Late 1810
At the end of this period, however, there happened a circumstance, the most fortunate of all to me. In this time of peace, I had nothing in which to employ myself, but objects of recreation and amusement, sometimes with Finau, or other chiefs, and sometimes by myself. Among several amusements, I would frequently go out for two or three days together, among the neighboring small islands, on a fishing excursion. As I was one evening returning homeward in my canoe, after having been out three days, I spied a sail in the westward horizon, just as the sun had descended below it. This heart-cheering sight no sooner caught my attention than I pointed it out to the three men in the canoe with me (my servants that worked on my plantation), and desired them to paddle me on board, holding out to them what an advantageous opportunity now offered itself to enrich themselves with beads, axes, looking-glasses, etc., an opportunity which they might never again meet with. To this they replied, that they had seen her before, but that their fear of my wishing to go on board prevented them from pointing her out to me. They had often heard their chiefs say, that they never meant to let me go if they could help it; and hence they were apprehensive that their brains would be knocked out, if they suffered me to escape. I then condescended to entreat them to pull towards the vessel, promising them very rich rewards. After conversing together, and muttering something between themselves, they told me, that, notwithstanding the esteem and respect they had for me, they owed it as a duty to their chiefs to refuse my request; and, upon this, they began to paddle toward the nearest shore. I instantly demanded, in an elevated tone of voice, why they talked about the fear of chiefs; were they not my servants, and had I not a right to act with them as I pleased? I then took in my hand my musket from behind me, when the man who sat next immediately declared, that, if I made any resistance, he would die in opposing me, rather than allow me to escape. Upon this, I summoned up all my strength, and struck him a most violent blow, or rather stab, near the loins, with the muzzle of the piece, exclaiming at the same time, “Ta ki ho ‘Otua, ko ho mate ia.” (Meaning, “Strike your ‘otua, [God] there’s your death!” A form of energetic expressions, used like oaths, on extraordinary occasions, calculated to express vengeance.)
This lunge produced a dangerous wound, for the musket, being a very old one, had grown quite sharp at the muzzle, and was, besides impelled by the uncommon force with which, inspired by the prospect of escape, I felt myself animated. The man immediately fell flat in the bottom of the canoe, senseless, and scarcely with a groan.
This man, whose name was Teu Fononga [literally, to prepare to walk a long distance] well deserved the fate he met with. He used to beat his wife unmercifully, for which I had frequently knocked him down with a club. He formerly had a wife who, in time of scarcity, he killed and ate. Since that time having several children more than he wished, he killed a couple of them to get them out of the way. His best quality was being an excellent fisherman, and a very hard working fellow.
I instantly pulled his legs out straight. I then presented my musket to the other two, who appeared somewhat panic-struck, and threatened to blow out their brains if they did not instantly obey my orders, and pull towards the vessel. They accordingly put about, and made towards her. The one that I wounded was a warrior, but the other two had never been in battle; and, as I suppose, did not know but what I could fire my musket as often as I pleased without loading it. Be this as it may, they were now perfectly obedient, and I encouraged them farther, by reminding them that they had a good excuse to make to their chiefs, since it was by compulsion, and not by will, that they acted. In the meantime, I kept a strict eye both upon them and the man in the bottom of the canoe; upon those, lest they should take an opportunity to upset the canoe, and swim to the shore, with which they were well acquainted, and upon the man, lest he should recover and attempt the same thing, or else make an unexpected attack. Fortunately he did not stir the whole night. I might add also, that this was the season for sharks, and their consciences, probably, were not quite clear from having infringed some prohibition or another, in consequence of which, according to their notions, they were liable to be devoured by sharks.
We did not come up with the vessel till about daylight next morning, owing to the distance we had to go, for we were about four miles off the north-west part of Vava’u, and the ship bore west-south-west, about five miles distant, steering under easy sail, to the south end of that island. Besides which, we were much fatigued with having pulled about the whole day against a heavy sea, and were short of any provisions, except raw fish. During the whole night, the man in the bottom of the canoe lay perfectly still, and showed no signs of life, except a slight gurgling noise in his throat, which was heard now and then.
As soon as the canoe pulled up along side the brig, I, without stopping to hail, on the impulse of the moment, jumped up into the main chains, and had liked to have been knocked overboard by the sentinel, who took me for a native, for my skin was grown very brown, my hair very long, and tied up in a knot, with a turban round the head, and an apron of the leaves of the si tree round my waist. This disguise would have warranted the conduct of the sentinel, but, as soon as I spoke English, and told him I was an Englishman, he allowed me to come on deck, where I addressed the captain, who cordially shook hands with me. The captain had heard from the captain of a schooner the whole unfortunate affair of the Port au Prince; for the schooner brought away two men from one of these islands during the time that I was in another quarter, upon some business for Finau.
The captain presented me with a pair of trousers and a shirt; the latter, it must be said, was neither very new nor very clean; in consequence, I took the pains to wash it, and hang it up in the rigging to dry. In the morning, however, it had disappeared, at the honest instigation of somebody; hence, my whole stock of apparel consisted of the said pair of trousers; nor did I get better provided till I arrived in China, about seven weeks afterwards.
But to return to the subject: The brig proved to be the Favourite, Captain Fisk, from Port Jackson [Australia], about 130 tons burthen; had on board about ninety tons of mother of pearl shells, procured from the Society Islands. She intended to make up her voyage with sandalwood from the Fiji Islands, and thence to proceed to China.
I requested the captain to give the men in the canoe, which brought me, some beads, as a reward for their trouble, etc., and also an axe as a present for Finau. The captain liberally complied; and the canoe left the ship, with a message from me to the King, requesting him to come on board. As to the wounded man, he was, in all probability, dead; at least the other two seemed to think so by his not stirring, and so took no trouble about him. By this time there were about two hundred small canoes near the vessel, and several large ones, so that the whole people of Vava’u seemed to be assembled to view the brig, for the whole beach was also crowded. As the vessel was very short of provisions, a very brisk traffic was carried on with the natives by the captain and mate, for yams, hogs, etc. Hence orders were given to the crew not to purchase any trinkets, till they had procured plenty of provisions. About the middle of the day Finau came alongside with his sister, and several of her female attendants, bringing off, as a present for me, five large hogs, and forty large yams, each weighing not less than thirty pounds, and some of the largest sixty or seventy pounds. These things I begged leave to transfer to the captain, and presented them accordingly. It is a very common thing among the people of Tonga to transfer a present.
