SERVES 4
One of my favorite crispy chicken preparations, schnitzel is a perfect weeknight dish, since only a short list of mostly basic pantry ingredients is required. I always understood this simple breaded cutlet to be popular German and Austrian fare (and that Italians have a version, too). It wasn’t until I went to Israel in my late teens, to travel and work on a kibbutz, that I learned it’s ubiquitous there, as well—brought to the country by Eastern European immigrants. My fellow kibbutzniks made many variations of schnitzel, but the Middle Eastern rendition was the one I loved most. To re-create it today is easy, thanks to the relatively widespread availability of the Middle Eastern spice blend za’atar. Served with a crisp, bright Israeli salad, this schnitzel is equally at home on a dinner plate as it is packed into a pita with a spoonful of hummus and a drizzle of hot sauce.
1 red, yellow, or orange bell pepper, cut into ⅓-inch cubes
½ English cucumber, cut into ⅓-inch cubes
½ small red onion, cut into ¼-inch pieces
1 pint cherry tomatoes, quartered
¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon za’atar (see Kitchen Wisdom)
1 teaspoon sumac (optional)
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs
1 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
1½ tablespoons za’atar (See Kitchen Wisdom, opposite)
Freshly grated zest of ½ lemon
4 (¼-inch-thick) chicken cutlets (about 1 pound)
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Lemon wedges for serving
To start the salad: In a large bowl, combine the bell pepper, cucumber, onion, tomatoes, parsley, and mint. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
For the schnitzel: Heat the oven to 200ºF. Place an ovenproof platter or a baking sheet in the oven to warm.
In a wide, shallow bowl, stir together the flour, 1 teaspoon salt, and a generous pinch of pepper. Whisk together the eggs and a pinch of salt in another shallow bowl. Combine the panko, za’atar, lemon zest, and a pinch of salt in a third shallow bowl.
Using the flat side of a meat pounder or a rolling pin, gently pound each cutlet between 2 sheets of plastic wrap to an ⅛-inch thickness. Pat the cutlets dry and season both sides lightly with salt and pepper. Dredge in the seasoned flour, shaking off excess. Dip in the eggs, letting excess drip off, then gently press into the panko mixture to completely coat. Transfer the cutlets to a large plate.
Heat the ½ cup oil in a 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Fry the cutlets in 2 batches, turning once, until cooked through and crispy, about 3 minutes per side. Drain each batch on paper towel–lined plates, season with salt, then transfer to the platter in the oven to keep warm.
To finish the salad, add the 2 tablespoons oil, lemon juice, za’atar, sumac if using, and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper to the vegetable mixture. Toss to combine. Serve the schnitzel with the salad piled on top and lemon wedges on the side.
Za’atar—an earthy, citrusy, eastern Mediterranean mix of dried herbs and seeds that often includes marjoram, thyme, sumac, cumin, and toasted sesame seeds—is a spice blend that I can’t seem to get enough of. A tasty seasoning for flatbread, baked chicken, or fish, I also love it swirled with good olive oil into Greek yogurt for an amazing snack or dip. And, sprinkled over fried or scrambled eggs? Absolute heaven! Lucky for me, za’atar is easy to come by in my Brooklyn neighborhood. If it’s not available in your neck of the woods, you can easily find it online (see Sources, here).