Syrian Potato Salad (Salata Batata)

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Spice up classic American potato salad with this Syrian version. The potatoes are lightly dressed with olive oil and lemon juice and seasoned with allspice, evoking the pungent, complex aromas of a bustling Middle Eastern shuk (marketplace), like the one in Jerusalem. You’ll need to start this salad ahead of time, as the potatoes require thorough cooling in the fridge. But your patience will be rewarded when you serve the salad to your family or guests.

SERVES 8 TO 10 AS A SIDE

8 medium potatoes (about 3 pounds), Yukon Gold or Red Bliss

Dressing

⅔ cup olive oil

½ cup fresh lemon juice

1 to 1½ teaspoons ground allspice (to taste)

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Salad

1 cup finely chopped scallions, white and green parts

2 large hard-boiled eggs, cut in eighths

1 to 1½ teaspoons ground allspice

6 to 8 pitted Kalamata or Gaeta olives (optional)

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the potatoes. When the water returns to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-high and cook, uncovered, until the potatoes are tender when pierced gently with a fork, 20 to 30 minutes. Don’t let the potatoes become mushy. Drain, transfer the potatoes to a large bowl, and cover with cold water.

When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, in 5 to 10 minutes, drain, peel, and return them to the bowl. Add fresh water to cover the potatoes. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate until completely cool, about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, to make the dressing, in a jar or other container with a tightly fitting top, combine the dressing ingredients. Shake well and set aside.

Drain and halve the potatoes lengthwise. Halve each slice lengthwise again, then crosswise into ¼-inch-thick pieces, so each potato gives you 8 to 16 pieces, depending on the size.

Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl. Pour the dressing evenly over them, add the scallions, and mix gently to coat. Chill thoroughly, about 4 hours.

When ready to serve, garnish the potatoes with the eggs, allspice (to taste), and olives, if using.

Cold Minted Pea Salad

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Peas, mint, and a tart citrusy dressing make for a light and refreshing spring salad. This salad is delicious with grilled, smoked, or steamed salmon (here). It’s best to use fresh peas, available at farmers’ markets in early spring. If, however, you can only find frozen peas, buy various brands; you’ll get a visually pleasing variety of pea sizes. The sumac adds a bright, acidic touch without the use of citrus juice, which would discolor the peas and mint.

SERVES 8 AS A SIDE

Salad

3½ pounds fresh peas in the pod, shelled; or 28 ounces frozen peas, defrosted

½ pound fresh sugar snap peas, sliced diagonally into thin strips

1 cup fresh mint leaves cut into thin ribbons

Dressing

¾ cup Greek yogurt

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

¼ to ½ teaspoon sumac

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

Freshly ground black pepper

Grated zest of 1 lemon

If using fresh peas, bring salted water to a boil in a large saucepan. Fill a large bowl with ice and add enough water to make an ice bath. Add the peas to the boiling water and cook until bright green and crisp-tender, 1 to 3 minutes. Drain the peas and transfer to the ice bath. When cold, drain thoroughly and transfer to a large bowl. If using frozen peas, simply rinse under cool water, drain, and transfer to a bowl. Add the sugar snap peas and mint and toss.

To make the dressing, in a medium bowl, whisk together the yogurt, oil, mustard, sumac (to taste), salt, and pepper. Add the dressing to the salad and toss. Add the zest, toss, adjust the seasoning, and serve.