BOILED RICE

Plain and simple, this is the easiest way to cook rice. You might be most familiar with the ‘draining method’ from when you make pasta. The only difference being that addition of salt in the water is optional; some people do and some don’t. Ideally you would take around 6–8 times the amount water as the quantity of rice, bring it to a boil and cook as per instructions on the packet. Drain through a colander, and serve hot.

SERVES 4–6

400g basmati rice

1 litre water

1 teaspoon salt

Thoroughly wash the rice in cold running water. Place the rice in a bowl of cold water and leave to soak for 25 minutes. Drain well.

Bring 1 litre of water to the boil in a large pan and add the salt. Add the rice and simmer, uncovered, for 8–10 minutes, until the grains are tender, but not mushy. Remove the pan from the heat and drain the rice through a sieve. Serve with a curry or another dish of your choice.

Vivek’s tip

The rice is ready to use as soon as it is drained; however, if you want to make it in advance but prevent further cooking, you could pour cold water over the rice, or simply spread it out in a large baking tray and leave to cool. Rice is best reheated quickly in a microwave.

EASY PILAU RICE

This is the easiest pilau rice you’ll ever make – but you will need a microwave oven. It’s a clever way to use your time effectively: the rice can cook on its own while you prepare the rest of the meal. Ideally, you’d put the rice in 15–20 minutes before you’re ready to eat and serve it hot.

SERVES 4–6

250g basmati rice

375ml water

½ teaspoon salt

50g ghee or vegetable oil

3 cloves

2 green cardamom pods

5cm piece of cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 bay leaf

2 tablespoons dried sliced onions, deep fried

10g mint leaves, shredded

10g fresh coriander leaves and stalks, chopped

Thoroughly wash the rice in cold running water. Place the rice in a bowl of cold water and leave to soak for 25 minutes. Drain well.

Place the rice, water and salt in a shallow microwave dish and set aside.

Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan to smoking point and add the whole spices and bay leaf. When they crackle, add the onion, mint and coriander and mix briefly, then tip all of the ingredients out of the pan and add into the microwave dish with the rice.

Place the dish in a microwave oven and cook, uncovered, on High for 12–13 minutes, until most of the water is absorbed and you see small holes on the surface of the rice. Stir well, then cover with clingfilm and return to the microwave for another 5 minutes. Remove the dish from the microwave, uncover and fluff it with a fork and allow the rice to cool slightly. Serve hot.

Vivek’s tip

Soaking the rice before cooking reduces the cooking time and prevents the grains from breaking while cooking.

LEMON RICE

One of many dishes made from the humble grain that make you appreciate how versatile rice can be! As simple as this recipe is, it adds colour, flavour and vibrancy to any dish it accompanies.

SERVES 4–6

400g basmati rice

1 litre water

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon black mustard seeds

1 tablespoon chana dal (split yellow chickpeas)

1 teaspoon white urad lentils (optional)

20 fresh curry leaves

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ teaspoons salt

juice of 3 lemons

Thoroughly wash the rice in cold running water. Place the rice in a bowl of cold water and leave to soak for 25 minutes. Drain well.

Bring the water to the boil in a large saucepan and add the rice. Cook, uncovered, for 8–10 minutes, until the grains are tender, but not mushy. Drain through a sieve and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large pan to smoking point and add the mustard seeds, chana dal and urad lentils, if using, and let them crackle. When they start to turn almost golden, add the curry leaves and the turmeric and stir for 1 minute (sprinkle in some water to prevent the turmeric from burning). Add the cooked rice, salt and lemon juice and gently toss to mix well without breaking the rice grains.

JERUSALEM COUSCOUS UPMA

Israeli couscous is similar to tapioca pearls in appearance, except the grains are larger and quite dramatic, imparting a rather nice texture to the upma.

SERVES 4

100g Israeli couscous, boiled as per instructions on the packet and drained

1 red onion, finely chopped

2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

2 green chillies, finely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks

1 green mango, peeled, and cut into 5mm dice

½ teaspoon red pepper, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon salt

juice of ½ lemon

For tempering

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

10 curry leaves

Put the Israeli couscous in a bowl and stir in the remaining ingredients, except the oil, mustard seeds and curry leaves. Mix together and check the seasoning. Heat the oil in a small frying pan to smoking point and add the mustard seeds and curry leaves. As soon as they crackle, pour them into the bowl of couscous and serve immediately.

