Henna paste is going to be applied, it will stain my hands red.
My friends say, now flower buds are going to blossom in your hands.
Your heart, your life are going to receive new joys.
—Mehndi Hai Rachnewali, from the film Zubeidaa
The application of henna is a ritual in itself; preparation, taking time, and the meditative process of applying the design all make for a very special and sacred experience. You can’t hurry henna; it is a magical substance in itself, creating an alchemical change from powder to liquid to its deep, rich stain. It makes its mark, holds its essence, but cannot be hurried, for haste will produce inferior magic.
Types of Henna
There are several countries that export henna powder either for use as a hair dye or for body decoration. It is advisable to buy your henna powder from a supplier who specializes in body-art quality (BAQ) henna; they themselves will have bought a very good, fresh supply direct from a reputable supplier in the country of origin. Henna bought from health stores or ethnic food stores may have been sitting on the shelves or exposed to the light for a long time, and henna loses its dyeing properties once it has become stale. Fresh henna powder is light green and mixes to a brown paste; stale henna will be a dull green/brown. Be cautious of bright green powder, as it may be old henna that has been freshened up with green dye.
Listed below are the various products that can be classed as “henna,” some of which are positively dangerous—it is a good thing to become acquainted with what is available. Please refer to the coloured endpages for visual examples of different hennas.
Neutral Henna: Technically, there is no such thing as “neutral” henna, but what you will be getting is Cassia obovata (Senna genus), a green powder that has no actual henna added and is purely a simple but superb conditioning treatment for hair and nails.
Red Henna or Traditional Henna (Lawsonia inermis): Made using henna leaf buds, which contain a strong tannin concentration, giving it the characteristic red tone. This is a light green powder that mixes to deep reddish-brown paste; the resulting stain depends on the area the henna comes from.
North African henna such as Moroccan and Yemeni make a stringier paste that helps give a fine, strong line and produces a warm, deep red stain. Persian henna is reputed to produce a darker red stain, whereas Indian henna is believed to give a more brownish-red hue. However, it is more likely the variation in colour is due to application methods and/or the type of skin the henna is applied to, as each person’s chemical makeup is different, and this can affect the final result.
Indigo or Victorian Black Henna (Indigofera tinctoria): Note that this is not PPD “black henna”—in India or the Middle East, indigo was used with or after applying red henna to achieve a blue-black tone. Indigo has a distinct colour to it and is distinguishable from imitation black hennas by its blueness when mixed. Other so-called black henna powders may have crushed walnut or oak gall added; to be on the safe side, always conduct a small skin-patch test to check for any irritation these ingredients may cause. Indigo may be used on the skin as a temporary stain, which can range from a sensuously dark inky blue to a moody grey.
Black Henna: There is actually no such thing as “black” henna; if you do see henna specified as black, it will invariably have something added, usually a chemical dye. If it comes from a Middle Eastern or Indian shop, it may be henna mixed with indigo or other colourings; however, if it is sold in a clear tube or as a black- or coffee-coloured powder, then it is very likely to be fake “black henna” and is to be avoided at all costs. This substance contains PPD (paraphenylenediamine), which is normally used in commercial hair dye but is not approved for direct use on the skin, and it is either sold as a paste or mixed with henna powder, which gives off a black liquid stain and can smell similar to frozen peas. If you go on holiday and are offered a “henna tattoo,” be very careful as to what you are allowing on your skin; it is unlikely to be ordinary henna. Please do not use this product or allow anyone you know to have a “black henna” tattoo, as it may cause severe skin damage and a permanent allergic reaction to PPD dyes in future.
There are several nontoxic alternatives to black henna called harquus and jagua, which can be used to achieve a black temporary tattoo and are FDA approved; although not henna-based, should you be desperate for a black
An example of a henna kit including a tube of henna, oil, and stencils. To use stencils, place on a clean, dry hand, cover with henna paste, leave until dry, and then remove the stencil. Protect the design with wrappings for several hours (preferably overnight), then remove any dried henna and rub in the oil to bring out the colour.
design, they can be obtained from the suppliers listed at the back of the book. Both harquus and jagua have been used for centuries.
Harquus is the name used for the black facial adornments of the North African and Middle Eastern cultures, incorporating both tattooing and body painting, which were often used in conjunction with henna as a complementary decoration. You can obtain harquus from mehandi.com (see appendix). Jagua is a natural black dye from a South American plant and has been used by tribal people for centuries. It gives a blue-grey or blue-black stain and lasts for around ten to fifteen days.
