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São Luís

Maranhão @ n Setur, Rua da Palma 53; www.saoluis.ma.gov.br/setur

Home to Brazil’s best examples of Portuguese colonial architecture, São Luís was, ironically, founded by the French in 1612. The city was settled under Portuguese rule in 1644. By the late 1800s, as slavery ended and the city’s cotton industry began to struggle, São Luís went into decline. In the 1970s, the government invested in preservation, and in 1997, the core of São Luís was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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t A steep, cobblestoned street in the historical center of São Luís, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

experience Piauí and Maranhão

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n Double-tap image to read the labels

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Palácio dos Leões

Avenida Dom Pedro II # 9am–6pm Tue–Fri (to 5pm Sat & Sun) sectur.ma.gov.br/palacio-dos-leoes

Dominating the UNESCO-recognized World Heritage center of São Luís, this distinguished historic building is now home to Maranhão state’s government. Fronted by two bronze lions and featuring an immaculately symmetrical white facade, the palace holds a strategic shoreside position, built on the former site of the French Fort St. Louis, and flanked by the Anil and Bacanga rivers. One wing remains open to the public today, housing a fine collection dating from the 16th century, including period furniture, tapestries, sculptures, and ornaments.

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Centro de Cultura Popular Vieira Filho

Rua do Giz 221 § (98) 3218 9926 # 9am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun

The Center of Popular Culture (also known as the Casa da Festa) is dedicated to showcasing the traditions and customs of the Festa do Divino Espírito Santo. The highlights of the museum are the poster-size photographs of the actual celebrations, including some compelling black-and-white images of the elderly women who once served as festival queens.

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Odylo Costa Filho Creative Arts Center

Rampa do Comércio 200, Praia Grande § (98) 3221 2955

This small but impressive arts complex in the historic center includes a theater, cinema, and library. It also has extensive exhibition space, with community activities including dance workshops and craft shows. Its exhibitions are free to the public, and cover a wide range, from photography to modern Afro-Brazilian art.

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Casa do Maranhão

Rua do Trapiche s/n # 9am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun saoluis.ma.gov.br/setur

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t Colorful flags hanging throughout the city in preparation for the Festa do Bumba Meu Boi

The Casa do Maranhão is one of the city’s most interesting museums, offering two floors of colorful exhibits that explain the Festa do Bumba Meu Boi, one of the most popular festivals in Brazil. Besides this, the collection focuses on the rich folklore and traditions from across Maranhão. Exhibits include musical instruments, costumed figures, and religious artifacts. Although the explanations are in Portuguese only, it’s a richly rewarding site.

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Igreja da Sé

Praça Dom Pedro II

The city’s twin-towered cathedral is built on the site of an original 1615 church named Nossa Senhora da Vitoria (Our Lady of Victory), in tribute to a battle won by the Portuguese over the French in the same year. Since then another church has been built, with renovations over the centuries. A Neo-Classical facade was added in 1922, lending the cathedral an imposing appearance.

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São Luís Beaches

São Luís is blessed with a string of excellent beaches, all of which can be easily accessed by bus from the city center. Farther north, popular beaches include Ponta d’Areia, São Marcos, Praia do Calhau, Calhau, and Olho d’Agua. Calhau, located 6 miles (10 km) from São Luís, is widely considered to be one of the nicest beaches around the city. Many busy kiosks and restaurants line the beachside boulevard. Adjacent to this beach is the quieter Praia do Caolho, where the water is calm and the restaurants are fewer.

BUMBA MEU BOI

A unique folklore event endemic to northeast Brazil, the Festa do Bumba Meu Boi revolves around a legendary folktale about the life, death, and resurrection of a magical Brazilian bull. Over the centuries, the celebration has grown into a huge festival, with neighborhood groups competing to put on the best re-enactment of the story. A papier-mâché bull is created and displayed in raucous parades, where participants take on the roles of medicine men, peasants, and cowboys.