Hiyayako—Chilled Tofu, Traditional Style
Marinated Jellyfish with Cucumber Salad
Tofu Steak with Japanese Mushrooms
LIKE a burger and fries in America, we, too, have our own classic combinations in Japan. Take ramen. Experiencing an authentic ramen meal in Japan is not just about those delicious noodles—you’ve got to have the right appetizers, too. My taste buds are programmed to just crave juicy gyoza dumplings or crispy fried harumaki rolls whenever I sit down to enjoy a tasty bowl of noodles. All ramen shops in Japan serve appetizers, and they are particularly proud of their own versions of gyoza, which vary from bite-size dumplings to giant, fist-size ones. There’s even a “food theme park” in the city of Osaka that pays homage to this beloved dumpling. Called, appropriately, Gyoza Stadium, it features top gyoza makers from around the country.
But in Japan, appetizers aren’t always just noodle shop side dishes. In fact, we have a certain kind of restaurant where appetizers are the meal. I’m talking about a singular Japanese establishment called the izakaya, which translates to “eating pub.”
Japanese typically don’t drink a beer or sake alone. We need to nibble on something, too. That’s where izakaya enter the picture. Not bars and not restaurants, they’re a combination of both, casual and relaxed places that can be found in almost every neighborhood in the country. It’s a place where locals can drop in for a drink, a snack, or a full meal. Food is served as a tapas-style procession of small plates, a bunch of delicious appetizers, really. Izakaya typically offer dozens of dishes that are unique to these establishments. I love this kind of eating and am excited that it’s been gaining in popularity here in America.
My first encounter with izakaya came at the age of eight in my hometown of Mito. My father, a busy accountant, loved to unwind with his friends over a beer and side dishes at his local spot. I started tagging along with him, a chance to hang out with the grown-ups. “Order whatever you want,” my dad would say. And I did. I tasted so many different dishes during those outings, an experience I credit with triggering my curiosity about food, and ultimately led to my becoming a chef.
In this chapter, you’ll find classic noodle shop appetizers as well as popular izakaya dishes, such as Grilled Squid, Fried Oysters, and Tofu Steak with Japanese Mushrooms. They’re all easy to prepare at home, and I hope you’ll enjoy them with family and friends, just as I do.
One final note: most of the appetizers are served with a raw or pickled vegetable salad, which is why most of the recipes call for “thinly sliced” (julienned) vegetables. Cutting them very thin makes the raw vegetables more appealing and easier to digest.
In Japan, these crispy pan-fried rolls run a close second to gyoza as a favorite side dish to a steaming bowl of ramen. Harumaki is often prepared with shrimp or pork, but I like using beef, which beautifully complements the layers of flavors in this recipe. Besides, the irresistible combination of beef and peppers reminds me of my adopted hometown of Chicago’s famous Italian beef sandwiches. Harumaki also freezes well. The trick is to assemble the rolls completely before sticking them in the freezer. You can even fry the harumaki while the filling is still frozen. I always keep some frozen rolls on hand for an impromptu midnight snack.
Makes 20 pieces, serves 5
MARINATED BEEF
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon Japanese soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
⅛ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
8 ounces beef tenderloin, skirt, or strip steak, thinly sliced and cut into 2-inch-long pieces
1 tablespoon Japanese soy sauce
2 tablespoons sake
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
¼ cup Beef Broth
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon mustard powder
1 tablespoon cold water
FILLING
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 cup thinly sliced stemmed shiitake mushrooms (about 6)
⅓ cup thinly sliced canned bamboo shoots
2 stalks celery, peeled, thinly sliced, and cut into 2-inch-long pieces
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
10 stalks Broccolini, ends trimmed and halved
10 spring roll sheets, thawed (found in the frozen section of the supermarket)
1 tablespoon flour mixed with 1 tablespoon water (“flour paste”)
¼ cup vegetable oil
Japanese soy sauce
Salt and pepper
To make the beef, in a large bowl, combine the sake, soy sauce, sesame oil, black pepper, and salt. Add the beef and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for 10 minutes.
To make the stir-fry sauce, combine the soy sauce, sake, hoisin, sesame oil, and stock in a bowl. In another bowl, mix together the cornstarch and water. Set aside.
To make the mustard sauce, in a small bowl, mix together the mustard powder and water. Set aside.
To make the filling, heat a large sauté pan over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil. Once the oil is hot but not smoking, carefully add the marinated beef and stir, using a wooden spoon or heat-proof spatula. Continue stirring for 1 minute, then transfer to a bowl.
Using the same pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over high heat, then add the mushrooms and bamboo shoots. Cook for 30 seconds, stirring constantly, then add the celery and both bell peppers. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the peppers begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the beef back to the pan and mix in the stir-fry sauce; cook for 30 seconds, then stir in the cornstarch mixture and cook for 1 minute, or until the sauce thickens.
Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the filling to a bowl. Refrigerate until it has completely cooled, about 1 hour.
Prepare an ice bath and place a medium pot of salted water over high heat. When the water comes to a boil, add the Broccolini, and cook for 1 minute, then transfer to the ice bath for 10 seconds. Quickly place on paper towels to dry. Set aside at room temperature.
Separate the spring roll sheets and stack them. On an angle, cut off one corner of the sheets, about 1½ inches long (one-sixth of the sheet), and discard the corner. Set 1 sheet in front of you with the cut side closest to you (the pointed end should be farthest away). Cover the remaining sheets with a slightly damp towel to keep them from drying out.
Measure ⅓ cup of the filling and place it on the spring roll sheet, about 1 inch above the bottom. Carefully spread out the mixture so the ingredients lie in the same direction, one next to the other. Be careful to keep the filling at least 1 inch from the sides. Gently begin rolling, lightly squeezing to keep the roll tight. After two turns, press down on the sides to secure the filling and tuck the unfilled edges in. Continue rolling. Secure the top with a small dab of flour paste. Repeat with the remaining 9 spring roll sheets and the filling.
