Rye Bread

When our grandparents and great-grandparents left the Old Country for the New, they brought their love of rye with them. Rye bread became a staple in Polish, Russian, and probably German Jewish homes for two main reasons: Rye flour was easy to find and it was less expensive than wheat flour. Thus the “Jewish rye” was born: specifically a rye seasoned with caraway seeds. All three of us remember going to the local Jewish bakery as kids and ordering two rye loaves—one seeded, one not.

Our recipe will remind you of your grandparents’ rye—slightly sour, seeded, and with a great chew. The beer adds the Old Country fermented flavor, and since you only use 1 cup, the baker gets to finish the rest of the bottle. A QUICK NOTE: Rye flour has significantly less gluten than wheat flour, so don’t expect a light or airy dough. This bread slices easily and will keep very well for a few days.

MAKES 2 MEDIUM LOAVES

1 package dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)

1 tablespoon sugar

¾ cup warm (105°F) water

1 cup dark beer

3 cups medium rye flour

3 cups unbleached all-purpose or bread flour, plus more for dusting

1 tablespoon table salt

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon grapeseed or canola oil, plus more for oiling the bowl

3 tablespoons caraway seeds, plus more for sprinkling

Semolina flour or cornmeal, for dusting

1 egg white mixed with 2 teaspoons cold water

In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast and sugar over the warm water. Allow the yeast to activate (the mixture will bubble), 5 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring the beer to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat and allow the beer to cool to room temperature (you want the beer to be flat.)

In a large bowl, combine the rye and all-purpose flour with the salt and stir. In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine the yeast mixture with the flat beer, honey, and oil. Switch to the dough hook. Mixing on low speed, begin adding the flour mixture 1 cup at a time, about 4 minutes. The mixture will become very stiff; you’ll need to add the last of the flour by hand.

Transfer the mixture to a floured work surface and knead until the dough is smooth and no longer sticky. Spread the dough out and knead in the caraway seeds, 1 tablespoon at a time, until they are fully integrated.

Grease a large bowl with grapeseed oil. Roll the dough in the bowl so it’s coated with oil. Cover with a damp towel and allow the dough to rise in a warm, draft-free place until it’s doubled in size, 2 to 3 hours, depending on air humidity.

Punch the dough down, halve it, and form each half into an oval loaf. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Sprinkle semolina or cornmeal on the parchment to coat the bottom of the loaves. Place the loaves on the sheet at least 4 inches apart.

Whisk the egg white and water together and brush on the loaves to glaze. Allow to rise, uncovered, in a warm, draft-free place until the dough doubles again, 1 to 2 hours. For a shiny, firm crust, reglaze about every 30 minutes during this rise.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Brush one last time with the egg wash and sprinkle the loaves with additional caraway seeds. Bake the bread for 15 minutes, lower the heat to 375°F, and bake until the loaves sound hollow when tapped (an internal temperature of 190°F), about 15 minutes. Cool the bread on a rack for 40 minutes.