Chapter 6

From the Butcher’s Block

Meat has always been a major part of the American diet. Early on, wild game was plentiful, and the settlers, took full advantage. When supplies began to dwindle, the colonists began raising pork, mutton, and beef, with pork the most plentiful and popular of the three. The smokehouse supplied succulent smoked hams and slabs of bacon. Meat was served at least once a day: rib-sticking stews, New England boiled-beef-and-vegetables, wursts and sauerkraut in German settlements in New York and Pennsylvania, and hog and hominy suppers in the South.

During the nineteenth century, known as the “bountiful harvest” century, Americans moved West, built ranches, and raised cattle on the open range. Beef and other meats were packed into railroad cars and transported to cities and towns nationwide.

Simple, straightforward preparations, such as frying, braising, stewing, and roasting, remained popular. But with the greater availability of meat in the early twentieth century, homemakers became more creative, inspired by women’s magazines and food manufacturers who provided hostesses with never-fail and elegant ways to prepare and present dishes, such as crown roast of pork stuffed with a savory sausage dressing.

During the depression, meat was often stretched into meat-and-potato pies, ground-meat casseroles, and vegetable-meat stews. After World War II, however, meat dishes with European, Middle Eastern, and Southeast Asian influences were enjoyed.

In the 1960s, meats went gourmet. This was due in large part to Julia Child and her entertaining, instructive television series The French Chef. With her help, housewives across America wowed guests with specialties such as Beef Wellington and Beef Bourguignon. But by the end of the century, health concerns brought leaner beef and pork, with hardly a trace of visible fat, to the market. As the century came to a close, celebrity chefs taught us how to bring back the flavor by blackening, marinating, brining, and dry rubbing almost every type of meat, thereby continuing America’s love of meat.

Roasted Prime Ribs of Beef

Roasted Prime Ribs of Beef

(pictured on page 126)

In the late nineteenth century, beef was often on the menu—and it still is. In our recipe, roast beef is served the most impressive way, as roasted prime ribs of beef with Yorkshire Pudding. The English colonists loved pudding and often served Yorkshire Pudding with their beef roast. The recipe for this savory pan pudding hasn’t changed much. The key is the delectable pan drippings that are stirred into the custard mixture. James Beard advises in American Cookery: “The first three ribs are considered the best, although in my opinion, a larger roast is preferable—the first five ribs, well trimmed, so that carving will be easy.”

PREP: 15 minutes * ROAST: 2 hours 30 minutes

MAKES 8 main-dish servings

1 (3-rib) beef rib roast from small end (5½ pounds), trimmed and chine bone removed

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 lemon

1½ cups fresh bread crumbs

(about 3 slices bread)

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard Creamy Horseradish Sauce (at right)

Yorkshire Pudding (opposite)

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. In medium roasting pan (14″ by 10″), place rib roast, fat side up. In small bowl, combine salt, rosemary, and pepper. Use to rub on roast.

2. Roast until meat thermometer inserted in thickest part of meat (not touching bone) reaches 140°F, about 2 hours 30 minutes. Internal temperature of meat will rise to 145°F (medium) upon standing. Or roast until desired degree of doneness.

3. About 1 hour before roast is done, prepare bread coating: From lemon, grate ½ teaspoon peel and squeeze 1 tablespoon juice. In small bowl, combine lemon peel and juice, bread crumbs, parsley, garlic, and oil. Remove roast from oven; evenly spread mustard on top of roast. Press bread-crumb mixture onto mustard-coated roast. Roast 1 hour longer or until desired doneness.

4. Meanwhile, prepare Creamy Horseradish Sauce.

5. When roast is done, transfer to warm large platter and let stand 15 minutes to set the juices for easier carving.

6. Meanwhile, prepare Yorkshire Pudding. Serve alongside roast and Creamy Horseradish Sauce.

 

EACH SERVING: About 352 calories, 39g protein, 5g carbohydrate, 18g total fat (7g saturated), 112mg cholesterol, 508mg sodium.

Roasted Prime Ribs of Beef

Creamy Horseradish Sauce

In small bowl, combine 1 bottle (6 ounces) white horseradish, drained, ½ cup mayonnaise, 1 teaspoon sugar, and ½ teaspoon salt. Whip ½ cup heavy or whipping cream; fold into horseradish mixture. Makes about 1 cups.

