Andy Cave cocooned in his bivvy bag on our attempt on the west face of Mount Grosvenor, China, in 2003.

Kajaqiao (left) and Manamcho (6,447 and 6,264 metres respectively) in the Nyainqentangla East range of east Tibet.

Hiring porters in Tibet on the 2005 Kajaqiao expedition.

Looking across to Manamcho, Tom Nakamura’s ‘Matterhorn of the Nyainqentangla’, from Pt 5,935. Steve Burns in the foreground. Photo: Ian Cartwright.

Leading out on the traverse on day four of our attempt on Vasuki Parbat. Photo: Paul Ramsden.

Successfully completing the Isle of Jura fell race in 2010 after my failure in 2009. Photo: John English.

Me failing dismally to duck under the planks in the Xiate hot springs on our Sulamar expedition in 2010.

Not to be recommended: my view having fallen in a crevasse while acclimatising for Sulamar.

Sulamar, day two: a storm, benightment and no bivvy in sight – a bad combination.

Dave Turnbull, CEO of the British Mountaineering Council, and the Nepali border defence on our walk in to Mugu Chuli in 2011.

Dave Turnbull climbing on day one on Mugu Chuli.

Dave Turnbull climbing on the upper slopes of Mugu Chuli.

Paul Ramsden climbing on the lower section of the Prow of Shiva in 2012.