Henna comes in several forms—most notably a green powder (consisting of the dried, crushed leaves) that, when mixed with liquid, resembles a brownish-red mud. It has a distinctive herby or grassy smell and stains the skin almost immediately. To achieve a perfect design, you will need to obtain fresh henna that has not been sitting on a shelf for the past five years! The suppliers at the back of the book are meticulous about their stock and will only sell fresh, well-sifted henna. Fresh henna powder is a strong green and will produce a deep brownish-red mix; stale henna will be a dull green, turning brownish when mixed, and will produce inferior staining. For your designs, you will need very finely sifted powder, free from the twigs and general debris sometimes found in the henna used for dyeing hair. This is available as body-art quality (BAQ) henna from the stockists listed in the appendix; if you do buy elsewhere and find that it is a bit twiggy, you can sift your powder by putting a nylon stocking or piece of pantyhose over a cup and gently sieving the henna through it.
Henna is also available in freshly made paste, either in a bag, a tub, or filled cones. These can be bought from a good supplier who will make a fresh paste and send them to you so that you can use them immediately or store them in the freezer until you need them; they should last several months. You may also find tubes of henna in Indian stores, but do check that they are not old and dusty, as the henna will most likely be stale and offer little or no staining power.
The Henna Penna, right, and an example design using the Henna Penna, below
A new product is available called Henna Penna. It is a pen filled with liquid henna that you can use quite literally to draw designs on your body. It is marketed as having no artificial additives or colours, is not tested on animals, and has a double nib for ease of use. I find it very easy to use, and it gives a remarkably good stain, but only for a few days; while it is definitely not as pleasurable as mixing your own henna, it is useful for quick designs (see appendix).
How Does Henna Stain,
and How Long Will It Last?
Henna stains the skin on contact; it is an amazing dye, and even if left on for just a minute there will be a noticeable change in colour. The depth of stain, however, will vary from person to person, as will the recipe and method used for mixing and the type of henna used. The areas on the body that stain darkest and longest are those which have thicker skin, such as the soles of the feet, the palms of the hands, fingers, and toes. The areas that stain lighter shades are where the skin is thinner, such as the backs of the hands, the tops of the feet, arms, legs, back, and chest. Areas that exfoliate quicker are also more susceptible to lesser staining power. It can also depend on your body temperature or metabolism, and whether your skin is acidic or alkaline, as to whether you will get a stain anywhere between pale orange to a deep red or purplish black. The chart located on the colour page in the back gives an indication of the variety of shades that can occur from henna dye.
When making your potion, you can achieve a better and deeper colour by using a mordant. This is a substance that brings out and fixes the dye in the henna and intensifies the colour, making it longer lasting. These ingredients are high in terpene, which is a chemical in the plant that makes them a powerful mordant, and they are used in the process called terping, where the henna paste is left to stand, often for many hours, to release the dye.
Mordants, or ingredients used to help release the dye in the henna, include lemon juice, essential oils, coffee, cloves, etc.
The most common mordants are:
Citrus Fruits: Lemons, limes, or grapefruit
Essential Oils: Eucalyptus, tea tree, camphor, pine, cajeput, frankincense, ravensara, geranium, lavender, lemon, lime, grapefruit
Spices, Herbs, or Juices: Coffee, tea, cloves, fenugreek, paprika, pomegranate juice, cardamom
These ingredients are often experimental, and I would only use one or two at a time. Some of the oils can be irritating to the skin and must be used with caution. I always recommend doing a small patch test with any mixture, either discreetly just behind the ear or in the crook of the elbow, leaving the patch to develop over twenty-four hours. This should give adequate time to demonstrate any adverse reaction. If you have very sensitive skin, it is probably best to avoid everything except maybe the lemon juice.
Making a good henna paste is often a case of trial and error, and it is fun to experiment with different quantities and types of ingredients. You will need to play around with developing times for the paste—some henna powder, such as Moroccan henna, releases its dye very quickly, but others may need varying standing times. Part of the beauty of henna decoration is the time and effort put into it; it is definitely not a process to be rushed and can become a deeply meditative pastime.
Getting Started
Firstly, a few precautions:
Henna and Children: Do not use henna on children under five, as its use for large applications (e.g., palm, head, etc.) has been linked to blood cell depletion leading to hyperbilirubinemia. In the case of children with G6PD (glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase) deficiency, henna can cause serious risk of illness or death and should be avoided.