 

EACH TABLESPOON: About 49 calories, 0g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 5g total fat (2g saturated), 9mg cholesterol, 74mg sodium.

Yorkshire Pudding

Turn oven control to 450°F. In medium bowl, with wire whisk, combine 1½ cups all-purpose flour and ¾ teaspoon salt. Add 1½ cups milk and 3 large eggs, beaten. Beat until smooth. Pour 3 tablespoons drippings from roast beef pan into 13″ by 9″ baking pan; bake 2 minutes. Remove pan from oven; pour batter over drippings. Bake until puffed and lightly browned, about 25 minutes. Cut into squares. Makes 8 accompaniment servings.

 

EACH SERVING: About 183 calories, 6g protein, 20g carbohydrate, 8g total fat (4g saturated), 90mg cholesterol, 246mg sodium.

Roasted Beef Tenderloin

The most tender of all cuts of beef—the tenderloin—has very little fat. Until the 1900s, the traditional way to prepare beef tenderloin was to marinate and then roast it. It was often larded (filled with strips of pork fat) to keep it moist.

PREP: 20 minutes plus marinating

ROAST: 40 minutes

MAKES 10 main-dish servings

MARINADE & BEEF

2 cups dry red wine 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, sliced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves

2 garlic cloves, crushed with garlic press

2 bay leaves

1 whole beef tenderloin (about 4 pounds),* trimmed

¼ cup cracked black peppercorns

HORSERADISH-TARRAGON SAUCE

cup mayonnaise

½ cup sour cream

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves

2 tablespoons bottled white horseradish, drained

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1. Prepare marinade: In jumbo (2-gallon) ziptight plastic bag, combine red wine, oil, onion, rosemary, garlic, and bay leaves. Add tenderloin, turning to coat. Seal bag, pressing out as much air as possible. Place bag in shallow baking dish; refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight, turning bag occasionally.

2. Preheat oven to 425°F. Remove meat from marinade; turn thinner end of meat under to make meat an even thickness. With string, tie tenderloin at 2-inch intervals to help hold its shape. Place peppercorns on waxed paper. Press tenderloin into peppercorns, turning to coat.

3. Place tenderloin on rack in large roasting pan (17″ by 11½″); roast until meat thermometer inserted in center of meat reaches 140°F, 40 to 45 minutes. Internal temperature of meat will rise to 145°F (medium) upon standing. Or roast until desired doneness. Transfer tenderloin to warm large platter; let stand 10 minutes to set juices for easier slicing.

4. Meanwhile, prepare horseradish-tarragon sauce: In small bowl, combine mayonnaise, sour cream, tarragon, horseradish, and mustard; stir until well blended. Cover beef and refrigerate if not serving right away.

5. To serve, remove string and cut tenderloin into slices. Serve with horseradish-tarragon sauce.

*If you buy an untrimmed tenderloin, it should weigh 6 to 6½ pounds to yield about 4 pounds trimmed.

 

EACH SERVING WITH SAUCE: About 495 calories, 44g protein, 3g carbohydrate, 34g total fat (10g saturated), 137mg cholesterol, 250mg sodium.

Steak Diane

If you were lucky enough to dine at New York City’s ‘21’ Club in the late 1940s, (known as the ‘21’ back then) you would likely have seen this steak (with its flaming brandy sauce) being served from a gleaming copper chafing dish.

PREP: 10 minutes * COOK: 20 minutes

MAKES 4 main-dish servings

2 beef rib-eye steaks, ¾ inch thick (about 12 ounces each), trimmed

salt

ground black pepper

4 tablespoons butter or margarine

¼ cup brandy

2 small shallots, minced

3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

½ cup dry sherry

1. With meat mallet or with rolling pin, between two sheets of plastic wrap or waxed paper, pound steaks to ¼-inch thickness. Sprinkle both sides of steaks with salt and pepper.

2. In chafing dish or 12-inch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over high heat. Add 1 steak; cook until browned, 3 to 4 minutes per side.

3. Pour 2 tablespoons brandy over steak and carefully ignite with match. When flaming stops, stir in half of shallots and half of chives. Cook, stirring constantly, until shallots are tender, about 1 minute. Add ¼ cup sherry; heat through.

4. Place steak on warm dinner plate and pour one-fourth of sherry mixture over. Keep warm. Repeat with remaining rib-eye steak.