Notwithstanding repeated messages from the chiefs on shore to Finau, requesting him to return, he resolved to sleep on board that night, if the captain would allow him, which he readily did. The women, however, intimated their wish to return, not liking the thought of trusting their persons among a number of strange men. I found it very difficult to remove their scruples, by assuring them that they should not be molested. At length, however, they consented to remain, on my promise to take care of them, and to roll them all up in a sail, in which state they laid the whole night in the steerage; and, as they said, slept comfortably. As to Finau, he was very well contented with sleeping on a sail on the cabin deck. As the weather was remarkably fine, the brig did not come to an anchor, but stood off and on during the whole of the night. At day-light canoes came alongside in great numbers; but from prudent motives, dictated by former disasters, no more than three of the natives were allowed to come on board at a time, six sentinels being kept constantly on deck for that purpose. In the canoes were several chiefs, who came to request Finau to return on shore, as the people were greatly alarmed lest he should form a determination of going to Papalangi (land of white people). They brought off some kava for him, but which he declined drinking, saying that he had tasted some on board (wine) which was far preferable. Indeed, he considered it so much superior, that the thoughts of kava quite disgusted him. He made a hearty dinner at the captain’s table, ate plenty of roast pork, with which he admired very much the flavour of the sage and onions. The fowls he cared very little about, but partook of some made dishes. The ladies also ate very heartily. Finau handled a knife for the first time in his life, with very great dexterity; sometimes, indeed, his majesty forgot himself a little, and laid hold of the meat with his fingers; but, instantly recollecting that he was doing wrong, he would put it down again, exclaiming, “‘Oi! ‘Oua teu ngalo!” (“Eh! I forget myself!”) The natural politeness which he evinced on every occasion charmed the captain and the officers so much, that they could not help acknowledging that it far surpassed any other instance of good manners they had witnessed among the inhabitants of the South Sea islands; and not only in behaviour, but in intelligence, he seemed to excel. His inquiries about the use and application of what he saw were frequent, and indeed troublesome; but then his deportment was so affable, and his manner so truly polite, that nobody could be offended with him. He requested permission to lie down in the captain’s bed, that he might be able to say what none of the people of Vava’u could boast of, that he had been in a Papalangi bed. Permission being readily granted, he lay down, and was delighted with his situation; and said, that being now in an English bed, he could fancy himself in England. Some time after, being left in the cabin by himself, though watched unknown to him, he did not offer to take, or even touch, a single bead, or anything else, excepting the captain’s hat; but which, not choosing to put on without asking leave, he went on deck on purpose to request me to obtain permission of the captain for so great a liberty. So different was he from the generality of these islanders, who, stimulated by curiosity, if not by a less honest motive, would not scruple to take a man’s hat off his head, unbidden, twirl it about, and be very careless about returning it, if not reminded by the owner.
About the middle of the day Finau went on shore to quiet the people, who were becoming very clamorous on account of his long stay. Soon after he returned on board, bringing with him a quantity of cooked victuals, ripe bananas, etc. for the crew; and also a present for the captain, consisting of a valuable spear and club, a large bale of ngatu, a large hog, a hundred small yams and two canoes’ load of coconuts.
So delighted was Finau with everything he saw on board, so high an opinion had he of the character of the Papalangis, and so desirous was he of arriving at those accomplishments which raised them so high above the character of the Tonga people, that he could not help several times expressing his wish to accompany me to England. On the third day, which was the day of the brig’s departure, his importunities on the subject became extremely urgent, so much so, that I could not refrain expressing them to the captain; but who refused (as might be expected) to accede to a wish which seemed to promise no future good to an individual in Finau’s circumstances, arriving, in a strange country, without protection, and without patronage. This was a sore disappointment to him, as it must have been to one who was willing to make such large sacrifices to the accomplishment of his hopes — to one who would have resigned a princely state and dignity, and all the respect paid by obedient subjects to an arbitrary monarch, for the sake of visiting a country, where, as I explained to him, he could expect at best but a very inferior mode of life, comparing it with what he had been accustomed to. But the arguments this gentleman used were all in vain; Finau would not, could not, be divested of his wishes. He thought if he could but learn to read and write, and think like a Papalangi, that a state of poverty, with such high accomplishments, was far superior to regal authority in a state of ignorance.
Seeing, however, that his wish was this time at least destined to be thwarted, he made me solemnly promise, — and before our final separation, made me again repeat that promise, and swear to the fulfilment of it by my father, and by the god who governed me, that I would some time or another return, or endeavor to return, in a large canoe (ship) and take him away with me to England; and in case my subjects should stand averse to such a measure, that I would complete his project by force of arms. I acceded to this promise; and Finau embraced me, and shed tears.
It would be very interesting to know what would be the result of removing an individual of Finau’s disposition and intellectual powers, from the state of society in which he had been brought up, into a civilized country; into a scene so widely different from everything he had been accustomed to, where every circumstance would be new, and every object calculated to draw forth the powers of his natural understanding, to judge of their propriety, absurdity, or excellence. Finau’s intellect, as we shall by and by more clearly see, when I take a survey of his character, was far, very far above the common. There was interwoven in the very texture of his mind a spirit of philosophical inquiry, directed by the best of all motives — the desire of human improvement; not the offspring of common curiosity, but that noble impulse, which goads the mind on in the pursuit of knowledge, at whatever risk, and with whatsoever suffering. But I must leave this subject for the present, to take a further view of the transactions on board.
The captain had a quantity of pearl oyster shells, which are considered by the natives a very beautiful ornament, and very scarce among them, as those which they have are not capable of being so finely polished: these attracted Finau’s fancy, which the captain observing, made him a present of several; but, however, he did not direct his attention to mere matters of ornament. He reflected that he had very few gun-flints on shore; and he ventured, in a very modest manner, to ask the captain for a supply of an article that would be so useful to him in defending his newly established kingdom of Vava’u against the encroachments of the Ha’apai people; and the captain liberally complied with his request. Finau knew the use of a musket exceedingly well, and was a very good shot.