Heat a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. Heat for 1 minute, making sure it doesn’t get too hot. Add the spring rolls one at a time and cook until the bottoms turn golden brown, about 2 minutes. Then, using tongs, carefully turn the spring rolls over and brown the remaining sides. When done cooking, transfer the spring rolls to a paper towel–lined plate and allow to cool slightly, then cut in half on a diagonal.
To serve, arrange 4 pieces of Broccolini at the end of each of 5 long plates, along with 1 teaspoon of the mustard sauce, followed by 4 spring roll pieces. Serve with the soy sauce and a mixture of salt and pepper on the side. Or, serve sliced in half at a 45 degree angle, paired with gyoza on a serving platter.
Grilled squid, the Japanese version of fried calamari, is extremely popular in Japan’s neighborhood izakaya, or eating pubs. Whenever I order this dish I always think of my mother, who once warned me against eating squid from street vendors. My mom, always looking out for me! Using nice, fresh squid, this dish is simple to prepare and perfect with a cold glass of sake. Try to buy the largest calamari-style squid you can find.
Serves 4
1¼ pounds fresh squid
SAUCE
¼ cup Japanese soy sauce
3 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons sake
1 teaspoon grated ginger
24 snow peas, trimmed
Salt
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
Pinch of white sesame seeds
Pinch of ichimi togarashi (Japanese red pepper flakes)
Rinse the squid under cold water. Clean by holding the body in one hand and using the other hand to pull off the head. Remove and discard all materials inside the body until you are left with a hollow tube. Cut just above the eyes on the head to remove and keep the tentacles. Rinse the tubes and tentacles well in cold water. Discard the remaining parts.
To make the sauce, combine the soy sauce, mirin, and sake in a small pan over medium heat and cook until the liquid just comes to a boil. Keep warm until ready to use. Stir in the ginger just before serving.
Prepare an ice bath and place a pot of salted water over high heat. When the water comes to a boil, drop the snow peas in and cook until they turn bright green, about 30 seconds. Remove and submerge in the ice bath. Drain, sprinkle with the salt, and set aside.
To cook the squid, set a grill or grill pan over high heat and brush on a thin layer of the vegetable oil. Season the squid with salt and place on the hot grill. Cook for 2½ to 3 minutes per side, or until cooked through. Note that when you begin cooking the squid, it releases a lot of juices. As soon as the skin turns red and there’s no more liquid, it’s ready. Be careful not to overcook, as the squid can quickly become tough.
Roll the grilled squid in the sauce to lightly coat. Transfer to a cutting board and cut into ¾-inch pieces. Divide the squid among 4 plates and top each with ½ teaspoon sauce, 6 snow peas, and the sesame seeds and ichimi togarashi.
The elegant preparation I introduce here, braised pork belly served in a “sandwich” with a tangy hoisin sauce, is a mouthwatering appetizer. But this dish is also fundamental to ramen noodle cooking. Sliced, it’s a classic topping for ramen noodles. And the braising liquid has many uses. You flavor ramen broth with it; simmer bamboo shoots in it, a classic garnish; and even cook hard-boiled eggs in this liquid, which are then sliced in half and added to a bowl of noodles. (See the ramen section for an example.) This recipe takes a little bit of time but is very simple to execute—do not be afraid. In fact, when you’re cooking the pork or simmering it in the braising liquid, just set a kitchen timer and forget about it. You don’t have to watch it closely.
Serves 4
PORK BELLY
½ tablespoon vegetable oil
9 ounces pork belly
4 cups cold water
½ cup sake
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and smashed
BRAISING LIQUID
1½ cups cold water
1 cup Japanese soy sauce
¾ cups sugar
1 piece star anise
½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 cinnamon stick
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and smashed
GARNISHES
¼ head iceberg lettuce
¼ cucumber, thinly sliced on a diagonal
SAUCE
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
1 teaspoon cold water
1 teaspoon cornstarch
2 teaspoons mustard powder
2 teaspoons water
4 steamed buns (also called “Milk Steamed Bread,” available at Asian and Chinese stores), defrosted and halved
To prepare the pork belly, place an 11-inch sauté pan over high heat. Add the vegetable oil and heat until the oil just begins to smoke. Using tongs, carefully place the fatty side of the pork belly in the pan and cook until it turns golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn the pork belly over and repeat on the other sides until nicely browned all over. Decrease the heat if the oil begins to smoke again.
In a 4-quart saucepan, combine the seared pork belly, the cold water, sake, and smashed ginger, and place over high heat. Bring the liquid to a boil, then decrease the heat; simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes.
To make the braising liquid, combine all the ingredients in a 4-quart saucepan.
Drain the pork belly and discard the liquid, then add the pork belly to the braising liquid in the saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cover. Braise for 1½ hours, or until the pork belly is very tender.
Transfer the pork belly and braising liquid to a container and refrigerate, uncovered, until cool, then cover and chill overnight.
The next day, assemble a steamer on the stove top. You can use a perforated pan, steam basket, or bamboo steamer. Fill the bottom with water, cover, and set over high heat. Decrease the heat to medium once the water comes to a boil.
To prepare the garnishes, discard the outer leaves of the iceberg lettuce. Place 3 large leaves in a bowl of cold water along with the cucumber slices. Set aside. (I like to soak cut vegetables in cold water for 10 minutes because it helps them retain their freshness and crispness.)
To make the sauce, combine ½ cup of the chilled braising liquid and the hoisin sauce in a small saucepan and set over high heat. In a bowl, mix the water and cornstarch until smooth. When the sauce just begins to boil, whisk in the cornstarch and cook briefly, just until the sauce begins to thicken. Make sure that it doesn’t thicken too much—the sauce should run in a steady stream when poured. Set aside.
