MAKES 12 SANDWICHES
Alex Lee, one of the most accomplished and talented chefs I know, spent ten years at the helm of Daniel Boulud’s flagship restaurant, Daniel. For a few years during his tenure, I managed the restaurant group’s events and public relations. One summer day, after taping a cooking demo in Connecticut for a local TV station, Alex suggested we play hooky, and—instead of returning directly to the restaurant—find our way to a nearby creamery, known for its exceptional peach ice cream. That beguiling taste of fresh peaches and cream (so worth the detour!) was the inspiration for these ice cream sandwiches.
Browning the butter before folding it into the cookie batter contributes a rich, nutty flavor. Once you try it you may never go back to conventional cookie-making again. I opt for finely chopped dates in the cookies, because I prefer their lightly caramel flavor. But raisins can be substituted, if you prefer.
1½ cups old-fashioned whole oats
10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¾ cup packed dark brown sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup coarsely chopped pitted dates
¾ cup walnut halves, coarsely chopped (optional)
2 ripe peaches, pitted and cut into ¼-inch cubes (1½ cups)
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 quart premium vanilla ice cream
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
For the cookies: Heat the oven to 350°F with the racks in upper and lower thirds.
On a rimmed baking sheet, spread the oats in a single layer. Bake on the lower rack, stirring once halfway through, until fragrant and lightly toasted, about 12 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack; let the oats cool completely.
Meanwhile, place 5 tablespoons of the butter in a 1-to 2-quart saucepan. Cook over low heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until the butter has a nutty aroma, is a rich brown color, and the bottom of the pan is speckled with browned bits of the milk solids, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer the brown butter to a small bowl and let cool for 20 minutes.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the cooled toasted oats, flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, beat the remaining 5 tablespoons soft butter and the brown sugar on medium-high until very smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the brown butter and continue beating on medium-high until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Mix in the egg and beat thoroughly, scraping down the sides of the bowl if necessary, until incorporated. Beat in the vanilla. With the mixer on low, or by hand, mix in the dry ingredients until just combined. Fold in the dates, and walnuts if using.
Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Form the dough into 24 balls (each about 2 tablespoons). Arrange the balls on the baking sheets, spacing at least 2 inches apart. Press each ball into an even 2-inch round.
Bake 10 minutes for soft and chewy cookies. Remove from the oven and let cool for 1 to 2 minutes on the baking sheets. Using a spatula, transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.
For the ice cream: Heat the oven to 400ºF. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
In a small bowl, toss together the peaches and granulated sugar; let stand at room temperature for 5 minutes. Spread the mixture in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet and roast until the fruit is tender and lightly golden at the edges, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely.
Meanwhile, let the ice cream stand at room temperature until softened, 8 to 10 minutes, then transfer to a large freezer-proof bowl. Mix in the roasted peaches and cinnamon. Freeze until firm, at least 2 hours or up to 3 days.
To assemble the sandwiches: Place 12 of the cookies flat-side up on a clean work surface. Working quickly, place ⅓ cup ice cream on each. Sandwich with remaining 12 cookies, flat sides together, and gently press to adhere. Serve immediately, or wrap individually in plastic wrap and then in foil, and freeze for up to 3 days.