chapter four

THRIFTY

It can be a relative challenge to make vegetarian cooking particularly expensive—unless you have a penchant for the finest saffron and fresh produce from far-flung lands—but when you combine seasonal and local vegetables with cheap staples, such as dried beans, peas, lentils and whole grains, you can eat extremely well for very little indeed.

This is as much about where and when (in the year, that is) you shop as about what you buy. It’s a message often repeated these days, but I can’t stress it enough: Buy produce at the peak of its season. Make, say, my loose incarnation of the sunny Tunisian salad, mechouia, at the end of the summer when there is a veritable glut of the ripest tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and zucchini and you will pay far less, and be rewarded with terrific flavor. If repeated six months later, with imported vegetables, it will have none of the intensity, but will have an inflated price tag. Buy a privileged pear or cosseted mushroom, shrouded in layers of packaging, and, again, you will pay an inevitable premium. If you can seek out loose produce at times of abundance, you are bound to make significant savings.

Much of the time, the same packaging point can be made about dried spices. I try my best to avoid buying expensive jars when whole spices, bought in packages from Asian shops, are cheaper and usually fresher. Resist the temptation to buy large quantities unless you know you will race through them; the fresher the better when it comes to spice, so I recommend buying small amounts of whole spices to toast and grind at home. Musty, dusty ground spices make a poor substitute and won’t make your food sing.

A disclaimer when it comes to investing in spices, oils, vinegars and the like: I have assumed that the keen cook will have a decent pantry and spice drawer. The humble and filling ingredients on which this chapter focuses—think protein-packed legumes, roots, brassicas and the like—can take some serious spice, so be prepared to exercise a liberal hand.

We modern cooks waste food. In fact, the statistics on food waste in Western countries are downright frightening, so if you can weave shopping little and often into your week, planning your cooking according to what’s cheap and plentiful, you will inevitably throw less away. Weekly meal planning is admirable, but in practice, few people I know have the organizational skills to plan seven days’ worth of food in one outing. A few small shops might be slightly more time consuming, but they will keep you in touch with seasonal produce, allowing you to snap up bargains and cultivate the habit of buying only the fresh ingredients you need.

For years, I struggled with a miniscule, iced-up glove compartment masquerading as a freezer, so if you are in that same boat, I realize it can be frustrating to be advised to batch cook and freeze the extras. But, as the old adage goes, “two can live as cheaply as one,” and making double quantities of, say, soups and stews to freeze costs little more and will furnish you with future dinners. Having a larger freezer to store gluts of cheap fruit and (well-labeled) leftovers has been a revelation.

Rather than letting unused, soft herbs, kales and peppery salads go to waste, blend any leaves on the point of wilting with a little good oil and some nuts or seeds, if you have them. This rudimentary pesto can be frozen as is, ready to defrost and adapt when needed. Cilantro-based purées can be transformed into fresh curry pastes; basil, mint and parsley mixtures will either turn to pesto with some vegetarian Parmesan cheese stirred in, or a form of salsa verde with chopped capers and olives. If you can get into the habit of preserving these odds and ends as you cook other recipes—a form of good stock rotation, really—you won’t just cut down on food waste and spend less, you will become a better, more imaginative and resourceful cook, too.

Nowhere is a thoughtful flourish of pesto or herb oil more welcome than when spooned over a modest soup. Surely, a bowl of soup with bread is the ultimate frugal food, and you will find many variations here. I hope you find them worthy of cooking for friends when you don’t have much cash, as well as filling, nutritious and almost always suitable for freezing.

Lentils, beans and grains are perfect thrifty foundations. The cooked legumes and grains sold in fancy packages are, comparatively, very expensive and far less versatile. Better to buy the dried and, where relevant, whole-grain version and reap the nutritional benefits. If you remember to soak legumes you can shave a few pennies off, but I’ve generally opted for canned beans as they are still a good value and take less forethought.

Herbs, an ingredient I use in quantity across the board, are expensive when bought in tiny supermarket packages, but worth the outlay for their transformative effect on humble recipes. I recommend buying herbs in the far cheaper, loose bunches from markets and grocery stores. Growing your own in pots, window boxes or flowerbeds is obviously cheaper still. Or buy one of those stingy pots of growing herbs and replant a single plant in a larger pot or, thriftier still, split it into two or three and repot each. This will create a “cut and come again” herb garden on your windowsill in return for a few days’ watering, making that single plant a worthwhile investment.

Zucchini, Ricotta and Dill Tart with Spelt-Rye Pastry

A deep tart, packed with a light, summery mix of vegetables and a touch of buttermilk. Do squeeze as much moisture as possible from the zucchini or the filling will be watery. The pastry is a cinch, nutty and sweet from rye, but use any pie crust pastry, store-bought or not. If you don’t have a deep enough pan (2 inch/5 to 6 cm is ideal), use a 10-inch (25 cm) tart pan. A shallower tart will cook in 20 to 25 minutes.

Serves 8

For the pastry

• 2¾ cups (325 g) whole-grain spelt flour

• ⅔ cup (100 g) whole-grain rye flour

• ½ cup plus 6 tablespoons (200 g) chilled salted butter, chopped

For the filling

• 3 zucchini, shredded or coarsely grated

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 cup (150 g) peas, defrosted if frozen

• Small bunch of dill, finely chopped

• 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

• Finely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon

• ¾ cup (200 ml) buttermilk

• 1 cup (250 g) drained ricotta cheese

• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten

For the salad

• 1 pound (500 g) tomatoes, sliced or halved

• Small handful of oregano leaves

• Extra virgin olive oil

Start with the pastry (at least an hour ahead). Put both flours in a food processor, or, if making this by hand, a large bowl. Add the butter and pulse in the food processor, or rub in by hand, until it resembles fine bread crumbs. Add enough ice water to bring the mixture together in a ball, starting with 1½ tablespoons and working up to no more than 3 tablespoons, as needed. Again, either use a food processor here, being careful not to overwork the dough, or cut the water in with a table knife. Form the pastry into a flattened disc and roll out between sheets of parchment or wax paper until it is about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Unpeel the top sheet of paper and flip the pastry on to a 2-inch (5 to 6 cm) deep, 9-inch (23 cm) pie dish or tart pan. Unpeel the second sheet of paper (now on top) and press the pastry into the pan, trimming the edges flush with the dish. Keep the paper. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes, or up to 48 hours.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line the pastry with a saved paper sheet and fill with baking beans or raw rice. Bake for 15 minutes until the pastry is set and no longer looks wet. Remove the paper and beans and return to the oven for 5 to 6 minutes, until lightly colored.
Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C). Put the zucchini in a sieve and sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt, tossing to distribute evenly. Set aside for 10 minutes, then press down on them to drain. Put into a clean kitchen towel and wring out any remaining liquid very forcefully.
Combine the zucchini, peas, dill, capers and lemon zest in a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the buttermilk, half the ricotta and the eggs with a little salt and a lot of pepper. Fold the 2 mixtures together. Pour into the crust and dot with the remaining ricotta. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until just set. Set aside for 15 minutes so the filling can settle.
Toss the tomatoes with the oregano, lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil to taste. Season and serve the salad with slices of the warm or cold tart.