To make the mustard sauce, mix the mustard powder and water in a small bowl. Set aside.
Remove the pork belly from the remaining braising liquid and cut into 8 slices, each ¼ inch thick. (You’ll have left-over pork belly after you cut these slices. See below for other uses.) Place the slices in a single layer side by side with the halved buns on a plate small enough to fit in the steamer (don’t put the buns directly on the steamer because they will stick to it). If you have a large steamer you can do this in one batch, if your steamer is smaller, just steam the pork belly and buns in several batches. Set the plate in the steamer, cover, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until soft and heated through.
While the pork belly and buns are steaming, finish preparing the garnishes by draining the lettuce and cucumber and patting dry with a towel. Cut the lettuce into pieces the size of the steamed buns and stack in 4 small piles. Top each pile with 2 slices of cucumber.
To serve, assemble a braised pork “sandwich” by placing the lettuce, cucumber, and 2 slices of pork belly on half of a bun. Drizzle the sauce over the meat and top with the other half of the bun. Serve the mustard on the side. Repeat for the remaining 3 buns.
Any leftover pork belly and remaining braising liquid can be frozen for up to 2 months. The braising liquid can be used in the Shoyu Ramen broth and the pork belly can be used as a garnish for various ramens or for fried rice.
These irresistible ribs are an import from China that have been adopted—and adapted—by Japanese cooks. I like to prepare them with classic Chinese five-spice seasoning, because I love the rich fragrance and flavors of this mixture of cinnamon, anise seed, star anise, cloves, and ginger. But many cooks in Japan prefer to make the spareribs with simply sansho pepper or freshly ground black pepper and salt (use 1 teaspoon of either pepper with ½ teaspoon of kosher salt). Try these different spice combinations to see which ones you like best!
Makes 12 spareribs, serves 4
1 quart vegetable oil
SPARERIBS MARINADE
2 cloves garlic, grated
3 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds pork spareribs (12 pieces), separated
¼ red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced
½ carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
¼ cup water
1 tablespoon sesame oil
Dash of hot chili oil
1½ tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup potato starch
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder (found in the spice section of the grocery store)
½ cup chopped fresh or canned and drained pineapple
Cilantro leaves
Heat a deep fryer or heavy-bottomed pot with 4 inches of vegetable oil to 300°F.
To make the marinade, combine the garlic, mirin, soy sauce, and pepper in a large bowl. Add the spareribs and turn to coat the ribs well. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
To make the salad, combine the cabbage and carrots in a bowl. Combine the vinegar, water, sesame oil, chili oil, sugar, and salt in a small pot. Bring to a boil, then pour the liquid over the cabbage and carrots. Mix well and set aside until it cools to room temperature, about 30 minutes.
Remove the ribs from the marinade and wipe off excess marinade. Line a tray with paper towels. Place the potato starch on a plate and dredge the spareribs in the starch to lightly coat. Add half of the ribs to the hot oil. Fry until the ribs are cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove and set on the paper towel–lined tray to absorb the excess oil, then add the remaining spareribs to the fryer and repeat.
Heat an 11-inch nonstick pan over high heat and add ¼ teaspoon each of the black pepper, salt, and Chinese five-spice powder. Add half of the fried spareribs and cook quickly, 30 seconds to 1 minute, until cooked through, adding more seasoning, if necessary. Repeat with the remaining spareribs and ¼ teaspoon each of spices.
To serve, arrange ¼ cup of the cabbage salad in the center of 4 plates and top with one-fourth of the pineapple pieces and cilantro. Place 3 spareribs around each cabbage salad and serve.
America’s Deep South isn’t the only place that loves fried chicken: tatsuta-age is Japan’s own delicious version, which my family and I are addicted to! Our fried chicken is marinated with traditional Japanese aromatic flavorings and served with a refreshing and savory slaw. You can enjoy this versatile dish hot and crispy, or pack it for a picnic and eat it at room temperature—it travels extremely well. Tatsuta-age is also a perfect leftover food. It keeps in the fridge for several days without losing its flavor, and you can turn the boneless chunks into a delicious sandwich. When I was a kid, my mother often included this fried chicken in my lunchbox, a treat I happily share with my own school-age children today. Don’t use the breast for this dish—the legs and thighs have much more flavor. Be sure to keep the skin on, too.
Makes 20 pieces, serves 4
4 leaves napa cabbage, stemmed
1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced on a diagonal (⅓ cup)
2 scallions, stemmed and thinly sliced on a sharp diagonal (⅓ cup)
¼ red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons tobanjan (Chinese chili paste)
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
½ teaspoon Japanese soy sauce
½ teaspoon nam pla (fish sauce)
¼ teaspoon hot chili oil
4 chicken legs and thighs, with bone and skin (about 2½ pounds)
MARINADE
2 cloves garlic, peeled and grated (you can use a microplane or regular grater)
1 teaspoon grated ginger
¼ cup Japanese soy sauce
¼ cup mirin
2 teaspoons sesame oil
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
6 cups vegetable oil, or enough to fill a pan 3 inches deep (you can also use a deep fryer)
1 cup potato starch
Pinch of kosher salt
2 cups leafy greens
1 lime, cut into 8 pieces
To make the cabbage slaw, trim the bottom of the cabbage leaves. Cut the leaves in half and slice the bottom half into ¼-inch-wide slices. Then cut the top leafy halves into 2-inch-wide pieces. Combine all the cabbage in a bowl and submerge in cold water to wash. Drain well and place in a bowl. Add the carrots, scallions, onion, and salt and mix well (the salt will remove excess moisture from the vegetables). Let sit at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the chicken. Using a sharp knife, separate the thighs from the drumstick by cutting between the joint. Cut the thigh in half lengthwise along the bone. Using a cleaver, chop the piece with the bone in half, resulting in 3 similar-size pieces. Also use the cleaver to cut the drumstick in half. Repeat with the remaining chicken. You should have 20 pieces of chicken when done. Place the chicken in a shallow pan and set aside.
