The Age of Elegance was at its height in America during the last half of the nineteenth century. Formal seven-course dinners were common in some upper-class homes. The food was served in the latest style: a la russe. Instead of bringing it to the table all at once (in true English style), the butlers plated each course in the kitchen and presented them to each guest from gold and silver servers.
After the 1920s, despite Prohibition, this elaborate style of entertaining gave way to the cocktail party: those warm and friendly gatherings at home, where guests sipped, dipped, dunked, and nibbled, often well past the cocktail hour and long into suppertime. With this social phenomenon came finger foods that could be eaten without muss or fuss. Hostesses began stuffing celery, potting meats and seafood, broiling clams and oysters, baking cheese puffs, and creating dips for everything from raw oysters to crunchy vegetable crudités. By the 1930s, women’s magazines and cookbooks were featuring recipes for fancy ribbon sandwiches, quick dips, spicy nuts, and cream cheese balls rolled in everything imaginable.
Popular, too, was the cocktail buffet table, which was often adorned with a chafing dish (which had been very popular at the turn of the century) to keep such favorites as cheese fondue, meatballs, or crab cakes warm for an hour or two. Punch bowls frequently made an appearance at these parties. In the ’30s, punch bowls were filled with fruit juice, sometimes alcohol, slices of fresh fruit, and a simple ice ring, which floated on top and kept it all cold. During the holidays, fruit punch was replaced by festive eggnog sprinkled with ground nutmeg or by hot wassail. By the late ’40s and through the ’50s, fruit punches became dressier. Ice rings were tinted a pretty pink and fresh fruit was decoratively arranged within the ice, turning a simple fruit punch into a real showstopper. Today bite-size foods are classics, so nibble away to your heart’s content!
Chafing-Dish Meatballs, Hot Cheddar Puffs, and Half-Moon Empanadas
In 1952, the Lipton Soup Company developed a dehydrated onion-soup mix, but a consumer, created the first dip using the soup mix, which Lipton has featured ever since. “Just open a couple of packages and fold into a cup of sour cream.” Soon it became known as California Dip. Our onion dip is even better, for it’s made the old-fashioned way: from slow-simmered onions folded into—of course—sour cream.
PREP: 10 minutes plus cooling * COOK: 30 minutes
MAKES 1
cups
2 large onions (12 ounces each), finely chopped (2 cups)
2 cups canned chicken broth or Old-Fashioned Chicken Broth (page 49)
1 tablespoon minced garlic
½ bay leaf
¼ teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 cup sour cream
teaspoon salt
teaspoon ground black pepper
crackers or potato chips
1. In 2-quart saucepan, combine onions, broth, garlic, bay leaf, and thyme; heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat and cook until liquid has almost completely evaporated, about 25 minutes.
2. Transfer mixture to medium bowl; stir in vinegar. Cool to room temperature.
3. Stir in sour cream, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate up to overnight. Serve with crackers or potato chips.
EACH TABLESPOON: About 27 calories, 1g protein, 2g carbohydrate, 2g total fat (1g saturated), 4mg cholesterol, 93mg sodium.
In the 1950s, hostesses coast to coast entertained friends at fancy cocktail parties and informal backyard barbecues. This hot dip, made with chunks of crab, a hint of curry, and slivers of almonds, was often served regardless of what else was on the menu. Our recipe uses Old Bay seasoning in place of curry powder.
PREP: 5 minutes * BAKE: 23 minutes
MAKES 1½ cups
cup slivered almonds
½ pound lump crabmeat, picked over
½ cup mayonnaise
cup sour cream
2 tablespoons minced onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning
crackers
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease 9-inch pie plate.
2. Spread almonds on cookie sheet. Bake, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and fragrant, about 8 minutes; cool.
3. In medium bowl, combine crabmeat, mayonnaise, sour cream, onion, parsley, and seasoning. Turn into prepared pie plate and spread evenly.
4. Bake until heated through, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle with almonds. Serve with crackers.
EACH TABLESPOON: About 62 calories, 2g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 6g total fat (1g saturated), 14mg cholesterol, 82mg sodium.
Lacking refrigeration, the early settlers preserved seafood and meats by “potting” them. They first cooked the food, then potted and sealed it with plenty of fat, often butter. Potting food is still quite popular throughout the Deep South, especially in the Carolinas.