 

EACH SERVING: About 377 calories, 27g protein, 2g carbohydrate, 23g total fat (11g saturated), 110mg cholesterol, 205mg sodium.

Filet Mignon with Béarnaise Sauce

Filet mignon made its debut at New York’s Architectural League in 1899. In this recipe, the filet is accompanied by a traditional béarnaise sauce: a thick hollandaise made with tarragon vinegar and white wine instead of lemon juice.

PREP: 5 minutes * COOK: 25 minutes

MAKES 4 main-dish servings

Béarnaise Sauce (below)

4 beef tenderloin steaks (filet mignon), 1½ inches thick (6 ounces each), trimmed

½teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

1. Prepare Béarnaise Sauce; keep warm.

2. Sprinkle steaks with salt and pepper. In nonstick 12-inch skillet, heat oil over high heat until very hot. Add steaks and cook, without turning, until browned, about 7 minutes. Turn steaks and cook 7 minutes longer for medium-rare or until desired doneness. Transfer to plates; keep warm.

3. To serve, spoon Béarnaise Sauce over meat.

 

EACH SERVING: About 302 calories, 35g protein, 0g carbohydrate, 17g total fat (5g saturated), 105mg cholesterol, 381mg sodium.

Béarnaise Sauce

In nonreactive 1-quart saucepan, combine ½ cup tarragon vinegar, ¼ cup dry white wine, and 2 finely chopped shallots; heat to boiling over high heat. Boil until liquid has reduced to ¼ cup, about 7 minutes. With back of spoon, press mixture through fine sieve into medium bowl.

With wire whisk, beat in 3 large egg yolks, ¼ cup water, and pinch of ground black pepper. Set bowl over saucepan of simmering water. Heat, whisking constantly, until egg-yolk mixture bubbles around edge and has thickened, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to very low. With wire whisk, whisk in ½ cup cold butter (1 stick), cut into 8 pieces (do not use margarine), one piece at a time, whisking to incorporate each piece of butter completely before adding more. Stir in 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon. Makes 1 cup.

 

EACH TABLESPOON: About 68 calories, 1g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 7g total fat (4g saturated),
55mg cholesterol, 60mg sodium.

Mom’s Pot Roast

To braise beef, Fannie Farmer advised in The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book of 1896: “[Begin] with 3 Lbs. beef from lower part of round or face of rump. Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and brown entire surface in pork fat. When turning meat, avoid piercing with fork or skewer, which allows the inner juices to escape. Place on trivet in deep granite pan or in earthen pudding-dish, and surround with vegetables, peppercorns, and three cups boiling water; cover closely, and bake four hours in very slow oven, basting every half-hour, and turn after second hour. Throughout the cooking, the liquid should be kept below the boiling point. Serve with Horseradish Sauce or with brown sauce made from the liquor in pan.” Today we call it pot roast.

PREP: 25 minutes * BAKE: 3 hours
MAKES 8 main-dish servings

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 boneless beef chuck cross-rib pot roast or boneless chuck eye roast (4 pounds), trimmed

1 large onion (12 ounces), coarsely chopped 1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 can (15 ounces) crushed tomatoes

½ cup canned chicken broth or Old-Fashioned Chicken Broth (page 49)

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 bay leaf

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. In nonreactive 5-quart Dutch oven, heat oil over high heat until very hot. Add roast and cook until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer roast to plate.

2. Add onion, carrot, and celery to Dutch oven; cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add garlic; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Return roast to Dutch oven; add tomatoes, broth, salt, thyme, pepper, and bay leaf; heat to boiling. Cover and place in oven. Bake, turning roast once, until roast is tender, about 3 hours.

3. When roast is done, transfer to large platter and keep warm. Discard bay leaf. Skim and discard fat from liquid in Dutch oven. Transfer half of vegetables and liquid to blender; cover, with center part of cover removed to let steam escape, and puree until smooth. Pour pureed mixture back into Dutch oven and stir until combined; heat to boiling. Cut meat into thin slices and serve with the vegetables and sauce.

 

EACH SERVING: About 304 calories, 35g protein, 6g carbohydrate, 15g total fat (5g saturated), 114mg cholesterol, 573mg sodium.

New York Strip with Maître d’Hôtel Butter

Whether you know this steak as Kansas City strip, New York strip, or shell steak, it’s guaranteed to be flavorful.