I had on shore, in a concealed place, the journal of the Port au Prince, which I was now desirous of securing. In the early part of my residence at these islands, the late King ordered me to give up my books and papers, which were afterwards burned, as instruments of witchcraft; it happened, however, fortunately, that I had concealed this journal beneath the matting of the house, and thus it escaped the flames. After that period, reflecting what a risk there was of its being discovered, whether I left it there, or carried it about with me, particularly as the times were so unsettled, I confided it to the care of my adopted mother, Mafe Hape, who faithfully kept it in her possession, concealed in the middle of a bale of ngatu; which, along with others, was always conveyed to whatever island or distant place she went to reside at. When she left Vava’u to go and live with her father at the Ha’apai Islands, she gave it up to me; and I concealed it in the middle of a barrel of gunpowder, without the knowledge of anyone else; for although I had at that time considerable power and influence, and a sufficient number of confidential friends, I thought it best to conceal it in a safe place, where no native was likely to find it, and consequently no ridiculous prejudice likely to deprive me of it. To get it again into my possession, I obtained the captain’s consent to detain Finau Fisi (the king’s uncle) on board till the journal was brought to me; and accordingly two natives were dispatched, with directions where to find it. They had orders, at the same time, to bring back with them three Englishmen that were on shore, namely James Waters, Thomas Brown, and Thomas Dawson. In the meanwhile Finau Fisi, on understanding that he was detained a prisoner turned very pale, and was evidently greatly alarmed. Even when I explained to him the cause, he seemed still to think everything was not right; and expressed his apprehension that they were going to take him to England to answer for the crime of the Ha’apai people, in taking the Port au Prince, and murdering the crew. I assured him that his fears were groundless; for, as he was not a party concerned in that sad affair, the English people would never think of punishing the innocent for the guilty,
“True!” he replied, “and you know that I have always befriended you, and that I am not a treacherous character; and that rather than assist in taking a Papalangi ship, I would do all that lay in my power to prevent such an outrage.”
To this I cordially gave my assent, and the chief seemed quite satisfied. His people in the canoes were, however, far from being so. They raised great clamours, and loudly demanded his liberation; and even his own assurances could scarcely remove their apprehensions. Finau Fisi told me that he should have been particularly sorry to have been taken away, when his nephew was just in the infancy of his reign, and might want his counsel and advice, and thus be deprived of the pleasure of seeing him govern prosperously, and making his people happy, which, from his ability and excellent disposition, he had no doubt would be the case.
At length the canoe returned with the journal and the Englishmen. Thomas Waters was not disposed, however, to return to England. He was an old man, and had become infirm, and he reflected that it would be a difficult matter for him to get his bread at home; and as he enjoyed at Vava’u every convenience that he could desire, he chose to end his days there.
Finau’s sister, a girl of about fifteen years of age, went on shore, and brought on board several other women of rank, who were all greatly pleased that they were allowed to come into the ship and satisfy their curiosity. Finau’s sister, who was a very beautiful, lively girl, proposed, in joke, to go to England, and see the white women.
She asked if they would allow her to wear the Tonga dress. “Though perhaps,” she said, “that would not do in such a cold country in the winter season. I don’t know what I should do at that time. Toki tells me that you have hot-houses for plants from warm climates, so I should like to live all winter in a hot-house. Could I bathe there two or three times a day without being seen? I wonder whether I should stand a chance of getting a husband; but my skin is so brown, I suppose none of the young Papalangi men would have me; and it would be a great pity to leave so many handsome young chiefs at Vava’u, and go to England to live a single life. If I were to go to England I would amass a great quantity of beads, and then I should like to return to Tonga, because in England beads are so common that nobody would admire me for wearing them, and I should not have the pleasure of being envied.” She said, laughing, that either the white men must make very kind and good tempered husbands, or else the white women must have very little spirit, for them to live so long together without parting. She thought the custom of having only one wife a very good one, provided the husband loved her; if not, it was a very bad one, because he would tyrannize over her the more, whereas if his attention was divided between five or six, and he did not behave kindly towards them, it would be very easy to deceive him.
These observations, of which I was interpreter, afforded very great amusement. Finau, the late Tu’i Tonga’s son (about 12 years of age), and the females, now commenced dancing and singing, at the request of the captain, which gave the ship’s company much entertainment.
Before the ship’s departure, I was charged with several messages from the chiefs of Vava’u to those of Ha’apai. Among others, Finau sent his strong recommendations to Tupouto’a to be contented with the Ha’apai Islands, and not to think of invading Vava’u; to stay and look to the prosperity of his own dominions, for that was the way to preserve peace and happiness.
“Tell him again,” said he, “that the best way to make a country powerful and strong against all enemies is to cultivate it well, for then the people have something worth fighting for, and will defend it with invincible bravery; I have adopted this plan, and his attempts upon Vava’u will be in vain”
Several warriors sent insulting messages to the Ha’apai people, saying: “We shall be very happy to see them at Vava’u, and will take care to entertain them well, and give them plenty of bearded spears to eat, and besides, we have got some excellent toa wood clubs of which we shall be glad to give them an additional treat! We hope they will come and see us before they shall have worn out the fine Vava’u ngatu of which they took away so much when they visited us last.” (Alluding to their late unsuccessful expedition.)
Hala’api’api had considerable property at the island of Foa, and he sent a message to an old matapule residing there, (who had been a faithful servant of his father,) to gather all his moveable property, consisting of some whale’s teeth and a considerable quantity of Samoan mats, and deposit it in a house of his upon the beach, that he might come some time under cover of the night, and secure it.
Some of the Vava’u warriors proposed a plan, if the captain would lend them the use of the ship, to kill Tupouto’a and his greatest fighting men, in revenge for his murder of their lamented chief, the brave Tupouniua. The plan was for about two hundred of the choicest Vava’u warriors to conceal themselves below on board the Favourite, and when she arrived at the Ha’apai Islands, Tupouto’a and many other considerable chiefs and warriors were to be invited on board, and then the boarding nettings being hauled up that none might escape, at a signal to be given the Vava’u people were to rush on deck and dispatch them all with their clubs. To this, of course, the captain did not consent.
