DOG CARE and TRAINING

Training collars are tools in your training toolbox. Puppies should always be trained using a regular collar, and specialized training collars should be used later only if necessary. A well-trained dog with no major issues may never need a training collar.

The choke collar is often used to “strangle” a pulling dog instead of the fast pop and release it’s intended for. The choke collar may cause neck and throat damage if overused. A prong (or “pinch”) collar looks barbaric to some, with its in-ward-facing metal prongs. However, a properly fitted prong collar can be gentler than a choke collar, offering power steering for large leash-pullers.

The majority of dogs will never need a training collar if effective, positive training is implemented from the start.
Training collars should not be used to correct lunging or aggressive behavior toward other dogs. Because your dog will associate the discomfort with the sight of other dogs, it will usually make him even more reactive instead of better behaved.
Many trainers believe in positive reinforcement only and do not allow chain or prong collars.

Head halters work by turning the dog’s head toward the handler when he pulls, breaking focus on what the dog was pulling toward and putting focus back on the handler.
A head halter is self-correcting, so the handler shouldn’t pull or jerk on it. In fact, a dog could be injured by a sharp backward jerk on the head halter.
Never leave any training collar or halter on the dog unless you are actually walking or working with him.

Nylon limited-slip collars and martingale collars are similar to chokes, except they don’t tighten all the way. Head halters have become popular and are effective for leash-pullers and those dogs who lunge at other dogs. Toy dogs and pugs often use harnesses instead of collars. There are also harnesses that discourage jumping and pulling.

A 6-foot leash is standard for training classes. During class you may need to secure your dog to free your hands, and most training facilities have hooks for this. Buy a carabiner from a hardware store and attach it to the leash for a hook-up.

In training, the dog walks on the left. Holding the leash in your right hand leaves the hand next to your dog free to give signals, pet, or give treats.
Never pull constantly on the leash. If this actually worked, it would be easy to teach a dog not to pull!
The heavier the leash, the more your dog feels it. For transitioning to off-leash control, use a very light-weight leash.

Cotton long lines let the dog have more freedom yet still remind him that you are in control even when you’re 20 feet away. A learning dog who might think that he doesn’t have to sit or lie down when commanded from a distance may think twee after a quick leash tug. Sometimes young dogs realize they can run faster than you and decide not to come when called. A long line is a great way to remind them that distance from you doesn’t mean they can blow you off.

A harness doesn’t give as much control for teaching a dog not to pull unless it’s especially designed for that.
A no-pull harness works by tightening across a dog’s chest and restricting front leg movement when he puts tension on the leash.
As with a head halter, there is no training involved with a no-pull harness. The dog simply finds it uncomfortable to pull while wearing one and stops pulling.

ELECTRONIC & BARK COLLARS

Electronic collars are controversial because many think they are cruel. However, the zap isn’t necessarily any stronger than the zap from the commonly used invisible fence collar. Electronic collars can be set to give a warning beep only or anything from a mild tickle to a noticeable shock. The electronic collars works like an electronic leash tug to get a dog’s attention and to direct him from a distance. It’s often used for hunting and field dogs because they must learn to obey while out in the field under considerable distraction.

Timing the correction properly is crucial. Mistimed corrections are not fair to the dog.
Detractors say that electronic collars are cruel and punitive and that a more humane option is to use positive training methods to encourage a dog to willingly comply.
Proponents say that a few strong corrections are more effective and kinder than months of nagging or simply not being able to deal with a behavior that threatens the safety of the dog and those around him.

Electronic collars should be used only under the tutelage of someone very experienced with them. One doesn’t just put the collar on the dog and start zapping. Timing is crucial in proper electronic collar use, and misuse can create serious, potentially irreversible problems. Properly used, an electronic collar can be highly effective and should be used with rewards and motivation. It teaches the dog that the correction comes not as a consequence of the handler but rather as a consequence of his own behavior, which will make the dog think and work independently. It’s important to find a reputable and considerate trainer if you consider this tool.

