Kanto region: around Tokyo
Tokyo is situated in Kanto, the most built up and prosperous of all the prefectures in Japan. The prefecture has a great transportation network, with many spots not far away, making Tokyo a perfect base from which to do some side trips on a budget. The highlight is of course Mount Fuji, a great challenge that any traveler should tick off their bucket list. Other highlights include the relaxing hot spring town of Hakone, the spiritual temple town of Nikko and Tokyo’s little brother city of Yokohama. The multiple discount transportation passes are perfect for budget travelers.
Discount pass: JR Tokyo Wide Pass
Most of the spots in this chapter have discount transportation passes of their own, but if you want to do many of them in a short amount of time, the JR Tokyo Wide Pass may be worth a look. It allows unlimited use of JR trains (and a few partner lines) in the Kanto prefecture for three consecutive days, including use of Shinkansen and limited express trains. The pass is available from a JR Travel Service Center in any major station in Tokyo or Yokoyama, plus Narita and Haneda airports. Note the pass is for those with visitor visas only.
The JR Tokyo Wide Pass covers most of the places in this chapter. It provides access to Kamakura, Kawagoe, Nikko, Omiya and Bonsai Village and Yokohama. It would be possible to visit one of these each day, so have a look and see which take your fancy. The pass does not include the unlimited use of local transportation in these areas, which the individual passes for tourist areas do. The following spots require a short journey on a train line or bus not covered by the pass: Hakone (310 yen extra from Odawara station) and Mount Fuji (2100 yen extra from Kawaguchiko station). In conclusion, if you are in a rush and want to really pack in lots in those three days, this pass is worth it, but otherwise it’s probably easier and cheaper to get each area's own discount pass, or individual cheap local or express train tickets. Adults 10000 yen, children 500 yen
Yokohama (横浜)
Actually the second largest city in Japan and only 30 minutes from Tokyo, Yokohama has long since become part of the grand metropolis. What sets this city apart is its port and the rich history of foreign culture and trade. Makes for a fun day trip, especially if you have already done lots of Tokyo before. When you arrive, head to the nearest tourist information center and pick up one of their large maps. If you are using the Minato Mirai Line, our recommended spots are shown, but it also features seasonal walking routes.
Discount pass: Minato Mirai Line One Day Pass
The best way to get to and around Yokohama. Minato Mirai Line One Day Pass allows visitors to use the Minato Mirai Line an unlimited amount of times in Yokohama, plus use of a return ticket from Shibuya in Tokyo on the Tokyu Line if required. If you don’t want to walk around all day (distances can be large here) and want to save time by using the trains, this is a great pass. If you really love walking a lot, you could just walk around Yokohama with a map from the tourist information center in the station. Buy it from the Tokyu ticket offices. From Tokyo: Adults 840 yen, Children 420 yen. From Yokohama station: Adults 460 yen, Children 230 yen
A little bit of history
Way back in 1859, Yokohama was a small village of 600 when it opened its first port. The city from then on started to blossom as a modern trading post, in particular in the export of Japanese tea and silk. The Great Kanto Earthquake destroyed much of Yokohama in 1923, but it was not long before the city returned to its former glory. Devastation to the city came again in World War Two and the city was initially slow to redevelop. Thankfully Japan’s economic boom came along in the 80s and 90s, triggering rapid growth and leading to a very modern, clean city.
Things to do
Minato Mirai 21 District
The following are all near Minato Mirai station on the Minato Mirai Line:
Cupnoodles Museum (カップヌードルミュージアム)
A strange but wonderful museum. From the first chicken noodles, to the hundreds of current variations, this museum is all about instant noodles and their inventor, Momofuku Ando. There is also a world noodle food court, strange noodle-based art and a noodle kitchen to make your own custom noodles. A real ‘only in Japan’ experience, and fun for all the family. Adults 500 yen, Children FREE • 10am-6pm (closed New Year holidays and Tuesdays. When Tuesday is a holiday, closed the following day) • Google Maps
Yokohama Cosmo World (コスモワールド)
Much cheaper, and more nostalgic, than going to Disney World. Visitors can buy individual ride tickets to keep costs down at this compact theme park, with a water ride, roller coaster, Ferris wheel and game arcades. FREE entry (rides 300-700 yen) • Weekdays 11am-9pm, weekends 11am-10pm (closed Thursdays) • Google Maps
Yokohama Red Brick Warehouses (横浜赤レンガ倉庫)
Back in the 1920s, these mega brick warehouses were the Customs Inspection House for boats coming into the harbor. It has since been converted into a hip area for families and tourists. Best for budget travelers are the frequent festivals, usually on weekends, such as October Beer Fest in autumn, ice skating in the winter and free concerts in the summer. FREE • 10am-7pm • Google Maps
Yokohama Museum of Art (横浜美術館)
A wide, but manageable collection of art. The main sections have late 19th century works from artists such as Milo, Picasso and Dali, while others feature artists with ties to Yokohama. Features excellent English explanations and children's workshops, plus occasionally has free access days. Adults 500 yen, high school children and above 300 yen, elementary and under 100 yen • 10am-6pm (closed New Year holidays and Thursdays if not holiday) • Google Maps • http://yokohama.art.museum/eng/index.html
Yokohama Landmark Tower (ランドマークタワー)
Get a view 273 meters above Yokohama, after enjoying a 750 meters per minute elevator. Not essential, but most travelers head up on clear days as the tower also provides stunning views over to Tokyo. Adults 1000 yen, children 200-800 yen • 10am-9pm • Google Maps
Yamashita
Head to Nihon-Odori station on the Minato Mirai Line to visit Yokohama’s famous port area:
Yamashita Park (山下公園)
Yokohama’s main park and a good spot to start your adventures. In the summer there are usually events here every week.
Osanbashi Yokohama International Passenger Terminal (大さん橋)
Very funky design for this ultramodern passenger terminal. Made of strips of wood, the winding structure is very unique piece of abstract architecture. Well worth a relaxing stroll, especially with a beer at night, watching over the city lights.
Chinatown (中華街)
Japan’s biggest Chinatown, dwarfing most others. As you walk around, there will be more than a few sellers offering free samples of Chinese snacks or drinks, but maybe not as many bargains as you may be expecting. Budget travelers should completely avoid going to the restaurants on the main street as they have a bad reputation for charging tourist prices, but some of the side streets can be more reasonable.