Henna and Pregnancy: Although henna is generally believed to be safe to use during pregnancy, it is always worth asking a healthcare professional for advice. If you have had any previous problems with sensitivity to henna, then it is probably wise to avoid its use—and this applies to pregnant women who are applying henna as well.
Always remember that essential oils should not be used during the first three months of pregnancy, and for the second and third trimesters only use those that are safe for application during this time. Avoid lying on your back, as it can be uncomfortable and you may not be able to adjust your posture adequately with a belly covered in henna. Sitting upright, propped up with cushions, will probably be the most comfortable position. Henna has been used ritually to celebrate the growing life and the joys of pregnancy for many hundreds of years, and it is considered to be a safe and beautiful practice.
Henna Quality: Make sure that the henna you buy is of the highest quality—preferably organic if you can find it. Unfortunately, some manufacturers are still adding illegal or dangerous substances to henna powder either to give it a better colour or to cover up the use of stale powder. Bearing in mind that henna application will need to remain on the skin for anywhere between one and twenty-four hours, you should only expose yourself to a pure product. Never use henna that is packaged or labeled as hair dye or is classed as compound henna (unless it states that it is body-art quality henna), as this can contain anything from metallic salts to PPD and cannot be guaranteed safe for skin use.
Essential Oils: When using essential oils either to strengthen the colour or as a magical correspondence, always use aromatherapy-grade oils only—do not use oils classed as fragrance oils, such as those often sold with oil burners, as these are often synthetic and may cause skin irritation. In chapter 8, I list various oils in the recipes that correspond with the desired result.
Sensitive Skin: Henna application for those with sensitive skin should be carefully done—the lemon juice and/or essential oils may be too strong and cause a reaction. Use caution and experiment gently to find a suitable mix. Please use your common sense and apply a small skin-patch test before doing any large designs.
Storing Your Henna: Store your henna in an airtight container—you can use plastic tubs, zipper resealable plastic bags like Ziploc, or a good screw-top glass jar—and keep it away from direct sunlight. Premixed henna paste or good-quality fresh henna powder can be stored in the fridge or freezer. If freezing, make up small batches using plastic bags, bottles, or cones, which can be defrosted as required. Henna should remain good for several months in the freezer or several days in the fridge without losing its staining power.
Equipment for applying henna
Equipment
Here is what you will need for henna mixing and application:
- Finely sifted henna
- Cones, carrot or frosting bags, and/or a jacquard bottle and metal tips
- Essential oils—aromatherapy-grade oils only
- Lemon juice (strained if fresh, but bottled is just as effective)
- Cloves, tea, coffee, etc.
- Sugar
- A pair of plastic or latex gloves
- A glass bowl
- A saucepan to heat up any spices or tea/coffee you are using
Cones, Bottles, and Brushes
You will also need to choose a method of applying the paste. There are several different methods used around the world; in India, they tend to use a cone (a bit like a cake frosting bag). These are usually made from Mylar, or plastic, tissue or florists’ cellophane, which you can buy in sheet form or ready-made as a cone from many of the stockists listed at the back of the book. They are fairly simple to make once you have your plastic.
You will need:
- Cellophane/Mylar
- Scissors
- Scalpel or craft knife
- Cutting board or similar
- Sticky tape
Making a cone out of plastic sheeting
Cut the plastic into 5 x 7-inch rectangles and then take the right corner and fold it back to the middle to create the point of the cone (see above, top right). Roll the cone until you get the right width, then roll over the flat sheet to your left to make a complete cone, adjusting the shape until you get a suitable point. Once you are satisfied with the shape, tape down the “tail” corner left over near the tip of the cone. You can also tape along the point so that it keeps its shape and add two more bits of tape along the length of the cone. For instructions on filling your cone, see page 175.
Also available are carrot bags, which are very similar to cake-decorating bags and are brilliant to use for filling cones and bottles. I have found they are pretty good for applying henna as well; all you need to do is fill the bag with henna paste, tie just above the line of the henna, and snip a tiny piece off the end of the cone. Be cautious about cutting the hole, as it is always easier to cut a bit at a time than end up cutting too much off and finding that your henna pours out. The bag can then be held like a pen or in the fist, whichever is easier and more comfortable, and squeezed gently to produce a fine stream of paste.