A high-quality modern electronic collar can have over one hundred settings, from a warning beep to a definite shock.
At the low settings, most training electronic collars deliver a milder buzz than a common invisible fence collar.
Most collars have a range of 100–300 yards, but some models work at up to 1 mile.
Some collars give just a vibration, not a shock. These are sometimes used for training deaf dogs.

Bark collars come in several designs. The most common design spritzes the dog’s face with citronella spray when triggered by barking. Others give a zap. Some trigger after about thirty seconds of barking to let the dog know it’s fine to bark at strange noises and newcomers but not fine to bark for thirty minutes nonstop.

Hunting dogs are trained to obey commands from great distances, often for their own safety. Electronic collars have been used for decades to teach dogs to stay on the trail instead of veering off after deer and to reliably come when called.
Training is first done without the collar. It’s used only to correct incompliance after the dog is familiar with the commands.
Many hunters successfully train their dogs without electronic collars.

Not every dog is a candidate for an electronic collar for invisible fencing, barking, or training. Some dogs will be too distressed by the correction, and like any training tool, electronic collars are easy to misuse.

TRAINING TREATS

The taste, consistency, and even color of your training treats can make a big difference

Food is a powerful motivator for dogs, which is why food works so well for training. To dispel a common myth: Using treats for training will not make a dog “work only for treats.” Given correctly, treats are used as markers for good behavior, not as bribes and only rarely as lures when teaching a brand new skill. They work to form a positive association in the dog’s mind, let him know when he’s done just the right thing, and to keep his attention on the job. After he has learned the skill, the treats are used intermittently and can be phased out. Some trainers don’t believe in treats, and that’s fine. They are merely a tool in the toolbox and like any other tool can be abused!

Training treats should be very small and soft.
Don’t be constrained by the available size of commercial treats. Many can be pinched in half.
Use little crumbs for rewards and a whole treat for extra special performance.
There is no rule that treats all have to be the same. Use tiny treats and reserve cooked chicken chunks for his “jackpot” reward.

Hot dogs can be cut into little pieces or held hidden in one hand for the dog to nibble at for reward.
Low-fat cheese, liverwurst, and lunch meats all make excellent training treats.
Very nutritious liver treats are made by cooking liver in the oven at low heat, liberally sprinkled with garlic powder. Cut the treats into small cubes and store in the freezer.
Don’t overdo liver treats. Too many at once can cause diarrhea.

Good training treats should be very small. You are not feeding the dog; you are giving him tiny little rewards. They should be soft, so he doesn’t inhale one and then get distracted coughing it up when he’s supposed to be doing a perfect heeling pattern. They shouldn’t be crumbly, so they don’t sprinkle all over the ground and distract him, or worse yet, other dogs in a training class. Finally, if you’re doing training like agility, where treats are often thrown, they should be a different color than the ground so he can get them fast.

Some obedience trainers tuck treats into their mouths and spit them at the dog to keep their hands free and the dog focused. This explains the rapt attention that competition obedience dogs often have on their handlers’faces. Choose special treats that your dog really loves and use them only for training. You can find many training treats on the market or use your own. Hot dogs cut into tiny pieces work well, as do cheese and lunch meats.

Most indoor training facilities use black matting, so light-colored treats are easy to see when thrown or accidentally dropped.
In class, ask permission before giving someone else’s dog a treat. Some dogs are intolerant of certain ingredients; some owners are particular about what they feed.
To reward tiny dogs while heeling, smear some peanut butter or soft cheese onto the end of a dowel and let them have a quick taste as reward. That is much easier than constantly bending down!

CLICKERS

Developed initially to train large marine mammals, clicker training has become a useful dog training tool. The operant conditioning theory is that an animal will learn to repeat an action if the action has a positive consequence, usually food. A clicker is a small plastic box with a metal strip that when pressed with your finger makes a sharp click. Unlike your voice, the distinctive click is a clear signal to a dog that she’s performed the desired action when immediately followed by a small treat reward.