Roasted Broccoli Tart with a Cauliflower Crust

Despite my initial skepticism, I admit that vegetable pastry is a fantastic invention for those keeping an eye on carbs, gluten or both. Salted ricotta is a cheeky addition for a thrifty chapter, although a little goes a long way. Substitute feta for a cheaper alternative. Stretch this out to feed six smaller appetites (or four large) with roasted roots or a big salad; it is surprisingly filling.

Serves 4 to 6

• 4 cups (250 g) broccoli florets

• 7 ounces (200 g) small tomatoes

• 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for the dish

• Leaves from 3 sprigs of rosemary, finely chopped

• 3 cups (450 g) cauliflower florets

• ½ cup (50 g) almond meal

• 4 eggs

• ⅓ cup (30 g) finely grated vegetarian Parmesan cheese

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 5 ounces (150 g) salted ricotta cheese, finely sliced

• ¾ cup (200 ml) light cream

• ¼ cup (30 g) sliced almonds

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
Toss the broccoli and tomatoes with the oil and half the rosemary, spread out in a large roasting pan and roast for 30 to 35 minutes, until just browning.
Chop the cauliflower florets roughly. Blend half at a time in a food processor, until finely chopped, or grate the whole lot with a box grater; either way it should look like pale couscous. Transfer to a large baking sheet lined with nonstick parchment paper and spread out in an even layer. Slide into the oven for 15 minutes to dry out. Let cool for 10 minutes, then transfer into a clean kitchen towel, bring up the edges and twist. Squeeze as hard as you can to force as much water out as possible. Transfer the now-dry cauliflower to a mixing bowl.
Stir in the almond meal, 1 egg, the remaining rosemary, Parmesan cheese and plenty of salt and pepper. Line a 2-inch (5 to 6 cm) deep, 9-inch (23 cm) pie dish or tart pan with a circle of parchment paper to come right up the sides, and brush it lightly with olive oil (you can dispense with the paper, but it does make the tart easier to unmold). Mound the cauliflower mix into the dish, then press firmly and evenly over and up the sides, to make a crust.
Bake for 8 to 10 minutes directly on the oven floor, until just beginning to brown at the edges.
Arrange the roasted broccoli and tomatoes and the salted ricotta in the cauliflower crust. Beat the remaining 3 eggs with the cream, pour into the case and top with the sliced almonds. Return to the oven floor, reducing the temperature to 350°F (180°C). Bake for 25 minutes, or until just set with barely a wobble in the center when jiggled. Rest for at least 15 minutes before slicing, so the filling can set. Serve warm or cold.

Beet Soup with Horseradish

A little red wine balances the depth and sweetness of all the roasted vegetables here, rounding out the raucousness of beets in particular. I have given instructions to serve this soup hot as a bracing winter number, but it can also be a delicious and unexpected cold dish for warmer days, in which case whisk or swirl half the cold yogurt into the chilled soup just before serving.

Serves 4 to 6

• 2 pounds 10 ounces (1.2 kg; 7 to 8 medium) beets

• 4 shallots, skins on

• 1 fennel bulb, quartered

• A few sprigs of thyme

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• ½ teaspoon fennel seeds

• 1 quart (1 L) vegetable stock

• ½ cup (100 ml) red wine

• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon grated horseradish, fresh or jarred

• ⅓ cup (75 g) Greek yogurt

• Handful of store-bought beet chips, optional

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
Rinse the beets, trimming any stalks and leaves. (Save any nice baby leaves for a garnish.) Put the beets, still wet from rinsing, in a roasting pan with the shallots, fennel, thyme, olive oil and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover the pan tightly with foil and roast for 50 minutes. By this time, the beets should be tender and sweet and the shallots soft.
Meanwhile, cook the fennel seeds in a dry frying pan set over medium heat. They should take about 45 seconds to become fragrant and lightly toasted. Transfer into a mortar and crush with the pestle.
Set the roasted vegetables aside to cool for 10 minutes with the foil on, or, if you can’t wait, don rubber gloves and remove the foil immediately. Peel the skin from the beets and chop the insides roughly. Put the fennel seeds and beets into a large saucepan with the roasted fennel, discarding the thyme. Squeeze the shallot flesh into the pan, too, discarding the skins. Add the stock and red wine and bring to a boil slowly. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer for 15 minutes.
Stir the horseradish into the yogurt and season to taste.
Blend the soup, preferably in the pan with a hand blender for ease, until very smooth. Check the seasoning and reheat gently. Remove from the heat and immediately whisk in half the horseradish yogurt.
Divide the hot soup between warmed bowls, topping with spoonfuls of the remaining horseradish yogurt, a couple of reserved, well-washed beet leaves, if you have them, and a few beet chips for crunch, if you like.

Yogurt Soup with Lentils, Barley and Mint

I have tweaked this old, Turkish-style favorite over the years, but the original belongs to the food writer and owner of the Ginger and White cafes, Tonia George. It makes a soothing, unusual and exceptionally delicious soup. Finish it with a poached egg if you are very hungry. Pot or Scotch barley has a nicer chew than the more common pearl barley, so do try to get hold of it; you will find it in health food shops.

Serves 4 generously

• 3 tablespoons salted butter

• 1 onion, finely chopped

• 3 leeks, washed, trimmed and thinly sliced

• 2 green chiles, halved, deseeded if you prefer, finely chopped

• 2 teaspoons cumin seeds

• ⅔ cup (100 g) pot or Scotch barley or pearl barley

• 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour

• 5½ cups (1.3 L) vegetable stock

• ½ cinnamon stick

• One 15-ounce (400 g) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

• ⅓ cup (75 g) brown lentils

• 3½ cups (100 g) baby spinach

• ¾ cup (200 g) full-fat Greek yogurt

• Juice of 1 lemon

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 4 very fresh eggs, optional

• ½ garlic clove, crushed

• 1 teaspoon dried mint

• ½ teaspoon sweet smoked paprika

• Pinch of chile flakes

In a large saucepan or casserole set over low heat, melt half the butter and add the onion, leeks, chiles and cumin seeds. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very soft.
Add the barley and flour, stirring for 1 minute to cook out the flour. Stir in the stock and cinnamon stick and simmer for 25 minutes. Add the chickpeas and lentils and simmer for 20 minutes more, until the lentils are cooked and the barley is just tender but still has a bite. Stir in the spinach, remove from the heat and fish out the cinnamon stick.
If you will be including the poached eggs, half-fill a deep frying pan with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and leave to simmer gently.
In a separate bowl, whisk the yogurt and half the lemon juice with a ladleful of hot liquid from the soup pan. Stir this mixture back into the soup off the heat, then return it to a low flame. Stir gently for a couple of minutes; do not let it boil at any point or the soup will curdle. Taste and adjust with salt or pepper as you wish, remembering the butter added at the end will be quite salty.
Crack the eggs into the simmering water, spacing them out well. Poach very gently for 2½ to 3 minutes; the water should have barely a blip reaching its surface. Remove to a paper-towel-lined plate with a slotted spoon.
Melt the remaining butter in a small pan until foaming. Add the remaining lemon juice, the garlic, mint, paprika and chile flakes and cook until the butter turns a pale amber and smells nutty. Remove from the heat. Spoon most of the hot butter over the soup, then divide between warmed bowls, topping each with a poached egg, if using, and the rest of the butter.

