A FEW WORDS ABOUT COCKTAILS

Though the Don Drapers and Roger Sterlings of the 1960s carried themselves with an air of worldly sophistication, they were not sophisticated about liquor, according to Robert Hess, co-founder of the Museum of the American Cocktail in New Orleans. Their brand preferences were more apt to be the result of savvy marketing, a notion Don would appreciate, than the nuances of the product. Cocktails in the 1960s tended to be relatively unsophisticated concoctions (faux Polynesian cocktails such as the Mai Tai had many ingredients but weren’t necessarily sophisticated) and, as we often see in the offices of Sterling Cooper, alcohol was often consumed straight out of the bottle into a glass, or “neat.” Just as a restaurant of the 1960s could make a basic steak its claim to fame, its martini might be widely praised simply because it was strong, not because it was well made, according to Hess. People often saw cocktails more as alcohol delivery vehicles than as a cuisine, and mixing drinks more like a trade than an art form. The 1990s brought a cocktail revival and people rediscovered and improved upon the classics such as the Old Fashioned, the martini and the Manhattan by paying attention to the attributes of particular whiskeys and vermouths, for example. As with wine and coffee, the past twenty to thirty years has seen an evolution in the appreciation of the art of mixing a fine cocktail.

Though attitudes about cocktails have evolved significantly since the 1960s, these tips for preparing and serving cocktails gleaned from books and magazines of the period will help kick your Mad Men cocktail party into high gear and remain good, basic advice. There are additional tips on stocking your liquor cabinet on page 113.

GLASSES

• You’re not likely to have each and every type of cocktail glass, but you can make do with a few basics:

• A martini glass (also called a cocktail glass) is the classic “birdbath” glass; an inverted triangular-shaped bowl on a stem.
• An Old Fashioned glass (also known as a rocks glass or lowball glass) is a squat, straight-sided tumbler that typically holds 8 or 10 ounces, and is essential for drinks on the rocks because it allows all of the liquid to come in contact with the ice.
• Highball and Collins glasses are both similar to an Old Fashioned glass, but taller and narrower, with a Collins the taller of the two.
• Sour glasses are tulip-shaped or straight-sided, 4–6 ounce glasses.

• Chill your cocktail glasses before guests arrive. This not only helps chill drinks quickly, it’s classy. And chilling glasses has a psychological impact, too: chilled glasses impart an added sense of refreshment, whether real or perceived. To chill glassware, refrigerate for 30 minutes or freeze for 10. If you don’t have space in your refrigerator, either fill glasses with crushed ice and let stand for 5 minutes, then empty and dry, or fill with ice cubes and add water, let stand for 3–4 minutes, then empty and dry.
• To frost a rim with salt or sugar, rub a wedge of citrus fruit around rim or dip rim in water, juice, or liquor and shake off excess. Dip rim into salt or sugar.

TOOLS

Your well-equipped bar should include the following:

• standard cocktail shaker (three-piece stainless steel set comprising shaker cup, built-in strainer, and cap.)
• mixing glass (any container used for mixing cocktail ingredients)
• tall mixing spoon
• coil-rimmed strainer
• muddler (a wooden tool for mashing cherries and other fruit)
• tongs
• fruit squeezer
• small, sharp knife for slicing fruit
• cocktail toothpicks for fruit, olives, and other garnishes

• swizzle sticks

ICE

• Make plenty of ice cubes in advance. If making punch, chill a block of ice the day before. Nothing puts a damper on a cocktail party more than a lack of ice.
• Before adding liquid, crack the ice cubes: place cubes in a heavy-duty plastic bag and tap gently with a hammer. Cracked ice will chill drinks faster. If you have excess water in the glass after adding the crushed ice, drain before adding other ingredients.
• If a recipe calls for shaved or crushed ice, wait until you are ready to mix to prepare the ice as it melts very quickly.

MIXING

• Mixing drinks by hand in a cocktail shaker or mixing glass is preferable to using a blender because blending with ice tends to add more water and dilutes the drink. Shake ingredients vigorously for 10–15 seconds (any longer and the ice begins to melt, leaving the drinks watery).
• A good cocktail should be neither too strong nor too weak. Follow recipe instructions precisely for best results.
• If several guests are having the same cocktail, make them in a batch rather than individually. They’ll stay cooler longer.
• If the recipe calls for granulated sugar, use superfine granulated sugar and dissolve it with liquid before adding ice. Simple syrup can be used as a sweetener in many cocktails in lieu of sugar, and mixes more easily than sugar as alcohol is not an efficient sugar solvent. You can purchase simple syrup or make it yourself by combining one cup of superfine sugar and one cup of water in a small saucepan. Place over medium heat and stir until boiling, Reduce heat and simmer for 3–4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Let syrup cool to room temperature. Leftover syrup can be spooned into a jar and stored up to three weeks in refrigerator.
• With the exception of a self-serve punch, cocktails should be consumed immediately after they are mixed, before they warm and ingredients settle.