Finau consigned to my care a present for Mafi Hape, consisting of a bale of fine Vava’u ngatu and five or six strings of handsome beads, and also his “‘ofa ta’e-tuku” (love unceasing). His wife also sent her a present of three valuable Samoan mats, with her ‘ofa ta’e-tuku.
The ship now prepared to take her departure from Vava’u, and I to take leave of my Vava’u friends, probably for ever. The King again embraced me in the most affectionate manner, made me repeat my promises to return, if possible, to Tonga, and take him back to England, that he might learn to read books of history, study astronomy, and thus acquire a Papalangi mind. As to the government of Vava’u, he said that might be consigned to the care of his uncle, who would make a good King, for he was a brave man, a wise man, and withal a lover of peace. At this parting, abundance of tears were shed on both sides. Finau returned to his canoe with a heavy heart, and I felt all the sweet bitterness of parting from much loved friends to visit one’s native country. I bade a long adieu to the brave and wise Finau Fisi, to the spirited and heroic Hala’api’api, — natural characters which want of opportunity render scarce, or which are not observable amid the bustle and business of civilized life. The canoe returned to the beach; the ship got under way, and steered her course to the Ha’apai Islands, leaving Vava’u and all her flourishing plantations lessening in the distance.
In taking leave of those with whom we have long resided, and whose ways and habits we have got accustomed to, whose virtues have gained our esteem, and whose kindnesses have won our affections; — in leaving them and the scenes that surround them, never to return, the human heart feels a sad void, which no lapse of time, no occupations, no new friendships seem likely ever to fill up. All their good qualities rush upon the mind in new and lively colors; all their faults appear amiable weaknesses essential to their character. When we lose a friend by death, we compare it, by way of consolation, to a long absence at a long distance; but it is equally just to reverse the comparison, and to say of a separation like this that it is as death, which at one cruel stroke deprives us of many friends!
As I looked towards Vava’u, now fast declining in the horizon, I experienced sentiments which I never before had felt to such a degree. My faithful memory presented a thousand little incidents in rapid succession, which I had never before sufficiently noticed. The late King, though lying in the fa’itoka of his ancestors, was now as much alive to me as his son, or Finau Fisi, or Hala’api’api, or any other friend that I had just parted with. I recollected how often, at his request, I had laid down upon the same mat with him, in the evening, to talk about the King of England; and after a long conversation, when Finau supposed me to be asleep, he would lay his hand gently upon my forehead and say, “Poor Papalangi! What a distance his country is off! Very likely his father and mother are now talking about him, and comforting themselves by saying perhaps tomorrow a ship will arrive and bring our son back to us.”
The next moment all the amiable qualifications of the present King presented themselves to my view, and as I have not yet drawn a character so well worthy to be noticed, I shall now attempt to display it in its true and native colors, trusting that it will afford a considerable share of pleasure to the generality of readers.
Finau, the present King of Vava’u, about twenty-five years of age, was in stature 5 feet 10 inches; well proportioned, athletic, and graceful; his countenance displayed a beautiful expression of openness and sincerity; his features, taking them altogether, were not quite so strongly marked, nor was his forehead quite so high as those of his father, nevertheless they expressed an ample store of intellect. Notwithstanding the benevolent mildness and play of good humor in his countenance, his eye shot forth a penetrating look of inquiry from beneath a prominent brow that seemed to be the seat of intelligence. The lower part of his face was well made; his teeth were very white, his lips seemed ever ready to express something good humored or witty. His whole physiognomy, compared with that of his late father, possessed less dignity, but more benevolence; less chief-like superiority, but more intellect. His whole exterior was calculated to win the esteem of the wise and good, while that of his father was well adapted to command the admiration of the multitude. The character of the father was associated with the sublime and powerful; that of the son with the beautiful and engaging. His language was strong, concise, and expressive, with a voice powerful, deep, and melodious. His eloquence fell short of effect compared with that of his father, but he did not possess the art of dissimulation. The speech which he made on coming into power struck all the matapules with astonishment; they wondered to hear so much eloquence tempered with wisdom, so much modesty combined with firmness, proceed from the lips of so young a man; and they prophesied well of him, — that he would reign in the affections of his people, and have no conspiracies or civil disturbances to fear. His general deportment was engaging; his step firm, manly and graceful. He excelled in all athletic sports, racing, wrestling, boxing, and club-fighting. He was cool and courageous, but a lover of peace. He was fond of mirth and good humor; he was a most graceful dancer; he was passionately delighted with romantic scenery, poetry, and vocal concerts. These last had been set aside, in a great measure, during his father’s warlike reign; but when the son came into power, he revived them, and had bands of professed singers at his house almost every night. He used to say that the song amused men’s minds, and made them accord with each other — caused them to love their country, and to hate conspiracies. (Their songs are mostly descriptive of scenery.) He was of a most humane and benevolent disposition, but far, very far from being weak in this respect, for he was a lover of justice. The people readily referred to him for a decision of their private quarrels, on which occasions he was never thought to have judged rashly; if he could not immediately decide, he adjourned the cause till the next day, and in the meantime took the trouble to inquire further particulars of those who knew more of the matter. If he was severe with anybody, it was with his own servants, for he used to say that his father was too partial to them, by which means they had become assuming, taking upon themselves the character of chiefs, and oppressing others of the lower orders, but now he would make them know their proper places. If they did anything wrong, they trembled in his presence. Nevertheless, the benevolence of his heart was wonderfully expressed in his manners. While he was yet on board the ship, Captain Fisk desired me to tell him that it would be bad policy for him ever to attempt taking a ship, as it would prevent other ships coming to trade with them, or, if they came at all, it might be to punish him and his people for their treachery.
As soon as Finau understood what the captain said, he made a step forward to me, and taking my hand, pressed it cordially between his, saying with tears in his eyes, and a most benevolent and grateful expression of feature, “Tell the chief that I shall always consider the Papalangies as my relations — as my dearest brothers; and rather would I lose my life than take anything from them by force or treachery.” He had learned the action of taking the hand from the Englishmen there, and used to say it was the most friendly and most expressive way of denoting one’s feeling of sincerity.
He had scarcely finished speaking when the captain exclaimed, “I see, I see what he means. You need not translate me that!”