Roasted Carrot Soup with Flatbread Ribbons

A sonorous soup, first roasted then slowly simmered, elevated with a flourish of toasted nigella seeds and fine strips of griddled flatbread. Fresh turmeric, long renowned for aiding digestion and calming inflammation, intensifies the deep golden hue of the soup. If you can’t find the fresh root—though larger supermarkets should have it—use ½ teaspoon ground turmeric instead, or replace it with fresh ginger root.

Serves 4

• 3½ pounds (1.6 kg) carrots, scrubbed and sliced

• 1 sweet white onion, sliced

• 2 tablespoons sunflower oil

• 2 unpeeled garlic cloves

• 1 red chile, halved and deseeded

• 5½ cups (1.3 L) vegetable stock

• ½- to 1-inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) piece fresh turmeric, peeled and finely chopped

• 1 teaspoon nigella seeds

• 1 thin, round flatbread

• ¼ cup (60 g) crème fraîche or Greek yogurt

• Scant handful of chive sprouts, or chives, chopped

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
Put the carrots and onion in a large baking pan and toss with the oil. Roast for about 20 minutes, then add the whole garlic cloves and halved chile, stirring everything thoroughly. Return to the oven for 20 minutes more, until the vegetables are soft and browned. Remove the papery skins from the soft garlic cloves.
Put the roasted vegetables in a large saucepan with the stock and turmeric. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 15 minutes, then purée, in batches if necessary, until completely smooth.
Toast the nigella seeds in a small frying pan set over medium heat until fragrant. Crush slightly with a mortar and pestle.
Put a griddle or frying pan over the heat and wait until it’s smoking hot. Add the flatbread. Cook for a few seconds on each side, until warmed through. Remove to a chopping board and slice into fine ribbons.
Gently reheat the soup over low heat. Divide between warmed bowls and serve with a spoonful of crème fraîche, the toasted nigella seeds, chive sprouts and flatbread ribbons.

Tarka Dal Soup

This substantial soup is made with chana dal (split, dried chickpeas) or the more common yellow dried split peas, which will make a slightly smoother soup. Chana dal, like all legumes, are famously good at balancing blood sugar and are also high in valuable protein, making this a nutritious as well as a filling supper for very little outlay. Add less stock to make a thicker dal, if you prefer.

Serves 4 generously

• 1¼ cups (250 g) chana dal, or dried yellow split peas, rinsed

• 3 garlic cloves, peeled

• 2 green chiles

• 3 tablespoons rice bran or peanut oil, or other flavorless oil

• 2 tablespoons cumin seeds

• Pinch of asafetida (hing), optional

• 3 shallots, sliced

• 1-inch (2.5 cm) piece fresh ginger root, peeled and finely chopped or grated

• 1½ teaspoons ground coriander

• 1 teaspoon garam masala

• ¾ teaspoon ground turmeric

• One 15-ounce (400 g) can plum tomatoes

• 1¼ cups (300 ml) vegetable stock, or as needed

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds

Put the chana dal in a large saucepan with 1 quart (1 L) of water. Bring to a boil, skim to remove any foam from the surface, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 to 45 minutes, or until tender. Beat well with a wooden spoon to break down the legumes. Set aside.
Meanwhile, crush 2 of the garlic cloves and slice the third finely. Pierce 1 chile with a knife, leaving it whole. Deseed and finely slice the second chile and add to the sliced garlic.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a second large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add half the cumin seeds and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in the asafetida, if using, with 2 of the sliced shallots and the whole chile. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the ginger, crushed garlic, coriander, garam masala and turmeric. Cook for a minute or so.
Snip the tomatoes in their opened can with scissors and transfer into the pan with ¾ cup (200 ml) of the stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the cooked chana dal and add the remaining ½ cup (100 ml) stock, as needed, to make a thick soup. At this stage, you can blend the soup with a hand blender if you would prefer it to be smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste and leave to simmer while you make the tarka.
In a small frying pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook for 30 seconds or so, until they fizz and crackle. Stir in the remaining sliced shallot, sliced chile and garlic, remaining cumin seeds and a pinch of salt. Cook through for 5 minutes, reducing the heat if it begins to catch. Divide the soupy dal between warmed bowls and spoon the tarka over to finish.

Split Pea Soup with Caraway Brussels Sprouts

In terms of soothing soups, yellow split peas are hard to beat, softening to velvet here as they cook with sweet vegetables. If you want more crunch at the end, be a little more generous with the butter used to cook the final flourish of brussels, throwing in a handful of small rye bread cubes halfway through. Keep them moving in the pan and they will turn crisp and golden by the time the sprout leaves are done.

Serves 4 to 6

• 1 large onion, finely chopped

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 large parsnip, scrubbed

• 2 large carrots, scrubbed

• ½ teaspoon caraway seeds

• Sprig of rosemary

• 1 cup (200 g) dried yellow split peas, rinsed

• 1½ quarts (1.5 L) vegetable stock

• 1 cup (75 g) brussels sprouts

• Squeeze of lemon juice

• 1 teaspoon olive oil

Put the onion in a large saucepan or Dutch overn with 1½ tablespoons of the butter and a pinch of salt. Set over low-ish heat to cook, stirring now and then.
Chop the parsnip and carrots into small cubes—this is largely an unblended soup—and add to the onion pan with half the caraway seeds and the rosemary, stirring to coat in the butter. The onion should be translucent by now, so increase the heat slightly and cook for a further 5 minutes, until the roots begin to soften. Stir in the split peas, followed by the stock and another good pinch of salt. Bring to a boil and skim to remove any foam from the surface.
Reduce the heat and leave the peas to simmer for 35 to 40 minutes, until very soft. This cooking time will largely depend on the age of the split peas so start to check after 30 minutes, being prepared to let them cook for anything up to an hour, if needed. Splash in water to prevent the mixture sticking toward the end of the cooking time if they take longer than planned.
Meanwhile, prepare the sprouts by slicing off their bases and separating the leaves, slicing any tightly packed middles that won’t unfurl.
Remove the rosemary sprig from the soup and blend about one third of it (easiest using a hand blender directly in the pan). Return to the heat, adjusting the consistency and seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. A squeeze of lemon juice should give the flavors a lift. Keep warm.
Put a large frying pan (you want the sprouts to have plenty of room) over high heat and add the remaining butter with the oil. Once foaming, throw in the remaining caraway seeds and the brussels sprouts, stir-frying for a few minutes until browned in places and just tender. Season. Divide the soup between warmed bowls and top with the charred sprout leaves.