PREP: 15 minutes plus chilling * COOK: 3 minutes
MAKES about 2 cups
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened (do not use margarine)
1 pound medium shrimp, shelled and deveined
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)
2 tablespoons dry sherry
sesame crackers or toast
1. In 10-inch skillet, melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium-high heat. Add shrimp, salt, and ground red pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until shrimp are opaque throughout, about 2 minutes. Add sherry and cook 30 seconds.
2. Transfer shrimp and pan juices to food processor with knife blade attached and pulse until shrimp is finely chopped. Add remaining butter; process until blended.
3. Transfer shrimp mixture to serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate up to 24 hours. Let stand 30 minutes at room temperature before serving. Serve with sesame crackers or toast.
EACH TABLESPOON: About 39 calories, 2g protein, 0g carbohydrate, 3g total fat (2g saturated), 25mg cholesterol, 72mg sodium.
From south of the border down Mexico way comes an avocado dip that is heated up with chile peppers. Its name comes from the Spanish word ahuacamolli (avocado sauce). One recipe appeared in a 1942 Good Housekeeping Cook Book. As ethnic and regional specialties took over dinner parties in the 1950s, guacamole caught on quickly and remains a cocktail-party standby.
PREP: 5 minutes * MAKES about 1½ cups
2 medium or 1 large ripe Hass avocado*
2 tablespoons minced onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
2 serrano or jalapeño chiles, seeded and minced
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 ripe plum tomato, chopped
tortilla chips
Cut each avocado lengthwise in half; remove each pit. With spoon, scoop flesh from peel into medium bowl. Add onion, cilantro, lime juice, chiles, salt, and pepper. With potato masher, coarsely mash mixture; stir in tomato. Transfer to small serving bowl and serve or cover and refrigerate up to 2 hours. Serve with tortilla chips.
* Choose perfectly ripened avocados that yield to gentle pressure when lightly squeezed in the palm of the hand.
EACH TABLESPOON: About 35 calories, 1g protein, 2g carbohydrate, 3g total fat (1g saturated), 0mg cholesterol, 45mg sodium.
You can assemble the bean and cheese layers of this dip and chill them until ready to serve, then warm them through in the oven and top with guacamole and sour cream.
PREP: 35 minutes * BAKE: 15 minutes
MAKES 24 servings
1 can (15 to 19 ounces) pinto beans, rinsed and drained
1 cup mild to medium salsa
2 green onions, finely chopped
1 small garlic clove, minced
4 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (1 cup)
1 can (2.25 ounces) sliced ripe black olives, rinsed and drained
2 ripe medium Hass avocados
cup chopped fresh cilantro
3 tablespoons finely chopped red onion
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup sour cream
tortilla chips
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. In medium bowl, combine beans, 3 tablespoons salsa, half of green onions, and garlic. Mash until well combined but still slightly chunky. Spread in bottom of 9-inch glass pie plate.
2. Sprinkle Jack cheese over bean mixture, then spread with remaining salsa and sprinkle with olives. Bake until hot, about 15 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, cut each avocado in half; remove each pit. With spoon, scoop flesh from peel into same medium bowl. Mash avocados until slightly chunky. Stir in ¼ cup cilantro, red onion, lime juice, and salt. Spoon avocado mixture over hot dip; spread sour cream on top. Sprinkle with remaining green onions and remaining cilantro. Serve with tortilla chips.
EACH SERVING: About 83 calories, 3g protein, 4g carbohydrate, 6g total fat (2g saturated), 9mg cholesterol, 206mg sodium.
O ur silky smooth version of a French pâté is seasoned the traditional way: with a splash of brandy, some black pepper, and dried thyme.
PREP: 25 minutes plus chilling * COOK: 23 minutes
MAKES about 1½ cups
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 pound chicken livers, trimmed
2 tablespoons brandy
½ cup heavy or whipping cream
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon dried thyme
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
assorted crackers, toast, or thinly sliced apples
1. In 10-inch skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add onion; cook, stirring frequently, until tender and golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and livers; cook until livers are lightly browned but still pink inside, about 5 minutes. Stir in brandy; cook 5 minutes longer.
2. In blender or in food processor with knife blade attached, puree chicken-liver mixture, cream, salt, thyme, and pepper until smooth, stopping blender occasionally and scraping down sides with rubber spatula.
3. Spoon mixture into small bowl; cover and refrigerate at least 3 hours or up to overnight. Let stand 30 minutes at room temperature before serving. Serve with crackers, toast, or apples.