PREP: 10 minutes plus chilling * COOK: 10 minutes

MAKES 4 servings

¼ cup butter or margarine, softened

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

¼ teaspoon freshly grated lemon peel

1½ teaspoons fresh lemon juice

4 boneless beef strip (shell) steaks, 1 inch thick (about 8 ounces each), trimmed

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1. In small bowl, beat butter, parsley, and lemon peel and juice with wooden spoon until well blended. Transfer butter mixture to waxed paper and shape into log about 3 inches long. Wrap, twisting ends of waxed paper to seal. Refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours.

2. For grilling: Prepare grill. Sprinkle steaks with salt and pepper. Place steaks on grill over medium-high heat; grill steaks 5 to 6 minutes per side for medium-rare or until desired doneness.

3. For cast-iron skillet: Heat 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Sprinkle steaks with salt and pepper. Add steaks; cook 5 to 6 minutes per side for medium-rare or until desired doneness.

4. Cut chilled butter into ½-inch-thick slices. Top each steak with pat of butter and serve.

 

EACH SERVING: About 383 calories, 43g protein, 0g carbohydrate, 22g total fat (11g saturated), 147mg cholesterol, 523mg sodium.

Shaker Flank Steak

The Shakers formed communities throughout New England in the nineteenth century. Our recipe for flank steak simmered in a fresh vegetable sauce illustrates the Shakers’ love of straightforward cooking using homegrown foods.

PREP: 20 minutes * COOK: 1 hour 45 minutes

MAKES 4 servings

1 beef flank steak (1¼ pounds)

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

1 stalk celery, chopped

1 cup water

½ cup ketchup

1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1. Sprinkle flank steak with ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Coat steak lightly with flour, shaking off excess flour.

2. In 12-inch skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add steak and cook until browned, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer steak to plate.

3. Reduce heat to medium-low. To drippings in skillet, add onion, carrot, and celery. Cook, stirring, until vegetables have lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in water and ketchup. Return steak to skillet; heat to boiling. Reduce heat; cover and simmer, turning once, until meat is tender, about 1 hour 30 minutes.

4. Transfer steak to cutting board. Turn off heat; stir lemon juice, remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper into sauce in skillet. Slice steak thinly across grain. Transfer to warm platter. Spoon some sauce over meat; serve remaining sauce alongside.

 

EACH SERVING: About 378 calories, 29g protein, 15g carbohydrate, 22g total fat (7g saturated), 74mg cholesterol, 642mg sodium.

Chicken-Fried Steak with Milk Gravy

Not chicken at all, but beef steak pounded thin, then battered and fried until crispy and golden, just like fried chicken. It’s been a staple on menus in the Deep South for decades and is almost always served with a creamy milk pan gravy.

PREP: 10 minutes * COOK: 20 minutes

MAKES 6 main-dish servings

¾ cup all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

⅛ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

6 beef cubed steaks (6 ounces each)

½ cup vegetable oil

½ cup beef broth

2 cups milk

1. Preheat oven to 200°F. Line jelly-roll pan with paper towels. On waxed paper, combine flour, salt, paprika, black pepper, and ground red pepper. Reserve 3 tablespoons seasoned-flour mixture. Coat cubed steaks with remaining flour mixture, shaking off excess.

2. In 12-inch skillet, heat oil to 375°F. Cook steaks, two at a time, 2 minutes; turn and cook 1 minute longer. Transfer steaks to paper towel-lined jelly-roll pan to drain; place in oven. Repeat with remaining steaks, transferring each batch to jelly-roll pan in oven when done.

3. Discard all but 2 tablespoons oil from skillet. Reduce heat to medium-high. Stir in reserved flour mixture; cook, stirring, 1 minute. With wire whisk, whisk in broth until browned bits are loosened from bottom of skillet; boil 1 minute. Whisk in milk and heat to boiling; boil 2 minutes. Makes 2 cups.

4. Place steaks on platter and serve with gravy.

 

EACH SERVING WITH GRAVY: About 385 calories, 38g protein, 16g carbohydrate, 18g total fat (5g saturated), 103mg cholesterol, 757mg sodium.

Swiss Steak

“Swissing” is a technique of smoothing cloth by running it between rollers, much the same as round steak is processed to make Swiss Steak.