Jerusalem Couscous Upma

AUBERGINE CRUSH

This simple but very effective aubergine crush is an excellent accompaniment to both grilled meats and fish, and is versatile enough that it can be served as a filling for wraps, too. The aubergines can be either roasted in the oven, char-grilled on a very hot grill or even burnt on an open flame. Much like roasting peppers to remove the skin, the last two options impart a wonderful smokiness to the dish. Unlike a north Indian aubergine crush, where the aubergines are cooked further with onions, tomatoes and spices after being roasted, this version is eastern Indian in influence.

SERVES 4 AS A GENEROUS ACCOMPANIMENT

4 garlic cloves, peeled

2 large aubergines

5 tablespoons mustard oil (or use 5 tablespoons vegetable oil mixed with 2½ tablespoons English mustard), or feel free to substitute olive oil

3 green chillies, finely chopped (depending on how hot the chillies arel)

2 red onions, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks

juice of 2 lemons

1 teaspoon salt

Slice the garlic cloves in half and, using a sharp knife, prick each aubergine 4 times. Insert the garlic pieces into the slits in the aubergines. Smear the aubergines with ½ tablespoon of the oil, place on a baking tray and bake in an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 for 10 minutes. Turn the aubergines over and roast for a further 10– 20 minutes, until they are very soft and the skins are wrinkled.

Remove the aubergines from the oven and leave until cool enough to handle, then peel and discard the skins and stems. Finely chop the aubergine pulp, including the garlic, and mix with the remaining oil, green chillies, onions, coriander, lemon juice and salt.

Aubergine crush can be served warm or cold.

STIR-FRIED GREENS WITH GARLIC AND CUMIN

As the name suggests, you can use whatever greens are in season – kale, cabbage, beetroot greens and red chard all work well in this dish. Just remember to add the hard bits first and cook longer, then add the softer leaves last and remove from the heat as soon as they wilt.

SERVES 4

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 dried red chilli

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

150g broccoli or purple sprouting broccoli, cut into florets

50g shelled peas, fresh or thawed (preferably petits pois)

1 green chilli, finely chopped

2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt

200g bok choy leaves, cut diagonally

200g spinach leaves

½ teaspoon Kadhai Masala

a pinch of sugar

2 tablespoons salted butter

juice of ½ lemon

Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan or wok to smoking point and add the garlic, dried red chilli and cumin seeds. When they crackle, add the broccoli florets and peas and stir-fry on a medium-high heat for 2–3 minutes, until the broccoli is tender. Stir in the green chilli, ginger and salt, then add the bok choy and spinach and continue stir-frying on a medium-high heat until the spinach leaves wilt. Sprinkle with kadhai masala and sugar and add the butter and lemon juice, stirring until the butter melts. Serve immediately.

Stir-Fried Greens with Garlic and Cumin

YELLOW LENTILS

This is how yellow lentils are cooked in Indian homes. There are different varieties of yellow lentils used in different parts of the country, for example: split mung beans, red masoor lentils, toor lentils, split yellow chickpeas (chana lentils), white urad lentils. Each of these can be used individually or as a mix of all five lentils as seen in Rajasthani five-lentil mix.

SERVES 4

120g yellow moong lentils (split yellow mung beans)

750ml water

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon ghee or vegetable oil

1 dried red chilli

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

a pinch of asafoetida

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 onion, finely chopped

1 tomato, finely chopped

1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

1 teaspoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks

juice of ½ lemon

Wash the lentils in cold running water and drain well. Place them in a pan with the water, turmeric and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes, until the lentils are tender and disintegrating.

Heat the ghee or oil in a heavy-based pan to smoking point and add chilli, cumin seeds and asafoetida. When they crackle, add the garlic and stir until it turns golden, then add the onion and cook on a medium heat for 4–6 minutes until it is translucent. Add the tomato and cook for 3 minutes, until it has softened, then pour in the cooked lentils. Stir in the ginger and coriander and bring to the boil. Adjust the seasoning, if necessary, and finish with the lemon juice.

