THERAPY ON THE FLY

It’s a cold, winter day in Manhattan and on the third floor of JCC Manhattan a group of war veterans are casting their fly-fishing lines across the gymnasium. They are part of a therapeutic fly-fishing program to help them heal from post-traumatic stress disorder and they needed a place to practice in the winter. Where could they practice? Enter the JCC and its commitment to repairing the world (tikkun olam). They asked and we said yes.

Tikkun olam is everyday fare at JCC Manhattan. Each Saturday morning, hundreds of underserved children learn to swim and play basketball, dance and prepare for exams through our Saturday Morning Community Partners program. Working with large and small social service agencies throughout the city, the JCC opens its doors and its facilities for free, knowing that it takes a whole city to raise all of our children to be safe and healthy.

While there are many ongoing programs and projects at the JCC that address the neediest members of the community, sometimes a crisis hits and we have to rally support. JCCs are frequently the central address in any community to respond to urgent needs. And people know it. When the devastating superstorm Sandy hit New York in 2012, hundreds of people poured into the JCC with clothing, food, and cash, realizing that though they were fortunate enough not to be affected, thousands of people needed their help. One woman and her son bought out every toothbrush in the neighborhood because they knew that often it’s life’s smallest items that matter the most.

People came and cooked thousands of meals and then traveled to Brooklyn, Staten Island, and Queens to serve them. They sorted clothing; they went door-to-door to make sure people were okay.

Whether it’s fly-fishers in the gym, city children learning how to swim in the pool, or people sharing Thanksgiving dinner after the storm, what binds us together is the understanding that we need one another and that when we come together as a community, there’s no stopping us.

Lemon Cardamom Halibut

Halibut is a dense, hearty fish that stands up to lots of flavoring. Here, the fish is marinated in a green cardamom–based mixture inspired by Indian flavoring without being too spicy or overpowering. The marinade was made one evening to serve to guests after they returned from a trip to India and were still craving those aromas and flavors. You can make the marinade, which also works well with other firm or flaky white fish (or even chicken), one or two days ahead. Serve the halibut with basmati or black rice and Chutney (see here).

SERVES 4

Marinade

⅓ cup olive oil

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

2 medium shallots, chopped (about 2 tablespoons)

2 garlic cloves, pressed or finely chopped (about 2 teaspoons)

2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon madras curry powder

¼ teaspoon coriander

⅛ teaspoon ground cloves

6 green cardamom pods, crushed

1½ pounds halibut or cod fillet, cut into 4 equal-size pieces

1 lemon, quartered and seeded

Combine all the marinade ingredients in a large glass bowl and whisk to blend.

Add the fish pieces to the marinade, turn to coat, and marinate at room temperature for 20 minutes.

Preheat the broiler. Transfer the fish to a rimmed baking sheet and broil 3 inches from the heat source until cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. (You can keep the cooked fish in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes before serving.) Transfer to a serving dish, drizzle with any extra marinade from the pan, and serve with lemon quarters.

Pan-Seared Branzini

This simple, bright dish allows us to pretend we’re on the Mediterranean in Italy or Greece. The fish, flavored with fennel, lemon, and herbs, is pan-seared, oven-finished, and then drizzled with olive oil—that’s it. You’ll need one large ovenproof heavy skillet—well-seasoned cast-iron is best—or two smaller ones. Make sure you have enough room in the pan or pans so the fish can sear without steaming. Don’t fret if the fish skin tears a bit when you turn it in the pan. With a bit of practice, and a thorough brushing of olive oil, it will get easier. This is great served with Celery Root and Potato Purée (here), Garlic Mashed Potatoes (here), or barley risotto (here).

SERVES 4

4 branzini (about 1 pound each) with heads and tails on, scaled and gutted

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 medium fennel bulbs, very thinly sliced, fronds reserved

2 lemons, halved lengthwise, each half cut into eight slices

¼ to ½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Leaves from 4 fresh thyme sprigs

1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing and drizzling

½ to 1 cup white wine

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Wash and dry the fish well. Cut 3 diagonal slits into 1 side of each fish. Season the inside of the fish with salt and pepper. Place 2 to 4 fennel slices and a few whole fronds inside the cavity of each fish. In each slit insert a lemon wedge, some parsley, and a few leaves of the thyme.

Brush both sides of the fish well with olive oil then lightly season the skin with salt and pepper.

Preheat one 14-inch ovenproof skillet (or 2 smaller ones, each large enough to hold 2 fish) over medium-high heat. When the skillet is hot, add just enough oil to coat the bottom, 1 to 2 tablespoons. Carefully place the fish in the skillet, slit sides down, alternating head to tail. (If using 2 pans, divide the oil between both and place 2 fish in each.) Leave the fish untouched until the skin is nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Carefully turn the fish using 2 spatulas if necessary. Cook on the other side until browned, 3 to 4 minutes.

Remove the skillet(s) from the heat. Add enough of the wine to just cover the bottom of the skillet(s), avoiding the crisped skin as you pour. Transfer the skillet(s) to the oven to finish cooking, about 5 minutes (the fish will feel firm to the touch).

Remove the skillet(s) from the oven and let sit for 5 minutes. Drizzle with additional olive oil and serve from the skillet(s).