A bottle is simplest to use but will require some practice
In Morocco, the seqaasha (henna painters) use a syringe with the point of the needle taken off to produce a blunt nib. In Tunisia, a stick is used, similar to that used to apply kohl to the eyes. Modern Western henna artists tend to favor the cone or what is known as a jacquard bottle. Commonly used for silk painting, it is a plastic bottle with a long nozzle or metal nib and is widely available from craft shops or via the Internet; the metal nibs come in various sizes to allow a choice of thickness for the lines of the design. The bottle is simple to use but will need some practice, and for large designs a cone may be more comfortable to squeeze.
You could even experiment using a paintbrush. This is not a method for purists but would be fun to try if you don’t feel confident using the cone or bottle at first.
The choice of application is a matter of trial and error, and I would recommend trying them all to see which one you are most comfortable with and which also produces the best results.
Henna Recipes
A Step-by-Step Guide to Mixing Your Paste
There are literally hundreds of different recipes for making henna paste from all around the globe, some of which are closely guarded secrets, but below are some simple recipes that should produce a good paste. Some experimentation is often necessary, and it is a good idea to do a very small patch test to determine colour and/or any skin irritation that may rarely occur. The beauty of preparing the henna paste is that you can continue to add your own little touches to find out what works best for you. Henna may differ with each batch, depending on where your henna comes from and how it is treated, so the colour and consistency of the powder may vary.
The henna powder needs to release its dye, and this can take a number of hours but can also be helped along by adding the various mordants mentioned previously.
Make sure you have obtained finely sifted fresh henna; see the stockists at the back of the book so that you can be assured of the finest quality henna. If the henna is not fresh, it will not stain well, so ensure that you buy some that is from a recent crop. If you do need to sift the henna to remove any debris such as stalks, bits of leaves, etc., use an old stocking wrapped over a cup or glass. Put a tablespoon of henna at a time on top of the stocking, and gently shake or stir the powder so that it falls through into the glass; when you have the required amount, carefully remove the stocking and tip the sifted henna into a bowl. Using a plastic or glass bowl is preferable to a metal one, as sometimes the lemon juice in the mix can react and either tarnish the bowl or leach metal into the henna paste.
Really Simple Henna Paste
This is a good starter recipe, as it is easy to get the right consistency and volume, and it is also suitable for those with sensitive skin. The sugar gives the paste a good consistency and helps it to flow from the applicator. It also slows down the drying rate and therefore should prevent cracking. The lemon juice alters the pH balance of the henna, assisting in the darkening process. This particular method is also good if you just want to add specific corresponding zodiacal, elemental, or magical oils, as the ingredients will not clash with other oils and the fragrance should be pleasant and quite noticeable.
This gives enough paste for one large design or several small ones. If you wish to double up on quantity, you can always freeze some (good for several months) or put some in the fridge (good for several days). To freeze your henna, either scoop it into a plastic bottle, plastic bag, or cone; you may wish to double-bag it if you are worried it might leak. When defrosting your henna, pop it into a small jug of hot water until it softens, and then leave it to cool before applying it to the skin.
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons finely sifted henna
- Strained juice of 1 large lemon or 2–4 tablespoons bottled juice
- 1 teaspoon sugar
To Mix
Add henna powder and sugar to a glass or ceramic bowl (avoid a plastic bowl, as it will stain, unless you are going to use it regularly for henna), and add some of the lemon juice. Mix the powder, adding liquid as necessary, until you get a whipped cream consistency that is completely mixed, with no dry pockets of powder.
Mixing the paste, top; covered paste left to develop, above; and filling the cone, right
Note: now is the time to add any herb, spice, powder, liquid, or oil if you are doing a specific spell. But if you just need a basic paste, carry on . . .
When you are happy with the feel of the mix, cover the bowl with cling wrap and leave in a warm place for six to twenty-four hours.
When the dye has released, scoop the henna into a bottle or cone. The release of dye can be checked by uncovering the bowl and checking for a brown layer on the top of the paste; if you scoop off this layer, the greenish paste will show underneath. Alternatively, if you already have put your henna into a plastic cone or bag, lay a piece of kitchen paper, or a paper towel, underneath the plastic, and when the dye has released there will be a slight orangeish stain on it where the dye has seeped through the bag or cone.
How to Fill Your Cone or Bottle
Placing the empty cone in a glass or cup helps keep the cone upright and will allow you to use both hands while filling. Fill the cone roughly one-half to three-quarters full with the henna paste, which is approximately 2–3 tablespoons.