Stuffed Baby Squash with Mujaddara

Assuming you have spices on hand already, this is, dare I say it, a dinner-party-worthy supper for very little outlay. It may seem fussy to cook the lentil component of the stuffing separately from the rice, but lentils are a strange beast, cooking very quickly or obstinately refusing to soften, depending on age and storage conditions. Cooking them solo means they cook perfectly without affecting the rice.

Serves 4

• 4 baby winter squash, about 5 inches (12 cm) in diameter or 1½ pounds (700 g) each

• ¼ cup (60 ml) sunflower oil, plus more for the squash

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 4 fresh bay leaves

• 2 large onions, finely sliced

• 2 tablespoons coriander seeds

• 2 teaspoons cumin seeds

• 1¼ cups (200 g) brown basmati rice

• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric

• Pinch of chile flakes

• 2¼ cups (520 ml) vegetable stock

• ¾ cup (150 g) green or brown lentils

• 7 cups (200 g) baby spinach leaves

• ¼ cup (60 g) plain yogurt

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
Cut the squash tops off about one quarter of the way down. Using a sturdy soup spoon, hollow out the centers, including all the seeds. (Please don’t attempt this with a knife; it is the fastest way to an injury.) Rub the squash with oil and season the insides generously with salt and pepper. Nestle into a roasting pan, large enough to hold all 4 squash, tucking the lids in wherever they will fit. Put a bay leaf into each hollow and roast for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, use your largest frying pan to cook the onions in 2 tablespoons of the oil with a large pinch of salt over medium heat. Stir often for 10 minutes, until softened and turning brown. Reduce the heat slightly and continue to cook for 10 minutes or so, stirring whenever the onions begin to catch. They should be soft, sweet and sizzling in places.
Put the coriander and cumin seeds in a medium saucepan with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Cook over low heat for a couple of minutes until the seeds are fizzing gently. Stir in the rice, turmeric and chile flakes, followed by the stock. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat and simmer for 25 minutes until the rice is tender. Set aside for a few minutes to finish cooking.
In a separate pan, cover the lentils with plenty of water, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer briskly for about 20 minutes, or until just tender (start checking after 15 minutes, though they might take up to 30). Drain well.
Add the spinach to the hot rice pan and stir through to wilt. Add half the fried onions and all the lentils, stirring well and seasoning to taste. Divide this mixture between the roasted squash, removing the bay leaves first. Top with the reserved onions and a spoonful of yogurt to stir in as you eat, accompanying with the roasted squash lids.

Soba Noodle Soup with Duck Egg and Greens

This started life as a ramen-style soup, but it didn’t take many tries to conclude that getting depth and richness into a vegetarian ramen would take many hours. Cue a change of tack and a light, fresh, but no less pleasing noodle soup, with plenty of interest from pickles and vegetable goodies. Seek out a white or pale yellow miso for this, as anything darker will be too spiky; you need mellow and sweet.

Serves 4

• 4 radishes, trimmed and sliced or quartered

• 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

• Pinch of sea salt

• Pinch of sugar

• 1 sheet dried kombu seaweed (about 2 × 4 inches/5 × 10 cm)

• Handful of fresh shiitake mushrooms, stalks separated, caps sliced

• 1 leek, washed and sliced

• 7 ounces (200 g) soba noodles

• 2 duck eggs

• ¾ cup (75 g) bean sprouts

• Large handful of seasonal greens, such as radish tops, kale, chard or spinach

• 1 to 2 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste

• 1 to 2 tablespoons white or pale yellow mirin, or to taste

• 2 to 3 tablespoons white or yellow miso, or to taste

• 2 scallions, finely sliced

Pickle the radishes by tossing them in the vinegar, salt and sugar. Set aside in a cool place for at least 2 hours, or chill for up to 2 weeks.
If you have time, soak the seaweed and the mushroom stalks in 1½ quarts (1.4 L) of water in a large saucepan for 30 minutes. Soaked or not, place the saucepan over low heat and heat through (don’t boil) for 30 minutes to infuse the broth.
Strain the broth to remove the now-soft kombu piece and mushroom stalks, pressing down to extract all the flavor, including any gelatinous liquid clinging to the seaweed. Return the broth to the pan, adding the mushroom caps and the leek. Bring to a boil slowly, then cover and reduce the heat to simmer for anything from 20 minutes to 4 hours, depending on how savory and concentrated you want the broth to be and how much time you have.
While the broth simmers, cook the extras: In a separate pan, boil the soba noodles according to the package instructions. Drain and set aside. Use the same pan to simmer the duck eggs in plenty of boiling water for 9 to 10 minutes. Refresh under cool water and peel when cool enough to handle. Again, refill the pan with water and return to a boil. Blanch the bean sprouts for 30 seconds. Refresh under cool water and drain.
Add the greens to the simmering broth and let wilt for a minute. Season with the soy sauce, mirin and enough miso to cloud the broth. Taste and adjust as required. Add the noodles and warm through. Divide the soup between warmed bowls. Top each with scallions, a halved duck egg, blanched bean sprouts and a few slices of pickled radish for a bit of poke.

Winter Cabbage Rolls

Iron-rich cabbage leaves stuffed with a spiced leek, parsnip and red lentil mixture, rolled up and cloaked in a rich tomato sauce . . . not your average gratin, perhaps, but it really works. Less conventional still is the topping of crumbled feta, pistachios and dates. You could leave this out to keep costs down, but it adds so much to the flavor and texture that I highly recommend stretching to it, if you can.

