PORCHETTA

Serves 8 to 12

Porchetta is the pièce de résistance of any feast. This roast pork, which cooks for several hours, has remarkably crispy skin and succulent meat.

Porchetta was a favorite of the Roman Emperor Nero and was served at Roman army camps, affording a nourishing meal to hungry soldiers, who did not get to eat meat often. The ancient Roman version of porchetta was roasted underground in a pit.

In the 15th century, Italy began to observe Sunday as a holy day. Making and enjoying porchetta became central to the day’s activities.

When serving porchetta to your guests, make sure everyone gets a piece of the cracklings—the sublime crispy skin.

1 (7- to 8-pound) bone-in, skin-on pork shoulder roast or 1 (6- to 7-pound) boneless roast, fat trimmed to ¼-inch thickness

3 tablespoons fennel seeds

1 tablespoon red pepper flakes

Grated zest of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage

2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

4 garlic cloves, minced

1½ tablespoons sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup olive oil

Score the skin and fat all over the roast in a checkerboard pattern, about ⅓ inch deep. Do not cut into the meat.

In a food processor (a mini processor works best), combine the fennel seeds, red pepper flakes, lemon zest, sage, rosemary, garlic, salt, and black pepper. Pour in the oil and pulse until the ingredients form a paste. Rub the paste all over the roast. If using a boneless roast, tie with kitchen string every 2 inches.

Put the roast in a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.

Remove the roast from the refrigerator 1 to 2 hours before roasting.

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Transfer the pork to a roasting pan and roast for 35 minutes.

Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F and continue to roast for 3 to 4 hours. The roast is done when an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part reads 180°F. (Bone-in roasts take longer to cook than boneless ones.)

Transfer the pork to a cutting board and let the meat sit for 15 to 30 minutes before carving and serving.

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