PREP: 25 minutes * COOK: 1 hour 30 minutes

MAKES 6 servings

1 boneless round steak, ½ inch thick (1½ pounds), trimmed and cut into 6 pieces

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

¼ cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup olive oil

1 medium onion, halved and sliced

½ pound mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

1 green pepper, sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon dried thyme

¾ cup dry red wine or beef broth

1 can (14½ ounces) stewed tomatoes

1. Sprinkle steaks with ½ teaspoon salt and pepper. Coat lightly with flour, shaking off excess.

2. In 12-inch skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until hot. Cook steaks, in batches, until browned, about 4 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate.

3. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion, mushrooms, green pepper, garlic, thyme, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until vegetables are tender, about 6 minutes. Add wine; cook, stirring until browned bits are loosened from bottom of pan, about 1 minute. Stir in stewed tomatoes.

4. Return steaks to skillet, pressing them down into the liquid and vegetables; heat to boiling. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until steaks are fork-tender, 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

 

EACH SERVING: About 290 calories, 26g protein, 15g carbohydrate, 14g total fat (3g saturated), 61 mg cholesterol, 506mg sodium.

Deviled Short Ribs

In eighteenth century England, “Deviled Bones” were popular dinner fare. Craig Claiborne elaborates in The New York Times Food Encyclopedia: “The bones were generally those of cold poultry, game, or beef. The pieces of meat were covered with one of three kinds of devil sauces: mustard, curry or white.” Our deviled ribs are marinated in a mustard-based sauce.

PREP: 10 minutes plus marinating

ROAST: 2 hours 45 minutes

MAKES 6 main-dish servings

6 tablespoons spicy brown mustard

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 tablespoons green jalapeño sauce

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

4 pounds beef chuck short ribs

¾ teaspoon ground black pepper

1½ cups fresh bread crumbs (about 3 slices bread)

1. In small bowl, combine 3 tablespoons mustard, vinegar, 1 tablespoon jalapeño sauce, and Worcestershire; with wire whisk, whisk until blended. Transfer to ziptight plastic bag; add short ribs, turning to coat. Seal bag, pressing out as much air as possible. Refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours to marinate.

2. Preheat oven to 425°F. Arrange ribs on rack in medium roasting pan (14″ by 10″); brush with remaining marinade. Roast 40 minutes. Turn oven control to 325°F; roast 1 hour 20 minutes longer.

3. In small bowl, combine remaining 3 tablespoons mustard, remaining 1 tablespoon jalapeno sauce, and pepper. Brush on tops of ribs. Press bread crumbs onto coated ribs; roast until crumbs are crisp and lightly browned, 45 minutes longer.

 

EACH SERVING: About 762 calories, 34g protein, 6g carbohydrate, 64g total fat (27g saturated), 143mg cholesterol, 400mg sodium.

Blackened Steaks

French Canadians exiled in the 1750s for refusing to swear allegiance to the British crown settled in the low bayou country near New Orleans. Soon known as Cajuns, their cooking was highly spiced and quite distinctive.

PREP: 5 minutes * COOK: 10 minutes

MAKES 4 main-dish servings

1 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

1 teaspoon onion powder (not onion salt)

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

¼ teaspoon sugar

4 boneless beef strip (shell) steaks, 1 inch thick (8 ounces each), trimmed

2 teaspoons olive oil

1. In bowl, combine thyme, onion powder, salt, black pepper, ground red pepper, and sugar. Use to rub on both sides of steaks.

2. In 12-inch cast-iron skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add steaks; cook 5 to 6 minutes per side for medium-rare or until desired doneness.

 

EACH SERVING: About 293 calories, 37g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 14g total fat (5g saturated), 98mg cholesterol, 362mg sodium.

Beef Pizzaiolo

Beef pizzaiolo shares its topping’s main ingredients of tomatoes, peppers, and onions with that of its “cousin,” pizza.

PREP: 15 minutes * COOK: 25 minutes

MAKES 4 main-dish servings

2 boneless beef top loin steaks, ¾ inch thick (10 ounces each), trimmed

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large onion (12 ounces), cut in half and sliced

1 small red pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 small green pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 garlic cloves, crushed with garlic press

½ cup canned chicken broth or Old-Fashioned Chicken Broth (page 49)

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

8 cherry tomatoes, each cut in half

½ cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves, chopped, plus additional sprigs

1. Pat steaks dry with paper towels. Sprinkle steaks with ¼ teaspoon salt and black pepper.

2. Heat nonstick 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add steaks; cook 4 minutes. Turn steaks over; cook 4 to 5 minutes longer for medium-rare or until desired doneness. Transfer steaks to platter; cover with foil to keep warm.