EACH TABLESPOON: About 54 calories, 4g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 4g total fat (2g saturated), 92mg cholesterol, 75mg sodium.
In the 1960s, Julia Child started a gourmet revolution by giving women the skills and recipes with which to cook classic French cuisine. Bacon-and-cheese pie from the south of France, called quiche Lorraine, quickly became an American standard. Julia called it “just a custard in a fancy dress.”
PREP: 1 hour plus chilling * BAKE: 20 minutes
MAKES 36 mini quiches
Pastry Dough for 2-Crust Pie (page 314)
1 tablespoon butter or margarine, melted
1 package (8 ounces) bacon, finely chopped
1 cup half-and-half or light cream
2 large eggs
¼ teaspoon salt
3 ounces Swiss cheese, shredded (¾ cup)
1. Prepare Pastry Dough for 2-Crust Pie. Grease and flour thirty-six 1¾-inch mini-muffin-pan cups.
2. On lightly floured surface, with floured rolling pin, roll dough until inch thick. Using 3-inch fluted round cookie cutter, cut pastry dough into 36 rounds, rerolling trimmings.
3. Line muffin-pan cups with dough rounds; brush lightly with melted butter. Cover the pan and refrigerate.
4. Preheat oven to 400°F. In 12-inch skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until browned. Transfer bacon to paper towels to drain.
5. In small bowl, beat half-and-half, eggs, and salt. Divide bacon and cheese evenly among pastry cups. Spoon about 1 tablespoon egg mixture into each cup. Bake until knife inserted in center of quiche comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove quiches from pan and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
EACH QUICHE: About 111 calories, 3g protein, 7g carbohydrate, 8g total fat (4g saturated), 26mg cholesterol, 118mg sodium.
The story goes that, in the 1940s at the Victory Club in Piedras Negras, Mexico, Chef Ignacio “Nacho” Anaya ran out of his usual specials, so he melted cheese on toasted tortillas, topped each with a jalapeño slice, and called them Nacho’s Especiales.
PREP: 30 minutes * BAKE: 5 minutes per batch
MAKES 36 nachos
36 unbroken large tortilla chips
3 large ripe plum tomatoes, cut into ¼-inch pieces
cup chopped fresh cilantro
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 fully cooked chorizo sausage (3 ounces), finely chopped, or ¾ cup finely chopped pepperoni (3 ounces)
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 can (15 to 19 ounces) black beans, rinsed and drained
4 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (1 cup)
2 pickled jalapeño chiles, very thinly sliced
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Arrange as many tortilla chips as will fit in single layer on two ungreased large cookie sheets. In small bowl, combine tomatoes, cilantro, and salt.
2. In 10-inch skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add chorizo, onion, garlic, and cumin; cook, stirring, until onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in beans, mashing with back of spoon; cover and cook until heated through.
3. Place 1 tablespoon mashed bean mixture on each tortilla chip. Sprinkle Jack cheese over beans and top each nacho with 1 slice jalapeño. Bake until cheese begins to melt, about 5 minutes.
4. Spoon about 1 teaspoon tomato mixture on each nacho. Transfer nachos to platter; keep warm. Repeat with remaining chips, bean mixture, cheese, and tomato mixture. Serve warm.
EACH NACHO: About 51 calories, 2g protein, 4g carbohydrate, 3g total fat (1g saturated), 5mg cholesterol, 112mg sodium.
In 1955, Ralston Purina in St. Louis created a party snack using Chex cereal squares to bolster sales. The cereal was tossed with pretzel sticks, nuts, and spicy butter spiked with Worcestershire sauce. Since then, numerous variations have evolved. This recipe mirrors the original with one exception: the nuts have been replaced with popped corn.
PREP: 10 minutes plus cooling
BAKE: 30 minutes per batch
MAKES about 25 cups
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
4 tablespoons butter or margarine
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1½ teaspoons salt
½ to 1 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)
12 cups popped corn (about cup unpopped)
1 package (12 ounces) oven-toasted corn cereal squares
1 package (8 to 10 ounces) thin pretzel sticks
1. Preheat oven to 300°F. In 1-quart saucepan, combine Worcestershire, butter, brown sugar, salt, and ground red pepper; heat over low heat, stirring often, until butter has melted.
2. Place half each of popped corn, cereal, and pretzels in large roasting pan; toss with half of Worcestershire-butter mixture.
