seoulfashionweek.org. Since it first opened in 2000, this has become Asia’s largest fashion event, functioning as a great showcase for Seoul’s up-and-coming designers. They repeat it in October for the Autumn/Winter collections.Most of Seoul’s festivals are concentrated around spring and autumn, but a whole host are spread throughout the year. If you’re heading to one, don’t be shy – the locals love to see foreigners joining in with traditional Korean events, and those who dare to get stuck in may finish the day with a whole gang of new friends.
It must be said that a large proportion of Korean festivals are quite unappealing: many are brazenly commercial in nature, making no bones about being held to “promote the salted seafood industry”, for example. Other festivals include those dedicated to agricultural utensils, clean peppers and the “Joy of Rolled Laver” – you’ll easily be able to spot the duds. The most interesting events are highlighted here, though bear in mind that celebrations for two of the big national festivals – Seollal, the Lunar New Year, and a Korean version of Thanksgiving named Chuseok – are family affairs that generally take place behind closed doors. As long as you’re not in Seoul during the long, cold winter, you’ll almost certainly be able to catch a festival of some kind. In addition to the traditional parades and street performances on Insadonggil (usually every Thurs, Fri and Sat), there are a whole host of events, of which a selection is detailed here.
Seoul Fashion Week April seoulfashionweek.org. Since it first opened in 2000, this has become Asia’s largest fashion event, functioning as a great showcase for Seoul’s up-and-coming designers. They repeat it in October for the Autumn/Winter collections.
Cherry Blossom April. Though the exact dates are determined by the weather, Seoulites get their picnicking equipment together as soon as the soft pink flowers are fluted through the cherry trees. Yeouido is the most popular place to go – bring a bottle of soju and make a bunch of friends.
Jongmyo Daeje First Sunday of May. Korean kings performed their ancestral rites at the Jongmyo shrine for hundreds of years prior to the end of the monarchy, and it’s been carried forward to this day; the event is necessarily sober but very interesting, and is followed by traditional court dances.
Buddha’s Birthday Late May. With their courtyards strewn with colourful paper lanterns, temples are the place to be at this age-old event, which is also a national holiday. In the evening a huge lantern parade heads to Jogyesa temple along Jongno; get window-space early in one of the cafés overlooking the street.
Seoul International Cartoon & Animation Festival Late May sicaf.org. Koreans young and old are major cartoon addicts, but while most of the ntional fix is sated by Japanese fare, there’s still a lot of local talent – The Simpsons, Family Guy and Spongebob Squarepants are among the shows inked and lined here. Screenings take place in several locations.
International Women’s Film Festival Late May wffis.or.kr. A week-long succession of films that “see the world through women’s eyes” (even if they were created by men).
Dano Mid-June. An age-old event centred around the shamanist rituals still practised by many Koreans, this takes place at locations across the city, but is best experienced in the Namsangol Hanok Village. It’s also your best chance to see ssireum, a Korean form of wrestling.
Korean Queer Culture Festival Mid-July kqcf.org. Not exactly an event trumpeted by the local tourist authorities – in fact, not so long ago the police were still trying to ban it – this is a great way to see Korea crawling out of its Confucian shell. A fortnight-long programme includes a film festival, art exhibitions and the obligatory street parade.
Jisan Valley and Pentaport Rock Festivals July pentaportrock.com. Two competing European-style music festivals (think tents, mud and portable toilets) which manage to rope in major international acts, though admittedly ones usually on the wane in their homelands. Both events stretch across three alcohol-fuelled nights, the revelry running non-stop.
Seoul Fringe Festival August seoulfringefestival.net. This fortnight-long platform for all things alternative is very popular with local students, and its semi-international nature means that certain events will appeal to visitors from overseas, with Hongdae usually the best place to be.
Seoul Performing Arts Festival Late Sept and early Oct spaf.or.kr. This increasingly acclaimed event has seen performances from as far afield as Latvia and Israel, though its main aim is to showcase Korean talent. It takes place in various locations around Seoul over a three-week period.
Jarasum Arts Festival Mid-Oct jarasumjazz.com. Very popular with expats, this takes place on Jara-seom, an islet east of Seoul, near Gapyeong.
Seoul Drum Festival Early Oct seouldrum.go.kr. The crashes and bangs of all things percussive ring out at this annual event, which takes place in the Gwanghwamun area.
Seoul Street Art Festival Oct festivalseoul.or.kr. With everything from choreographed firework displays and tea ceremonies to men walking across the Hangang by tightrope, this ten-day-long celebration is the best time to be in the city.
Pepero Day Nov 11. A crass marketing ploy, but an amusing one nonetheless – like Pocky, their Japanese cousins, Pepero are thin sticks of chocolate-coated biscuit, and on this date in the year when it looks as if four of them are standing together, millions of Koreans say “I love you” by giving a box to their sweethearts, friends, parents or pets.