3. In same skillet, heat oil over medium heat until hot. Add onion, red and green peppers, garlic, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring often, until vegetables are tender and golden, about 10 minutes.

4. Increase heat to medium-high. Stir in broth, vinegar, sugar, and cherry tomatoes; heat to boiling. Cook 1 minute. Remove skillet from heat and stir in chopped fresh basil.

5. To serve, slice steaks and arrange on 4 dinner plates; top with pepper mixture. Garnish with the basil sprigs.

 

EACH SERVING: About 315 calories, 32g protein, 16g carbohydrate, 13g total fat (4g saturated), 88mg cholesterol, 450mg sodium.

Grillades and Grits

Sunday brunch is a weekly ritual in Louisiana, where grillades and grits is almost always on the menu. The only variable is the meat: Cajuns often use pork, Creole restaurants in New Orleans serve white veal, and the Afro-Americans use baby beef. All, however, serve it on top of a mound of grits with a ladleful of brown tomato sauce over all.

PREP: 15 minutes * COOK: 1 hour

MAKES 4 main-dish servings

4 beef minute steaks (6 ounces each)

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

3 teaspoons vegetable oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 green pepper, chopped

1 stalk celery, chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 can (14 to 16 ounces) tomatoes in puree

1 cup beef broth

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

2 bay leaves

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

hot cooked old-fashioned or quick hominy grits

1. Sprinkle beef with salt and black pepper. In nonstick 12-inch skillet, heat 1 teaspoon oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add steaks and cook until browned, about 2 minutes per side, transferring steaks to plate as they are browned.

2. Add remaining 2 teaspoons oil to skillet; reduce heat to medium. Add onion; cook, stirring, 5 minutes. Add green pepper, celery, and garlic; cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add tomatoes with their puree, breaking them up with side of spoon. Stir in broth, Worcestershire, and bay leaves. Increase heat to high; heat to boiling.

3. Return steaks to skillet; reduce heat. Cover and simmer 40 minutes. Transfer steaks to platter; keep warm. Increase heat to high; stir in vinegar and heat to boiling. Boil until sauce has thickened, about 5 minutes. Discard bay leaves. To serve, spoon sauce over steaks and pass grits separately.

 

EACH SERVING: About 437 calories, 37g protein, 13g carbohydrate, 26g total fat (9g saturated), 107mg cholesterol, 772mg sodium.

Salisbury Steak

Civil War soldiers who suffered stomach problems were served chopped beef patties by Dr. James Henry Salisbury. A recipe carrying Salisbury’s name appeared in print around 1888.

PREP: 25 minutes * COOK: 35 minutes

MAKES 4 main-dish servings

1 large onion (12 ounces), halved

1¼ pounds ground beef chuck

¼ cup finely crushed saltine crackers (about 6 crackers)

¼ cup milk

1 large egg, lightly beaten

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

10 ounces mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

1 can (14½ ounces) beef broth

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1. Mince enough onion to equal ¼ cup. Thinly slice remaining onion. In large bowl, combine minced onion, ground beef, crushed crackers, milk, egg, ¼ teaspoon salt, and teaspoon pepper just until well blended but not overmixed. Shape mixture into 4 oval patties, about ¾ inch thick, handling meat as little as possible.

2. In nonstick 12-inch skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add beef patties; cook until browned, about 4 minutes per side, reducing heat if necessary. With spatula, transfer patties to plate. Discard all but 2 tablespoons drippings from skillet. Add sliced onion, mushrooms, remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, and remaining teaspoon pepper to skillet. Cover; cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is tender, about 10 minutes.

3. In small bowl, blend broth and flour until smooth; add to skillet. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly. Return patties to skillet, pressing them down into sauce. Reduce heat to low; simmer, turning once, until patties are cooked through, about 10 minutes.

 

EACH SERVING: About 408 calories, 35g protein, 20g carbohydrate, 21g total fat (7g saturated), 149mg cholesterol, 835mg sodium.