3. Bake popcorn mixture 30 minutes, stirring once halfway through baking. Cool mixture in very large bowl or on surface covered with waxed paper. Repeat with remaining ingredients.
EACH ½ CUP: About 65 calories, 1g protein, 13g carbohydrate, 1g total fat (0 g saturated), 0mg cholesterol, 245mg sodium.
In Spanish empanar means “to wrap in dough.” These half-moon pastry turnovers are filled with picadillo, the Mexican-spiced beef filling. Recipes for empanadas first appeared here in print in the 1920s, and these savories are now a staple in Mexican-American fare.
PREP: 1 hour 15 minutes * BAKE: 15 minutes per batch
MAKES about 54 turnovers
Flaky Turnover Pastry (opposite)
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 large garlic clove, minced
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)
4 ounces ground beef chuck
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup canned tomatoes with juice
3 tablespoons chopped golden raisins
3 tablespoons chopped pimiento-stuffed olives (salad olives)
1 large egg beaten with 2 tablespoons water
1. Prepare Flaky Turnover Pastry. Wrap in plastic wrap; set aside.
2. In 10-inch skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion; cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, cinnamon, and ground red pepper; cook 30 seconds. Increase heat to medium-high. Add ground beef and salt; cook, breaking up meat with side of spoon, until beef begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes with their juice, raisins, and olives, breaking up tomatoes with side of spoon. Cook over high heat until liquid has almost evaporated, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat.
3. Preheat oven to 425°F. Divide dough into four equal pieces. On floured surface, with floured rolling pin, roll one piece of dough until 
inch thick. Keep remaining dough covered. With 3-inch round biscuit cutter, cut out as many rounds as possible, reserving trimmings. On one half of each dough round, place 1 level measuring teaspoon of filling. Brush edges of rounds with some egg mixture. Fold dough over to enclose filling. With fork, press edges together to seal dough; prick tops. Brush tops of empanadas lightly with egg mixture. With spatula, lift turnovers and place, 1 inch apart, on ungreased large cookie sheet.
4. Bake turnovers just until golden, 15 to 17 minutes. Repeat with remaining dough, filling, and egg mixture. Press together dough trimmings and reroll.
In large bowl, combine 3 cups all-purpose flour, 1½ teaspoons baking powder, and ¾ teaspoon salt. With pastry blender or two knives used scissor-fashion, cut in 1 cup vegetable shortening until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Sprinkle with about 6 tablespoons cold water, 1 tablespoon at a time, mixing with fork after each addition, until dough is just moist enough to hold together. Shape into ball. Refrigerate pastry if not assembling turnovers right away.
EACH TURNOVER: About 70 calories, 1g protein, 6g carbohydrate, 5g total fat (2g saturated), 5mg cholesterol, 80mg sodium.
As cocktail parties became the rage in the ’50s, every good hostess began collecting recipes for favorite finger foods to serve at parties. Often some form of cheesy puffs appeared. Ours are special: hot, spicy, crispy, and melt-in-your-mouth delicious!
PREP: 20 minutes * BAKE: 25 minutes
MAKES about 8 dozen puffs
2 teaspoons curry powder
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)
6 tablespoons butter or margarine, cut into pieces
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup water
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
4 ounces Cheddar cheese, shredded (1 cup)
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Grease two large cookie sheets.
2. In 3-quart saucepan, combine curry powder, coriander, cumin, and ground red pepper. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until very fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in butter, salt, and water; heat to boiling over high heat. Remove from heat. With wooden spoon, stir in flour all at once. Return pan to medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture forms a ball and leaves side of pan. Remove from heat.
3. Stir in eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition, until batter is smooth and satiny. Stir in Cheddar. Spoon batter into large pastry bag fitted with ½-inch plain tip. Pipe batter, about 1 inch apart, on cookie sheets, forming 1-inch-wide and ¾-inch-high mounds. Alternatively, drop teaspoons of dough on cookie sheets. With fingertip dipped in cool water, smooth peaks.
4. Bake puffs until deep golden, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating cookie sheets between oven racks halfway through baking. Transfer to wire racks to cool. Repeat with remaining batter.
5. Serve puffs at room temperature or reheat in 400°F oven 5 minutes to serve hot.
EACH PUFF: About 20 calories, 1g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 1g total fat (0g saturated), 10mg cholesterol, 30mg sodium.