Yellow Lentils (left) and Black Lentils (right)

BLACK LENTILS

Each of my books has a recipe for black lentils – they’re just so popular! These rich, earthy, creamy, musky, black lentils are a comfort food perfect for lifting your spirits in cold, dark wet winters. Traditionally these are cooked for hours, but in every version we’ve tried to tweak it to make it a little easier to prepare. This one is perhaps the easiest yet.

SERVES 4

250g black urad lentils, soaked in lukewarm water in a warm place overnight

3 litres water

1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste

1½ teaspoons red chilli powder

1½ teaspoons salt

4 tablespoons tomato purée

150g salted butter

2 teaspoons dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips

1 teaspoon Garam Masala

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons single cream

Drain the lentils and put them in a pan with 1 litre of the water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, skimming the surface, as necessary, for 20–25 minutes, until they are nearly half cooked.

Meanwhile, bring the remaining 2 litres to the boil. After the lentils have cooked for 20–25 minutes and the water is dark, drain the dark water off and add the fresh boiling water to them. Continue cooking the lentils for another hour or so, until they are thoroughly tender, but not broken down. Add the ginger and garlic paste, chilli powder and salt and boil again for 10 minutes. Add the tomato purée and butter and simmer, stirring, for 15 minutes, or until the lentils are thick, but taking care that butter does not separate from the lentils.

Add the fenugreek leaves, garam masala and sugar. Check the seasoning, then carefully stir in the cream.

This dish goes very well with most tandoori-style dishes, especially tandoori chicken and also with layered parathas and naans.

MARROW AND LENTILS

This might be a very different way to serve marrow than you are used to. This often bland vegetable is perked up here through quite an extensive list of ingredients and gets extra texture from the lentils. You can replace the marrow with any other squash or even with bitter gourd. This is a good way of incorporating protein into a vegetarian diet.

SERVES 4

75g split yellow lentils or chana dal (split yellow chickpeas)

1½ teaspoons ground turmeric, plus a pinch for cooking the lentils

½ teaspoon salt, plus extra for boiling the marrow

500g marrow, peeled, deseeded and cut into 2.5cm dice

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1½ teaspoons cumin seeds

1 whole red chilli, broken into 3 pieces

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 teaspoon red chilli powder

1 teaspoon ground coriander

2 large tomatoes, deseeded and chopped

3 green chillies, finely chopped

2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt

40g fresh green coriander leaves and stalks, finely chopped

juice of 1 lemon

Wash the lentils in cold running water and drain well. Put them in a pan with a pinch of turmeric and enough water to cover and bring to the boil. Simmer for 20–25 minutes, until the lentils are just tender but still hold their shape. Drain and set aside.

Blanch the marrow in boiling salted water with 1 teaspoon of the turmeric for a couple of minutes, then drain. Cool it down quickly by plunging into cold water, drain again and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large pan to smoking point and add the cumin and red chilli. When they crackle, add the onion and cook for 4–6 minutes until it is translucent. Add the chilli powder, coriander and the remaining ½ teaspoon turmeric and cook for another couple of minutes. Now add the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, until the moisture from the tomatoes has evaporated. Add the drained lentils and cook for another 4 minutes. Add the green chillies, ginger and salt, followed by the blanched marrow, and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes: the lentils should be tender but still firm to bite. Check the seasoning and finish with the coriander and lemon juice.

POMEGRANATE RAITA

Raita is a common accompaniment to Indian meals. It helps take the heat off certain dishes, keeps the body cool in hot months and aids digestion.

SERVES 4

1 pomegranate

500g Greek yoghurt

1 spring onion, finely chopped

2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

2 green chillies, finely chopped

1 teaspoon cumin, roasted in a dry frying pan and ground

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks

Cut the pomegranate in half and remove the seeds, gently tapping the halves with a rolling pin or the back of a heavy knife to loosen them. Reserve a few pomegranate seeds for garnishing.

Combine the remaining seeds with the rest of the ingredients, except the coriander, and mix well. Transfer the raita into 4 bowls, sprinkle with the coriander and reserved pomegranate seeds and refrigerate until required.

YOGHURT KADHI SAUCE

This is a very versatile sauce, commonly seen and served in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Delhi and most of north India. The sauce is cooked a little bit like a custard, but without eggs. Chickpea flour is used to thicken the yoghurt, and the resulting base is a perfect canvas on which to paint a variety of flavours. In the southern part of the country, they make a similar sauce using rice flour to thicken yoghurt, leaving out the turmeric, so resulting in a hot yoghurt soup.