Finau’s intellect was also very extraordinary, that is to say, it was naturally very strong, and was very little obscured by prejudices; we have seen several instances of the wisdom of his conduct, and a few anecdotes will serve to show that his specific reasoning faculty was very far above the common. He had learned the mechanism of a gun-lock by his own pure investigation. One day, on taking off the lock of a pistol to clean it, he was astonished to find it somewhat differently contrived, and a little more complicate than the common lock, which he had thought so clever and perfect that he could not conceive anything better. On seeing this, however, he was somewhat puzzled, at first with the mechanism, and afterwards with its superiority to the common lock, but he would not have it explained to him; it was an interesting puzzle, which he wished to have the pleasure of solving himself. At length he succeeded, and was as pleased as if he had found a treasure; and in the afternoon at kava, he was not contented till he had made all his chiefs and matapules understand it also. He did not know the existence of the pulse till I informed him of it, and made him feel his own, at which he was greatly surprised, and wanted to know how the Papalangies first found it out. He was informed at the same time, that the pulse was influenced by various diseases and passions of the mind; and that in most parts of the world, those whose profession it was to cure diseases often judged of the state of the complaint by the pulse. Upon which he went about to two or three that felt ill to feel their pulses, and was much delighted with the new discovery. A few days afterwards, one of his servants very much offended him by some unwarrantable act, upon which he became violently angry, but on a sudden the thought struck him of the association between the passions and the pulse, and immediately applying his hand to his wrist, he found it beating violently, upon which, turning to me, he said, “You are quite right.” It put him in such good humor that the servant got off with a mild remonstrance, which astonished the fellow very much, as he did not understand the cause, and was sitting trembling from head to foot, in full expectation of a beating.
I explained to him the form and general laws of the solar system; the magnificent idea of the revolutions of the planets, the diurnal revolution of the earth, its rotundity, the doctrine of gravity, the antipodes, the cause of the changes of the seasons, the borrowed light of the moon, the ebb and flow of the tides, etc. These were his frequent themes of discourse, and objects of his fine understanding; they pleased him, astonished him, and filled him with intense desire to know more than I was able to communicate. He lamented the ignorance of the Tonga people; he was amazed at the wisdom of the Papalangies, and he wished to visit them, that he might acquire a mind like theirs. The doctrine of the sun’s central situation and the consequent revolution of the planets he thought so sublime, and so like what he supposed might be the ideas and inventions of a god, that he could not help believing it, although it was not quite clear to his understanding. What he seemed least to comprehend was how it happened that the antipodes did not fall into the sky below (as he expressed it), for he could not free his mind from the notion of absolute up and down: but he said he had no doubt, if he could learn to read and write, and think like a Papalangi, that he should be able to comprehend it as easily as a Papalangi, for, he added, the minds of the Papalangies are as superior to the minds of the Tonga people as iron axes are superior to stone axes! He did not, however, suppose that the minds of white people were essentially superior to the minds of others; but that they were more clear in consequence of habitual reflection and study, and the use of writing, by which a man could leave behind him all that he had learned in his lifetime.
One day as I was sharpening an axe, and Finau was turning the grindstone, Finau observed that the top of the stone was not only always wet, but so replete with water that it was constantly flying off in abundance on the application of the axe; this on a sudden thought puzzled him; it seemed to him strange that the superabundance of water should not run off before it got to the top.
I began his explanation, thus: “In consequence of the quick successive revolutions of the stone …”
When on a sudden Finau eagerly exclaimed (as if a new light had shot across his mind), “Now I understand why the antipodes do not fall off the earth — it is in consequence of the earth’s quick revolution!”
This was a false explanation, and he himself soon saw that it was, much to his disappointment; but it shows the activity of his mind, and how eager it was to seize every idea with avidity that seemed to cast a radiance upon the object of his research.
On another occasion we were returning to Vava’u from the Ha’apai Islands, where the King had been to fetch some of his property, consisting chiefly of things which originally belonged to the officers of the Port au Prince. Among others there was a box containing sundry small articles and a pocket compass; the latter he did not know the use of, and had scarcely yet examined.
During the whole day it was nearly calm, and the paddles were for the most part used. A breeze, however, sprang up after dark, accompanied with a thick mist. Taking it for granted that the wind was in its usual direction; they steered the canoe accordingly, and sailed for about two hours at the rate of seven knots an hour. As we did not reach the shores of Vava’u, the thought now occurred to me that the wind might possibly have changed, and in that case, having no star for a guide, a continuance of our course would be exceedingly perilous. I therefore searched for the compass to judge of our direction, when I was much alarmed to find that the wind had chopped round nearly one quarter of the compass. I mentioned this to the King, but he would not believe that such a trifling instrument could tell which way the wind was; and neither he, nor any other chief on board, was willing to trust their lives to it. If what the compass said was true, we must indeed be running out to sea to an alarming distance; and as night was already set in, and the gale strong, our situation was perilous. Most on board, however, thought that this was a trick of mine to get them out to some distant land, that I might afterwards escape to Papalangi; and even Finau began to doubt my sincerity. Thus I was in an awkward predicament. I was certain they were going wrong, but the difficulty was how to convince them of what was now, in all probability, essential to their existence, for the weather threatened to be bad, and it seemed likely that the night would continue very dark. At length, I pledged my existence for their safety, if they would but follow my advice, and suffer me to direct their course, they should kill me if we did not discover Vava’u, or some of the other islands, by sunrise. This pledge was rather hazardous to me, but it would have been still more so for us all to have continued the course we were then in. They at length consented; the canoe was immediately close hauled, and I directed their steering; the gale luckily remained nearly steady during the night; all on board were in great anxiety during the whole time, and I not the least so among them. In the morning, as soon as the light was sufficiently strong, a man, who was sent up to the mast-head, discovered land, to the great relief of their anxiety; and the rising sun soon enable them to recognize the shores of Vava’u, to their unspeakable joy, and, in particular, to the wonder and amazement of Finau, who did not know how to express his astonishment sufficiently at the extraordinary properties of the compass. How such a little instrument could give information of such vast importance, produced in him a sort of respectful veneration, that amounted to what was little short of idolatry; for finding that I could not explain why it always pointed more or less to the north, he could hardly be persuaded by what it was inspired by an ‘Otua. He was so pleased with this property of the compass, that he almost always carried it about him afterwards, using it much oftener than was necessary, both at sea and on shore, for it always seemed a new thing to him.