During the 1950s, bowls of spiced nuts, flavored with Worcestershire sauce and a dash of hot pepper, were popular offerings at suburban soirées. Walnuts and almonds were popular in California, while pecans were the nut of choice in the Deep South.
PREP: 5 minutes plus cooling * BAKE: 20 minutes
MAKES about 2 cups
8 ounces walnuts (2 cups)
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1½ teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)
¼ teaspoon salt
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place walnuts in jelly-roll pan. Bake, stirring occasionally, until toasted, about 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in small bowl, combine sugar, oil, Worcestershire, ground red pepper, and salt.
3. Drizzle spice mixture over hot nuts and toss until thoroughly coated. Spread nuts in single layer; cool completely in pan on wire rack. Store at room temperature in tightly covered container up to 1 month.
EACH ¼ CUP: About 210 calories, 4g protein, 9g carbohydrate, 19g total fat (2 g saturated), 0mg cholesterol, 80mg sodium.
American settlers frequently found mushrooms growing wild but avoided eating them, fearing they might be poisonous. It wasn’t until the nineteenth century that cultivated mushrooms from France were imported. By the 1920s, white mushrooms were being cultivated here. They rapidly grew in popularity, and by the 1960s, stuffed mushrooms had become a popular hors d’oeuvre.
PREP: 50 minutes * BAKE: 15 minutes
MAKES 30 appetizers
1½ pounds medium white mushrooms (about 30)
8 ounces sweet or hot Italian-sausage links, casings removed
½ cup shredded mozzarella cheese
¼ cup seasoned dried bread crumbs
1. Remove stems from mushrooms; chop stems. Set mushroom caps and chopped stems aside.
2. Heat 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add sausage; cook, breaking up meat with side of spoon, until well browned, about 8 minutes. With slotted spoon, transfer sausage to paper towels to drain. Spoon off all but 2 tablespoons drippings from skillet.
3. Add mushroom stems to hot drippings in skillet. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in sausage, mozzarella, and bread crumbs.
4. Preheat oven to 450°F. Fill mushroom caps with sausage mixture. Place stuffed mushrooms in jelly-roll pan. Bake until heated through, about 15 minutes. Serve hot.
EACH APPETIZER: About 39 calories, 2g protein, 2g carbohydrate, 3g total fat (1g saturated), 6mg cholesterol, 90mg sodium.
In the mid-1950s, fancy tea parties, complete with turn-of-the-century elegance, were popular in Texas cities. These crisp, flaky, twisted cheese straws were often present, displayed in a circular pattern on a cut-crystal platter.
PREP: 30 minutes * BAKE: 20 minutes per batch
MAKES about 48 cheese straws
1 tablespoon paprika
½ teaspoon dried thyme
¼ to ½ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)
¼ teaspoon salt
1 package (17¼ ounces) frozen puff-pastry sheets, thawed
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
8 ounces sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded (2 cups)
1. Grease two large cookie sheets. In a small bowl, combine the paprika, thyme, ground red pepper, and salt.
2. Unfold 1 puff-pastry sheet. On lightly floured surface, with floured rolling pin, roll pastry into 14-inch square. Lightly brush with egg white. Sprinkle pastry with half of paprika mixture. Sprinkle half of Cheddar over half of pastry. Fold pastry over to enclose cheese, forming rectangle. With rolling pin, lightly roll over pastry to seal layers together. With pizza wheel or knife, cut pastry crosswise into ½-inch-wide strips.
3. Preheat oven to 375°F. Place strips, ½ inch apart, on prepared cookie sheets, twisting each strip twice to form spiral and pressing ends against cookie sheet to prevent strips from uncurling during baking. Bake cheese straws until golden, 20 to 22 minutes. With spatula, carefully transfer straws to wire racks to cool.
4. Repeat with remaining puff-pastry sheet, egg white, paprika mixture, and cheese. Store in airtight container up to 1 week.
EACH STRAW: About 75 calories, 2g protein, 5g carbohydrate, 6g total fat (2g saturated), 9mg cholesterol, 65mg sodium.