SERVES 4–6

For the yoghurt sauce

150g plain yoghurt

1 tablespoon gram (chickpea) flour

250ml water

½ teaspoon salt

a small pinch of ground turmeric

For tempering

1 tablespoon ghee

1 dried red chilli

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

a sprig of fresh curry leaves

juice of ½ lemon

Start with the yoghurt kadhi. Whisk together the yoghurt, gram flour, water, salt and turmeric and pass through a fine sieve to get rid of any lumps.

Place in a saucepan on a medium heat and bring to the boil, whisking constantly. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5–8 minutes, until the sauce turns glossy and thickens enough to lightly coat the back of a wooden spoon. Skim off any scum or impurities from the surface.

In a small pan, heat the ghee to smoking point. Add the red chilli, cumin seeds and curry leaves and leave on the heat for a few seconds until they splutter and crackle. Tip the contents of the pan over the sauce, pour over the lemon juice and set aside.

Serve immediately if everything else is ready. If not, allow to cool and reheat when ready to serve. Once cooled, the sauce can be stored in a refrigerator for a couple of days and reheated when needed.

CITRUS MASHED POTATOES

This version of spiced mashed potatoes is particularly good with any seafood main course. The addition of lemon juice towards the end has a refreshing effect and the acidity livens up the dish.

SERVES 4

500g floury potatoes, such as Desiree, peeled and cut into chunks

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

75g butter

1 tablespoon ghee or vegetable oil

½ teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted and crushed

½ teaspoon red chilli flakes

2 green chillies, chopped

2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

4 tablespoons single cream

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks

juice of 1 lemon

Cook the potatoes in boiling water with salt and turmeric until tender. Drain and push through a fine sieve or potato ricer into a bowl. Mix in the butter while the potatoes are still warm and set aside.

Heat the ghee or oil in a heavy-based frying pan to smoking point and add the cumin seeds and red chilli flakes. When they crackle, add the green chillies and ginger. Add the mashed potatoes and mix well on a low heat combining the ingredients and reheating the potatoes if necessary. Gradually stir in the cream and continue stirring on a low heat until the potato mixture absorbs all the cream and leaves the sides of the pan. Finish with the coriander and lemon juice.

NAANS

The humble, common naan from Delhi and Punjab is one of the best gifts from tandoor ovens to mankind. It is widely available and popular the world over, and light and fluffy naans can be served with any main course of your choice. Use your imagination and you could soon be using this bread for sandwiches, making rolls or even using it as a base for canapés.

MAKES 16

750g plain white flour

1½ teaspoons baking powder

1 tablespoon salt

400ml whole milk

2 eggs

35g sugar

50ml vegetable oil

Mix the flour, baking powder and salt together in a bowl. Whisk together the milk, eggs and sugar, then add this to the flour mixture and knead lightly to make a soft dough (take care not to overwork the dough or it will become too stretchy). Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rest for 15 minutes.

Pour the oil over the dough and turn it a few times so it is evenly coated. Divide the dough into 16 equal pieces, roll out each one into a circle about 9cm in diameter, then gently stretch out one side to form the traditional teardrop shape. Alternatively just roll them into 10cm circles.

Although naans are traditionally cooked on the side of a hot tandoor oven, they also cook well in an ordinary domestic oven. Preheat the oven to 220°C/Gas Mark 7, putting a baking tray in it to heat up. Place the naan breads on the hot tray and bake for 4–5 minutes, until they are starting to brown on both sides. You might need to turn the bread to make sure it colours on both sides.

Alternatively, heat several heavy-based flameproof frying pans on the hob until they are very hot. Place one naan bread on each pan and cook for a couple of minutes, until it starts to get slightly coloured. Turn the naans over and transfer the pans to a hot grill for a minute or so, until the bread puffs up and gets lightly coloured. Voila! Your naan bread is ready and you didn’t even need a tandoor oven!

Serve the naans hot, or wrap in a tea towel to keep warm.

Vivek’s tip

You can get as creative as you like with the toppings – try turmeric, crushed red chillies, fresh coriander, garlic, grated cheese, pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, olives – quite simply anything you fancy!