Serves 4

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter or ghee

• 1 large red onion, finely chopped

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1- to 1½-inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) piece fresh ginger root, peeled and finely grated

• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric

• Fat pinch of chile flakes

• 2¼ cups (500 g) passata (tomato purée), sieved

• 2 leeks, washed and finely sliced

• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

• 2 medium parsnips (11 ounces/320 g in total), grated

• 1 cup (200 g) red lentils

• 1 teaspoon garam masala

• 2¾ cups (650 ml) strong vegetable stock

• 12 large sweetheart (pointed or hispi) cabbage or other green leaves

• Small handful of cilantro, roughly chopped

• Squeeze of lemon juice

• Flavorless oil, for the dish

• ⅔ cup (100 g) crumbled feta

• 3 tablespoons chopped pistachios

• 3 soft dates, pitted and chopped

Have 2 medium saucepans ready. Put the butter, red onion and a pinch of salt in a pan and cook over medium heat, stirring often, for 8 to 10 minutes, until softened. Add the ginger, turmeric and chile flakes and cook for a further minute. Now transfer half of this mixture to the second pan and add the passata. Simmer very gently for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Go back to the first pan. Keeping it over medium heat, add the leeks and cumin seeds to the remaining onion mixture, stirring for 5 minutes until softened. Stir in the parsnips, lentils and garam masala, followed by the stock. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to simmer gently for 25 minutes, stirring now and then, until the lentils are just cooked and the mixture is thick. (Boil down, uncovered, for a minute if any visible liquid remains on the base of the pan.) Remove from the heat and season generously with salt and pepper.
Blanch the green leaves in plenty of boiling water for about 1 minute, drain in a colander and refresh under cool tap water, then pat dry.
Preheat the broiler to medium. Stir most of the cilantro and the lemon juice into the lentils. Taste. Season, or add lemon to brighten, if needed.
Oil a medium gratin dish (about 12 × 8-inch/30 × 20 cm is ideal). Lay a greens leaf out on a chopping board. Place 1 heaping tablespoon of lentil mixture on the base and roll up to form a sealed cylinder, folding over both sides to close. Sit in the dish, seam side down, and repeat with the remaining leaves and filling. Pour the tomato sauce over and slide under the broiler for 10 minutes.
Combine the feta, pistachios, dates and remaining cilantro, seasoning well with black pepper. Scatter this mixture over the gratin as soon as it emerges from the broiler and let it sit for 5 minutes before serving, so the cheese can melt and the mixture can settle. Even better the next day, baked in a moderate oven until piping hot.

Northern-Style Pho

The very idea of vegetarian pho might ruffle the aficionado’s feathers. . . . Obviously, this incarnation of the famous noodle soup is made without bones, but it has resonance. Why northern-style? Because I find that they are less sweet and noticeably spiced. Of course, you can offer the whole gamut of herbs, bean sprouts and even hoisin sauce alongside, as you find in summery Saigon-style interpretations.

Serves 4

• 2 parsnips

• 2 large carrots

• 2 celery stalks

• 2 sweet white onions

• 4 cups (300 g) shiitake or field mushrooms

• 2 tablespoons peanut oil

• 1 teaspoon palm sugar or brown sugar

• 4 unpeeled garlic cloves

• 1 red chile

• 1- to 1½-inch (2.5 to 4 cm) piece fresh ginger root

• 2 tablespoons light soy sauce

• 1 star anise

• 1 small cinnamon stick

• 1 clove

• 6 white peppercorns

• Handful of cilantro with stalks

• 5 scallions, sliced

• 7 ounces (200 g) dried flat rice noodles

• Sea salt

• 1 cup (100 g) bean sprouts

• Chile or Sriracha sauce, to serve

• Lime wedges

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Thickly slice the parsnips, carrots, celery, 1 of the sweet onions and half the mushrooms. In a large roasting pan, toss them with the oil, sugar, garlic and chile, spreading out in 1 layer (use 2 pans if there isn’t enough room; they must roast, not steam). Roast for 50 minutes, stirring twice, until sticky and soft, but not burned.
Meanwhile, halve the remaining onion. Slice half paper-thin with a mandoline or very sharp knife. Cover with water in a bowl and set aside. Preheat the broiler to high, or turn a gas burner to high. Either broil the piece of ginger root and onion half, turning every minute until smoking and blackened in places, or spear both with large forks and hold directly over a gas flame until lightly charred all over. This will add a smoky depth.
Get a large saucepan or stockpot ready. Fill it with 7½ cups (1.8 L) of water. Add all the roasted vegetables, the charred ginger and onion, soy sauce and whole spices. Cut the stalks from the cilantro and add these, with the roots if present. Bring to a boil, partially cover and reduce the heat to simmer for 45 minutes, until the broth is reduced by one quarter. Carefully strain it through a sieve into a large bowl, pressing down on the vegetables to get every last drop out of them. Empty the pan and return the strained broth to it with the remaining sliced mushrooms and the scallions. Return to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Taste and reduce a little more if it tastes too weak (remembering it isn’t seasoned yet).
When the broth is done, soak the noodles in plenty of just-boiled water for 8 minutes, then drain. They should be barely cooked. Taste the broth again and add salt to bring the flavors alive. Divide the noodles, drained onion slices and bean sprouts between 4 wide, warmed serving bowls, stir the cilantro leaves into the broth and ladle over the noodles. Serve with chile sauce and lime wedges for seasoning at the table.

Chickpea Crepes with Wild Garlic

Chickpea crepes are common in Italian cuisine and I wonder that we don’t eat more of them. This is a cheap recipe for late spring, when there is a glut of asparagus and wild garlic. (Please don’t pay good money for an abundant, free herb. Substitute basil, watercress or arugula, or a combination, instead.) Make it cheaper by subbing chicken eggs for duck, or leave the eggs and cheese out for a vegan meal.

Serves 4

• 1 cup (100 g) chickpea (gram) flour

• 2 wild garlic leaves, shredded, plus 2 handfuls (about 2 ounces/60 g) wild garlic leaves and stems, washed and roughly chopped

• 1 teaspoon fine salt

• 2 tablespoons hulled hemp seeds, or chopped almonds

• ¼ cup (25 g) finely grated vegetarian Parmesan cheese, optional

• ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 ml) extra virgin olive oil, plus more to cover if needed

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• Olive oil

• 4 duck eggs

• Bunch of young or wild asparagus, woody ends snapped off

Put the chickpea flour in a large mixing bowl and gradually whisk in ⅔ cup plus or minus a few tablespoons (150 to 160 ml) of water to form a smooth batter with the consistency of light cream. Stir in the shredded garlic leaves and fine salt. Set aside at room temperature for 1 to 4 hours (or 30 minutes, in a pinch).
Meanwhile, make the wild garlic pesto. Using a mortar and pestle, or the small bowl of a food processor, pound or blend the hemp seeds with the remaining wild garlic and the cheese, if using. Gradually pound or blend in the extra virgin olive oil to form a rustic pesto, season to taste and brighten with lemon juice. If you’re not using the pesto in this recipe, or are making it for something else in advance, cover with a film of extra virgin olive oil and chill for up to 4 days.
When ready to cook, wipe the surface of a large cast-iron or nonstick frying pan with paper towels dipped in regular olive oil and place over very high heat until smoking. Reduce the heat to medium-high. Spoon a ladleful of the batter into the pan, swirling gently to encourage it to spread into an even circle. Cook it for 10 seconds, then flip it over with a spatula and cook on the other side. Remove to a plate, keep warm, and repeat to make 4 crepes. You may have a little batter left if you didn’t need to practice on a first, throwaway crepe to get the technique right.
In a separate pan, gently fry the duck eggs, 2 at a time, in 1 tablespoon or so of regular olive oil, until the whites are set and the lacy edges are golden. Give them room so they stay separate, and spoon a little hot oil over them as they cook. Drain on paper towels and keep warm. Steam the asparagus for 3 to 4 minutes, depending on thickness, until just tender.
To serve, lay one quarter of the asparagus and a fried egg on each crepe. Season, then top with a good spoonful of wild garlic pesto, fold the edges over and eat hot.