Motomachi (元町)
A nice area featuring lots of registered historical buildings, parks and churches. Feels like a mix between Japan and Europe. Some of the buildings charge a small fee for entrance, but there are plenty of free options, so no need to pay unless you are particularly into the history and architecture of Yokohama. There are more than a dozen such buildings and sites to see, but here are the best spots to check out:
Ehrisman Residence
Finished in 1926 as the residence of Fritz Ehrismann, a prominent exporter and importer of sought-after products like silk. His vast wealth allowed him to commission Antonin Raymond to design the building, who was considered to be a master of modern architecture at the time. FREE • 9:30am-5pm (6pm in summer) (closed New Year holidays) • Google Maps
Yokohama Foreign General Cemetery
Often closed, but have a look to see if it’s open when you are there. Back when Commodore Perry came to Japan in 1854 with several warships to force the country to open up to trade, one of his marines perished. This cemetery was therefore formed as a burial ground for Americans, and other foreigners after this incident. FREE • Noon-4pm (normally closed, but open on weekends and holidays Mar - Dec) • Google Maps
Berrick Hall
The local residence of British trading merchant B.R. Berrick, this building was constructed in 1930. It later served as the dormitory for an international school, but since 2000 has been open to the general public. Once you get here, you will soon realize why it is such an in-demand wedding venue, with its picturesque grounds and classic interior. FREE • 9:30am-5pm (6pm in summer) (closed New Year holidays) • Google Maps
Bluff No. 234
Prettily lit up in the evening, this building dates back to 1927, when it was an apartment for the new foreigners entering via Yokohama Bay. Detailed panels help to enlighten guests about the history of the area. There are also some other free ‘Bluffs’ around the area. FREE • 9:30am-5pm (6pm in summer) (closed New Year holidays) • Google Maps
Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum
We sure did stuff ourselves here. Calling itself a “ramen amusement park”, this museum is a fantastic way to try various types of Japanese noodles. Portions can be small, but the usually lower prices should allow you to try out a few, including giving the crazier, and spicier, varieties a try. Nine ramen shops inside. Adults 300 yen, children 100 yen, under 6 FREE • 11am-11pm • Just north of Shin-Yokohama station • Google Maps
Volunteer guides and tours
Kanagawa Good Will Guide Club - http://www.ksgg.org/index.html
Offers a guided tour along Yokohama waterfront, so includes all the highlights. Try to book more than two weeks in advance.
Budget food
Yokohama is quite spread out, so if you do come across somewhere cheap, and it’s around time to eat, grab the chance and head inside. Having said that, there is a high concentration of convenience stores here.
Yokohama World Porters
There are a few cheap spots in Yokohama World Porters shopping mall, opposite the Cup Noodle Museum in Minato Mirai (Google Maps):
Saizeriya (サイゼリヤ) - Light Italian dishes, such as a small pizza or pasta dish. Pizzas from 390 yen, pasta from 399 yen • 10am-11pm
Ofukuya Ramen (大ふく屋) - Classic ramen, lots of varieties to choose from. Ramen from 780 yen • 11am-10:30pm
Steak Mountain (鉄板ステーキチャーハン) - Steaks on fried rice. Plates from 790 yen • 10:30am-9pm
Landmark Tower
There is a large selection in Landmark Tower, as well as in the connected Queen's Square. Most are quite expensive, but there are a few good options for budget travelers:
Tsukemen Tetsu (つけめん TETSU) - Famous dipping noodles shop, with some super tasty soup. Meals from 780 yen • 11am-11pm
Vie De France (ヴィ・ド・フランス) - Reasonably cheap bakery and cafe, which often cuts prices in the evening. Breads from 150 yen • 7:30am-9pm
Soup Stock Tokyo (スープ ストック トーキョー) - Great if you need a light meal. Fresh new soups every day. Sets from around 800 yen • 8am-10pm
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
If you in Yokohama station, the best is Tokyu Store (東急ストア) on the north side of the building (10am-10pm). Near Chinatown, outside Motomachi-Chukagai station is Maruetsu Petit (マルエツ プチ), a large 24-hour supermarket (opposite exit 2). There are also numerous small supermarkets around.
Water bottle refill spots
Yamashita Koen has some water fountains, as does Motomachi Koen (元町公園) in the Motomachi area and the park on the coast in Minato Mirai.
Shopping
100 yen shops
Daiso (ダイソー) - Inside ‘Mark Is’ shopping mall (マークイズみなとみらい), next to Minato Mirai station (10am-8pm). There is also one outside Yokohama station, west exit, opposite Yodobashi Camera, plus on Chukagai Odori (main street in Chinatown).
Seria (セリア) - In World Portal (ワールドポーターズ), the shopping mall opposite Cosmo World in Minato Mirai. 10:30am-9pm
Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)
Matsumoto Kiyoshi (マツモトキヨシ) has a store inside Yokohama station (10am-10pm).
Recommended cheap accommodation
Hostels and guest houses
Hayashi Kaikan (Yokohama Hostel Village)
Probably the cheapest place to stay in Yokohama. Hardly the Ritz, but you can’t argue with these prices! Not totally central, but a short walk from all the action. Dorms from 2400 yen • Google Maps • http://yokohama.hostelvillage.com/en/
Hostel Zen
Another well-known hostel, which is smaller than others and seems to have a nice, friendly atmosphere. Various plans and rooms types available. Dorms from 2800 yen • Google Maps
Capsule hotels and overnight spas
Sky Spa Yokohama
Quite a selection of baths they have here! Modern, centrally located and with clean capsules to sleep in. Overnight passes from 4700 yen • In Marui City, to east side of Yokohama station • Google Maps
Spa & Capsule Hotel Grand Park-Inn Yokohama
More of a standard capsule hotel than the others, so prices are a little lower, though there are some spa facilities. In a slightly seedy area, but not in any way too much so. Capsules from 3500 yen • West side of Yokohama station, near subway exit 9. Walk to right, then take first right after a bit, then left and down • Google Maps
Manyo Club (横浜みなとみらい 万葉倶楽部)
Super fun, or relaxing, way to spend your evening, night and morning. Large variety of baths, including outside ones overlooking Tokyo Bay, game arcades, stone relaxation rooms and more. Overnighters can catch 40 winks in the lazyboy chairs, or in the tatami rooms. Overnight passes from 4500 yen • Google Maps • http://www.manyo.co.jp/mm21/eng/
Internet cafes (ネットカフェ)
The biggest collection of net cafes is on the west side of Yokohama station. It’s fun to have a look around, but go to these safe bets if you are new to net cafes:
Manbo (マンボー)
Free showers, comics and drinks. They also have other branches nearby, so ask if they are full. Five hours (5時間パック) from 1250 yen, 480 yen for additional hours • Bit tricky to get to, so use wifi in Yokohama station. Near subway exit 9 • Google Maps
Hanatato (花太郎)
Some amazing deals, especially on weekdays. Showers included, plus the usual free drinks. You can leave and come back on night packages. 13 hours night package (ナイトパック) from 2100 yen • Also tricky to get to, so use wifi in Yokohama station. Near subway exit 9 • Google Maps
How to get there and away
If on the west wide of Tokyo, it’s usually cheapest to go via Shibuya. From Shibuya station, take the Tokyu Toyoko Line to Yokohama station (30 mins, 200 yen or covered with the Minato Mirai Line One Day Pass). From Tokyo station on the east side of Tokyo, take the JR Tokaido Line to Yokohama station (30 mins, 470 yen).
Tourist information (観光案内所)
Inside Yokohama station’s central passage (9am-7pm), Shin-Yokohama station for the Shinkansen (9am-9pm) and Sakuragicho station (9am-6pm).
Nikko (日光)
Toshogu Shrine, Nikko
Probably the most impressive side trip from Tokyo, Nikko is one of Japan’s many UNESCO World Heritage sites. It’s a town full of temples, shrines, waterfall and lakes. The World Heritage area includes two shrines and a temple, but there are lots of other cheap touristy things to do as well. There are also a few non-traditional, crazy experiences, such as the Edo inspired theme park and a miniatures theme park. Excellent English language signage and maps.