Texas Cheese Straws
This dish, created in 1899, is truly “as rich as Rockefeller himself.” The original chef’s recipe was never revealed, though legend has it that one is instructed to “Take the tail and tips of small green onions. Take celery, take chervil, take tarragon leaves and the crumbs of stale bread. Take Tobasco sauce and the best butter obtainable. Pound all these into a mixture in a mortar, so that all the fragrant flavorings are blended. Add a dash of absinthe. Force the mixture through a fine-meshed sieve. Place one spoonful on each oyster as it rests in its own shell and in its own juice on the crushed rock salt, the purpose of which is to keep the oyster piping hot …” Numerous versions followed over the years. Here fresh oysters on the half shell are cooked until sizzling hot under a bed of seasoned chopped spinach and buttered bread crumbs.
PREP: 30 minutes * BAKE: 10 minutes
MAKES 4 first-course servings
1 dozen oysters, shucked, bottom shells reserved
kosher or rock salt (optional)
1 bunch spinach (10 to 12 ounces), tough stems trimmed, washed, and dried very well
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons butter or margarine
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
pinch ground red pepper (cayenne)
¼ cup heavy or whipping cream
1 tablespoon Pernod or other anise-flavored liqueur
pinch salt
2 tablespoons plain dried bread crumbs
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Place oysters in shells in jelly-roll pan lined with ½-inch layer of kosher salt to keep them flat, if desired; refrigerate.
2. In 2-quart saucepan, cook spinach over high heat until wilted; drain. Rinse spinach with cold running water; drain well. Finely chop spinach. Wipe saucepan dry with paper towels.
3. In same clean saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat. Add onion; cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in ground red pepper. Stir in spinach, cream, Pernod, and salt. Cook over high heat, stirring, until liquid has reduced and thickened. Remove from heat.
4. In small saucepan, melt remaining 2 teaspoons butter over low heat. Remove from heat; stir in bread crumbs until evenly moistened.
5. Spoon spinach mixture evenly on top of oysters. Sprinkle with buttered bread crumbs. Bake until edges of oysters curl, about 10 minutes.
EACH SERVING: About 166 calories, 6g protein, 9g carbohydrate, 12g total fat (7g saturated), 57mg cholesterol, 228mg sodium.
The year was 1917, and Mrs. Paran Stevens was hosting her society friends at the Casino at Narragansett Pier in New York City. Maitre d’Hotel Julius Keller created a dish for the occasion featuring clams on the half shell baked with bacon and seasonings.
PREP: 30 minutes * BAKE: 10 minutes
MAKES 6 first-course servings
2 dozen littleneck clams, scrubbed and shucked, bottom shells reserved
kosher or rock salt (optional)
3 slices bacon
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ red pepper, very finely chopped
½ green pepper, very finely chopped
¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 cup fresh bread crumbs (about 2 slices bread)
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Place clams in shells in jelly-roll pan lined with ½-inch layer of kosher salt to keep them flat, if desired; refrigerate.
2. In 10-inch skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until browned; transfer to paper towels to drain. Discard drippings from skillet. Add oil, red and green peppers, and black pepper to skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until peppers are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 30 seconds; remove from heat.
3. Finely chop bacon; stir bacon and bread crumbs into pepper mixture in skillet. Spoon crumb mixture evenly over clams. Bake until crumb topping is light golden, about 10 minutes.
EACH SERVING: About 107 calories, 9g protein, 6g carbohydrate, 5g total fat (1g saturated), 23mg cholesterol, 122mg sodium.
Pickling foods not only preserves them but also adds extra flavor. The food is first boiled, then pickled with vinegar, spices, and fresh dill. Pickled shrimp is best made a day ahead and refrigerated overnight, making it great for parties.
PREP: 20 minutes plus overnight to marinate
COOK: 5 minutes * MAKES 24 appetizer servings
¼ cup dry sherry
3 teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
3 pounds large shrimp, shelled and deveined, leaving tail part of shell on, if desired
cup fresh lemon juice (about 4 large lemons)
½ cup distilled white vinegar
½ cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoons pickling spices, tied in cheesecloth bag
2 teaspoons sugar
2 dill sprigs
1. In 4-quart saucepan, combine 6 cups water, sherry, 2 teaspoons salt, peppercorns, and bay leaf; heat to boiling over high heat. Add shrimp; heat to boiling. Shrimp should be opaque throughout when water returns to boil; if needed, cook about 1 minute longer. Drain.
2. In large bowl, combine lemon juice, vinegar, oil, pickling spices, sugar, dill, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Add shrimp and toss well to coat. Spoon into ziptight plastic bags, press out air, and seal. Refrigerate shrimp overnight to marinate, turning bags occasionally.