Spiced Paneer for Spring in Semolina Dosas

Store-bought paneer, a mild and low-fat Indian cheese, is good value, but can be bland. These subtly spiced dosas, with their spring-like filling of curried peas and pea shoots, will perk it up no end. You can use 7 ounces (200 g) of canned chopped tomatoes instead of the fresh and omit the fragrant, fresh curry leaves if you can’t find them. Be careful while the paneer fries, as the moisture in the cheese can spit.

Serves 4

For the dosas

• ⅓ cup (50 g) fine semolina flour or cornmeal

• ⅓ cup (50 g) rice flour

• 3 tablespoons spelt flour

• 2 green chiles, deseeded and chopped

• ½ small onion, finely chopped

• 1-inch (3 cm) piece fresh ginger root, peeled and finely chopped

• 8 fresh curry leaves, chopped

• Generous pinch of sea salt

For the paneer curry

• 3 tablespoons peanut oil, plus more for the dosas

• 10.5 ounces (300 g) paneer, cubed

• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

• 1¼ cups (200 g) chopped tomatoes

• 1- to 1½-inch (2.5 to 4 cm) piece fresh ginger root, peeled and finely grated

• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric

• Sea salt

• 1¾ cups (250 g) peas, defrosted if frozen

• Handful of cilantro, roughly chopped

• Pea shoots, to serve

Mix the flours in a bowl with half the chile, the onion, ginger, curry leaves and salt. Gradually whisk in 1 cup (220 ml) of water; the consistency should be a bit thicker than milk. Pour into a container and set aside for 30 minutes.
Make the curry. Put the 3 tablespoons of oil in a wok or large frying pan set over high heat. Gently add the paneer and fry for 2 minutes, turning often, until the cubes turn a pale, golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
Pour most of the oil away, leaving about 1 tablespoon in the pan. Reduce the heat to medium and add the cumin seeds. When they become fragrant, stir in the tomatoes, ginger, remaining chopped chile, turmeric and a generous pinch of salt. Stir well and allow to cook for a minute, then return the paneer cubes to the pan with ½ cup (100 ml) water. Bring to a boil, partially cover with a lid, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the peas and cilantro, adding a splash of water if the mixture looks dry, and cook for a couple more minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside while you cook the dosas.
For the dosas, place a large nonstick frying pan over high heat and wipe it with a piece of paper towel generously dipped in peanut oil. Pour 1 medium ladleful of the batter into the hot pan, from the edges toward the center, swirling quickly to make a very thin lacy crepe. Sprinkle a few drops of oil over. Cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until the base is golden or crisp. Flip over and cook for a further 30 seconds or so. When both sides are lightly colored, remove the dosa to a plate. Prepare all the dosas this way, stacking them up on the plate separated by sheets of parchment paper. Cover the plate with foil and keep warm in a low oven.
Rewarm the paneer curry and serve, wrapped in the dosas with handfuls of pea shoots.

Dill, Carrot and Chickpea Curry with Beet Raita

An unusual, fragrant, dry-style curry, making full use of dill’s affinity with chickpeas and sweet carrots. Use any mild oil in place of coconut butter if you don’t have the latter or don’t like its mild, coconut taste (in which case, you might want to swap the coconut cream in the bright purple raita for more yogurt and leave out the desiccated coconut). Rather not buy a single beet? Substitute a small carrot instead.

Serves 4

For the raita

• 1 small beet, scrubbed

• ¼ cup (60 g) plain yogurt

• 3 tablespoons coconut cream

• 3 tablespoons desiccated coconut

• 2 tablespoons lime juice

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the curry

• 1 teaspoon coriander seeds

• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

• 2 tablespoons coconut oil

• 1 red onion, chopped

• 2⅓ cups (300 g) sliced carrots (cut into chubby matchsticks)

• 1 teaspoon hot chili powder

• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric

• 2 garlic cloves, crushed

• 1-inch (2.5 cm) piece fresh ginger root, peeled and finely grated

• 2 vine tomatoes, chopped

• 2 bunches of dill, finely chopped

• One 15-ounce (400 g) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

• Steamed rice or flatbreads, to serve

Start by making the raita. Coarsely grate the beet into a bowl, skin and all. Stir through the yogurt, coconut cream and desiccated coconut. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the lime juice and season well with salt and pepper. Cover and chill until needed.
Toast the coriander and cumin seeds in a small frying pan set over medium heat, stirring them often for about a minute, until fragrant and toasted. Crush with a mortar and pestle.
Melt the coconut oil in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook the onion, stirring often, for about 7 minutes. Stir in the carrots and cook for 5 minutes more, until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the chili powder with the toasted spices, turmeric, garlic and ginger, stirring and cooking for 2 minutes or so. Stir in the tomatoes, increase the heat by a notch and sauté for 5 minutes, until the tomatoes begin to break down.
Add the dill, chickpeas, ¼ cup (60 ml) water and a generous pinch of salt. Simmer, stirring now and then, for 6 to 8 minutes, until the dill is completely soft and the carrots are tender. Stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of lime juice off the heat. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Serve with rice or flatbreads, spooning on the raita as you eat.

Mechouia

If you can, cook the veggies for this Tunisian-style salad—a spiced ratatouille of sorts—on a grill. Once charred and soft, roughly chop them. It is a frugal dish if made at the end of summer. You can eat it with quartered hard-boiled eggs and steamed couscous if you want to be more traditional. Or continue the rebellion by serving it with griddled halloumi slices or baked feta.

