DISTANCE: 3km (2 miles) including La Rocca (1 mile/1.5km without La Rocca)
TIME: A half-day walk
START: Piazza del Duomo
END: Seafront
POINTS TO NOTE: Frequent trains and buses link Cefalù with Palermo (70km [44 miles] away); both take an hour and arrive at the railway station 10 minutes’ walk from the centre. By car from Palermo take the A19 and A20 or the more leisurely route along the coastal SS113. You can park along the seafront.
Cefalù is arguably the most charming resort on the Tyrrhenian coast. The medieval port retains its character, helped by a pervasive Arab atmosphere and a compact fishbone design which curls its way to the shore. The town may be a summer tourist trap (try to avoid July and August) but the old quarter, with its narrow cobbled alleys, retains its medieval air. For families in particular, Cefalù makes a welcoming base.
The steps to the Duomo
Neil Buchan-Grant/Apa Publications
Il Duomo
Start the morning in one of the outdoor cafés on Piazza del Duomo, admiring the twin-towered facade of the Arab-Norman Duomo 1 [map] (daily 8am–6.45pm, 5.30pm off season; free). The cathedral was built in 1131 by Roger II. The king had a sarcophagus made for himself, but he and his tomb are in Palermo Cathedral as he died before the Duomo here was completed. Inside, the austere nave is flanked by Roman columns spanned by slender pointed arches betraying Islamic influence.
Duomo fresco
Insight Guides
The eye is immediately drawn by the simple beauty of the mosaic of Christ Pantocrator in the apse, set above the Madonna, archangels and apostles. The All-Powerful’s blessing is the standard Orthodox form: two raised fingers symbolise the duality of Christ’s spiritual and temporal power, while the other fingers and thumb represent the Trinity. The left hand holds open the Bible with the Greek and Latin text (John 8:12) ‘I am the light of the world.’ In the purest Byzantine style this is the acknowledged masterpiece of Sicilian mosaic art.
Don’t miss the charming cathedral cloisters (chiostri; daily 10am–1pm, 3–6pm, 2–4pm off season; charge), to the left of the main entrance, and comprising three rows of elegant twin columns, with finely carved capitals.
Cefalù beach
Neil Buchan-Grant/Apa Publications
The Old Quarter
From the piazza, narrow alleys lead into the old town. The cobbled Via Mandralisca slopes down to the Museo Mandralisca 2 [map] (daily 9am–7pm, 9am–11pm in summer; charge), a small museum and home to Sicily’s most enigmatic painting. The Renaissance Portrait of an Unknown Man (1465) by the Sicilian master Antonello da Messina is famed for the sitter’s supercilious smile and Machiavellian expression. The collection was set up by Baron Mandralisca (1809–64), who discovered the portrait in a pharmacy in Lípari.
From here explore the old quarter with its warren of alleyways and some appealing relics of Cefalù’s past. At the end of Via Mandralisca turn left for the Lavatoio Medievale 3 [map], where curved steps lead down to an arcaded Arab wash-house with cold river water. Take the Via Vittorio Emanuele north to the Porta Pescara 4 [map], the old Arab port which has been a backdrop in countless films, including Cinema Paradiso.
Going back towards the cathedral, take Via XXV Novembre 1856, where you’ll find two good restaurants: La Brace, see 1, and Le Chat Noir, see 2. Alternatively head on to Corso Ruggero, the pedestrianised medieval main street, and buy a picnic to enjoy at La Rocca or the beach.
Cefalù skyline
Neil Buchan-Grant/Apa Publications
La Rocca
Above the medieval town and on the site of the original Arab town, La Rocca 5 [map] (May–Sept 9am–7pm, Oct–Apr 9am–4.30pm, but closed if wet or windy; free) affords sweeping views over Cefalù and the sea. For the pathway up, head south along Corso Ruggero, then left along Vicolo Saraceni following the signs for Tempio di Diana. Allow two hours for the round trip if you are going right to the top, and beware that in summer it can be a sweltering slog. The Salita Saraceno climbs up three tiers of city walls to the restored fortifications of the crumbling stone castle, revealing traces of a pool, fountain, cistern and prison. The most conspicuous structure, which you come to after a 20-minute climb, is the so-called Tempio di Diana, circa 4th century BC.
If La Rocca sounds too strenuous, head for the beach 6 [map], one of the best in Sicily and hugely popular in summer. Parasols and deckchairs can be rented from May to September.
Parco Regionale delle Madonie
Cefalù is the gateway to the delightful Madonie mountains (www.parcodellemadonie.it). Buses run from Cefalù but to explore the winding roads and medieval villages you need a car. The mountains are popular with hikers, but be aware that some of the paths are very demanding and good maps are hard to come by. Information can be found at the park offices in Cefalù (Corso Ruggero 116) and Castelbueno.
Food and Drink
1 La Brace
Via XXV Novembre 1856, 10; tel: 0921 423 570; D only Tue–Sun; www.ristorantelabrace.com; €–€€
This welcoming restaurant is excellent value and hugely popular. The menu offers specialities such as stuffed aubergines and Sicilian stuffed meatballs, and a good choice of desserts. Book ahead.
2 Le Chat Noir
Via XXV Novembre 1856, 17; tel: 0921 420 697; L and D Thur–Tue; www.ristorantelechatnoir.com; €€
Despite the name, this family-run restaurant is dedicated to classic Sicilian dishes such as caponata or involtini ri pisci spade (swordfish filled with aubergine and cheese and topped with breadcrumbs).