Discount passes: Tobu Nikko Passes
From Asakusa in Tokyo, Tobu Railways has three kinds of passes. They are an obvious pick for budget travelers, as there is not much else in the area apart from the locations on the passes, and everything can be comfortably done in the time allowed. You can buy them at the Tobu Sightseeing Service Center in Tobu Asakusa station. The passes include unlimited use of buses (and trains if applicable) to the main spots. Because some of the areas in Nikko are quite spaced out, you will need to use the bus at least a few times. You will almost certainly save money.
Discounts included
20% off limited express tickets (only saves 30 mins or so, so not essential), 5% off at some shops in Asakusa, 10% off for purchases over 1000 yen at some shops in Nikko and discounts to over a dozen tourist spots in Nikko. Look for the logos in the pass for where you can get money off.
Nikko City Area Pass
The 2 Day Nikko Pass is the best way to visit Nikko and Kinugawa Onsen for most budget travelers. The two days provide plenty of time to see all the main shrines and temples in this UNESCO World Heritage site area. It includes a round ticket from Tokyo. Adults 2670 yen, children 1340 yen
Nikko All Area Pass
4 days are included on this pass, as well as expanded use of the bus network beyond the main tourist spots, including to the onsen towns in the north. April-November: Adults 4520 yen, children 2280 yen. December-March: Adults 4150 yen, children 2070 yen
Theme Park and Nikko City Area Pass
Similar to the Nikko City Pass, but includes tickets to one or both of the main theme parks, and use of the bus route between them. Tobu World Square + Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura: Adults 8010 yen, children 4010 yen. Tobu World Square: 4710 yen, children 2360 yen. Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura: Adults 6610 yen, children 3310 yen
Things to do
Toshogu Shrine (日光東照宮)
The most well-known World Heritage shrine in Nikko, and recently renovated. It enshrines the first Shogun of the Edo Shogunate, Tokugawa Ieyasu. This temple complex leads into the forested mountain, and will blow you away with its stunning buildings and national treasures (8 national treasures and 34 important cultural properties in total). Head up the stone stairs at the back for a cool walk up to another shrine up the small mountain. Adults 800, children 600 yen • 8am-5pm (8am-4pm in the winter) • ‘Nishi-sando’ bus stop • Google Maps
Shinkyo Bridge (神橋)
Beautiful wooden Japanese red bridge, at the entrance to the Nikko mountains. The myth goes that when a head priest, named Shodo Shonin, was not able to cross the Daiyagawa River he was helped by the gods. Two snakes appeared and constructed the bridge so he could cross. FREE • ‘Shinkyo’ bus stop, then follow signs. Walkable from nearby shrines • Google Maps
Rinno-ji Temple (日光山輪王寺)
A large temple surrounded by huge trees, this is one of the largest wooden structures in the area. Founded more than 1000 years ago, the complex features a grand hall with statues of various gods, a treasure house exhibiting statues of Buddha and other important cultural properties. Also as a Japanese garden called Shoyoen. Adults 1000 yen, children 600 yen • 8am-5pm (8am-4pm in the winter) • ‘Nishi-sando’ bus stop • Google Maps
Futarasan Temple (二荒山神社)
A quiet temple within the forests of Nikko, and a site for followers to worship nearby Mount Futarasan. It’s famous for offering good luck to those who pray in the forest-enclosed complex, for important life changes such as pregnancy or marriage. A soon as you arrive you will realize why Nikko is a World Heritage site. 200 yen • 8am-5pm (8am-4pm in the winter) • ‘Nishi-sando’ bus stop, or walk from Shinkyo bridge • Google Maps
Taiyuin Temple (大猷院)
A big complex of temple buildings in the forested mountains, this is the mausoleum of Tokugawa Iemitsu. It was constructed to face Toshogu Shrine, but in a subtle way, so as to not overshadow it. The main hall and front shrines are registered as national treasures, but explore around as there are some excellent examples of ancient craftsmanship in the various structures. 550 yen • 8am-6pm • ‘Nishi-sando’ bus stop, or walk from Shinkyo bridge • Google Maps
Kegon Waterfall (華厳の滝)
A tall waterfall not far from the center of Nikko, and the most popular. The water from Lake Chuzenji falls almost 100 meters, and the viewing platforms give a good view from below. Great any time of the year. 550 yen • 8am-5pm (9am-4:30pm in the winter) • ‘Chuzenji-onsen’ bus stop • Google Maps
Lake Chuzenji (中禅寺湖)
Created more than 20,000 years ago when Mount Nantai erupted. This 11.62 km squared lake was once surrounded by foreign embassies and estates in the Meiji period, so was known for its beauty for many years before tourists arrived. Have a walk around the lake and take some great photos to take home. FREE • ‘Tachikikannon-iriguchi’ bus stop or short walk from Kegon Waterfall • Google Maps
Ryuzu Waterfall (竜頭ノ滝)
On the north-west of Lake Chuzenji is this nice waterfall and park, a quieter spot than Kegon Waterfall. If you have time, walk up to Lake Yunoko and Yudaki Falls. FREE • ‘Akanuma’ bus stop • Google Maps
Tobu World Square (東武ワールドスクウェア)
A lighthearted, and up-to-date outdoor museum with miniature reproductions of more than 100 famous buildings and structures from across the world. Appropriately for Nikko, it includes 45 World Heritage sites at a 1/25 scale. 2800 yen (see website to check for 500 yen discount coupon), FREE with Theme Park and Nikko City Area Pass • 8am-5pm (8am-4pm in the winter) • Get bus from Kinugawa-onsen station, near to Nikko • Google Maps • https://www.tobuws.co.jp/en/
Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura (日光江戸村)
Experience the old city of Edo (former name of Tokyo), at this faithful, but fun reproduction. The houses, downtown area and ninja village are great if you need a break away from all the temples. Also interesting to see the ‘locals’ walking around, doing their daily tasks and jobs. One Day Pass: adults 4700 yen, children 2400 yen. Afternoon Pass (from 2pm, or 1pm in winter): adults 4100 yen, children 2100 yen (see website to check for 10% discount coupon), FREE with Theme Park and Nikko City Area Pass • 9am-5pm (9:30am-4pm in the winter) • Get bus from Kinugawa-onsen station, nearby Nikko • Google Maps • http://edowonderland.net/en/
Hike for free
There are plenty of hikes that start from near the town center or are a short distance from a bus stop, but there are a few real highlights. More routes can be found in the tourist information centers, where free hiking and walking maps are available.
Mount Nakimushi
Famous mountain, which can be accessed just south of the train stations. Small waterfalls, pristine forest and the religious ornaments along the way make it an enjoyable hike. Difficulty: Medium • Hike time: 4-5 hours
Lake Chuzenji
A variety of routes are available, but the South-Bank Course (starting from near Kegon Waterfall) is a nice balance of lake and hills. Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 4-5 hours
Lake Yunoko
This smaller lake is a perfect quick and easy hike, which offers views of Yudaki Falls and the nearby Onsen Shrine. Access from Yudaki Falls bus stop. Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 1 hour
Volunteer guides and tours
Utsunomiya SGG Club - http://www016.upp.so-net.ne.jp/usgg/
Provides guides for Nikko from the nearby city of Utsunomiya. This does mean you have to pay for them to come to Nikko, but it’s still a good deal if you want an in-depth experience. Apply at least two weeks in advance.