Serves 4

• 3 large sweet peppers (red, yellow or orange)

• 2 red chiles, 1 halved and deseeded, 1 finely sliced

• Olive oil

• 1 small eggplant

• 2 green zucchini, plus 1 yellow zucchini (ideally)

• 1 red onion, thickly sliced

• 7 ounces (200 g) baby plum tomatoes

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 teaspoons coriander seeds

• 1½ teaspoons caraway seeds

• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

• ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon (75 ml) extra virgin olive oil

• 1 fat garlic clove, finely chopped

• Finely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon

• 1 teaspoon sweet paprika

• Large handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).
Halve the peppers, removing their stalks and seeds. Arrange in a single layer, skin side up, in a large roasting pan with the halved chile tucked under a pepper half. Drizzle with a little regular olive oil, slide into the top of the oven and roast for about 30 minutes, until highly colored and soft.
Destalk, trim and roughly chop the eggplant and zucchini and transfer into a second large roasting pan with the red onion and tomatoes. Toss with enough oil to coat lightly and season well with salt and pepper. The vegetables should have room to breathe rather than sitting on top of each other. Slide into the center of the oven to roast under the peppers. After 25 to 30 minutes they will be soft, burnished and sweet. Cover loosely with foil and set aside.
Retrieve the chile halves from the pepper pan and finely chop. Transfer the roasted peppers into a bowl and sit the now-empty roasting pan on top. Set aside for 10 minutes to steam before skinning the peppers and slicing finely with a knife (wear rubber gloves if you can’t wait for them to cool first!).
Meanwhile, put the coriander, caraway and cumin seeds in a frying pan and toast over medium heat for about a minute, until fragrant and lightly toasted. Transfer into a mortar and crush lightly with the pestle. Return the pan to low heat with the extra virgin olive oil and the garlic. Cook extremely gently for 5 minutes, infusing the oil rather than browning the garlic. Add the chopped red chile, crushed spices, lemon zest and paprika. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice, parsley and seasoning to taste.
Put all the roasted veggies in a warmed serving dish and douse with the dressing.

Roasted Carrot, Chickpea and Pomegranate Salad

You can find, or make, sweet-sharp pomegranate molasses without spending much. Firstly, buy it in Middle Eastern and Asian shops for far less than the supermarket or deli price; a bottle lasts for an age in a cool pantry. Secondly, substitute date syrup with a squeeze of lemon juice. In a pinch, juice the remaining pomegranate half, simmering it down with brown sugar until thick and syrupy.

Serves 4 to 6

• 1¼ cups (250 g) wheat berries

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 bunches of baby carrots, reserving the leafy tops (or use some parsley or chervil if you don’t have the tops)

• 1 tablespoon coriander seeds

• Olive oil

• One 15-ounce (400 g) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

• 1 tablespoon cumin seeds

• 2 garlic cloves, skins on

• ⅔ cup (100 g) walnut halves

• ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon (75 ml) extra virgin olive oil

• 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses, or to taste

• Squeeze of lemon juice

• ½ pomegranate, seeds only

• Large handful of arugula leaves

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
Put the wheat berries in a large saucepan with a generous pinch of salt, cover with cool water and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, partially cover and leave to cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until the grains are just tender (they should still be chewy). Drain and set aside.
On a large baking sheet, toss the carrots with the coriander seeds and a generous drizzle of regular olive oil. Season with salt and pepper, spread out well and roast for about 40 minutes, until browned and soft. On a second baking sheet, toss the chickpeas, cumin seeds and garlic cloves with another generous drizzle of regular oil, season, spread out and roast, alongside the carrots, for 25 to 30 minutes, until the chickpeas turn golden and the garlic softens.
Toast the walnuts in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes, until they turn a couple of shades darker.
To make the dressing, crush the roasted garlic cloves from the chickpea tray with the back of a knife, discarding the skins. Put in a bowl and stir in the extra virgin olive oil, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice and seasoning to taste. Chop or crush half the walnuts quite finely and stir these in, too.
Chop about 2 tablespoons of the reserved green carrot tops and toss with the wheat berries, roasted carrots, roasted chickpeas, pomegranate seeds, arugula and half the dressing. Transfer to a platter, spoon the remaining dressing over and scatter with the remaining toasted walnuts.

Chipotle Scotch Eggs with Smoky Tomato Dip

A baked, seed-coated and bean-based picnic egg. Or leave out any suggestion of egg to make the bean mixture into vegan burger patties. Take your time to crush the lima beans and chickpeas properly; they don’t need to be smooth but should be smashed roughly for the mix to hold together. Chipotle chile, a favorite stalwart, adds depth, spice and sweet smoke to both bean coating and tomato dip.

Makes 4

• 6 medium eggs

• 1 teaspoon hot smoked paprika

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• ⅔ cup (100 g) mixed seeds (flax, pumpkin, sesame, sunflower seeds . . . )

• 1 large red onion, finely chopped

• 1 tablespoon sunflower oil, plus more for the pan

• One 14.5-ounce (400 g) can chopped tomatoes

• 4 teaspoons chipotle paste (or 1 large chipotle chile in adobo, finely chopped)

• Pinch of brown sugar

• Two 15-ounce (400 g) cans lima beans, drained and rinsed

• One 15-ounce (400 g) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

• Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon

• Small handful of cilantro, chopped, plus more to serve

Put 4 of the eggs in a small saucepan, cover with cool water and bring to a boil. From the moment the water boils, set the timer and simmer gently for 4½ minutes. Drain, gently crack the shells once and refresh under running water until cool enough to peel completely. Dry the peeled eggs with paper towels and dust with the paprika.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Crack the remaining 2 eggs into a shallow bowl, season with salt and pepper and beat lightly to combine. Empty the mixed seeds into a second shallow bowl. Set aside.
Gently fry the chopped red onion in the oil for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until very soft and turning brown. Transfer half into a bowl, keeping the rest in the pan. Stir the chopped tomatoes, 2 teaspoons of the chipotle paste and the sugar into the remaining chopped onion in the pan. Simmer over medium-high heat for 15 minutes, stirring often, until reduced and thick.
Meanwhile, add the lima beans and chickpeas to the cooked onion in the bowl and crush with a potato masher, taking care to crush every legume to make a textured mash. Stir in the lemon zest, remaining chipotle paste, cilantro and seasoning to taste, then stir in 1 tablespoon of the beaten egg to help the mixture bind. Mix thoroughly, mashing the mixture together. Pat the surface down and make a cross in the top to divide it into 4 even portions. Taking one quarter at a time, flatten the mixture in your hand, bringing the sides up to form a cup. Put a paprika-dusted egg in the center and seal the mixture to evenly and snugly enclose it with no air gaps. Repeat with the remaining bean mixture and boiled eggs.
Line a roasting pan with parchment paper and oil the paper lightly. Roll each sphere in beaten egg to coat lightly, then into the mixed seeds. Space them out in the pan and bake for 45 minutes, until golden. Rest for 10 minutes, then carefully remove from the pan with a spatula. Serve warm or cool, with the smoky tomato dip and more cilantro scattered over.

Miso-Orange Tofu Salad

Salads are normally pricey things to make, especially once you start adding nuts or herbs. This salad relies on a good pantry, a generous amount of tofu in a miso-orange glaze and plenty of crunchy vegetables. You might want to steam some rice to serve, or toss noodles through the mixture. If you have any in the fridge, a handful of cilantro or mint is lovely stirred through this.

