Introduction

Barcelona is an enchanting city. With its historic museums, stylish galleries, medieval churches and secret squares, it is a very rewarding place to explore, and there are wonderful discoveries to be made around every corner. However, Barcelona is the fourth most popular tourist destination in Europe and in many ways has become a victim of its own success. So many people flock here to see the ancient Barri Gòtic and Gaudí’s Modernista architecture that it can be hard to find peaceful places off the beaten track, and it can often be difficult to get away from the noise of the traffic and the crowds. Nevertheless there are many tempting, tranquil places to be found here, from the rugged concrete bunkers that sit high above the city (see here) to the serene cloisters in the ancient Pedralbes Monastery (see here) and the bucolic Parc de les Aigües.

Barcelona became a world city largely through its maritime industry, which opened it up to entrepreneurs and collectors who in turn promoted art and culture. Funds from the catch and sale of fish led to the installation of street lighting in the Barceloneta district, making it easier for ships to locate the city on their return, and also enabled the construction of the Torre del Rellotge church tower in 1772. The Poblenou district’s prestigious fishing history (boats have been setting sail from the port since the 14th century) is celebrated in the church of Santa del Maria Mar, where you’ll find a model of a medieval ship on the altar.

This thriving industry ensured Barcelona soon emerged as a bustling metropolis of commerce and culture, and the city now boasts an extraordinary number of museums and cultural centres dedicated to its documentation – enough to ensure that not all of them are crowded, especially if you venture away from the main tourist routes. Many of the archeological sites that hint at the city’s Roman origins (see Plaça del Rei, for example) are also open to the public thanks to MUHBA (Museu d’Història de Barcelona). The council-funded organisation has been committed to preserving, documenting and studying the city’s history since 1943.

The Acadèmia Sant Jordi is particularly special, one of just two in Catalunya that have kept their original 19th-century art museum structures. Here you’ll find high, sweeping ceilings and walls entirely covered in artworks; diffused lighting falling on the colourful paintwork makes these rooms look like artworks in themselves. Even the Fundació Antoni Tàpies, a 19th-century industrial building converted into a permanent homage to the Spanish master, is usually empty and peaceful. Of course, Barcelona’s art and culture scene continues to flourish, as can be seen in the numerous galleries scattered about the city that showcase the very best in both international and Catalan modern art. The prestigious Sala Parés gallery has exhibited industry greats from Picasso to Francesco Goya, while the Nogueras Blanchard gallery works with conceptual artists to initiate some truly groundbreaking projects.

The commercial side of Barcelona’s history can also be found in the centenary shops of the gothic quarter. These old-fashioned botigues (boutiques) have been around for over 100 years and continue to trade today, thanks to their high-quality products and consistently courteous service. Around 32 of these shops remain, and each of them specialises in one particular product – one of the best things to do in the city is wander through the twisting lanes of this district to seek them out. Cereria Subira continues to produce its own hand-dipped and moulded candles, while the quaint Arc Iris in Passeig de Gràcia sells corsets and brassieres. Another highlight is Sombrerería Obach, a specialist hat and cap shop. The current owner’s great-grandfather bought the shop many decades ago and his original fixtures and fittings are still here. With its ticking clock, carved mirrors and wooden cupboards, it’s a charming spot to try on a barretina – the traditional Barcelona headgear. If you happen to be a sports fan, you can also get a red and yellow football cap here. As well as being picturesque heritage establishments sporting curved brass door handles and polished wood counters, these shops are also very useful, practical stores where you can purchase everything from garden shears to stationery. La Casa de Les Sabatilles is a lovely shop that sells only Spanish-made espadrilles. Try a satin lace pair tied with delicate ankle ribbons or a simple leather sandal. Piled high with shoe boxes, this is a place to treasure.

Perhaps one of the greatest aspects of this popular holiday destination, however – particularly when it comes to seeking peace and quiet – is its climate. Barcelona is an outdoor city, and boasts a huge number of parks, gardens and green spaces. Those in the centre can often get crowded, but slightly further afield lie some exceptionally calm, open spaces. The Botanic Garden (see here) takes visitors on a tour of Mediterranean climates around the world and the species of plants that live there, while you can lose yourself in an 18th-century topiary maze at the Parc del Laberint d’Horta. Parc de l’Oreneta is also an ideal spot for a picnic with spectacular views. Stunning vistas are not in short supply here – Barcelona is bordered by the rolling hills of the Parc Natural de la Serra de Collserola, which offer a whole new perspective on the city and the Mediterranean Sea below. And these views only get better as the sun sets – a climb up Montjuïc Hill in the early evening leads to the garden of the Miramar Hotel where visitors can treat themselves to a refreshing drink overlooking the shimmering pool. Aside from the call of crickets, there’s very little to distract you from gazing at the stars or watching the ships slowly pull into the harbour below.

Of course we can’t speak of Barcelona and not speak of its food. As in many modern cities, finding music-free restaurants isn’t easy, but the wealth of cafes and restaurants populating these streets means you’re sure to find one. Avoid the clamour of La Rambla and head for local favourites such as Casa Amalia next to the Mercat de la Concepio, which serves its delicious, authentic food in unassuming surroundings. In Spain, the midday meal is more important than an evening supper, so don’t be surprised if locals tuck in to what looks like a three-course banquet for lunch. Early evening is in fact one of the quietest times to dine out here. If you’re after a quick afternoon snack, head to one of Barcelona’s famous bodegas (wine cellars) for a slice of jamón ibérico (cured ham) and a glass of cava – Bar Bodega Quimet is one of a few in the middle of town that has managed to retain some of that traditional Catalan atmosphere. Whether meeting up with friends for a drink in the urban surrounds of Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes and Avinguda de Gaudí, or simply seeking a coffee to enjoy while reading your book, you’re sure to find a secret spot of your own if you look hard enough.

Seeking spaces of solitude is at the heart of Quiet Barcelona, and this book hopes to start you on your journey of calm discovery in one of the world’s busiest cities. Explore stylish galleries, ancient shopping quarters, peaceful places of worship and hushed libraries, or strike out on a long, languorous walk and end with a refreshing dip in the sea. There are numerous ways to appreciate Barcelona’s more serene side, and there are many quiet corners to be found in every district of this magnificent, exhilarating city.