Budget food
Few budget chain restaurants in the area, presumably to keep the place more authentic. Head north up Nihon Romantic Highway from the Nikko station for a selection of restaurants, but they are quite spaced out. There are some classic tonkatsu (deep fried cutlet) and ramen joints up here, but good prices may be hard (and time consuming) to find. If you are stuck around the station, head to the supermarket for a large choice of cheap takeouts and microwavable items.
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
Lion Dor (リオン・ドール) is five-minute walk from Tobu Nikko station. Head out and then walk down the road with the post office on the right (9am-9pm). There are also a small number of convenience stores around.
Water bottle refill spots
Bring a large bottle of water from your hostel/hotel, just in case you can’t or don’t go to a restaurant with some way to refill.
Shopping
100 yen shops
meets (ミーツ) - Down the river to the north side of the station. 9am-9pm
Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)
Welcia (ウエルシア) - From the JR Nikko station, head down the road to the left of Nikko Station Hotel Classic, then take a left at the second traffic lights and walk a few minutes. 9am-9pm
Recommended cheap accommodation
Hostels and guest houses
Minsyuku Rindo-no-ie
Very cheap hostel with Japanese tatami floors and friendly customer service. Also has a large bath. Dorms from 3500 • Google Maps • http://outdoor.geocities.jp/rindoutyan/
Nikko Suginamiki Youth Hostel
Great if you are a Youth Hostel member, this place is also good for small groups. Dorms from 3360 yen • Google Maps • http://www.jyh.or.jp/e/i.php?jyhno=2208
Nikko Guesthouse Sumica
Traditional rooms with Japanese tatami mats and a really friendly atmosphere. Right next to the station, yet still some of the cheapest rates. Dorms from 2800 • Google Maps • http://nikko-guesthouse.com/en_index.html
Campsites
Nikko has a few campsites a short drive from the station, or a 15-minute walk in the case of Nikko Daiyagawa Park. None currently have English booking available, so ask someone at a tourist information center or prior accommodation to call, if you want to check availability before going. Prices are from around 2000 yen per tent site.
New Kirifuri Campsite (ニュー霧降キャンプ場) - 0288-53-4728 • http://www.kirifuri-camp.com/
Nikko Daiyagawa Park (日光だいや川公園オートキャンプ場) - 0288-23-0201 • https://www.park-tochigi.com/daiyagawa/
Manakanomori (まなかの森 キャンプ) - 0288-21-7748 • http://www.nikko-manakanomori.com/index.html
Getting around
All the Tobu Nikko passes include use of buses to the main spots. In addition to this, there are many walking routes around the town if you would prefer to get away from the crowds. These are clearly posted on the maps around town, or you can get a free hiking and walking map from the information center.
How to get there and away
From Asakusa station in Tokyo, take a Tobu Line Rapid train (2 hours) to Nikko. Free with the passes, or 2700 yen.
Tourist information (観光案内所)
In JR Nikko station (8am-5:30pm) and Tobu Nikko station (8:30-5pm), as well as 10 minutes up Nihon Romantic Highway from the stations (9am-5pm).
Mount Fuji (富士山)
Japan’s most iconic mountain, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, should be on the top of most travelers’ plans for a trip to the land of the rising sun. The highest mountain in Japan at 3,776 meters, its grand size straddles over various prefectures. It is also one of Japan’s “Three Holy Mountains” and has been the site of pilgrimage to Japanese people for centuries. In Shinto mythology, the god Kuninotokotachi is believed to reside at the top. For us mere mortals, the view from the top of Mount Fuji has to be seen to be believed. While it can get very busy, this will probably be your most memorable experience in Japan and it’s surprisingly cheap to visit. Just be sure to bring a warm coat for the chilly summit!
Yoshida Trail
Most budget travelers should take this, as getting there is cheapest. While it can be steep and challenging, even to the fairly fit, it’s a great reward to get to the views at the top. Difficulty: Medium • Hike time: 9-10 hours return • Hiking season: Around July 1 to Sept 1
When to come
The best time to arrive is in the evening. If you start heading up by 9-10pm, by the time you get to the top you should have perfect timing to watch the spectacular sunrise. It’s truly one of the most amazing sights you will ever see. Plus walking up overnight saves on having to book a room somewhere. Another tip is to come on the weekdays and outside holidays, to avoid large families with children.
Budget food
While there are some souvenir shops and restaurants around the bus stop, the prices are not so good and choice is limited for food to actually take up. Surprisingly, there are some noodle stalls up the mountain, but prices are really high and these stalls should be avoided unless you are starving. Go to a supermarket the night before and get yourself plenty of drinks and food for the long hike.
Water bottle refill spots
There are no free water fountains as you head up, and the price of drinks (yes, there is a vending machine at the top!) get very expensive, to the point that prices for drinks are about four times what they normally are at the shop on the summit.
Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)
The shops at the base have some basics, but bring any essential medicine.
Free wifi locations
There is free wifi at the information center. Wifi has also been put into huts and stalls as you progress up the mountain, and there is even wifi on the summit. Ask at the tourist information center for passwords.
Recommended cheap accommodation
There are several mountain huts on the way up, all of which charge to stay. Prices are rather high for a basic hut experience, but if you feel 8-10 hours walking all in one go is too much for you, they are worth it. Fujisan Mountain Guides can also provide a booking service in English (1000 yen), if you are having trouble finding a bed.
These two have English websites, but try to reserve as soon as possible to hold your spot. Reservations are usually taken from April.
Kamaiwa-kan (鎌岩館)
Brand new, stylish building about halfway up, so a perfect spot to have a sleep before continuing up. Can also provide basic food like curry or burgers. Bed from 5800 yen with no meals on weekdays, 8400 yen on weekends (with two meals) • 7th station • Google Maps • http://kamaiwakan.jpn.org/
Haku-un-so (白雲荘)
Very near to the summit, this hut will break your journey in half. With more than 300 beds, this place can get packed, but the prices are pretty good for the location. Food can also be provided, and there is a small shop if you have forgotten anything. Bed from 5800 yen with no meals • Just before summit • Google Maps • http://fujisan-hakuun.com/en/reservation/
How to get there and away
From Tokyo, the cheapest and fastest way is to get a highway bus from Shinjuku Bus Terminal in Shinjuku, with Keio Bus (operated May through October). You must reserve in advance at the terminal or on the Keio Bus website. The tickets cost 2700 yen (discounts may be given if you book more than a month ahead, children half price). From Kawaguchiko station in Fuji Five Lakes, Keio Bus also run regular services (2100 yen for round trip, children half price). You could use this bus if traveling on a JR Tokyo Wide Pass or national Japan Rail Pass.
Tourist information (観光案内所)
At the other end of the shopping square from the bus stop (May 1 - Oct 31, 9am-4:30pm, until 8pm July 1 - Sept 11).
