Impressed by the people of the North
In 2007, we took another of our numerous trips north of 60. This time, we went to a small hamlet on the edge of Foxe Basin called Igloolik. This area has a history that dates back 4,000 years. We were interested in seeing the wildlife, such as birds, walruses, whales and hopefully a polar bear. We were well-rewarded thanks to two Inuit guides, Manasi and Lainiki. A komatik (sled), pulled by a snowmobile rather than a dog team, took us to the ice edge, where the guides were waiting with modern boats to take us wildlife viewing.
While we loved seeing the amazing wildlife, we also met and learned much about the local people and culture. In winter, the residents of Igloolik live in southern-style homes with conveniences such as TV, microwaves, dishwashers and computers. In summer, however, some abandon all this and head to the edge of the ice at Igloolik Point to live in the traditional Inuit way with no power, phones or plumbing. We were camped beside these people and had a first-hand experience of their way of life.
The family we grew to know consisted of five generations: Rachael (106 years old), Atoa (72), Tam (38), Daniel (25) and Neil (three). Four family members lived in one tent, which consisted of a sleeping platform and cooking area. A kudlik (oil lamp), usually carved from soapstone, filled with seal oil and a wick of arctic cotton, gives warmth and light and is used to boil water for cooking. The wick is attended to constantly to avoid it burning too high. If this happened inside an igloo, it would melt the inside, causing it to ice over and transmit the outside cold in.
We watched Atoa sewing a new tent with a hand-crank sewing machine and repairing her other grandson Nathan’s shoes. She also prepared the hide of a second seal using an ulu to scrape the fat off. It was then scrubbed many times to get rid of the grease and then stretched to dry. The finished product would be used to make mitts for Nathan. Rachael was busy cutting and cleaning the meat, saving the oil for the kudlik. She also made a duster from the feathers of the goose that had been cooked for dinner.
Bill and I played many games of double solitaire on Sunday, sitting in the tent with our legs straight out. Atoa didn’t go to church that Sunday, even though she is a lay minister in the Anglican church. Her mother, Rachael, sat humming and singing hymns in Inuktitut. We all got along fine, even though we spoke different languages.
When we were taken to the airport at the end of our stay, we went early because Brad, Tam’s partner, had to meet the plane to get groceries and deliver them to Northern Store. This, we learned, is fairly typical of the North, where people often have two or three jobs.
We will always remember the warmth, friendliness and hospitality we experienced from these people. It was so kind of Tam and Brad, our official hosts, to share their family with us.
—by Joan Prunkl, Edmonton, Alberta