Stracciatella

In Italian, stracciatella means “little rags.” This lovely soup was so named because of the raggedy egg strands running through it. In our preparation, we allow the eggs to set for a couple of minutes resulting in pillow-like strands. Chances are most of the ingredients are already in your pantry, which makes it an easy, any-time dish to put together. The classic is made with chicken stock, but our vegetarian version uses vegetable consommé.

SERVES 4

1 extra-large egg plus 2 whites, or 4 extra-large egg whites

6 cups Vegetable Consommé (here) or vegetable stock

1 bay leaf

2 cups packed baby spinach, stems removed, cut into thin ribbons

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

⅓ cup grated Parmesan, plus more for serving

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ lemon, sliced thinly

In a small bowl, whisk the egg and egg whites (or whites only) until frothy and well combined.

In a medium saucepan, combine the consommé and bay leaf and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 3 minutes and turn off the heat. Add the egg mixture all at once, immediately cover the pot, and allow the eggs to cook for 5 minutes. Don’t stir the soup.

Using a small whisk, break up the egg strands. Stir in the spinach, parsley, and Parmesan. Cover the pan and allow the spinach to cook for 1 minute. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Remove and discard the bay leaf. Ladle the soup into 4 bowls, place a lemon half-moon in each bowl to garnish, and serve with additional Parmesan.

Vegetarian Russian Borscht

Borscht. The name itself takes you back to the Old Country. Whether or not your grandparents or great-grandparents came to this country from Russia, this updated, vegetarian version will warm your kishkas. Beets, the main ingredient, are known for their strong flavor, but here, long cooking mellows and sweetens them. We’ve added carrots and raisins for a touch more sweetness, plus potatoes and savoy cabbage, making this a substantial meal-in-a-bowl.

SERVES 8 TO 10

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

2 pounds beets, trimmed, peeled, and cut into ½-inch cubes (about 2 cups)

2 to 3 teaspoons kosher salt

9 to 10 cups vegetable stock or water or a combination

¾ pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut in ½-inch cubes (about 1½ cups)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

3 to 4 medium red onions, chopped (about 2 cups)

2 medium celery stalks, chopped

2 large carrots, peeled, sliced into ½-inch-thick half moons

1 pound cored savoy or green cabbage, chopped (about 4 cups)

2 to 4 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

2 to 3 tablespoons cider vinegar, plus more as needed

Juice of 1 lemon (2 tablespoons)

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon honey

2½ cups tomato purée

1 to 2 tablespoons raisins (optional) Freshly ground black pepper

Garnishes

Sour cream or yogurt

Chopped fresh dill

In a small skillet, toast the caraway seeds over medium heat, stirring, until lightly colored, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the seeds to a small bowl and set aside.

In an enamel or heavy-bottomed pot, combine the beets and 1 teaspoon salt with 8 cups (2 quarts) of stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, until the beets are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the potatoes and continue to simmer until the vegetables are fork-tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a medium bowl and set aside. Reserve the cooking liquid.

In a heavy-bottomed soup pot, heat the butter and oil over medium heat. Add the onions, stir to coat with the oil, and sauté for 1 minute. Add the caraway seeds and 1 teaspoon salt to taste and continue to sauté until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the celery, carrots, and cabbage. Add the reserved cooking liquid and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until all the vegetables are fork-tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the reserved potatoes and beets, dill (to taste), vinegar (to taste), lemon juice, honey, tomato purée, and raisins (if using) and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Cover the pot and simmer slowly for 30 to 40 minutes. Add more stock as needed. Adjust the seasonings, adding more vinegar if needed. Transfer the soup to bowls, garnish with the sour cream and dill, and serve.