To prepare the marinade, combine all the marinade ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Pour the marinade over the chicken and coat well using your hands. There should be just enough marinade to coat the chicken. Cover and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes, or up to 2 hours.
To finish the slaw, rinse it in cold water three times and strain. Squeeze the slaw between your hands in small batches to remove all the excess water and place in a dry bowl; the cabbage should be wilted. Add the tobanjan, vinegar, soy sauce, nam pla, and chili oil. Mix well and refrigerate until ready to use.
To finish the chicken, line a shallow tray with paper towels and set aside. Heat the vegetable oil (or as much as you need for a 3-inch depth) in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until the oil reaches 325°F, or fill a deep fryer and set the temperature to 325°F. Place the potato starch in a large bowl and gently toss each piece of chicken until lightly coated. Carefully place half the chicken in the hot oil, being careful not to splatter. Cook until the chicken is nicely browned and begins to rise to the surface, 9 to 11 minutes. Once the chicken is cooked through, remove it from the oil using tongs and place on the paper towel–lined tray. Toss with the kosher salt while still hot. Repeat with the second batch of chicken.
While the chicken is cooking, prepare 4 appetizer plates by placing ½ cup of the leafy greens in one corner. Add ⅓ cup slaw to the center of the plate and set 2 lime wedges next to it. Top with 5 pieces of hot chicken and serve immediately.
The frying oil can be reused. When finished frying the chicken, allow it to sit at room temperature until it has cooled completely, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a sealable container and store in the refrigerator for several months.
Yakitori is one of Japan’s most beloved comfort foods; restaurants specializing in these grilled chicken skewers can be found everywhere. Chefs typically work in the open behind a long dining counter, slowly searing chicken over all-natural Japanese oak charcoal. The key word here is “slowly”—the secret to delicious yakitori is to carefully caramelize both the meat and the sauce coating it. To achieve this, yakitori chefs grill over moderate heat and alternate turning the skewers and dipping them into tukedare, the traditional sweet-savory grilling sauce. The result is a wonderful rich flavor and aroma, and a beautiful deep amber color.
But you don’t have to be a professional chef to grill amazing yakitori. This dish is also popular among Japanese home cooks, and my recipe below shows how you, too, can achieve yakitori bliss. These skewers are perfect for a party, picnic, campout, or football tailgate. You can prepare them over a stove-top grill or, even better, on an outdoor barbecue (use natural charcoal for the best flavor). Also, the skewers can be assembled and the tukedare sauce prepared a day ahead of time. Finally, you can make a vegetarian version of this dish by substituting the chicken with firm tofu cut into ¾-inch cubes. Skewer the tofu, alternating with whole shishito peppers, and follow the instructions below, coating the tofu liberally with the tukedare.
Makes 20 pieces, serves 4
TUKEDARE
2 cups Japanese soy sauce
⅓ cup sake
⅓ cup water
4 teaspoons ginger juice (see method in the recipe for Gyoza)
2 tablespoons sesame oil
¼ cup lemon juice
1 (6-inch) piece kombu, wiped with a damp cloth
2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon ichimi togarashi (Japanese red pepper flakes)
YAKITORI
1 (3- to 3½-pound) chicken (or use precut and boned legs, thighs, and breasts)
20 (6-inch) bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes
½ onion, cubed
4 shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and cubed
1 scallion, both white and green parts, cut into ½-inch pieces
½ green or red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch squares
½ teaspoon salt
To prepare the tukedare, combine the soy sauce, sake, water, ginger juice, sesame oil, lemon juice, kombu, and sugar in a saucepot over high heat. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat and simmer until the kombu becomes soft, about 20 minutes. Strain the sauce into a narrow container and mix in the ichimi togarashi. Set aside.
To prepare the yakitori, remove the wings from the chicken. Butterfly the middle piece (which has 2 bones), keeping the bone and skin. Thread 2 skewers through both pieces to hold them together, with the skin side down. Set aside.
Next, remove the skin from the remaining chicken and set aside. Remove the bones from the chicken breast, legs, and thighs and cut the meat into 1-inch cubes. Now you’re ready to skewer. The trick here is to alternate different combinations of meat and vegetables—have fun with it! To start, thread 3 pieces of dark meat onto a skewer, alternating with some onion and shiitake mushrooms. Be sure to leave at least 1 inch of the skewer uncovered. Now repeat with the chicken breast cubes, this time alternately skewering with scallions and shiitake mushrooms. Next, try a combination with bell peppers. Repeat until all the skewers are prepared. Finally, don’t forget to skewer the chicken skin and chicken liver, both traditional delicacies in Japan. But with these two, do not add any vegetables (so the skin and liver can cook uniformly).
Heat a barbecue grill or stove-top grill pan over medium heat. Set several skewers of chicken and vegetables and the skin on the grill so the uncovered parts of the skewers hang over the edge. Flip the yakitori after 2 minutes, then cook 1 minute longer on the other side to sear evenly. Remove and dip the yakitori into tukedare to lightly coat (you can also use a pastry brush for this step). Now you’re ready to slowly caramelize the sauce and cook the chicken, using the following technique: Return the skewers to the grill and cook for 1 minute. Remove and again dip into the tukedare. Return to the grill, turning the skewer to cook the other side for another minute. Repeat these steps until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce is caramelized, 8 to 10 minutes. Remember to grill over lower heat than we typically use to barbecue in America, and grill patiently and slowly. You’ll turn and dip the skewers at least four times.
Lightly salt the reserved chicken wings and liver pieces and follow the slow turning technique described above—but do not dip them into the tukedare. In Japan, yakitori wings are traditionally grilled only with a salt coating, not with sauce.
Line up the grilled yakitori on a platter and serve.