Hakone (箱根)
Tokyo’s most popular side trip. There is something for everyone here, from hiking to shopping to volcano viewing and hot springs. The town is part of Fuji Hakone Izu National Park, which offers stunning views of Mount Fuji. In addition to this there are lots of standout features such as Owakudani, an eerie volcanic area with lots of yellow fumes, Lake Ashi with its pirate sightseeing boat tour and the Hakone Tozan Train which heads up the mountain. What makes Hakone stand out for budget travelers is the Hakone Free Pass, which offers unlimited transportation in the area and loads of discounts. It really makes Hakone an easy place to get around. Maps and signs are all in English as well, so no chance of getting lost hiking!
Discount pass: Hakone Free Pass
The Hakone Free Pass from Odakyu Railway is the best and cheapest way to visit Hakone. It provides unlimited use of the cable car, ropeway, tourist boats, trains and buses in the area, plus the ride from Shinjuku station and back. It also provides discounts or free access to around 50 places in Hakone. Some things in Hakone, especially the ropeway, can get super expensive if you don’t have the pass, so it’s usually a must buy for budget travelers. You can buy it at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center in Shinjuku station or at Odakyu ticket machines nearby. Two Day Pass: Adults 5140 yen, Children 1500 yen. Three Day Pass: Adults 5640 yen, Children 1750 yen.
A little bit of history
At the start of the Edo period, Hakone became a post station on the Tokaido Highway connecting Edo (the old Tokyo) with Kyoto. It became an important checkpoint on the route, which visitors can see a recreation of at the Hakone Sekisho and Checkpoint. Under the strict Tokugawa Shogunate, everyone coming in or leaving was checked and their items inspected by officials. The aim was to restrict the travel of weapons and of women. After the Meiji Restoration, Hakone slowly grew into a fully-fledged town and the Imperial household established a summer villa here, close to the lake. Visitors can also visit this.
Things to do
Owakudani (大涌谷)
A must-see in Hakone, get off at Owakudani station on the ropeway and try some ‘kuro-tamago’ (black eggs). They have been boiled in the hot spring water, so have black shells! Watch the yellowy volcanic gases blow out of the ground and the fresh hot spring water spew out over the mountain. FREE • 8:30am-5pm • Owakudani station on ropeway • Google Maps
Hakone Shrine (箱根神社)
A stunning Shinto shrine complex, starting from a red gate standing in Lake Ashi, running up into the mountain. Apparently founded in 757, the original shrine was said to reside at the summit of Mount Komagatake. It became important for samurai, who would come to pray for luck in their various endeavors. FREE • 24h • Google Maps
Hakone Detached Palace Garden (恩賜箱根公園)
The old Imperial family summer house and gardens are now free for you to roam around and take photos of. Walking up into the park gives visitors amazing views over the lake and of Mount Fuji. FREE • 9am-4:30pm • Onshi-Koen-mae bus stop (route H) • Google Maps
Hakone Sekisho and Checkpoint (箱根関所)
An authentic recreation of the old trading checkpoint and surrounding village. The people who built this utilized old carpentry and masonry techniques from the Edo period, to make sure everything looks as authentic as possible. FREE • 9am-5pm • Hakone Sekisho-ato bus stop (route H) • Google Maps
Sightseeing cruise on Lake Ashi (箱根海賊船)
A rather silly, but amusing way to get across the lake. This 18th century-style ship has been taken over by pirates, like a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean. Especially fun for anyone who likes pirate movies, but a supremely scenic mode of transportation for others! FREE with Hakone Free Pass or 1000 yen one-way • Togendai, Hakonemachi-ko and Motohakone-ko
Hakone Open Air Museum (箱根彫刻の森美術館)
A host of very imaginative and thought-provoking statues, sculptures and pieces of architecture, set in a lush, modern garden. The highlight, though, has to be the Picasso gallery, quite a rare collection outside Europe. 1600 yen (1400 yen with the Hakone Free Pass) • 9am-5pm • Chokokunomori station on Hakone Tozan Line • Google Maps
Hakone Gora Park (箱根強羅公園)
Handily located next to a convenience store if you need some more supplies, this park has a western-inspired design. A good place to unwind and have a snack before continuing up the hill. 550 yen (free with the Hakone Free Pass) • 9am-5pm • Koenshimo station on cable car • Google Maps
Hiking in Hakone
Around Komagatake and Hakone (駒ヶ岳+箱根山)
There are a few hiking courses around Mount Komagatake and Mount Hakone, which are the main mountains for tourists in Hakone. Note that due to seismic activity, routes can be closed off, so check with the tourism information centers when you get there and ask for their recommended routes. Hiking around Komagatake is an easy to access route, that takes visitors away from all the crowds and tour buses, and into a bit of nature with a closer look at some of the past volcanic activity. Difficulty: Medium • Hike time: 2-6 hours, depending on route • Owakudani (ropeway) or Sounzan station (cable car)
Old Tokaido Highway Hike
An old trading route through the forest to an ancient tea house, this is an uphill but enjoyable hike. Location well signposted from boat port and around, plus buses to take you back after. Difficulty: Medium • Hike time: 2-3 hours • Moto-Hakone bus stop (routes K, H, Y)
Cedar Tree Walk
A nice walk through an ancient cedar avenue, recommended for families or those that want a gentle walk, with no big inclines. Difficulty: Easy • Walk time: Under 1 hour • Between the Hakone Sekisho and Hakone Detached Palace Garden on the main road. After exiting the carpark of Hakone Detached Palace Garden, take a left and walk down a bit. Entrance is on the right side.
Recommended hot springs (温泉)
Tenzan Onsen (天山湯治郷 ひがな湯治 天山)
Inside a nice hotel, this hot spring has a traditional feel but all the facilities you would expect in a modern spa. Adults 1300 yen, children 650 yen • 9am-11pm (reception closes at 10pm) • Hakone Tozan (K) bus to Okuyumoto-Iriguchi bus stop. You will see two roads heading off, take the winding road on the left (heading over the river) • Google Maps
Yunessun (箱根小涌園 ユネッサン)
Not your average hot spring! This rather odd place features baths full of wine, sake or occasionally soda drinks to relax in. A good choice if you have already done an old-fashioned hot spring and want to try something a little crazy. Adults 2900 yen, children 1600 yen • 9am-7pm • Short walk from Kowakidani station on Hakone Tozan Line • Google Maps
Hotel Green Plaza (ホテルグリーンプラザ箱根)
Up in the mountains, with open-air baths that offer great views of Mount Fuji and the national park. Your skin will feel lovely and smooth due to the water’s rich sodium bicarbonate content. 1600 yen • 3pm-midnight (Fri-Tue), 3pm-midnight (Wed, Thu) • Ubako station on ropeway • Google Maps
Volunteer guides and tours
Odawara and Hakone Goodwill Guide Club - http://www.ohsgg.com/
Provides volunteer guide services in Hakone and the Odawara area, in English and other foreign languages.
Budget food
Eating out is often pricey here and most affordable accommodation comes with a shared kitchen, so most budget travelers should head to a convenience store near Yumoto-Hakone station. Otherwise there are a few reasonably-priced family restaurants near the station, but these do tend to close early. Remember it’s legal to drink outside in Japan, so grab a beer from the convenience store and chill out on the river!