It may easily be supposed, that Finau, with such an inquiring mind as he possessed, took delight in everything that afforded him instruction, or satisfied his curiosity; not only in regard to things that were very extraordinary, but those also that were moderately common and useful. He was accustomed, therefore, to visit the houses of canoe-builders and carpenters, that he might learn their respective arts, and he often made very judicious observations. He very frequently went into the country to inspect the plantations, and became a very good agriculturist, setting an example to all the young chiefs, that they might learn what was useful, and employ their time profitably. He used to say, that the best way to enjoy one’s food was to make oneself hungry by attending to the cultivation of it.
There were many individuals at the Tonga Islands besides Finau, that possessed uncommon intellect, as well as good disposition of heart, but none of them seemed endowed with that extraordinary desire of investigation which so strongly characterized the King. Among the most remarkable of these was his uncle, Finau Fisi, and his friend, Hala’api’api. Finau Fisi was venerated for his wisdom; a quality which he derived rather from his great experience, steady temper of mind, and natural solid judgment, than from the light of extraordinary intellectual research. Nevertheless, this diving quality was marked in his countenance; there was something graceful and venerable about his forehead and brow that commanded respect and confidence. He had no quick sparkling look of ardor, nor fire of impetuosity, but his deep-seated eye seemed to speculate deliberately upon objects of importance and utility. His whole physiognomy was overshadowed by a cast of sublime melancholy, but he had been one of the greatest warriors that Tonga ever produced. The islands of Fiji, (whence he derived his name), had been the scenes of his achievements, and the stories recorded of him equalled those of romance; his arm had dispensed death to many a Fiji warrior, whose surviving friends still recollect the terror of his name; but all the warlike propensities of this mighty chieftain seemed now absorbed in a conviction of the vanity and absurdity of useless bloodshed; and nothing seemed now to afford him a greater pleasure, (next to giving counsel to those who asked it), than to play with little children, and to mingle with unwonted cheerfulness in their amusements. Finau Fisi was perhaps about fifty years of age, (No native of Tonga knows his age, for no account of the revolution of years is kept.) and had become rather corpulent. His whole demeanor was not erect, powerful, and commanding, like that of his brother, the late King, but his slow step and steady action showed something of solid worth in his character, that wrought respect in the beholder without any mixture of fear. It has just been said, that Finau Fisi performed most of his warlike feats at the Fiji Islands. The greater part of the time that he was there, Hala’api’api, though a much younger man, (about thirty,) was his constant friend and companion; they always fought near together, and were said to have owed their lives to each other thirty or forty times over. The mutual friendship of these two was very great, although their characters were widely different in many respects.
To form a tolerable idea of Hala’api’api, we must conceive to ourselves a slim yet athletic and active figure, of a middling stature, full of fire and impetuosity; endowed with a mind replete with the most romantic notions of heroic bravery; full of mischief (without malignity), wrought up with the most exuberant generosity. The heat and inconstancy of youth was in him strangely mixed with the steadiness and wisdom of age. No man performed more mischievous tricks than he, at the expense of the lower orders, and yet they all liked him. If any other chief oppressed them, they flew to Hala’api’api for redress, and he always defended their cause as if it was his own, often at the risk of his life; and this he did seemingly from pure motives of pity. He would weep at the distress of which they complained, and the next moment his eyes would flash with indignation, at the injustice of the oppressor, and seizing his club, he would sally forth to redress their wrongs. If he committed any depredations himself, he would sometimes be equally sorry, and make ample reparation. On other occasions, however, his mind would remain for a considerable length of time in the same wild and ungovernable disposition; and the report of his depredations would reach the King’s ears (the late King), who would say, “What shall I do with this Hala’api’api? I believe I must kill him.”
But Hala’api’api neither feared death nor the King, nor any other power. There was nobody but what liked him, and yet everybody feared him. His mind was like a powerful flame, constantly in action, and constantly feeding upon everything that could be made food of. Talk to him about battles, and he looked as if he were inspired. Tell him a pathetic story, and the tears would run down his cheeks faster than you could count them. Tell him a good joke, and there was nobody would laugh more heartily than he. The late King used to say, that Hala’api’api would prefer two days hard fighting without food more readily than the most peaceable man would two days food without fighting. No sooner did the younger Finau come to be King, than his friend, Hala’api’api, (to the astonishment of everybody), left off his mischievous tricks, and ceased to commit any acts of depredation. When I asked his reason for this, he replied, “The present King is a young man, without much experience, and I think I ought not to throw obstacles in the way of his peaceable government, by making him uneasy, or creating disturbances. The old king had great experience, and knew how to quell disturbances; besides, he was fond of fighting, and so I gratified my humor, without caring about the consequences; but such conduct now might be very bad for the country.”
Hala’api’api’s countenance, and his whole figure, very well portrayed his character. His small quick eye gave an idea of wonderful activity; and, though he looked as if he were a mischievous fellow, yet his general physiognomy expressed much generosity, good sense, and understanding. His whole body was exceedingly well proportioned, and he was considered one of the best made men at Vava’u. He was beyond conception swift of foot; to see him run, you would think he outstripped the wind; the grass seemed not to bend beneath his feet, and on the beach you would scarcely expect to find the traces of his footstep.
Such is a general sketch of some of the principal men of Vava’u, who had always behaved in a most friendly way to me, and whom of course I could not help feeling very great regret at parting with. My attention was soon occupied, however, by the arrival of the ship at the Ha’apai Islands, where she stood off and on during the time she remained (two days) between the islands of Ha’ano and Lifuka.
A vast number of canoes came alongside from the neighboring islands, and several of the chiefs were allowed to come on board. I now took the earliest opportunity, in the first place, to procure the escape of any Englishmen who might be there; and, secondly, to fulfill the sundry commissions I had received from my Vava’u friends. The cooper of the Port au Prince, who was the last man that remained on board with me when the ship was taken, was now under the protection and in the service of Vuna, who, with Tupouto’a, came on board the Favourite. I, therefore, immediately took proper means to get the cooper (Robert Brown) on board, and had the pleasure of succeeding. Other Englishmen were at the more distant islands, and Robert Brown most generously undertook to go for them, at the risk of being detained, or of the ship’s departure without him. The captain advised him not to go, if he valued his own liberty; but he replied, “It would be very hard indeed if one Englishman could not assist another, although it was at his own risk.”
