FAVORITE PANTRY BOOSTERS

Most chefs and avid home cooks have a list of go-to ingredients they can’t live without. I call mine “pantry boosters.” These are items I keep well-stocked in my pantry and fridge—the utility players I count on, whether I’m putting together one of my favorite recipes or a quick weeknight meal on the fly. While not an all-inclusive list of pantry ingredients, these are the ones you’ll see recurring in this book in a variety of ways. Try keeping at least a few of them on hand in your kitchen. I bet they’ll soon become your favorites, too!

Anchovies: These versatile little fish are packed with flavor and easy to find in just about any sort of food market. Known for their saline funkiness, good-quality anchovies, in moderation, add a unique complexity to dishes that is often surprisingly subtle. Use them to top toasts, cook into pasta sauces, and blend into salad dressings or savory butters to spread on bread or melt and drizzle over grilled or roasted vegetables (here). The highest-quality anchovies come packed in salt and need to be soaked, rinsed, and removed from the bone before using, but there are many less fussy high-quality oil-packed versions that are equally delicious. Look for oil-packed anchovies (canned or jarred) imported from Spain, Italy, or Morocco. After opening, transfer unused canned portions into a small jar and cover with olive oil. Anchovies keep, covered and refrigerated, for many months. Once you’ve eaten the anchovies, use their oil for salad dressings or drizzle it over pasta. It’s also packed with salty, savory flavor.

Canned whole tomatoes: When fresh tomatoes are in season, I can’t get enough. The rest of the year I opt for canned versions, which I count on for convenience and quality. Use them to make quick weeknight sauces for pastas, as a delicious base for soups or baked eggs, or to simmer chicken or fish in (I often add olives and sprigs of fresh herbs). When available, I choose DOP-certified San Marzano tomatoes, which, cultivated especially for cooking, are prized for their sweetness and low acidity. DOP stands for denominazione di origine protteta, signifying that a product comes from a particular region and is produced in accordance with regulated standards.

Capers: Bright, tangy, and floral, capers add a great pop of salty, pungent flavor to pastas, tuna and potato salads, chicken, salmon, and other fish dishes. They’re also great in flavored butters, essential for a bagel brunch (here), and a key element in the totally addictive sauce for My Kinda Burger (here). Capers are sold packed in brine or salt. The latter tend to be plumper, firmer, sharper, and purer in flavor (they’re also more expensive); I prefer them, especially for fresh applications, but I rely equally on the brine-packed version. Rinse capers in several changes of water before using to remove excess salt or brine.

Citrus: A little bit of citrus goes a long way in adding bright flavor to savory and sweet dishes. I use it in practically everything—as both an easy way to enhance the flavor of a dish or as its driving force—and love experimenting with all sorts of varieties, including grapefruits, lemons, limes, blood oranges, and mandarins. You’ll find citrus used throughout this book, including in drinks and salad dressings; and squeezed over cooked meat and fish dishes, and into finished soups. The zest alone is great for making simple sauces (here) or sprinkling over savory dishes or desserts (here). Citrus juices can be blended and used in sauces, drinks, or sweets. One of my favorite techniques is to char citrus before squeezing it, which is a great way to add a smoky note to drinks and dressings and helps get every ounce of juice out of the fruit (here, here).

Coconut flakes, chips, and oil: I keep a plethora of all things coconut on hand, because I love the flavor in all sorts of dishes from breakfast to dessert, and even drinks (here). Toasting coconut flakes and chips before using adds a nutty quality and intensifies the sweet, tropical flavor.

Fish sauce: This pungent amber-colored liquid adds a deep savoriness to dipping sauces, slaws, and salad dressings, sauces for shrimp or fish, and even Asian omelets (here). It’s also a great seasoning for Asian broths, roasted vegetables, and fried rice. Most fish sauce sold in the U.S. comes from Vietnam and Thailand, where it is called nuoc mam and nam pla, respectively. I prefer the slightly milder Vietnamese version, though they are equally good. Add fish sauce to dishes little by little, as it’s a powerful flavor agent.

Harissa: This North African paste, made up of chili peppers, garlic, and aromatic spices, like coriander, cumin, and mint, is one of my favorite condiments, not only for its heat but also for its complex blend of flavors. I use it in salad dressings (here), sauces, shakshuka, and other baked egg dishes; as a rub for roast chicken or fish; and as an all-purpose hot sauce for cooked meats and more.