Around Yumoto-Hakone station
Kanetsuki (加満幸) - Friendly atmosphere with Japanese set meals and soba, plus curry for kids and big kids alike. Plastic models outside makes it easy to order. Soba from 600 yen • 11am-6pm • Opposite the station • Google Maps
Heike (治兵衛) - Another nice joint for some simple hearty Japanese food. Sets around 1000 yen • 11am-6pm • Further down the shopping street from Kanetsuki, on the left • Google Maps
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
There's not really any cheap supermarket in central Hakone, but there is a supermarket in Odawara (station where your transfer for the train to Yumoto-Hakone station) called Odakyu OX (9am-9:30). Head out the east exit, through the bus terminal to the small triangular park in the road, then take the first right. There is also an A-Co-Op (Ａコープ) supermarket near Sengoku bus stop (9am-6pm), to the north west of central Hakone, which you can use the Hakone Free Pass to get to.
Water bottle refill spots
There are no water fountains on the hiking routes so it’s best to go to a supermarket before and buy a large bottle or fill up your own one.
Shopping
Gotemba Premium Outlets
The most popular outlet mall for people living in Tokyo or Kanto, Gotemba has all the brands you could imagine. There are more than 200 stores in the complex, plus a food court and Ferris wheel. Prices are at least a bit lower than in the city and tax-free shopping is available. A must for shopaholics. 10am-8pm (Dec to Feb until 19:00) • Free shuttle bus from Gotemba station or take a bus to Gotemba Premium Outlets (included in Hakone Free Pass).
Recommended cheap accommodation
Hostels and guest houses
K's House Hakone - Onsen Hostel
Cheap hostel chain, but this branch is a little different, with a modern hot spring and new, but traditional looking, architecture. Has a large kitchen and complimentary tea and coffee. Dorms from 3500 yen • Google Maps
Guesthouse Azito
Really great prices for private rooms at this guesthouse. This place has a bar to hang out in, plus a kitchen and Japanese tatami floors. Single rooms from 3500 yen • Google Maps
Campsites and mountain huts
Lake Ashinoko Camp Village (芦ノ湖キャンプ村)
Located on Lake Ashi (where the sightseeing cruises happen), this campsite is part of Fuji-Hakone National Park. Surrounded by trees, this campsite also has a restaurant, a small shop and a barbeque area. Tent sites from 1000 yen, car sites from 3000 yen • Reception open 11am-5pm • Near Togendai-ko ropeway station • Google Maps • http://campmura.com/ (Japanese only)
Getting around
The Hakone Tozan Train is a funny little train that takes you on a ride around and up the mountain in a zig-zagging fashion. The Hakone Ropeway and Hakone Tozan Cable car connect visitors with the Lake Ashi from the Hakone Tozan Line, offering stunning views over the mountains. All are included in the Hakone Free Pass, as is an easy-to-use bus network connecting the outlying settlements.
How to get there and away
From Shinjuku, take the Odakyu Line train to Odawara station, then the Hakone Tozan Line to Hakone-Yumoto station (90 mins).
Tourist information (観光案内所)
There is an excellent Odakyu Tourist Center in Shinjuku station, in the Odakyu Department Store building, near the Odakyu ticket gates (8am-6pm). You should also pick up a free map that includes information related to seismic activity in the area, which in the past has required detours to get to spots in Hakone. There is also a tourist information center just outside Hakone-Yumoto station (9am-5:45pm).
Kamakura (鎌倉)
Kamakura is a great day trip from Tokyo, and when combined with the Enoshima Kamakura Freepass is a really cheap way to see a more traditional area. Most tourist spots are free or only a few hundred yen (or a somewhat pointless 20 yen for the giant Buddha!). Kamakura is full of interesting shrines, and great for autumn color and cherry blossoms. It can get awfully busy at weekends and on national holidays, so avoid these days if you can.
The Great Buddha of Kamakura, also known as Daibutsu
Discount pass: Enoshima Kamakura Freepass
Provides a round trip to Kamakura from Tokyo (Shinjuku station), as well as unlimited use of trains in the area for one day. There is a lot to do in Kamakura, and most of it is connected by the train lines of this pass. You will therefore start to save money very quickly. The cost of an Enoshima Kamakura Freepass is about the same as a return ticket. Buy from the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center in Shinjuku station, or the Odakyu ticket machines in the station. The pass also provides discounts or free gifts at about 20 sites and restaurants in Kamakura. Check http://www.odakyu.jp/english/deels/freepass/enoshima_kamakura/ for the latest on offer. Adults 1,470 yen, children 740 yen
A little bit of history
Kamakura, a former capital of Japan, is an ancient city that was once as powerful as Nara and Kyoto. In 1192 warrior Minamoto Yoritomo established the first military government here, the Kamakura Bakufu. Previously the Imperial family in Kyoto held all power. The Hojo clan took over after Yoritomo's death and developed trade in the 13th century, importing Buddhism, Chinese lacquerware and Zen architecture, having a great effect on Japanese society. From the 17th century, Kamakura started to become more important as a temple city. After the war it also prospered as a popular getaway for Tokyoites, with its beaches, resorts and traditional districts.
Things to do
Daibutsu and Kotokuin Temple (大仏殿高徳院)
World Heritage-listed temple and grand Buddha bronze statue that visitors can walk up into. At a height of more than 13 meters and weighing in at about 121 tons, it’s quite a sight. Be sure to have a look around the beautiful garden behind the Great Buddha to get your money's worth. Adults 200 yen, children 150 yen, Grand Buddha 20 yen • 8am-5:30pm (Apr - Sept), 8am-5pm (Oct - Mar) • 10 mins north from Hase station on the Enoshima Electric Railway • Google Maps
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine (鶴岡八幡宮)
The main shrine in Kamakura, another must see. In 1063, the Minamoto warrior clan created a power base around Kamakura after defeating clans to the north. The leader, Minamoto Yoriyoshi, returned to Kamakura and built this shrine near the coast to give thanks to the gods for his success. The Hachiman Kami (god) is therefore regarded as the protector of the warrior class. The result is a vast complex of well-maintained Japanese shrines, bridges and gardens. FREE • 8:30am-4pm (24h at New Year) • 10 mins from Kamakura station, east exit • Google Maps
Hasedera Temple (長谷寺)
Another must see in Kamakura, Hasedera is a significant Buddhist temple. It’s said to have been here even before Kamakura was the capital in the Kamakura period (1185-1333). The temple has an 11-faced Kannon statue at around 10 meters tall, which is one of the largest wooden Buddha statues in Japan. The observation platform also has a good view of the town and sea to the south. Adult 300 yen, children 100 yen (Treasure Museum + 200/100 yen) • 8am-5pm (Mar - Sept), 8am-4:30pm (Oct - Feb), Treasury 9am-5pm (closed Tuesdays) • Short walk from Hase station on Enoshima Electric Railway • Google Maps
Zeniarai Benten Shrine
Something a little different here as statues and structures are in mini caves, or cut into the rock. Built in 1185 as a place for peace and quiet reflection, Japanese people come here to wash their money and pray for prosperity. Try this if you are a bit ‘shrined out’, or need somewhere to chill. FREE • 8am-4:30pm • 20 mins walk from Kamakura station (west exit). Head down the main road leading from the station, through the tunnel, then follow the tourist signs • Google Maps
Komachi Shopping Street
The main shopping street provides plenty of window shopping opportunities. There are lots of small, cheap Japanese candies to try as well, so as always be on the lookout for free samples! From Kamakura station, head to the left of the east exit • Google Maps
Kamakura Beaches
Picturesque beaches with greyish sand and rustic wooden buildings. Popular with surfers, there are stalls where visitors can rent out equipment and beach huts. Note that the beaches get extremely busy in summer. FREE • South of Yuigahama station on the Enoshima Electric Railway • Google Maps
Hiking trails
There are a variety of hiking trails accessible from nearby the train stations in Kamakura, with good signage in English.