Fried oysters are a staple of izakaya, the eating pubs that can be found in every Japanese neighborhood. These kinds of establishments are much more popular than bars, because we typically like to nibble on something while we enjoy a drink. In fact, this dish is one of my favorite complements to a frosty mug of draught beer. You’ll see that I don’t season the cabbage slaw in this recipe. In Japan, we typically create our own impromptu dressing with the two sauces for the oysters.
Serves 4
CABBAGE SLAW
2 cups packed shredded cabbage (stemmed and sliced as thin as possible in long lengths)
¼ cup thinly sliced red onion
½ carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
12 thin slices cucumber, cut on an angle
⅓ cup mayonnaise
½ tablespoon minced capers
2 tablespoons minced cornichons or sweet pickles
½ tablespoon minced chives
½ hard-boiled egg, minced
½ teaspoon lemon juice
Pinch of salt
OYSTERS
1 quart vegetable oil
1 pound shucked large oysters, rinsed well and drained
Salt and white pepper
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 egg, beaten
2 cups panko (Japanese-style breadcrumbs)
GARNISHES
½ lemon, cut into 4 wedges
1 plum tomato, quartered
½ cup tonkatsu sauce (Japanese dipping sauce)
To make the slaw, place the cabbage, red onion, carrots, and cucumber in a bowl under running water for 10 minutes. Drain well. Remove the cucumber slices and reserve. Mix the vegetables and refrigerate the slaw until ready to use.
To make the tartar sauce, combine the mayonnaise, capers, cornichons, chives, and egg in a bowl and mix well. Season to taste with lemon juice and salt.
To make the oysters, heat a deep fryer or pan filled with oil 4 inches deep to 325°F. Line a tray with paper towels.
Season the oysters with salt and white pepper. Set up a breading station in the following order: oysters, bowl of flour, beaten egg, bowl of panko, plate. With one hand, lightly coat an oyster in flour and drop it into the egg. Then, with the other hand, make sure the oyster is coated in egg and wipe off any excess. Transfer the oyster to the panko, making sure it is coated well, and move to the plate with the “flour” hand. Repeat with the remaining oysters.
Carefully place 4 or 5 oysters in the hot oil and cook, flipping halfway through, until the crust turns golden brown, about 6 minutes. Set the oysters on the paper towel–lined tray and lightly sprinkle with salt. Repeat with the remaining oysters.
To serve, place ½ cup of slaw in the corner of a plate and place 3 reserved cucumber slices, 1 lemon wedge, and 1 tomato quarter along one side. Set 4 or 5 fried oysters along the other side, and add 2 tablespoons of the tartar sauce in the corner. Serve with 2 tablespoons of the tonkatsu sauce on the side.
Tonkatsu sauce, a popular dipping sauce for fried foods, is to Japanese what ketchup is to Americans. It is produced from vinegar, apples, tomatoes, and dates, and every home has a bottle in the fridge.
This dish is an easy summer favorite prepared with ingredients that every home in Japan has handy in the fridge and cupboard. You can pull it together in less than 10 minutes. Whenever I serve hiyayako to my American-born friends, the reaction is always the same: “Amazing!” The creamy tofu and aromatic, flavorful garnishes also pair beautifully with fruity sake or a chilled glass of white wine. Make sure you use soft “silken” tofu—the firmer varieties are only for cooking.
Serves 4
1 (14-ounce) package soft (silken) tofu, rinsed under cold water and patted dry
1 teaspoon grated ginger
1 scallion, both white and green parts, thinly sliced on an angle
2 obha leaves, halved and thinly sliced
¼ cup finely shaved katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)
Mitsuba leaves (optional)
Daikon sprouts (optional)
Japanese soy sauce
Cut the tofu into quarters, then slice each quarter into 12 equal cubes, but hold them together to retain the original shape. Place each block of cubed tofu in a serving bowl and top with one-fourth of the ginger, scallion, obha leaves, and katsuobushi. Garnish with the mitsuba leaves and daikon sprouts, if desired. Serve with a small cup of soy sauce.
The funny thing about gyoza is that I never cooked them—until I moved to America. Back home I always went out for these extremely popular, garlic-infused pan-fried dumplings, which have a special place in the hearts of Japanese. When I arrived in America, gyoza was one of the comfort foods I missed the most, so I started cooking them at home. That’s when I realized how easy it is to prepare perfect gyoza: they simply need a fragrant, juicy, flavor-packed filling; crispy skin on the bottom and silky skin on top; and a spicy dipping sauce. Now my kids and I love to make homemade gyoza together. This recipe is the classic pork-filled version that I grew up with. Keep in mind that you can conveniently freeze uncooked gyoza for up to a month. To prepare, follow the fry-steam technique below with the frozen dumplings—no need to defrost. Just extend the cooking time by 3 minutes. Note: You can also prepare this dish without pork belly. Just substitute more ground pork (1 pound total). But I love using pork belly here because it adds so much flavor and richness to the gyoza.
Makes 40 to 44 pieces, serves 8
6 ounces pork belly
10 ounces ground pork (I prefer ground pork loin)
2 teaspoons dry mustard powder
2 teaspoons water
2 teaspoons Japanese soy sauce
2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons salt
8 ounces bean sprouts
½ cup Japanese soy sauce
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon hot chili oil
2 teaspoons sugar
FILLING
7 leaves cabbage
1¼ teaspoons kosher salt
1 (3-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled
¼ cup chicken stock
2 tablespoons sake
3 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce
2 tablespoons sesame oil
½ cup minced garlic chives (discard bottom inch)
¼ cup minced scallions, both white and green parts
½ teaspoon grated garlic (2 cloves)
½ tablespoon sugar
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
1 (10-ounce) package gyoza skins (about 50 skins; I prefer Japanese gyoza skins, but you can use Chinese varieties if necessary)
1 to 1¼ cups water
⅓ to ½ cup vegetable oil
Grind the pork belly using a meat grinder if you have one, or chop well with a chef’s knife (do not use a food processor, which will turn the meat into a paste). Combine in a large bowl with the ground pork and refrigerate.