I was particularly interested in the fate of Samuel Carlton, the boatswain of the Port au Prince, who had always been my intimate friend. This man’s case was rather hard. When he was in England, he was about to be married to a young woman to whom he had been long attached; but thinking he had not yet sufficient to begin the world with, in some business on shore, he thought it would be more prudent to go first on another voyage and increase his means, and accordingly he entered on board the Port au Prince. During his residence at the Ha’apai Islands he was always in a low and almost desponding state of mind, and his friend Robert Brown most cordially participated in his distress. At that moment Robert Brown conjectured that Carlton was at Nomuka, and was resolved to run the greatest risks to effect his escape, as well as that of others whom he supposed to be with him, particularly George Wood, the carpenter’s mate. He accordingly, after much trouble, and an offer of considerable rewards, persuaded four of the natives to accompany him to Nomuka, a distance of fifty miles, in a single sailing canoe, where, when he arrived, to his great mortification, he found that the object of his search, as well as two or three other Englishmen, were gone to the island of Tongatapu, to assist the friends of Tupouto’a, in the garrison of Hihifo. He then deliberated, whether he should push on to Tongatapu, a distance of sixty miles farther; but the men refused to take him, and he was obliged to return, bringing with him Emmanuel Perez, a Spaniard, and Josef, a black, who both belonged to the Port au Prince. In the meantime, three more Englishmen arrived on board, namely Nicholas Blake (seaman), and Thomas Eversfield and William Brown, (lads of 17 years of age), who afterwards returned on shore, refusing to go away.
The expatriates from the Port au Prince were the first Europeans to settle permanently in the Tonga Islands. The few white men who had attempted to settle in Tonga before the Port au Prince was captured had all been killed or had departed. Mariner met the negro woman from the Duke of Portland; but Mariner saw no other white men in the islands except for his own shipmates. James Waters, Nicholas Blake, William Brown, Thomas Eversfield, George Wood, William Singleton, Alexander Macay, a negro boy by the name of John Roberts, and the half-Hawaiian child of William Stevenson all remained in Tonga.
From that time on, there continued to be a small admixture of other races and other cultures in Tonga, chiefly Europeans. Compared to other Polynesian islands, their numbers were small. To this day, these islands are populated almost entirely by people of Polynesian ancestry.
It must be mentioned, that two or three men belonging to the Port au Prince got away about eighteen months before, in a schooner which happened to touch at Vava’u. Among these was William Towel, who now resides in Cross-street, Westmoreland Place, City-road, and follows the business of a hair-dresser. I was at that period at the Ha’apai Islands, and knew nothing of the schooner’s arrival.
I was much disappointed on finding that my adopted mother, Mafi Hape, was gone to a distant island to see some friend; the presents that I brought for her from the King and Queen I left, therefore, with one of her relations, to be given to her as soon as she returned, with some presents from myself, to keep in remembrance of me. I sent on shore, to the island of Foa, for the old matapule, the confident of Hala’api’api, and communicated to him the message from that chief. I also communicated to Tupouto’a the King’s advice to him, namely never to attempt the invasion of Vava’u, but to confine himself to the cultivation and prosperity of his own islands. To which he replied, that war was necessary to keep the minds of his chiefs employed, that they might not meditate conspiracies; and that he should, therefore, direct his arms against some of the garrisons at the island of Tongatapu. He had the greatest respect, he said, for Finau’s family; but he could not help it if some of his chiefs (as on the late occasion), made attacks upon Vava’u, for want of other employment. One of the warriors who was engaged in that unsuccessful expedition was now on board. He was wounded on that occasion in the arm by a ball from my musket. About a twelvemonth before, he laid a wager with me that I could not hit a mark which he put on a coconut tree at a certain distance with my musket. The bet was a pig. I accepted the wager, and the King promised to pay the pig if I lost. It happened, however, that I missed, and the King lost his pig. The warrior, as soon as he saw me on board, came up to me, and said, smiling, “I find you can shoot better than you did at the coconut tree.”
I inquired after his wound, and was happy to find that it had got nearly well. The ball had passed through the fleshy part of the arm; his Ha’apai surgeon, however, had laid the wound considerably open, and managed it very well.
It was very ludicrous to hear the different strange excuses and apologies made by the natives, in regard to the affair of the Port au Prince, with a view to persuade the captain that they had nothing to do with it. Many said that they were not on board; and knew nothing about it till it was all over, and then they were very sorry indeed to hear of it, and thought it a very bad thing. One man acknowledged that he was on board, being there out of curiosity, but that he knew nothing beforehand of the conspiracy, and took no part in it. Another acknowledged that he was on board under like circumstances, and he was quite astonished when they began to kill the white men; he declared, that he saved one white man’s life, but while he was turning round to save another’s, the man whose life he had just saved got killed on the spot. Several regretted they were not at Lifuka at the time, as they were sure they could have saved several of the Papalangies. They all affirmed that they were very fond of the Papalangies!!
Tupouto’a, and Vuna, both asked me why I had chosen to remain at Vava’u, and if they had not behaved equally kind to him as the King, or any of the Vava’u chiefs. To this I replied, that I preferred Vava’u to the Ha’apai Islands, as the latter place brought to his mind many disagreeable remembrances. It was where my ship had been destroyed, and where I had met with many insults from the lower orders on my first arrival; besides, I acknowledged that I preferred the disposition of the Vava’u people generally, and that I thought it would be highly ungrateful in me to leave the protection of a family that had befriended me all along.