A clicker has to be “primed.” This means making the dog aware that the click she hears will be immediately followed by a food reward.
Have a handful of very small, soft treats in one hand and the clicker in the other and your dog in front of you.
Click and immediately treat without saying anything. Repeat this. It usually takes three to ten repetitions before your dog is looking expectant, waiting for the click sound. Your clicker is now primed.

Very specific behaviors, like tail wags are easily taught with a clicker. Because the click occurs at the moment the dog performs the behavior, it bridges the gap between the behavior and the treat. Think of the clicker as a camera, with the click taking an imaginary photo of the behavior.

Shape a behavior, even a simple one. This is fun. Equip yourself with clicker, treats, and your dog and wait quietly.
Eventually she will move—a paw motion, a head turn, an ear twitch. Immediately click-treat. Wait for her to make the same move and again click-treat.
Within one short session, she’ll start offering this behavior in order to get the click-treat. After she does, put a command to it. You have just shaped a behavior.

Clicker training makes a dog work to figure out what she has to do in order to get the click-treat, and because it makes her think, she learns fast and retains what she’s learned. Clicker training involves only guidance, not corrections. Incorrect actions are simply ignored. As a result, the dog works hard to figure out how to get you to perform and give her a treat.

Increase your criteria. Using the head turn example, say you want her to turn her head all the way back instead of making a quick half-turn.
Now ignore her quick halfturns. There are no corrections in clicker training—simply don’t acknowledge unwanted behavior.
She will try harder to get that click-treat and at some point will turn her head farther. Quickly reward that, and from this point forward you will reward only complete head turns.

Operant conditioning teaches your dog to repeat behaviors that are rewarded and not to repeat unrewarding behaviors. Rewards cannot often be given at precisely the right instant, so the clicker gives an immediate “yes, that’s it!” The treat comes afterward and is faded out as the dog learns the command.

A clicker can be used to conduct general training, to teach tricks, or just to shape very specific behaviors.
Even “hard to teach” dogs can grasp concepts quickly through clicker training.
Teach a beginner dog away from distractions at first. Increase distractions as she gets more proficient.
Don’t do any treat-training right after a meal unless yours is a real chowhound. A dog who is a little hungry will work harder.

TRAINING TOYS

Using your dog’s favorite toy just for training sessions can be a great motivator

Trainers talk of dogs having “play drive,” which means just any dog who likes to chase, tug, and “kill” toys. It’s another great way to motivate and reward a dog during training. Some dogs get more geeked about toys than food, which can make for some high-energy training sessions. Because most training should be structured play, it’s wonderful if you have a play-driven dog. Terriers are often extremely focused on toys due to their development as vermin-killing dogs.

Have a special toy or two reserved only for training.
Many dogs are highly motivated by toys made of real instead of faux fur. Many online training supply stores sell sturdy tugs made from sheepskin or rabbit fur.
If using a ball for training or fetch, make sure it’s too large for a dog to swallow. Large dogs can choke on thrown tennis balls. A baseball is a better size for big dogs.

As with treats, it works best if you have a special favorite toy that your dog adores just for training sessions. Again, you are creating a positive association—obeying is a fun game.

The type of toy depends on what you’re teaching and what your dog likes. It could be as low-tech as a length of heavy knotted rope or empty plastic water bottle, or it could be an expensive rabbit fur woven tug. If choosing toys for group training classes, avoid squeaker toys, which can completely unravel the other dogs. Toys in class can keep your dog focused on you and having fun while you wait for other dogs to take their turns. Take a toy along on walks and play-train in the park for distraction training. Stop your training sessions before he starts to lose interest. Short sessions work better and keep his motivation high.

Playing tug is very satisfying for many dogs. An unconfident dog may be hesitant to “challenge” his person over a tug, even in play. These dogs will quickly drop the toy or have a half-hearted grip.
Encourage a shy dog to take the toy and tug. Don’t pull too hard and give him plenty of praise when he drops it on command.
Try snaking the toy along the floor, as you would if playing with a cat. Doing this helps trigger a dog’s prey drive.