To make the sprouts, combine the mustard powder, water, soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar in a bowl, mix well, and set aside.
In a pot over high heat, bring 4 cups water and the salt to a boil. Add the bean sprouts. Remove from the heat when the water returns to a boil and the sprouts have floated to the surface. Drain through a fine-mesh strainer and combine with the mustard sauce. Set aside.
To make the dipping sauce, whisk together all the ingredients until the sugar dissolves. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
To make the filling, remove the stems from the cabbage leaves a by cutting a long V shape along the sides of the stems and discard. Arrange the leaves in a pile and cut into thirds lengthwise, then turn horizontally and cut into ⅛-inch-thick pieces. Mix well with ½ teaspoon of the kosher salt in a mixing bowl and let sit at room temperature for 20 minutes (the salt will draw out the excess moisture in the cabbage).
Meanwhile, lay a piece of plastic wrap on the counter and grate the peeled ginger over it. Pull up the sides of the plastic around the pile of ginger to create a small packet. Poke a small hole in the bottom of the packet with the tip of a knife and gently squeeze over a clean bowl to gather the ginger juices; continue squeezing until you have extracted 1 tablespoon of liquid. Mix with the chicken stock, sake, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Set aside.
Use a clean towel to wrap one-third of the cabbage and squeeze over the sink to drain, then place the cabbage on a cutting board. Repeat with the remaining cabbage. Roughly chop the drained cabbage and combine with the garlic chives, scallions, and grated garlic in a bowl.
Remove the pork from the refrigerator and mix well by hand until sticky, being careful to work quickly so the pork doesn’t become warm. Slowly mix in the seasoned chicken stock. Once it is well combined, mix in the cabbage, sugar, the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt, and the pepper.
To assemble, lay a gyoza skin on the counter. Place 1 scant tablespoon of the filling in the center. Using your index finger, run a thin layer of water along half of the inner rim and press both sides together to create a tight seal, forming the shape of a half circle. Make four tucks along the edge of the dumpling and set upright on a plate or baking sheet to create a flat bottom. Repeat with the remaining gyoza skins and filling.
To cook, place a medium nonstick sauté pan over high heat and add 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil. Add 8 to 10 gyoza to the pan, flat side down. When the bottoms have caramelized, in 1 to 1½ minutes, add ¼ cup of the water and cover with a lid. Decrease the heat to medium and cook, covered, until the water has evaporated, 3 to 4 minutes. Uncover the pan and drizzle 1 teaspoon of the oil on the gyoza and continue to cook until the bottoms become crisp, about 2 minutes. Transfer the gyoza to a serving platter with the browned side on display. Repeat with the remaining gyoza, water, and oil.
To serve, arrange 5 gyoza on an appetizer plate with the browned side facing up. Place ⅓ cup of the mustard bean sprouts next to the gyoza and serve with 2 tablespoons of the dipping sauce in a cup.
When I was a kid, my parents really wanted me to try this dish. Jellyfish? No way. Until the fourth grade, that is, when I finally got the courage to taste it. I clearly remember that moment because I was so surprised by how delicious it was. In Japan, jellyfish is sold like Portuguese bacalhau (dried salted cod), naturally preserved in salt. In America, it can be found in Asian groceries, stored at room temperature in large tubs of water or in 1-pound packages. Be sure to rinse the jellyfish very well to remove excess salt. This dish is prepared with a very traditional Japanese sweet vinegar marinade, which gives it a nice tangy flavor. I added my own twist and included jicama because I love this root’s crunchy texture and delicate sweetness. You can also substitute green papaya for the jicama.
Serves 4
1 cup rice wine vinegar
¼ cup Dashi
1 tablespoon usukuchi (light-colored Japanese soy sauce)
¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch of ichimi togarashi (Japanese red pepper flakes)
12 ounces cured jellyfish, cut into 3- to 4-inch-long by ¼-inch-wide pieces
CUCUMBER SALAD
¾ cucumber, peeled and sliced into very thin 2-inch-long matchsticks
⅛ jicama, peeled and sliced into very thin 2-inch-long matchsticks
½ carrot, peeled and sliced into very thin 1-inch-long matchsticks
GARNISHES
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sesame oil
½ teaspoon hot chili oil
½ teaspoon white sesame seeds
2 scallions, bottom half thinly sliced on a sharp angle
2 sprigs cilantro
To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan and set over high heat. Bring the mixture to a boil and immediately turn off the heat. Allow the marinade to cool to room temperature.
Prepare an ice bath and set aside. Place the jellyfish in another bowl under cold running water for 20 minutes to remove the excess salt. Bring a pot of water to a boil and quickly blanch the jellyfish, just 1 or 2 seconds. Remove and immediately submerge the jellyfish in the ice bath. Drain well and combine the jellyfish with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.
To make the salad, divide the cucumbers among 4 shallow bowls, arranging them in a line in the center. In each bowl, place one-fourth of the carrots and jicama on opposite sides of the cucumber.
Drain the jellyfish from the marinade; reserve the marinade. Top the vegetables with one-fourth of the jellyfish, followed by 2 tablespoons of the reserved marinade, 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil, ⅛ teaspoon of the chili oil, ⅛ teaspoon of the sesame seeds, and one-fourth of the scallions. Finish the bowls with 3 or 4 cilantro leaves.
Shumai is a Chinese import that’s a popular dish in casual restaurants, and is also a staple of Japanese homes, where it’s enjoyed as a snack or a dinnertime side dish (but never as the main course). Leftovers hold up well and can be polished off the next day, or packed into a lunchbox or picnic basket and eaten at room temperature. You can also freeze uncooked shumai for up to a month. Follow the instructions below to steam frozen shumai—no need to defrost; simply add a couple of minutes to the cooking time.
