t Unusual rock formations in the Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades
Founded in 1852, Teresina was named in honor of the Empress Teresa Cristina, wife of Brazilian Emperor Dom Pedro II. Teresina has the dubious honor of being one of Brazil’s hottest cities, although Rio Parnaíba and Rio Poti, as well as several large, tree-shaded squares scattered throughout Teresina, moderate the worst of the city’s scorching heat.
Most historic buildings date back only to the end of the 19th century. One of the oldest buildings is the cathedral, Nossa Senhora do Amparo. Construction was started in 1851 but completed only in 1952. More modern, but also interesting, is the Palácio Karnak, Piauí’s new state legislature. Built in 1926, the palace’s facade was modeled on an ancient Egyptian temple. The former state legislature is now home to the Museu do Piauí. Its small collection provides a good overview of regional history, including both pre-historic artifacts and folk art.
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t Unusual rock formations in the Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades
The name Sete Cidades (Seven Cities) refers to seven distinct and unusual rock formations, spread out in the park along 7 miles (12 km) of trails. Only the first six are accessible to the public. Sculpted by rain, wind, heat, and erosion, the rocks are said to resemble animals, people, mythological beings, and even man-made structures. Among the shapes are Mapa do Brasil, a backward-facing map of Brazil, and Biblioteca (Library), both in Quarta Cidade (Fourth City). Segundo Cidade, the second of the seven “cities,” has a 147-ft- (45-m-) tall lookout with views out over five of the cities of stone. There are also more than 2,000 prehistoric rock paintings, some 6,000 years old. The most impressive painting, Pedra de Inscrição (Inscribed Rock), said to be marked with cryptic historic runes, can be seen at Quinta Cidade (Fifth City).
Just across from São Luís, Alcântara lies on the other side of the Baía de São Marcos. The city was colonized by the Portuguese in the 1640s, and used as a temporary capital and base during the campaign to drive the Dutch away from São Luís. Alcântara reached its zenith in the 19th century as the regional center for the surrounding sugar and cotton plantations. When slavery was abolished in 1888, the local economy crashed, the white upper class departed, and many of the fine mansions stood abandoned.
Restoration has been slow and quite a few of the city’s churches, such as the striking São Matias church, and mansions remain as ruins, giving the city its own charm. These ruins are now the town’s main tourist attractions. The Brazilian Heritage Institute, Iphan, has restored several of the old mansions as museums. The best is the Museu Casa Histórica de Alcântara, featuring period furniture and glassware. Informative wall plaques and well-trained guides make getting around in the museum easy.
t The ruins of the 17th century São Matias church in Matriz Plaza, Alcântara
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⌂ Praça de Matriz s/n # 9am–5pm Tue–Sun
One of the world’s largest wetlands, the Reentrâncias Maranhenses is also one of Maranhão’s more off-the-beaten-track natural attractions. The small town of Cururupu to the north of São Luís offers the best access to the Reentrâncias Maranhenses, with boats departing regularly. Spread over an area of 10,350 sq miles (26,800 sq km), the park forms an important habitat for shorebirds such as scarlet ibis, spoonbills, and black-bellied plovers, as well as an array of marine life, including sea turtles and manatees. The region is geographically diverse and consists of a complex riverine system of extensive bays, coves, and rugged coastline covered mainly by mangrove forest.
One of the more popular destinations here is the Ilha dos Lençóis, northeast of Cururupu. Its geography somewhat resembles the Lençóis Maranhenses, with its endless landscapes of dunes and lagoons.
EXPERIENCE Piauí and Maranhão
A Piauí legend tells the story of Crispim, a fisherman who lived by the banks of the Rio Parnaíba. Frustrated after not catching any fish, he beat his mother with a bone. As she lay dying, she cursed him, condemning him to live as a bowl-headed monster in the river. Locals still tell of spotting Crispim in the river.