Horseradish: I fold this earthy, sinus-clearing root vegetable (which is actually a member of the cabbage family) into cream cheeses for bagels, mayo for sandwiches, and yogurt or sour cream to use as a dip. I also whisk it into warm sauces and salad dressings, add it to soups and stews, and use it to make a piquant crust for salmon or brisket (here). Horseradish is sold both fresh and jarred (aka “prepared”). The best prepared types are refrigerated, and are most often simply horseradish, vinegar, and salt. The shelf-stable ones contain added ingredients, like preservatives, sugars, oils, and artificial flavorings, and don’t taste nearly as pure or delicious. When shopping for fresh horseradish, look for plump, firm roots. Fresh horseradish should be peeled before grating, and grated in a well-ventilated space.

Malt vinegar: Made from fermented malted barley or sour unhopped beer, this robust, savory vinegar is the British go-to for fish and chips, and the Canadian choice for dressing French fries. At home, I use it on crispy roasted smashed potatoes (here); roasted vegetables; and in simple marinades for chicken or steak.

Miso: I use miso (fermented soy paste) to up the ante in glazes for meats and fish, flavored butters, salad dressings, broths, and soups. For my Grilled Corn with Miso-Chili Butter and lots more miso info, see here.

Mustard: My number one favorite condiment of all time is mustard. I keep at least three varieties in my fridge, including Dijon, grainy mustard, and even the golden yellow “ballpark” type. For me, no sandwich is complete without mustard (even my egg sandwich on here). I also use it in dressings and sauces, under the skin of chicken before roasting, and as a dip for French fries. It’s no wonder my favorite breakfast is Welsh rarebit (toast smothered in a sauce made from sharp cheddar, beer, and mustard from Wales) with an egg on top, the recipe for which I shared in my first book, Talking with My Mouth Full.

Nuts and seeds: These little guys pack a lot of unexpected punch, adding crunch, flavor, and dimension to all sorts of dishes. You’ll find them liberally sprinkled throughout this book, in everything from warm breakfast cereals (here) to soups, salads, roasted vegetable and fish dishes, and of course sweets. Toasting whole nuts and seeds before using intensifies their flavor.

Parmesan cheese: It’s worth buying good-quality Parmesan cheese (look for the Italian import Parmigiano-Reggiano at good supermarkets and cheese shops) and keeping a hunk in your fridge to grate or shave over pastas, baked eggs, salads, and even soups (here), but also to use in salad dressings and sweet or savory doughs, mix with breadcrumbs to make crusts for meat or fish (here), or make a crispy Italian snack, called frico. The rinds can be saved—they keep forever, sealed in an airtight plastic bag and stored in the freezer—to enhance broths and soups (add them at the beginning of the recipe, then remove and discard before serving). To grate Parmesan, use a box or rasp grater; to shave it, try a vegetable peeler, or very thinly slice with a sharp chef’s knife. Parmesan, like all cheeses, keeps best tightly wrapped in cheese paper or in parchment or wax paper, then with foil or plastic wrap. When you take Parmesan out of the fridge, let it stand uncovered for 15 minutes before using, to allow moisture lost by refrigeration to reabsorb into the cheese.

Pickles: These briny, crunchy, sharp, salty, vinegary bites are EVERYTHING to me. I love making my own pickled vegetables and fruits (here). I also keep a collection of store-bought types on hand to serve as snacks, slip into sandwiches, or batter and fry (here). Pickles are a great counterpoint to rich or fatty dishes, like burgers, egg sandwiches, and my mom’s amazing chopped liver (here). Putting them in boozy cocktails might even keep you young (here).

Scallions: These unassuming immature onions are well known in Asian and Mexican cuisines and add dimension to many dishes. They’re great chopped and sprinkled over salads; added to dressings or sauces; folded into or used as a garnish for rice, noodles and egg dishes; or broiled, grilled, or roasted, which brings out their sweetness. Both the whites and greens are edible; the greens are milder, and perfect both for cooking and using raw, without the intense bite that other onions might add.

Spices and spice blends: Keeping good-quality spices on hand means you can dress up a piece of meat or fish and all sorts of vegetables in infinitely exciting ways before grilling, roasting, or pan-cooking. Spices are also great for seasoning and using in baked goods. It’s always fun to experiment with blends, devising your own mixes to suit your personal taste. As you will quickly come to know through this book, my favorite spices and spice blends include Aleppo pepper, caraway, cardamom, cayenne, chile powder, cinnamon, coriander, cumin, dukkah, ginger, sumac, turmeric, and za’taar. In my kitchen, I have a dedicated spice grinder for grinding whole spices, but you can also crush them with a mortar and pestle or the bottom of a heavy saucepan. Toasting spices before grinding brings out their aroma and flavor; use low heat and keep your eye on the pan, as spices can quickly burn. Keep spices in a drawer or pantry, away from sunlight and heat. Refresh ground spices every six to twelve months, as their potency tends to diminish with time. Whole spices keep a little longer.