Makes 24 pieces, serves 4
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce
1 teaspoon mustard powder
1 teaspoon cold water
FILLING
8 ounces shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails off (you can use frozen 16/20 shrimp)
1 scallion, both white and green parts, minced
¼ cup minced canned and drained water chestnuts
¼ cup minced stemmed shiitake mushrooms
1½ tablespoons lard (or substitute vegetable oil)
2 tablespoons sake
1 teaspoon ginger juice (see method in the recipe for Gyoza)
½ teaspoon sesame oil
1 egg white
1 teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon potato starch
4 baby bok choy
24 square wonton wrappers⁄skins
¼ cup vegetable oil
Pinch of salt
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
To make the soy-mustard sauce, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and mix well. Set aside.
To make the filling, cut the shrimp into bite-size pieces, then roughly chop until the shrimp become almost pastelike but with some small pieces visible. You can also use a food processor, which will give it a smooth texture, but I prefer the more coarse texture you get from chopping by hand. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl and mix with a spatula until the shrimp become very sticky.
Add the scallions, water chestnuts, and mushrooms to the shrimp and mix well. Then add the following ingredients, mixing well between each addition: lard, sake, ginger juice, sesame oil, and egg white. Finally, mix in the salt, pepper, and potato starch.
Meanwhile, place the baby bok choy in a bowl and cover with cold water; let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes.
To assemble the shumai, lay a wonton skin on the counter (cover the remaining skins with a damp towel to keep them from drying out). Place 1 tablespoon of the filling in the center of the wonton skin. (Soak the spoon in water while you’re assembling a shumai. This will make it easier to transfer the filling to the wonton.) Hold the wonton skin with the filling with your fingers and gently press the skin to form a small cup. Set the shumai on a cutting board and turn it clockwise while carefully pressing the sides together, creating a tighter cup. Wet a finger with water and use it to gently smooth the top of the shumai. Repeat with the remaining wonton skins and filling.
To cook the shumai, heat a stove-top steamer over high heat, bringing the water to a boil. Brush the bottom of the steamer basket with a small layer of the vegetable oil and add the shumai, leaving 1 inch of space between each. Cover and cook for 3 minutes, then drain the bok choy and add to the steamer. Cover and cook for 3 minutes longer, or until the shumai are cooked through.
Remove the bok choy from the steamer and gently squeeze inside a towel to remove excess moisture. Top with a pinch of salt. Place each bok choy in the center of 4 small plates and arrange 6 shumai around it. Garnish the plates with a pinch of black sesame seeds and serve with the soy-mustard sauce on the side.
Although technically an appetizer, these stuffed wings are also a convenient main course at lunch—down two of them and I guarantee you’ll be happily full for at least 4 hours. The technique here takes a little practice; don’t forget to use a very sharp knife. I promise you, your efforts will be worthwhile: this dish never fails to impress. If you have any leftover rice, you can eat it on its own as a side dish, stuff it into grape leaves for a Mediterranean twist, or steam inside a corn husk for a delicious Japanese-style “tamale.”
Serves 8
1½ cups sweet rice (also called “sticky rice” or “mochi rice”)
1 cup Dashi
2 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin
3 shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced
¼ cup thinly sliced carrot
¼ cup thinly sliced bamboo shoots
2 tablespoons peeled and thinly sliced gobo (burdock root; can substitute with salsify)
¼ cup diced abura-age (fried tofu cake)
8 chicken wings
34 pea pods, trimmed
8 slices bacon
BRAISING LIQUID
¼ cup Dashi
3 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce
1 tablespoon mirin
Rinse the rice three or four times in cold running water, until the water runs clear. Place in a bowl, cover with water, and soak for 15 minutes. Drain well.
To cook the rice in a rice cooker, combine the rice, dashi, soy sauce, mirin, shiitakes, carrots, bamboo shoots, gobo, and abura-age in a rice cooker. Follow the rice cooker settings for sweet rice and cook until done.
To cook the rice on the stove top, combine the rice, dashi, soy sauce, mirin, shiitakes, carrots, bamboo shoots, gobo, and abura-age in a pot and place over medium heat. Bring to a boil, about 4 minutes, then cover and cook until no liquid remains visible (don’t open the lid too often, just peek), about 3 minutes longer. Decrease the heat to low and cook, covered, for 15 minutes.
While the rice is cooking, remove the bones from the chicken wings by first cutting around the top joint (where it attaches to the body) to loosen the meat. Pull down to release the meat from the bone until you reach the second joint. Use a sharp knife to cut through the joint to loosen the bone, being careful not to puncture the skin. Cut around the second joint to loosen the meat again and pull down to the third joint, cutting between the bones to release them. The wing tip should remain intact. Re-form the meat and skin to resemble the original shape. Repeat with the 7 remaining wings. Refrigerate until ready to stuff.
Prepare an ice bath and place a pot of salted water over high heat. When the water comes to a boil, add the pea pods and cook 1 minute. Remove from the water and submerge in the ice bath. Drain well. Slice 10 pea pods into ¼-inch-thick pieces. Set aside the remaining 24 pea pods for garnish.
Once the rice has finished cooking, place 2 cups of it in a large bowl and let cool to room temperature. Mix in the sliced pea pods. Fill a small bowl with cold water and lightly dip your hands in it before touching the rice (sweet rice is extremely sticky when cooked; the water helps keep the rice from sticking to your hands). Measure ¼ cup rice and stuff inside a hollowed-out chicken wing a little bit at a time, being sure to fill the entire wing. Repeat with the remaining 7 wings.
Once all the wings have been stuffed, wrap each with 1 slice bacon and place them all in a 4-quart saucepan (it should be a snug fit).
To make the braising liquid, combine all the ingredients in a bowl and mix well.