Serves 2

• 1- to 1½-inch (2.5 to 4 cm) piece fresh ginger root

• 2½ cups (250 g) finely shredded Japanese, napa or white cabbage

• 1 carrot, shredded or grated

• 1 parsnip, shredded or grated

• 2 large oranges

• 2 tablespoons honey

• 2 tablespoons light soy sauce

• 1 tablespoon miso paste (a pale and mellow one)

• Pinch of chile flakes

• 2 tablespoons sesame seeds

• 2 tablespoons peanut oil

• 7 ounces (200 g) firm tofu, drained and cubed

• 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

• 1 tablespoon rice wine or white wine vinegar

• 4 scallions, sliced

Peel the ginger and slice it into fine matchsticks, or coarsely grate.
Put the shredded cabbage, carrot and parsnip in a large bowl and cover with ice-cold water. Add a handful of ice if you have any, then set aside for 20 minutes to crisp up.
Pare the zest and pith from 1 of the oranges with a sharp knife and cut the flesh into discs. Sweep any juice on the chopping board into a container. Halve the other orange, juice it and add to the container. Whisk in the honey, soy sauce, miso paste, chile flakes and ginger.
Put the sesame seeds in a large wok or frying pan and toast over medium heat until golden. Transfer out on to a plate, then return the pan to high heat and add the oil. Pat the tofu cubes with paper towels to dry them and fry in the pan until brown on all sides. Remove to the sesame seed plate and return the pan to the heat. Pour in all but 2 tablespoons of the orange juice mixture, giving it a good stir first. Bring to a rolling boil, reduce the heat a notch and slowly reduce the liquid for 15 minutes, until it forms a sticky glaze. Return the tofu and sesame seeds to the pan, turning carefully to coat all over and warm through.
Drain the cabbage and root vegetables very thoroughly, then toss with the orange slices, toasted sesame oil, rice vinegar and reserved orange juice mixture. Divide between 4 bowls and top with the sticky tofu and sesame seeds. Finish with the sliced scallions.

Cheddar Quesadillas with Kale and Black Beans

Cooking on a budget can include lots of fresh vegetables if you keep them unassuming and shop in season . . . hence this colorful and unabashedly inauthentic supper will be cheap to make in autumn, when sweet corn is plentiful and kale and cabbage are coming into their own. Hopefully, cilantro, chile and a fresh lime or two are permissible extras, though the first two could be left out in a pinch. This recipe is easily doubled.

Serves 2

• 1 tablespoon sunflower oil

• 1 small red onion, chopped

• 2 garlic cloves, crushed

• One 15-ounce (400 g) can black beans, with their liquid

• 1 teaspoon chipotle paste, optional

• 2 limes, juice of 1½, remaining half cut into wedges

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 cup (150 g) sweet corn kernels (1 large ear)

• ¼ red cabbage, shredded

• 1 red chile, deseeded and finely chopped

• Handful of cilantro, roughly chopped

• 8 small (4-inch/10 cm) corn tortillas

• ¾ cup (75 g) grated aged cheddar cheese

• Small handful of young kale leaves, finely shredded

• Hot sauce and sour cream, to serve

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the onion. Cook for about 8 minutes, stirring often, until softened and golden. Stir in the garlic and fry for 2 minutes more. Add the beans and their liquid with the chipotle paste, if using. Cook gently for 4 to 5 minutes, until the beans have softened further. Remove from the heat and crush the beans with a potato masher to make a rough purée, seasoning to taste with lime juice, salt and pepper.
Put your largest frying pan over very high heat. Once smoking hot, add the corn kernels, spreading them out in a single layer. Cook for a few minutes, stirring only occasionally, until well charred in places. Watch out for popping corn! Transfer into a bowl and toss with the cabbage, chile and cilantro. Add lime juice and seasoning to taste. Set aside.
Place the rinsed-out frying pan over medium-low heat. Once dry, add 2 to 4 tortillas, depending on the size of your pan, and toast until lightly golden on one side. Flip and cover the new top of each with a scant layer of grated cheddar, a spoonful of beans, a layer of shredded kale and a final layer of cheddar. Cook for 2 minutes, or until the base layer of cheese begins to melt. Lay a second tortilla on top of each stack, pressing down gently. Carefully flip each quesadilla over with a spatula and continue to cook for 2 minutes or so, until the new base tortilla is crisp and the cheese melted. If your pan would only hold 2 tortillas at once, repeat the process to make 4 quesadillas in all, keeping the cooked portions warm.
Slice each little quesadilla in half and serve with the remaining black beans (there will be a good two spoonfuls leftover), the sweet corn salsa, lime wedges, hot sauce and sour cream.

Cauliflower and Barley Cheese

Whole, roasted cauliflowers sit in a sharp sauce, singing with cheddar and rich in crème fraîche. Barley grains (or spelt, if that’s what you have) are stirred through before the final bake, adding bolster and texture. Diet food this most certainly isn’t, but then this is a cookbook, not a diet book, and sometimes a cold day demands something rich. A crisp salad of bitter leaves or steamed winter greens both work well alongside, if this is to be a main course dish.

Serves 4 as a main course, or 6 to 8 as a side dish

• ½ cup (100 g) pearl barley or spelt

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 4 small cauliflowers of any color, trimmed

• Olive oil

• 1 banana shallot or large shallot, finely chopped

• 3 tablespoons dry white wine

• 2½ cups (250 g) grated aged or extra sharp cheddar cheese

• 1⅔ cups (150 g) crème fraîche

• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• Handful of stale bread crumbs

• Small handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped, optional

Cook the barley in a saucepan over medium heat with enough water to cover generously and a pinch of salt, allowing the grains to simmer for 20 minutes, or until tender. Drain well and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Cut a deep cross in the base of each cauliflower and make sure they sit flat. Toss them in a generous amount of oil to coat and place in an ovenproof dish (they should fit quite snugly as the sauce needs to collect around them later on). Cover loosely with foil and roast for 30 to 35 minutes, until tender to the point of a knife.
To make the sauce, heat a splash of olive oil in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat, add the shallot and cook for 5 minutes or so, until translucent and softened. Add the wine and bubble down until only about 1 tablespoon remains. Reduce the heat to its lowest setting and add the cheddar, crème fraîche and mustard. Stir constantly until the cheese melts to a smooth sauce. Stir in the drained barley and season to taste; it is a very strong sauce so it shouldn’t need much salt, if any.
Spoon the sauce over and around the cauliflower, concentrating the grains in the base of the dish where they won’t catch. Moisten the bread crumbs with a drizzle more olive oil to scatter over the top. Return to the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until browned and bubbling. Throw the chopped parsley on before serving, if you like.