Daibutsu hiking trail
Starting 350m down the road from Kotokuin Temple, this 3km trail is a nice way to escape the crowds and head up into the forests, passing the odd shrines and temple as you go. Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 1-2 hours
Gionyama hiking trail
Shorter course on the east side, Gionyama also has a cave tomb to explore, in addition to nice views of the city. Considered the easiest hiking trail here. Starts from Myohonji Temple (妙本寺), a five-minute walk from Kamakura station, east exit. Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 30 mins
Tenen hiking trail
Great hike up into the forested hills on the east side. There are several cave tombs along the way, plus this is the best trail to take during the autumn colors season. Most people start at Zuisen-ji Temple (瑞泉寺), 20 mins walk from Kamakura station, east exit (signs may point to Kamakura-gu Shrine first, which is on the way). Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 1-2 hours
Volunteer guides and tours
Kanagawa Systematized Good Will Guide Club - http://www.ksgg.org/
A variety of tours available, such as a 4 hour walking tour from Kamakura station to the main shrines and temples.
Budget food
On a hot day, getting something cheap from a supermarket or convenience store is best in Kamakura, as it’s not as built up as some places. Sadly, the choice of budget restaurants is not as good as back in the big city. But there are still a few cheap restaurants around if needed.
Around Kamakura station
Saizeriya (サイゼリヤ) - Light Italian dishes, such as a small pizza or pasta dish, this is a good spot. Pizzas from 390 yen, pasta from 399 yen • To the right side of the east exit • 10am-11pm • Google Maps
Komachi Shopping Street
In addition to the traditional restaurants down this street, there are also some cheap chain restaurants. Expect some tourist prices here, so be warned! The following are in order from Kamakura station (Komachi Shopping Street is the street to the left from the east exit):
Kaiten Misakiko (海鮮三崎港) - Cheap conveyor belt sushi. Sushi plate from 110 yen + tax • Google Maps
Komachi Tonkatsu (小満ちとんかつ) - Opposite Kaiten Misakiko, this old school joint has some no fuss Japanese sets. Prices are not great, but this place is a nice way to try everyday Japanese sets. Japanese sets from 980 yen • Google Maps
Kamakura Rikyu (りきゅう) - Family run, casual budget Japanese restaurant with decent curries and other favorites. Curry rice from 500 yen • Google Maps
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
Tokyu Store (東急ストア) is located outside Kamakura station, east exit (9am-10pm), to the right.
Shopping
100 yen shops
Daiso (ダイソー) - In the shopping mall to the right side of Kamakura station, east exit. 9am-10pm
Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)
Hac Drug Kamakura Shop (ハックドラッグ) is near Kamakura station, east exit. Head past the bus terminal, to the main road ahead, then down to the left a bit (9am-9pm).
Getting around
When you pick up your Enoshima Kamakura Freepass, be sure to take the free sightseeing map. This will show you how to get to each sightseeing spot. All the main sights are well signposted from the stations along this railway, as well as from Kamakura station, and are usually short walks away.
How to get there and away
From Shinjuku station, take the Odakyu Line to Fujisawa station, then the Enoshima Electric Railway to Enoshima station (76 mins, free with Enoshima Kamakura Freepass or 780 yen without).
Tourist information (観光案内所)
Inside Kamakura station (9am-7pm).
Kawagoe (川越)
Beautiful, traditional town less than an hour away from central Tokyo, in Saitama prefecture. It features a famous authentic old tower and shopping street, which is why many people call it ‘Little Edo’ (Edo was the old name for Tokyo). A great place for a nice one-day trip away from the skyscrapers of Tokyo. Kawagoe may not be as popular as other Tokyo side trips, but is still very much on domestic tourism maps.
Discount pass: Kawagoe Discount Pass
From Ikebukuro station in Tokyo, Tobu Railway offers the Kawagoe Discount Pass. It includes a return ticket, plus discounts or complimentary items at various stores in Kawagoe. It’s a no brainer. At 700 yen for adults (360 yen for children), it is already cheaper than a return ticket. Available from the Tojo Line ticket offices of Ikebukuro station. The Kawagoe Discount Pass Premium is also available (adults 950 yen, children 480 yen), which additionally includes unlimited bus travel around Kawagoe on Tobu buses. It’s not really required, unless you are really averse to lots of walking.
Things to do
Toki No Kane Bell Tower (時の鐘)
Still telling the time to residents, this is a traditional watch tower that is often featured in historical dramas. Kawagoe became a castle city in the 17th century (Edo period), and the feudal lord at the time ordered the grand bell tower to keep his subjects informed of the time. Would be crazy not to grab a photo of what is the icon of Kawagoe.
Kashiya Yokocho - Penny Candy Alley (菓子屋横丁)
Founded way back in the Meiji era, Kashiya Yokocho is a stone-paved alley lined with small shops selling nostalgic Japanese candy. Many of the candies are produced using the same processes as in the old days, and visitors can observe this process for free while strolling around. Small portions of these freshly made sweets are available as well, so try a few shops! As ever, keep a look out for free samples.
Kita-in Temple (喜多院)
A renowned temple only a short walk away from the other points of interest in Kawagoe. First built in 830, it features 540 stone Buddhas with various facial expressions, plus buildings and artifacts from castles in the Edo period. Adults 400 yen, children 200 yen • Mon-Sat 8:50am-4:30pm, Sundays and holidays to 4:50pm (March 1 - Nov 23), Mon-Sat 8:50am-4pm, Sundays and holidays to 4:20pm (Nov 24 - Feb 28) (closed New Year holidays, Feb 2-3, Apr 2-5, Aug 16) • Down Toshogu Nakain Dori, follow tourist signs • Google Maps
Volunteer guides and tours
The Kawagoe English Walkers - http://hebbon-juku.com/kawagoe-guide/
Local experts and English enthusiasts, ready to take you around and answer your questions. You just need to pay for your guides meal and expenses with this group.
Budget food
Wendy’s First Kitchen (ファーストキッチン) - Cheap soups, burgers and pasta. Pasta from 580 yen, burgers from 370 yen • 10am-9pm • Inside Hon-Kawagoe station. Also inside Atre Mall, outside Kawagoe station, east exit
Hidakaya (日高屋) - Ramen and gyoza dumplings. Ramen from 390 yen • 10am-3am • Outside Kawagoe station, west exit
Kyotaru (京樽) - Cheap sushi shop. Sushi from 108 yen • 11am-7pm • Inside Maruhiro Department Store (丸広百貨店), near the east exit of Hon-Kawagoe station
Ootoya (大戸屋) - Japanese set meals. Sets from 750 yen • 10am-10pm • Inside EQUIA(エキア) department store, Kawagoe station.