After two day’s stay at the Ha’apai Islands, Captain Fisk ordered the natives out of the vessel, and directed his course to the Fiji Islands, to lay in a stock of sandalwood for the China market. It may be proper here to mention, that the conduct of one of those (who chose to remain behind) was very suspicious. He did not originally belong to the Port au Prince, but was taken by her in one of her prizes (a Spanish vessel), when he gave himself out to be an American, though it appeared afterwards that he was a native of Cornwall. He resided at Ha’apai, with a chief named Liufau [literally, to change the fau strainer when making kava], who was known to be a cunning, treacherous character, and, according to the accounts of many natives, this man was as bad. Thus much, however, is certain, that when I took leave of the King, I took him him to one side, and whispered to him to have a watchful eye upon Liufau, and the Papalangi, mentioning his name; for that they certainly meant to take a vessel the first favorable opportunity. When the Favourite arrived at the Ha’apai Islands, this man came on board, expressing his wish to return to Europe, and, as he was not to be judged upon mere hearsay evidence, the captain gave him a pair of trousers and shirt, and he fulfilled his duty with the rest of the sailors; though there was, as I conceived, a great deal in his manner and watchful eye that looked badly. Just upon the ship’s departure, however, he got into a canoe, and told the captain that he had changed his mind and would remain where he was, and went on shore without returning the trousers and shirt. I afterwards heard, in China, that he had served the captain of the schooner before mentioned exactly in the same way. The gentleman from whom I had this information in China received it from the captain himself, who, at the same time, expressed his firm opinion, that this man meant to take a European ship the first opportunity, or at least to be instrumental in doing it, by giving the natives instructions how it was best to be done. I forbear repeating the name of this individual, lest the reports of him should have been greatly exaggerated; there is too much reason to fear, however, that his designs were bad, and this notice may serve as a hint to ships who may hereafter touch there. The character of the Ha’apai people is not naturally more treacherous than that of the people of Vava’u; but as they have more petty chiefs whose interest they have to consult, the opportunity for treachery is perhaps more frequent. If our great circumnavigator, [Captain James Cook] whose death the world has so much reason to deplore, had known them in this respect, he would not have misnamed them “Friendly;” for, in fact, they had deliberately planned a conspiracy against him, and which would infallibly have been put it in execution, if the chiefs who planned it had not disputed about the exact mode and time of making the assault. Finau (at that time tributary chief of the Ha’apai Islands, Tuku’aho being king), was not the designer of this conspiracy, but he gave counsel and advice respecting it. The other chiefs proposed to invite the captain and his officers to a grand po me’a (a night dance by torch-light), and at a signal to massacre him, his officers, and all the marines; but Finau (the late king’s father), objected to this, as the darkness of the night would be unfavorable to their operations in taking the two vessels, and proposed rather that it should be done by day, and that they should seize the opportunity of making the attack on the occasion of a grand entertainment which was shortly to be given to Cook in honor of his arrival, and after they were all destroyed, the men, who would naturally come in search of him, were to be conducted to the further part of the island under pretence that he was there, and they were then to be destroyed in like manner. And thus the two ships, their crews being so weakened, might be taken (as they supposed), with ease. The entertainment was prepared, and Captain Cook and several officers being invited were present; it happened, however, a little before the appointed time when the signal was to be given, that most of the chiefs still expressed their opinion that the night time would have been better than the day, and Finau, finding that the majority were of this opinion, was much vexed, and immediately forbad it to be done at all. Thus, no signal being given, the amusements went on without interruption, and Captain Cook and his officers were much pleased with their entertainment, acknowledging it to be far better than any other that they had received at the Friendly Islands. I had this information at different times from several chiefs who were present, and in particular from Finau himself, (the father of the present King, and son of the chief who was at the head of the conspiracy.)
As every information must be interesting which regards the history or fate of this great and good man, to whom society owes so much, I cannot omit mentioning some circumstances, subsequent to his death, upon which the above anecdote so naturally leads the mind to reflect. The people of the Tonga Islands behaved towards Cook with every external demonstration of friendship, while they secretly meant to kill him; and the people of the Hawai’i Islands, although they actually did kill him, have paid, and still continue to pay him, higher honors than any other nation of the earth; they esteem him as having been sent by the gods to civilize them, and one to whom they owe the greatest blessings they enjoy. His bones (the greater part of which they have still in their possession!) they devoutly hold sacred; they are deposited in a house consecrated to a god, and are annually carried in procession to many other consecrated houses, before each of which they are laid on the ground, and the priest returns thanks to the gods for having sent them so great a man.
When the Port au Prince was at Oahu (one of the Hawaiian Islands), I was informed of the above circumstances by an Englishman (or perhaps an American), who was a resident there; his name was Harebottle; he seemed a man of some information and respectability, and was formerly the mate of an American vessel that touched there, but, in consequence of some disagreement with the captain, he chose to remain at those islands, and acted in the capacity of harbour-master to the King, and pilot to all ships that arrived, from each of which he demanded five or six dollars for his services. This person informed me that the natives of the island of Hawai’i returned very few of the bones of Captain Cook, but chiefly substituted the bones of some other Englishman who was killed on that melancholy occasion; and that those of Cook were carried annually in procession as above related. When. I afterwards understood the Tongan language, I conversed upon the subject with the natives of Hawai’i, who were with me at Vava’u; they corroborated everything that Harebottle had said, and stated, moreover, that the natives had no idea that Cook could possibly be killed, as they considered him a supernatural being, and were astonished when they saw him fall. The man who killed him was a carpenter, and his immediate motive was, either the apprehension that Captain Cook was, at that moment, ordering his men to increase their fire, or, that he struck him, not knowing him to be the extraordinary being of whom he had heard so much, for he lived a considerable distance up the country, and was not personally acquainted with him. The flesh of their illustrious victim was shared out to different gods, and afterwards burnt; while the bones were disposed of as before related. Among the natives of Hawai’i, from whom I heard this, one was a chief of a middling rank, the rest were of the lower order, but they all agreed in the same statement; they had not been eye-witnesses, however, of that melancholy transaction (for they were all young men), but they spoke of these things as being universally known in the Hawaiian Islands, and beyond all doubt. They stated, moreover, that the King and principal chiefs were exceedingly sorry for the death of their extraordinary benefactor, and would have made any sacrifices in their power rather than so melancholy an accident should have occurred. It is related in Cook’s Voyages, that, as soon as he received his wound, the natives were seen to snatch the dagger (by which his death was effected), from each other’s hands, displaying a savage eagerness to join in his destruction. In all probability, however, this eagerness to seize the dagger was prompted in each by the wish to be possessed of an instrument which had become consecrated, as it were, by the death of so great a man; at least, this is presumed, from what would have been the sentiment, had the accident happened at the Tonga Islands.