Frisbees come in a plethora of styles and materials, including floating Frisbees for water retrieval.
If your dog doesn’t take to a Frisbee right away, use it as a food bowl for a few days to create a positive association.
Start by rolling it along the ground and doing short tosses with it. Work up gradually to the spectacular airborne leaps unless he’s a natural disc dog.
Don’t encourage a young dog to jump too high. Wait until his joints are done growing.

It’s OK for you to play tug-of-war with your dog as long as you set the rules. Use it to teach your dog the “drop” command—his reward is that he gets to play again after he releases. Work on sits, downs, and stays and reward him with a brief tug session each time. No matter what you’re using play-training for, it strengthens your bond with the dog and builds motivation.

Carry a toy with you on walks for impromptu training play.
This is called “proofing for distraction.” Many dogs will obey beautifully at home, but it’s out in the real world where much of the training really counts.
Every time you increase the difficulty level, you may need to take a step back in training. Don’t expect your dog to handle a sixty-second down stay in a busy park right away.

CLASSES

Group training classes are fun, inexpensive, and a great way to learn new techniques

There are some misconceptions about dog training classes. Beginner and novice classes are not just for novice dog owners. They’re for beginner and novice dogs, often brought to class by experienced dog owners. The dogs learn to pay attention to their owners in the face of distractions and interact politely with other dogs and people. Another misconception is that basic obedience classes are for puppies and young dogs. Most are held for beginner dogs of any age because old dogs can learn new tricks. Finally, many people think their dog is too wild for classes. Many classes are tailored exactly for the unruly dog—how will he learn to behave in public if he’s never i n public?

The difference between an unruly dog on the first night of class and a controlled canine at the end of the course can be quite dramatic!
Unless a dog has serious aggression issues, group classes work very well to teach restraint and calm around other dogs.
Most training facilities will do some private lessons to evaluate and work with a dog before it enters group classes. If you’re unsure how your dog will do, call and ask first.

Even serious obedience classes should be structured play. Effective trainers encourage the use of treats, toys, and games for control and attention.
Puppy and beginner classes are usually more lax. At higher levels, especially competition-level classes, dogs are expected to be controlled and to ignore other dogs during class or competition.
A more experienced dog is expected to keep his focus on his owner and the job in class. He can play with his owner but not other dogs.

Obedience training isn’t just an eight-week class, and you’re done. It’s a process, and it’s even OK to repeat classes. You and your dog will learn from the different participants, and it will strengthen your dog’s social graces. Most good dog training facilities teach not only base skills but also dog sports and advanced obedience, so you can continue to higher learning.

The AKC offers the “Canine Good Citizen” certification to any dog, regardless of breed. The CGC certification proves that your dog has the basic skills to be a mannerly dog in areas from walking with a loose leash to being friendly with other dogs and people. Many training facilities offer CGC classes, followed by the test.

One of the most important skills your dog will learn in class is to focus on you—his leader—in a distracting environment.
When observing a class, ask yourself if both dogs and owners are enjoying themselves. Avoid classes that use choke collars and jerk the dogs around for compliance.
Punishment should never be a part of any puppy class. Appropriate corrections may be warranted for dogs who have already learned the rules.

There are several right ways to train dogs and some wrong ways, and every trainer has her philosophy. A good trainer is going to be flexible in her methods and make the classes fun. Ask people with well-behaved dogs whom they recommend. Perhaps your vet will know someone. Go and observe a class before you sign up and see if it feels like a good fit, then go play!

In class pups start to learn “real world” skills, like ignoring other dogs and tempting items on the ground.
The dog who must stay still while other dogs are walking by him is called the “honor dog.” His job is to stay politely while serving as a distraction for the others.
In a good class, you can learn from other participants as well as the trainer. Even experienced owners oftitled dogs bring beginner dogs to basic classes.

COLLARS, HARNESSES, & LEASHES

ELECTRONIC & BARK COLLARS

TRAINING TREATS

CLICKERS

TRAINING TOYS

CLASSES