 4
1. To make the pasta, pour the flour into a mound on your work surface. Make a well in the middle, crack in the eggs and add the olive oil. Swirl the flour into the eggs with a fork. Knead the dough for 10 minutes or so, until a shallow indent made with your finger bounces back. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least half an hour.

2. Meanwhile, make the pesto. Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan. Tip into a small food processor, or into a container that will fit a stab mixer. Add the basil, garlic cloves, Parmesan, and seasoning, and blitz. Add the oil, a teaspoon at a time, until the pesto is a loose sauce. Taste and season again if needed.

3. If you have a pasta machine, this next step will be relatively easy. Cut your dough into 4. Working with one piece at a time, dust in flour, roll out with a rolling pin and then run through the pasta machine settings until very thin (start with the widest and run through this a couple of times to get started). Slice into large squares (like lasagna sheets) and hang to dry. If you don’t have a pasta machine, you’ll need to roll it out by hand until the pasta is just slightly thicker than a playing card.

4. Bring a big pot of generously salted water to the boil and cook until al dente. This will take only minutes, so keep an eye on it. Use a mug to reserve some of the cooking water.

5. Drain the pasta, tip it back into the pot, and add the pesto. Toss through, adding a little of the cooking water to lubricate if it’s feeling too dry. Serve the sheets in bowls, with some extra Parmesan alongside.