3. Remove shrimp from marinade and arrange in chilled bowl. Serve with cocktail picks.
EACH SERVING: About 69 calories, 9g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 2g total fat (0g saturated), 70mg cholesterol, 166mg sodium.
The outfitting of shrimp boats with refrigeration in the early twentieth century made it possible to transport fresh shrimp to more American cities. The original Rémoulade Sauce, based on mayonnaise and subtly spiced with mustard and horseradish, comes from France.
PREP: 25 minutes plus chilling * COOK: 25 minutes
MAKES 8 appetizer servings
1 lemon, thinly sliced
4 bay leaves
20 whole black peppercorns
10 whole allspice berries
2 teaspoons salt
24 extra-large shrimp (1 pound), shelled and deveined
Red Cocktail Sauce (opposite)
Rémoulade Verte (opposite)
12 small romaine lettuce leaves
24 (7-inch) bamboo skewers
1. In 5-quart Dutch oven, combine 2 quarts water, lemon, bay leaves, peppercorns, allspice berries, and salt; heat to boiling. Cover and boil 15 minutes.
2. Add shrimp; cook just until opaque throughout, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold running water to stop cooking. Cover and refrigerate shrimp up to 24 hours.
3. Prepare Red Cocktail Sauce and/or Rémoulade Verte.
4. Just before serving, place bowls of sauces in center of platter; arrange romaine leaves around bowls, leaf tips facing out. Thread each shrimp on a bamboo skewer and arrange skewers on romaine.
EACH SERVING WITHOUT SAUCE: About 51 calories, 10g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 1g total fat (0g saturated), 70mg cholesterol, 141 mg sodium.
PREP: 15 minutes * MAKES about 1 cup
1 cup bottled cocktail sauce
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons minced jalapeño chile
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
In small bowl, combine cocktail sauce, cilantro, jalapeño, and lime juice until well blended. Cover and refrigerate up to 24 hours.
EACH TABLESPOON: About 18 calories, 0g protein, 4g carbohydrate, 0g total fat (0g saturated), 0mg cholesterol, 191mg sodium.
PREP: 20 minutes * MAKES about cup
cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sour cream
3 tablespoons finely chopped dill pickle
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
¾ teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon or ¼ teaspoon dried tarragon
½ teaspoon chopped fresh chives
1 anchovy fillet, finely chopped
1 teaspoon capers, drained and chopped
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
In small bowl, combine mayonnaise, sour cream, pickle, parsley, tarragon, chives, anchovy, capers, and mustard; stir until well blended. Cover and refrigerate up to 24 hours.
EACH TABLESPOON: About 61 calories, 0g protein, 0g carbohydrate, 6g total fat (1g saturated), 6mg cholesterol, 143mg sodium.
On an otherwise rather typical day in 1964, Teressa Bellissimo, owner of the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, New York, accidentally received too many chicken wings from one of her suppliers. She fried them, swished them in butter, spiced them up with hot sauce, and served the wings with her cooling blue-cheese dressing on the side. This recipe saves on some calories by broiling the wings instead of frying them.
PREP: 15 minutes * BROIL: 20 minutes
MAKES 18 appetizers
4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled (1 cup)
½ cup sour cream
¼ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup milk
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
3 pounds chicken wings (18 wings), tips discarded, if desired
3 tablespoons butter or margarine
¼ cup hot pepper sauce
1 medium bunch celery, cut into sticks
1. Preheat broiler. In medium bowl, combine blue cheese, sour cream, mayonnaise, milk, parsley, lemon juice, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cover and refrigerate.
2. Arrange chicken wings on rack in broiling pan; sprinkle with remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Broil 5 inches from heat source 10 minutes. Turn wings; broil until golden, 10 to 15 minutes longer.
3. Meanwhile, in 1-quart saucepan, melt butter with hot pepper sauce over low heat, stirring occasionally; keep sauce warm.
4. In large bowl, toss wings with seasoned butter to coat well. Arrange chicken wings and celery on platter along with blue-cheese sauce and serve.
EACH APPETIZER (WITHOUT WINGTIP): About 169 calories, 10g protein, 3g carbohydrate, 13g total fat (5g saturated), 39mg cholesterol, 349mg sodium.
The name of this ever-popular hot cheese dish from Switzerland comes from the French word fondre (to melt). This classic version uses Swiss cheese, Gruyère cheese, and white wine to create the perfect balance of flavors.