Holding the filled cone in one hand, with the other hand gather the plastic at the open end and carefully twist it just above the level of the paste. Securely wrap a rubber band around it, fold over the end, and tape it down. To allow the paste to flow out the end of the cone, cut a tiny piece off the tip—don’t cut much to begin with, as it is often easy to overestimate how big a hole you will need, and you may end up with a “whoosh” of henna flooding out (which is then impossible to rectify, and you will have wasted a cone). Test the rate of flow on a piece of paper, and if necessary snip a small amount off again.
To fill your bottle, scoop or squirt the paste into the bottle using a spoon or filled cone. If you want to be safe, pop the bottle into a glass to catch any spills or stop it from falling over.
Terpene-Rich Henna Paste
Note: You will need to premix this paste at least a day before you need to apply the henna (unless you are making a batch to freeze), as it can take 24–48 hours for the dye to fully develop.
This mixture contains the terpene-rich essential oils or spices that really bring out the colour, but it should only be used for those without sensitive skin.
If you are doing a spell or charm using corresponding oils, see if there are some that are in the mordant list (see page 165); if not, it may be better to use the really simple henna paste recipe on page 173 to avoid wrong correspondences—or a revolting fragrance!
Ingredients
- 2–3 tablespoons finely sifted henna
- 1 teaspoon sugar or honey
Here comes the alchemy…experiment and create your own magical brew! All these ingredients are either sugars, acids, tannins, or plant dyes and can improve the colour and consistency of your paste. Do remember that if you add more powder to the henna, the liquid ratio will need to be increased, and vice versa. The resulting paste needs to be the consistency of thick whipped cream, so use your judgment and add powder/liquid as necessary. The beauty of making the paste is that it is a magical process in itself—use your intuition and just play with the various ingredients until you get the best paste and the best stain.
You can add any or several of these to your henna and sugar:
- Lemon, grapefruit, or lime juice
- Tamarind paste
- Pomegranate juice or syrup
- Coffee or black tea, brewed for several hours or overnight
- Cardomom, powdered
- Cloves steeped in tea or water and simmered until you get a nice strong liquid
- Red wine
- Vinegar
- Hibiscus tea
- Ginger, fresh or powdered (if using fresh ginger, simmer in water for an hour and strain)
- Paprika
- Citric acid
- Flowers, herbs, and powders for ritual use (see chapter 5)
When you have mixed your paste, cover the bowl with cling wrap and leave for several hours. After 4–8 hours, you can add your essential oils for terping or ritual use (see chapter 5).
Add the essential oils—5–10 drops per tablespoon of paste—mix well, cover the bowl, and leave for a further 12 or so hours. To try the staining power of the paste, you can always dab a spot on your palm and leave it for a minute to see if it gives an immediate stain. You can then proceed with filling your cone or bag.
Adding the essential oil
The following henna paste recipe is from expert henna artist Farah Khan.
A full arm design by expert henna artist Farah Khan
Farah’s Recipe
There are hundreds of different variations of henna paste recipes in the world. This is one of my favorites. It makes good sense to source a very good quality super-sifted powder (Jamila is excellent) that comes from a recent crop. The powder should not have any bark or bits in it, but you may need to sift it yourself a couple of times. It should appear very fine.
Ingredients
- 20 grams or ¼ cup henna powder
- ½ cup lemon juice
- ½ cup black tea
- Clove oil (optional; omit if you have very sensitive skin or are going to use magical essential oils)
- Eucalyptus oil (optional; omit if you have very sensitive skin or are going to use magical essential oils)
Initially, you should mix half a cup of brewed black tea (left for ten hours) with the same amount of freshly squeezed lemon juice. Then add this mixture to the sieved henna and leave up to three hours. It should be the consistency of custard or icing sugar—just slowly add more lemon juice to get to that state. After about five hours, the henna should be ready. Just before you cone up, add seven drops of clove oil and seven of eucalyptus oil and mix well.
Lemon and Sugar Glaze
Last but not least, when you have finished your design, you need to fix it with a lemon and sugar glaze. This will help preserve the decoration by keeping the henna on the skin and will also bring out the colour even more.
Ingredients
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 2 teaspoons lemon juice
Add the two ingredients together, stir to dissolve the sugar, and use as needed. To apply, dab the glaze onto the skin with a cotton ball or tissue.