Matsuya (松屋) - Rice bowls and curry. Gyudon bowls from 290 yen • 24h • Just to the left of Kawagoe station, west exit. Also at Hon-Kawagoe station, east exit.
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
There is a large supermarket in Tobu Store (川越マイン), the large building to the right of Kawagoe station, east exit (9am-1am).
Shopping
100 yen shops
Can Do (キャンドゥ) - Inside the Tobu Store complex, outside from Kawagoe station, east exit. 9am-9pm
Watts (ワッツ) - Inside Hon-Kawagoe station. 10am-8pm
How to get there and away
From Ikebukuro station (on the JR Yamanote Line), take the Tobu Line to Kawagoe (30 mins, 463 yen or free with Kawagoe Discount Pass).
Tourist information (観光案内所)
Inside Kawagoe station (9am-5pm).
Omiya and Bonsai Village (大宮)
Omiya, in Saitama prefecture, has a special place in many hearts as the often forgotten city in “that prefecture north of Tokyo”. It may not be the coolest place on earth, but it’s a great non-touristy day trip from Tokyo or a nice spot to stop off at on the Shinkansen if you have a bit of time left at the end of using a rail pass. The highlight here is the Bonsai Village, but Hikawa Shrine is also quite famous. There are never any tour buses here!
Things to do
Omiya Bonsai Village (大宮盆栽村)
Bonsai is the art of creating miniature tree sculptures, using painstaking work over many years to create stunning shapes and forms that the artist desires. While not often known to Tokyoites down south, Omiya Bonsai Village is known to Bonsai experts and Saitama residents to be the top site in Japan to see Bonsai trees. Great any time of the year, the village is full of many free to enter gardens, and the streets have been designed in a delightful fashion to show off the various Bonsai sites. You may even get to see the experts at work if you’re lucky!
Omiya Bonsai Art Museum (大宮盆栽美術館)
An enthusiastic display of bonsai, and a must for flower enthusiasts or an interesting visit for those that want to know a little more about bonsai after visiting the surrounding gardens. The museum's aim is to promote the art and culture of bonsai, and it does this by displaying masterpieces from the area, including Ukiyoe woodblock paintings depicting bonsai. The history and process of making a bonsai tree is also explained in a series of galleries. Adults 300 yen, high school to university age 150 yen, elementary to junior 100 yen • 10am-4pm (closed Thursdays and New Year holidays) • From Omiya, take the Tobu Urban Park Line to Omiya Koen station (4 mins, 150 yen). Alternatively, if coming from Tokyo on a JR train, you can continue on the Utsunomiya Line to Toro station • Google Maps • http://www.bonsai-art-museum.jp/en/
Walk it!
It’s best to walk around the free bonsai gardens around the village first before considering the museum, as this is enough for most people. From Omiya Koen station, all the sights can be reached on foot, so just use the map to get to all the marked gardens:
It is also possible to walk all the way to Omiya Koen station from downtown Omiya, via the below Hikawa Shrine. Just before the entrance to the shrine building, take a right turn and walk into Omiya Park. Head north up past the zoo and the lake, until you reach the exit after the racing center (大宮競輪場). Take a left around the middle school (さいたま市立大宮北中学校) and walk up to the station.
Omiya city
Hikawa Shrine (氷川神社)
Our favorite shrine in Saitama, and not a tour group in site to obstruct the view. This tranquil but impressive in size shrine has a history of more than 2000 years. The city got its name from the shrine, as Omiya actually means ‘large shrine’. It is one of the top shrines in the Kanto region, so is a center for the faithful and a great spot for New Year celebrations. FREE • Mar - Apr, Sept - Oct: 5am-5:30pm, May - Aug: 5am-6pm, Nov - Feb 6am-4:30pm • Head up the main road from Omiya station (east exit), past Takashimaya department store. Just before the police box and nearby 7-Eleven, you can see a wide path lined with trees. Head down here to the shrine (takes 15-20 mins in total) • Google Maps
Railway Museum (鉄道博物館ミュージアムショップ)
A great place to geek out on trains or keep the children entertained on the super cute kiddie trains. There is a huge amount of history on show here, plus full sized trains of different generations to have a look around, including old Shinkansen trains. Japan has the most modern railway technology in the world, so this museum is an excellent place to get hands-on experiences using simulators and train models. Adults 1000 yen, elementary to high school age 500 yen, 3 and above 200 yen • 10am-6pm (closed Tuesdays and New Year holidays) • Head out of Omiya station west side, then follow the New Shuttle overhead tracks north (15 mins), or take the New Shuttle directly to Tetsudo-Hakubutsukan station (2 mins, 190 yen) • Google Maps • http://www.railway-museum.jp/en/
Budget food
There are a few convenience stores in Omiya Bonsai Village to pick up take-away meals or snacks. If you are looking to eat in, there are a host of cheap places all around the Omiya station, but the best bet is to head up the shopping street to the left, after leaving Omiya station from the east exit. Here are some spots up this street (in order from station):
Yoshinoya (吉野家) - Gyudon eat-in and takeaway. Meals from 330 yen • 24h
Kaiten Misakiko (海鮮三崎港) – Cheap sushi. Sushi plate from 110 yen + tax • 11am-10pm
Ministop (ミニストップ) - Looks like a standard convenience store, but has a large takeaway menu for fast food cooked onsite. Meals from 350 yen • 24h
Matsuya (松屋) - Gyudon and burger eat-in and takeaway. Meals from 290 yen • 24h
Tenya (天丼てんや) - Cheap tempura (deep fried fish and vegetables) bowls and plates. Bowls from 500 yen • 10:30am-10pm
Hidakaya Ramen (日高屋) - Cheap ramen chain. Fried rice and gyoza dumplings also available. Ramen from 390 yen • 10:30am-3am
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
Daiei (ダイエー) is across from the west exit of Omiya station, and has a good selection for making your own food cheaply (9am-11pm). In the Bonsai Village, there is a Tobu supermarket just outside Omiya Koen station (6am-1am).
Water bottle refill spots
All the above restaurants have water jugs to refill your water bottles, apart from the convenience stores. Omiya Park also has a few water fountains.
Shopping
100 yen shops
Daiso (ダイソー) - Located in Rakuun (ラクーン) shopping mall, which is up the shopping street on the left after exiting from Omiya station on the east side. There is also a Don Quijote variety shop here if you need more choice. 10am-9pm
Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)
There is a large Sundrug (ドラッグ ストア) if you head out of Omiya on the east side and walk up the shopping street to the left. Open 10am-9:45pm.
How to get there and away
From Shinjuku station, take the Saikyo Line or Shonan-Shinjuku Line to Omiya station (30 mins, 470 yen). From Tokyo station, take the Utsunomiya Line to Omiya (30 mins, 550 yen) or just hop on the next north heading Shinkansen if using a rail pass. To get to Omiya Bonsai Village from Omiya, take the Tobu Urban Park Line to Omiya-Koen (3 mins, 150 yen). Recommended rail passes: JR Tokyo Wide Pass, Japan Rail Pass
Tourist information (観光案内所)
There is a small tourist information booth in Omiya station (9am-7pm).