Naans

MISSI ROTI

This simple, rustic chickpea bread from Rajasthan is so robustly spiced, it can be eaten on its own or with a simple pickle or chutney. It makes for an excellent canapé, too.

MAKES 8

300g gram (chickpea) flour

200g plain white flour

2cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

2 green chillies, finely chopped

1 red onion, finely chopped

1 spring onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ajowan seeds

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

150ml water

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil

Mix the chickpea flour and plain flour together. Remove 3–4 tablespoons of the flour mix and set aside for dusting. Add the ginger, chillies, red onion, spring onion, fresh coriander, salt, ajowan seeds and turmeric and mix well. Add the water and 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil and knead until the mixture is combined and a stiff dough forms. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rest for 15–20 minutes.

Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces and shape into balls. Roll out each ball on a lightly floured surface, into a circle 15cm in diameter.

Heat a large, heavy-based non-stick frying pan or flat griddle on a high heat and place a circle of dough on it. Cook for 3–4 minutes, until the dough starts to dry out and is lightly coloured underneath; turn over. Reduce the heat, brush the top of the bread with some ghee or vegetable oil and turn it over and cook until the colour has deepened. Brush the top again and remove from the pan. The breads need to be turned twice. Cook the remaining breads in the same way.

Missi Roti

SHEERMALS

This rich and flavoursome bread is a speciality from Lucknow, and had its origins in the Mughal courts all over India. Originally made in iron tandoors, which are now rarely seen in India, this version comes out just as well in a Western domestic oven.

MAKES 12

500g plain flour

400ml milk

40g sugar

1 tablespoon chironji (also known as charoli)

2 pinches of saffron, soaked in 1 tablespoon warm milk

1 teaspoon salt

150g ghee or clarified butter, melted, plus an extra 1 tablespoon for brushing

Put the milk in a pan with the sugar and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the chironji and half of the saffron, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and, when the milk is cool, stir in the salt.

Mix together the flour and ground cardamom in a large bowl. Gradually add the milk and knead until it comes together as a smooth, soft dough. Cover with a damp tea towel and leave to rest for 15 minutes.

Turn out the dough and knead it again, then slowly add the ghee, little by little, using your fingers to incorporate it. Roll into a ball, cover with a damp tea towel and leave to rest again for 15 minutes.

Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces and roll into balls. Cover the dough balls with a damp tea towel and set aside for 10 minutes.

Roll out each ball into a circle about 10cm in diameter. Arrange the dough circles on 2 greased baking sheets and bake in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for 10 minutes. Remove the baking sheets from the oven, brush the circles with ghee and the remaining saffron, return them to the oven to bake for 5 minutes more, until shiny and crisp on the surface. Serve immediately, brushed with more ghee.

Vivek’s tip

The secret of perfection with this bread is to incorporate the ghee into the dough slowly by adding a little at a time. This way the fat is dispersed evenly through the entire dough. Chironji is available in good Asian delicatessens or online.

LAYERED PARATHAS

These circular layered parathas are the type traditionally served daily for lunch and dinner in north Indian homes. This is an example of home cooking and a fine one at that. More and more supermarkets sell ready-made frozen parathas, but, when you make your own you can add different spices, chillies, masalas or pesto – almost whatever you fancy. I’ve numbered the steps in the recipe text below to correspond with the instructional images on the following two pages.

MAKES 8

550g chapatti flour (look for it in Asian food shops), plus about 50g extra for dusting

275ml water

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon ajowan seeds

2 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil

1 tablespoon dried fenugreek leaves

2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves

Put the flour, water, oil, salt and ajowan seeds in a bowl and mix together, kneading lightly to make a smooth dough.1 Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rest for 15 minutes.

Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces and roll each into a smooth, round ball.2 Flatten one ball at a time with the palm of your hand. Sprinkle over a little of the reserved flour and roll it into a circle, 6–8cm in diameter.3 Brush the top with ghee and sprinkle with a little more flour and some of the fenugreek leaves and mint.4 Lift the disc from one side and fold the dough a few times like a concertina to obtain a thin strip approximately 2.5cm wide.5 Roll the strip loosely into a coil and let it rest for 5 minutes.6

Flatten each coil, one at a time, using your hands or a rolling pin to obtain a disc about 1.5cm in diameter. Take care not to roll it too thinly or you will lose the layers.7

Heat a heavy-based frying pan or flat griddle on a high heat and add one of the flattened coils8 and cook for 2–3 minutes, until the dough begins to dry out and colours on the bottom. Turn the dough over and cook it on the other side, then reduce the heat to medium. Brush the top of the bread with ghee and flip it over again until it is golden and crisp on the outside. You will notice that the layers separate as it cooks. The application of ghee and flour between the layers facilitates this, and as the steam inside the bread builds up the layers separate.9 Cook the remaining breads in the same way, wrapping them loosely in foil to keep warm until they are all cooked.