There is also a product called New-Skin that creates a breathable, protective layer on the skin and is normally used for keeping wounds clean; however, it is also useful for covering dried henna designs.[1]
Applying Your Design
A Step-by-Step Guide
Preparing the Skin for Decoration
You will need to make sure that the area of skin you wish to decorate is free from any oil, lotions, or other substances and has been exfoliated to remove any rough skin. You can either wash the area you are going to henna thoroughly using plain soap and water or use an alcohol wipe or lemon juice to remove any traces.
It helps to be warm when you have a henna decoration applied—heat is a great helper in the development of the colour. Make yourself and/or the person you are decorating a big cup of hot tea; put the heat on or sit outside and allow the heat of the sun to do its stuff. In Morocco and other areas, the area of the body being decorated is often exposed to braziers of hot coals to really bring out the colour. Obviously, do be sensible and don’t allow your feet or hands to get too close to a heat source; if outside in the sun, protect yourself with a parasol or sit in the shade to avoid giving yourself sunburn or heatstroke. It may also be a good idea to time your henna session in the evening; that way, you can cover your design and then go to bed. The warmth from being tucked up will allow the henna to work its magic overnight, and you will end up with a beautiful, rich colour.
Have Everything You Need at Hand
The decorating process should be a relaxed and pleasant pastime, and the last thing you need is to keep having to dash around looking for ingredients or equipment. Also, if you are working on yourself, you will not be able to move around too much, depending on where the design is placed. You will need to be sitting comfortably, whether you are decorating or being decorated. The application and drying process can be slow, depending on the size of the design. If you are having your feet done, you will have to stay still for quite some time, otherwise you may end up trailing henna through the house. Similarly, if you are decorating your hands, you may not be able to pick up or hold anything until the design is dry. If you are in a rush or are impatient to get on, you can use a hair dryer to speed up the drying process, and then cover the design with tissue or gauze, tape it up, and pop on some cotton gloves or socks. However, it is wonderful to make the experience as enjoyable as possible, so light some candles, put on some music or a favorite movie, and even pour a glass of wine. If you wish to make it even more special, use the time to create a ritual environment using your own special objects such as corresponding incense, candles, and colours, etc.
Creating a ritual environment
Do be aware that henna can stain everything ! Don’t settle down to apply henna on your lovely cream sofa—an errant blob of mixture will be a disaster, and bits of the henna may flake off during the drying process. Make sure that any fabrics or furnishings are covered with a plastic sheet and a towel or two.
Equipment
You will need:
- Cone, bag, or bottle filled with henna paste
- Thin latex gloves
- Toilet tissue
- Cotton buds (to wipe off any errors—but be quick, henna stains rapidly!)
- Toothpicks (to help with any intricate dots of henna that need applying)
- Tiger Balm ointment (has essential oils in it that help bring out the design after the henna is removed; optional—may cause irritation to sensitive skin)
- Surgical tape
- Kitchen paper/tissues
- Cotton wool pads
- Alcohol wipes
- Lemon and sugar glaze fixative
- New-Skin liquid (can be used in place of the lemon and sugar, as it creates a moisture-proof barrier over the dried henna)
- Gauze/cotton glove or sock (to cover and protect the dried design; available from pharmacies)
- Hot water bottle or heating pad (optional—may be used to apply heat directly to the covered design, which helps bring out the colour)
How to Use a Bottle or Cone
One of the great things about the popularity of using henna means that we can use the wisdom of others to practice our art. Modernly, there are lots of ways to make the process simpler, and one of these is the jacquard bottle. Originally used for silk painting, these squeezy plastic bottles are fitted with stainless steel tips that are available from craft suppliers in three sizes, giving you the ability to create very small, delicate lines or bolder lines for filling in. A gentle pressure on the bottle produces a perfect and consistently even line of henna, so they are especially suitable for beginners, as they do not require special skill for use.
Cones need slightly more practice, but they give precision control and the finest lines possible. To use, hold the cone by resting it comfortably between your thumb, palm, and first finger, and slowly squeeze it with the palm of your hand and fingers to establish an even line of paste. You may find it easier to support the cone with your other hand and/or rest the weight of your “drawing” hand on the little finger, which will help maintain a steady line. It is best to avoid holding the cone too near the tip, as this can make it hard to control and will block the flow of paste, possibly causing the other end to explode! As the cone empties, hold it gently by the end and roll the elastic band carefully downwards towards the tip—this will allow for a continual flow of paste as you work.