Pour the braising liquid over the chicken wings in the pot. Bring the liquid to a boil over high heat, about 1 minute, then cover. Decrease the heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes. Using tongs, carefully turn over each wing to cook the other side. Put the cover back on and cook for 5 to 6 minutes longer, until the chicken is cooked through.
Let the chicken wings cool to room temperature. Place 1 wing on each of 8 small plates, garnish each with 3 pea pods, and top with 1 tablespoon of the braising liquid.
This is a popular dish in Japan that I love to prepare because it has so much going for it: complex sweet and tangy flavors, a heavenly ginger and garlic aroma, and wonderful textures. I’ve included puffed rice paper “chips” to add a nice crunch and a bit of flair. With its fiery colors, this dish makes a beautiful conversation-stopping presentation.
I divided my recipe into seven small parts, each of which you prepare separately, then combine everything at the end. The trick here is to make sure you finish your prep before you cook—the actual cook time for the shrimp is only 5 minutes, so you’ll have to move fast! To make the recipe easy to follow, I have paired the ingredients for each step with the instructions.
Serves 4
SHRIMP MARINADE
1 tablespoon sake
1 teaspoon sesame oil
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon cornstarch
14 ounces large shrimp, peeled and deveined, with tails on (you can use frozen 16/20 shrimp)
In a large bowl, combine the sake, oil, salt, pepper, and cornstarch. Add the shrimp and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes.
AROMATICS
2 tablespoons finely minced ginger
2 teaspoons finely minced garlic
Combine the ginger and garlic in a small bowl and set aside.
2 tablespoons tobanjan (Chinese chili paste)
5 tablespoons ketchup
1 tablespoon Japanese soy sauce
Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl, mix well, and set aside.
Combine all the ingredients in a bowl, mix well, and set aside.
THICKENER
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon water
Mix the cornstarch and water together in a bowl and set aside. (Be sure to remix with a fork just before using.)
VINAIGRETTE
2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
2 teaspoons sesame oil
Combine the ingredients in a bowl, mix well, and set aside.
2 scallions, both white and green parts, minced (see tip below)
2 sheets rice paper, halved (sold in supermarkets and Asian markets, made from rice flour)
Kosher salt
1 pint plus 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
To a large heavy-bottomed pan or deep fryer, add the 1 quart vegetable oil or enough oil to fill to 1 inch deep, and heat at 400°F until it begins to smoke. This may take up to 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat a large nonstick sauté pan and 1 tablespoon of the remaining vegetable oil over high heat for 1 minute, or until the oil begins to recede. Add the marinated shrimp in a single layer and slowly move around in the pan so they sear evenly on both sides but do not cook completely. Remove the shrimp from the pan and set aside in a bowl.
Decrease the heat to low. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and the garlic and ginger aromatics. Continue to cook over low heat until the garlic just begins to brown, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the chili sauce, then add the sake sauce. Return the pan to the burner and increase the heat to high. Cook until the sauce comes to a boil, then return the shrimp to the pan and finish cooking, about 2 minutes longer. Stir in the cornstarch thickener until the sauce just begins to thicken. Remove the pan from the heat and mix in the vinaigrette and scallions.
By this time, the pan of oil should be just beginning to smoke. Turn off the heat and carefully drop in half a sheet of rice paper and immediately remove it using tongs. The rice paper will expand as soon as it makes contact with the hot oil, so it is important to move quickly. Gently place the puffed rice paper on a paper towel–lined plate and sprinkle with a pinch of kosher salt. Repeat with the remaining rice paper.
Transfer the shrimp to a large serving platter and set the puffed rice paper around the rim. Serve immediately.
Begin by slicing the scallions lengthwise into quarters, then bunch the pieces together and cut very thin. Finish by chopping the slices. This will save time by making the pieces smaller in the beginning.
This is a very comforting, home-style dish, perfect for a blustery autumn day. Be sure to use only firm tofu for this recipe; softer varieties will fall apart during cooking. The trio of cultivated shiitake, enoki, and shimeji mushrooms is a classic combination in Japanese cooking, and it adds a nice woodsy and earthy flavor to this dish. You can use other kinds of mushrooms, too, if you’d like, everything from the humble button mushroom to fancier porcinis or chanterelles—whatever your budget allows.
Serves 4
BROTH
½ cup mirin
1½ cups Dashi
¼ cup Japanese soy sauce
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons water
TOFU
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 (19-ounce) package firm tofu, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into 4 long rectangles (approximately 1 by 2 by 3 inches)
¼ cup cornstarch
¼ cup thinly sliced celery
½ cup thinly sliced red onion
½ cup peeled and thinly sliced carrot
½ cup thinly sliced stemmed shiitake mushrooms
½ cup thinly sliced shimeji mushrooms
½ cup thinly sliced enoki mushrooms
1 scallion, both white and green parts, thinly sliced on an angle
2 obha leaves, halved and thinly sliced
To make the broth, combine the mirin, dashi, soy sauce, and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. In a bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and water. Bring the broth just to a boil, then slowly whisk in the cornstarch mixture until the broth thickens slightly. Remove from the heat and set aside. (Note: The broth can be made up to 1 day in advance and stored in the refrigerator; reheat when ready to use.)
To prepare the tofu, heat an 11-inch nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil. Lightly dredge the tofu pieces in the cornstarch and place in the hot pan. Cook until golden brown, 2½ to 3 minutes per side. Remove from the pan.
Using the same pan, add the remaining 1 tablespoon sesame oil, then the celery, red onion, carrot, shiitake mushrooms, shimeji mushrooms, and enoki mushrooms. Cook over high heat until the vegetables become soft, about 2 minutes, then add half the broth and cook for 30 seconds longer. Remove from the heat.
Set each piece of tofu in a shallow bowl and top with one-fourth of the cooked vegetables. Pour equal parts of the remaining broth into each bowl and garnish with the scallion and obha leaves.