CINNAMON KITCHEN CLASSICS: STEP BY STEP

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE PODIMAS

These are much like the filling you find inside dosa pancakes in the Subcontinent, but the Jerusalem artichokes give it a wonderful smokiness and deep earthy flavour, which I absolutely adore. I hope you like it as much!

SERVES 6–8

1kg Jerusalem artichokes, unpeeled, but thoroughly washed

1 green chilli, slit lengthways

1 red onion, sliced

2cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

salt, to taste

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks

juice of 1 lemon

For tempering

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

10 fresh curry leaves

1 dried red chilli

1 teaspoon urad dhal

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

a pinch of asafoetida

Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Add the Jerusalem artichokes and simmer for about 20 minutes, until they are tender. Drain well and set aside.

When the Jerusalem artichokes are cool enough to handle, peel them and return them to the pan. Mash them coarsely, then set aside.

For the tempering, heat the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan to smoking point and add all the tempering ingredients. When the seeds crackle and the curry leaves wilt, add the chilli, red onion, ginger, turmeric and salt and fry, stirring, on a high heat for 30 seconds. Add the mashed artichokes and the salt to the pan and mix together. Finish off with the coriander and lemon juice and combine well.

GARLIC CHUTNEY

This is a fine example of the very hot chutneys and pickles that are consumed in the region of Rajasthan, where fruit and vegetables are preserved for later use. The heavy-handed spicing is what gives this group of preserves a better keeping quality. In the old days, travellers would simply set off on long journeys with some of these chutneys, which they consumed with bread. Kachri is a tomato-like fruit, sour and with lots of seeds inside a hard shell; it’s consumed mostly in dried form. For this recipe, it’s pounded coarsely and its addition to the chutney adds texture as well as acidity and sharpness to the chutney. Look for kachri in Asian food shops, but if you can’t find any substitute with finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes and reduce the cooking time by half (5–6 minutes instead of 12–15 minutes). Alternatively, replace it with 250g extra garlic cloves, which will make a much hotter chutney.

MAKES ABOUT 500G

75g dried whole red chillies, soaked in 250ml hot water overnight or for at least 2 hours

250ml vegetable oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

125g garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

75ml malt vinegar

1 tablespoon red chilli powder

2 teaspoons salt

250g kachri (see above) or sun-dried tomatoes, coarsely pounded

3 tablespoons sugar (optional)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks (optional)

Drain the chillies, reserving the water, and put in a blender or food processor. Blitz into a smooth paste – you can use some of the soaking water if it looks a bit dry. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan to smoking point and add the cumin seeds. When they crackle, add the garlic and fry, stirring, until it begins to turn golden. Add the chilli paste, vinegar, chilli powder and the salt and cook on a low heat, constantly stirring, for 5–6 minutes. Now add the kachri and continue cooking for another 12– 15 minutes, until the chutney is reduced and thickened and the fat begins to separate from it. Check the seasoning and add sugar, if required.

Remove from the heat and leave to cool. If you cover the surface with a layer of oil, the chutney can be stored at room temperature for 2 weeks, or in the fridge for a month.

Vivek’s tip

Balance the chutney with a tablespoon of ketchup if it’s too hot for your liking.

PEANUT CHUTNEY

This simple chutney works very well with any Oriental-style dish or curries from southern India. This is a versatile dip reminiscent of Asian satay sauce and works well even as a dip with bread.

MAKES ABOUT 160G

½ teaspoon tablespoon vegetable oil

150g skinned peanuts

½ teaspoon red chilli powder

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

2 red chillies, roughly chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

4 tablespoons coconut milk

juice from 1 lemon

Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the peanuts and fry until golden. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Put the peanuts and remaining ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend into a paste. Check the seasoning and serve at room temperature. It can be stored in an airtight jar for up to a week if refrigerated.