Equipment needed for henna application
Using a jacquard bottle, left; and using a cone, below
Whichever method you use to apply the henna, it is advisable to start with simple designs and practice, practice, practice. If you don’t feel confident about applying the henna directly on your skin, practice on some paper first or on an area of your body that is not immediately visible. You can also use an eye pencil, a stencil, or transfer paper if you want to ease into using the henna or would like a guiding outline. Drawing your design on paper first is also a great way to get into the creative flow—try making a scrapbook of your designs and keep them for future use or for tracing onto transfer paper.
Using an Eye Pencil
This is a really good way of marking out your design before applying the henna. Use a brown eyeliner or eyebrow pencil to sketch out your pattern; you’ll find it is easy to rub off if you get a wonky line.
Using Stencils
Stencils are easy to find in Middle Eastern or Indian shops and are simple to use. They are usually made from a flexible rubber material and are faintly tacky so that they can stick to the skin. The best way to use them, once you have positioned it on the skin, is to slap henna paste all over the stencil, leave it to dry, and peel it off. They probably won’t give such an intricate design, but for beginners, they are fun to use.
Using Transfer Paper
Transfer paper is really useful if you want to attempt complex patterns or are just not confident about trying freehand application. You can either trace a pattern you like or print one from the computer and then copy it onto the transfer paper. Using a deodorant stick, “glue” the inked side of the transfer paper onto your skin and smooth it down. The ink then transfers the pattern to your skin, and you should have a ready-made outline to apply your henna to.[2]
Applying the Henna
Hold the cone or bottle between your thumb and first finger as if holding a pen and touch the tip of the nib/cone to the skin, using it to draw an outline of your design; you can then fill in the details one bit at a time. It may take awhile to get used to the flow of the henna, so just keep practicing. There are various henna tutorials on the Internet site YouTube that are useful to watch so that you can see the actual henna application process in real time.
Preserving Your Work
After you have created your design, you will need to fix it using the lemon juice and sugar glaze. Dab the mixture onto the touch-dried henna design with a cotton ball. This can be repeated several times, allowing the glaze to dry in between. The glaze not only helps to bring out the colour (via the lemon juice) but keeps the henna flexible (sugar), so it should not crack or flake off during the staining process.
Applying fixative and covering the design
The finished design!
When you have finished applying the glaze, let the design dry naturally or use gentle direct warmth, then cover your dried design. There are a few ways you can do this. One way is to secure layers of toilet paper or tissues over the henna using surgical tape; another is to put a layer of gauze or just a layer of tape over the design. Whichever method you use, it is important to fix it securely and to keep the design warm and dry for at least eight hours. Of course, you can cover it with clothing, a glove, or a sock, depending on where you have been hennaed. You can even apply a hot water bottle or heating pad to the area to encourage the depth of colour.
When you unwrap the design, make sure you don’t flake bits of henna all over an area that may stain. Carefully unpeel the tape and remove all tissue or gauze, and then gently scrape off the dried henna using your fingernail, a blunt blade, or a dry piece of towel; do not use water. You should now have a lovely henna design ranging from orange to red to reddish brown.
After you have removed the henna, try not to get it wet for at least twelve hours. The colour will keep developing for up to forty-eight hours after removal of the paste and will reach its peak, after which it will gradually lighten but last anywhere from two to four weeks. Although the henna penetrates several layers, the skin continuously regenerates and so the design will gradually fade, so it is useful to rub a little body oil or lotion regularly over the area, as this will not only protect it from moisture but will keep the skin supple and less likely to shed as quickly.
Do not despair if your design is not exactly as you would wish it to be; keep experimenting and practicing, and you will soon be a henna pro. Should you wish to know more about becoming a professional henna artist, please refer to “The Henna Page” entry in the appendix.
Removing Henna Stains
As henna stains so quickly, it is often difficult to remove it from the skin in the first day or so. However, there are ways to accelerate the fading process. If it is a tiny dot, you can probably scrub it off immediately with only a little residual stain. However, if your design goes horribly wrong and you wish to remove it, wipe the henna off as quickly as possible if it is still wet. If the design has already dried, then gently rub olive oil and/or an exfoliant (such as sea salt, sugar, or any face scrub) into the skin, which can help remove any dead skin cells. If you do not have overly sensitive skin, soak a cotton bud or swab in a hydrogen peroxide solution and rub over the stain. These may not remove the dye completely, but they should speed up the fading process.