PREP 15 minutes * COOK 15 minutes
MAKES 6 first-course servings
1 garlic clove, cut in half
1½ cups dry white wine
1 tablespoon kirsch or brandy
8 ounces Swiss or Emmental cheese, shredded (2 cups)
8 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded (2 cups)
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
teaspoon ground black pepper
pinch ground nutmeg
1 loaf (16 ounces) French bread, cut into 1-inch cubes
1. Rub inside of fondue pot or heavy nonreactive 2-quart saucepan with garlic; discard garlic. Pour wine into fondue pot. Heat over medium-low heat until very hot but not boiling; stir in kirsch.
2. Meanwhile, in medium bowl, toss Swiss cheese, Gruyère, and flour until mixed. Add cheese mixture, one handful at a time, to wine, stirring constantly and vigorously until cheese has melted and mixture is thick and smooth. If mixture separates, increase heat to medium, stirring just until smooth. Stir in pepper and nutmeg.
3. Transfer fondue to table; place over tabletop heater to keep hot, if you like. To eat, spear cubes of French bread onto long-handled fondue forks and dip into cheese mixture.
EACH SERVING: About 567 calories, 29g protein, 45g carbohydrate, 25g total fat (14g saturated), 76mg cholesterol, 689mg sodium.
Church suppers and picnics were extremely popular in the mid-twentieth century. At least one platter of deviled eggs was usually served.
PREP: 40 minutes * MAKES 24 deviled eggs
12 large eggs
¼ cup sliced pimientos, chopped
¼ cup low-fat mayonnaise dressing
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)
¼ teaspoon salt
1. In 3-quart saucepan, place eggs and enough cold water to cover by at least 1 inch; heat to boiling over high heat. Immediately remove saucepan from heat and cover tightly; let stand 15 minutes. Pour off hot water and run cold water over eggs to cool. Peel eggs.
2. Cut eggs lengthwise in half. Gently remove yolks and place in small bowl; with fork, finely mash yolks. Stir in pimientos, mayonnaise dressing, mustard, ground red pepper, and salt until well mixed.
3. Place egg-white halves in jelly-roll pan lined with paper towels (to prevent eggs from rolling). Spoon egg-yolk mixture into egg halves. Cover and refrigerate up to 4 hours.
EACH DEVILED EGG: About 45 calories, 3g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 3g total fat (1g saturated), 0g fiber, 106mg cholesterol, 100mg sodium.
These mini meatballs, flavored with typical Mexican spices, make great party fare, especially when served from an elegant chafing dish.
PREP: 30 minutes * COOK: 40 minutes
MAKES 20 appetizer servings
1½ pounds ground beef chuck
¾ cup plain dried bread crumbs
1 large egg
3 garlic cloves, minced
1¼ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ cup water
1 can (28 ounces) plum tomatoes
1 chipotle chile in adobo*
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 cup canned chicken broth or Old-Fashioned Chicken Broth (page 49)
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
1. In large bowl, combine ground beef, bread crumbs, egg, one-third of garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper, and water just until well blended but not overmixed. Shape mixture into ¾-inch meatballs, handling meat as little as possible.
2. In blender, at low speed, puree tomatoes with their juice and chipotle chile until smooth.
3. In nonreactive 5-quart Dutch oven, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion; cook, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in cumin and remaining garlic; cook 30 seconds. Stir in tomato mixture, broth, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt; heat to boiling over high heat.
4. Add meatballs; heat to boiling. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 30 minutes. Transfer mixture to chafing dish and sprinkle with cilantro. Serve with cocktail picks.
*Canned chipotle chiles in adobo (smoked jalapeño chiles in a vinegary marinade) are available in Hispanic markets and in the ethnic section of some supermarkets.
EACH SERVING: About 125 calories, 8g protein, 5g carbohydrate, 8g total fat (3g saturated), 31mg cholesterol, 310mg sodium.
The Chafing Dish
Culinary historian Evan Jones cites the chafing dish as “an important part of American dining room paraphernalia as early as the mid-1800s.” Delmonico’s in New York City was one of the first restaurants to serve food in a sterling-silver covered dish set over a low flame. Other restaurants quickly followed suit. Chafing dishes often featured foods such as turkey tetrazzini: diced cooked turkey dressed up with a rich cream sauce. By the mid-1900s, chafing dishes started appearing on buffet tables everywhere to keep such popular foods as chicken à la king hot until guests helped themselves.