Vivek’s tip

Cashew nuts work just as well. You can also thin the chutney with additional coconut milk and water to make a peanut sauce.

TOMATO AND COCONUT CHUTNEY

This is an example of a twice-tempered chutney from southern India. It is tempered once before blending and then again briefly to finish with the hot oil and spices.

MAKES ABOUT 550G

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

10 fresh curry leaves

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

1 onion, chopped

3 tomatoes, chopped

1 teaspoon red chilli powder

1 coconut, grated

30g chana dal (split yellow chickpeas), roasted

1 teaspoon salt

For tempering

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

5–10 fresh curry leaves

1 dried red chilli

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based pan to smoking point and add the curry leaves and fennel seeds. When the seeds crackle, add the onion and cook for 4–6 minutes until it is translucent. Now add the tomatoes and chilli powder and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have softened. Stir in the coconut and continue cooking until all the liquid has evaporated.

Remove the chutney from the heat and leave to cool. Transfer to a blender or food processor with the roasted chana dal and a little water and blend until smooth. Mix in the salt.

To temper the chutney, heat the oil to smoking point and add the curry leaves, red chilli and mustard seeds. When the seeds crackle, pour over the chutney.

Remove from the heat and leave to cool. If you cover the surface with a layer of oil the chutney can be stored at room temperature for 2 weeks, or in the fridge for a month.

GREEN COCONUT CHUTNEY

This is a simple, yet versatile chutney to accompany any south Indian dish. The mint leaves are our little addition, but you can interpret this recipe in many different ways – add tomatoes and red chillies for a red colour, or even green mangoes in season to make a fresh, sharper-tasting chutney.

MAKES ABOUT 400G

1 coconut, grated

50g fresh coriander leaves and stalks

20g fresh mint leaves

4 green chillies, chopped

2 tablespoons chana dal (split yellow chickpeas), roasted

1 teaspoon salt

For tempering

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

10 fresh curry leaves

¼ teaspoon black mustard seeds

Put the coconut, coriander, mint, chillies, chana dal and salt in a blender or food processor and blend to a soft, spoonable consistency. To temper the chutney, heat the oil to smoking point and add the curry leaves and mustard seeds. As soon as they start to crackle, pour over the chutney.

Remove from the heat and leave to cool. If you cover the surface with a layer of oil the chutney can be stored at room temperature for 2 weeks, or in the fridge for a month.

TAMARIND CHUTNEY

We use this all-round chutney in quite a few recipes: as a marinade, as a glaze, as an accompaniment and also as a garnish. The sweet spice, earthy, deep liquorice flavours and rich, glossy texture make this an attractive garnish. Once cooked, tamarind chutney stores well and can keep for up to 2 weeks in the fridge.

MAKES ABOUT 225G

150g tamarind paste

1 bay leaf

1 black cardamom pod

75g jaggery or molasses sugar

1½ teaspoons ground ginger

1 teaspoon red chilli powder

¼ teaspoon salt

Place the tamarind paste, bay leaf and cardamom pod in a heavy-based pan and bring to the boil. Add the jaggery or molasses sugar and cook, stirring, on a medium-low heat for 15 minutes, until glossy. Stir in the ground ginger, chilli powder and salt.

Remove the chutney from the heat and strain through a sieve, then leave to cool and serve as a dip.

MARINATED TOMATO SALAD

Summer is a great time for something like this, when it’s easy to find numerous varieties of tomatoes, all different colours, sizes, flavours and textures.

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER, OR 6–8 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT

800g mixed tomatoes, various types and colours – whatever you’re able to find – sliced or quartered, depending on their size

2 green chillies, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3–4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks

1 tablespoon chopped dill

1 tablespoon pomegranate seeds

½ teaspoon salt

juice of 2 limes

a few twists of freshly milled black pepper

a pinch of sugar (optional)

Arrange the tomatoes on individual plates or a large serving platter or in a bowl.

Whisk together all the remaining ingredients, including sugar to taste, then pour over the tomatoes. Transfer to the fridge and chill for 20–30 minutes, by which time, the dressing will have macerated the tomatoes and they will be ready to serve.

Marinated Tomato Salad