Nana’s Meat Loaf

According to James Beard, the meat loaf we know today did not become a mainstay of our diet until the twentieth century. Properly prepared, meat loaf resembles a good pâté: highly seasoned, firm and moist, and equally delicious hot or cold. What’s the secret to a tender and tasty loaf? Always, always use ground chuck. Our recipe comes from the “Susan, Our Teenage Cook” series, which ran in Good Housekeeping magazine for decades.

PREP: 15 minutes * BAKE: 1 hour

MAKES 8 main-dish servings

2 pounds ground beef chuck

2 large eggs

2 cups fresh bread crumbs (about 4 slices bread)

2 green onions, finely chopped

1 medium onion, finely chopped

¾ cup ketchup

¼ cup milk

2 tablespoons bottled white horseradish

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. In large bowl, combine ground beef, eggs, bread crumbs, green onions, onion, ¼ cup ketchup, milk, horseradish, salt, and dry mustard just until well blended but not overmixed.

2. Spoon mixture into 9″ by 5″ metal loaf pan, pressing firmly. Spread remaining ½ cup ketchup on top of loaf. Bake 1 hour. Let meat loaf stand 10 minutes to set juices for easier slicing.

 

EACH SERVING: About 283 calories, 27g protein, 15g carbohydrate, 13g total fat (5g saturated), 125mg cholesterol, 845mg sodium.

Meat Loaf Surprise

Meat Loaf Surprise

“Surprise” variations of favorite recipes became very popular in the mid-1900s. Sometimes mashed potatoes were piped on top of ground-meat pies, while other times potatoes were rolled up inside a meat loaf jelly-roll fashion. Our Meat Loaf Surprise contains not only potatoes but a layer of spinach too.

PREP: 30 minutes * BAKE: 1 hour 15 minutes

MAKES 8 main-dish servings

1½ pounds all-purpose potatoes (about 3 large), peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces

¼ cup milk

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1¼ teaspoons salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 can (14½ ounces) diced tomatoes

½ cup water

2 pounds ground beef chuck

2 large eggs

¾ cup seasoned dried bread crumbs

¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 garlic clove, minced

1 package (10 ounces) frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

1. In 3-quart saucepan, combine potatoes and enough water to cover; heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer until potatoes are fork-tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain potatoes and return to saucepan. Add milk, butter, ½ teaspoon salt, and teaspoon pepper. With potato masher, mash potatoes until mixture is smooth; set aside.

2. Preheat oven to 350°F. In blender or in food processor with knife blade attached, puree tomatoes with their juice and water until smooth.

3. In large bowl, mix ground beef, eggs, bread crumbs, Parmesan, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, remaining teaspoon pepper, and ½ cup tomato mixture until well combined but not overmixed.

4. On 14″ by 12″ sheet of waxed paper, pat meat mixture into 11″ by 9″ rectangle. Spread mashed potatoes over meat rectangle leaving 1-inch border all around. Spoon spinach over potatoes; sprinkle with remaining ¼ teaspoon salt.

5. Starting at a narrow end, roll up layered meat mixture jelly-roll fashion, lifting waxed paper and using long metal spatula to help loosen meat from waxed paper. Carefully place rolled meat loaf, seam side down, in 13″ by 9″ baking dish.

6. Pour remaining tomato mixture over and around meat loaf. Bake 1 hour 15 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes to set juices for easier slicing.

 

EACH SERVING: About 374 calories, 30g protein, 24g carbohydrate, 17g total fat (8g saturated), 138mg cholesterol, 955mg sodium.

Barbecued Beef Brisket

Texas has always been known for its grand barbecues, many times with beef brisket slow-roasting over a pit for hours until meltingly tender.

PREP: 15 minutes

COOK/GRILL: 3 hours 35 minutes

MAKES 12 main-dish servings

BRISKET

1 fresh beef brisket (4½ pounds), trimmed

1 medium onion, cut into quarters

1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 1½-inch pieces

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

¼ teaspoon whole allspice

CHUNKY BBQ SAUCE

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 large onion (12 ounces), finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons minced, peeled fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 can (14½ ounces) tomatoes in puree, chopped

1 bottle (12 ounces) chili sauce

⅓ cup cider vinegar

2 tablespoons light (mild) molasses 2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 teaspoons dry mustard

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 tablespoons water

1. Prepare brisket: In 8-quart Dutch oven, place brisket, onion, carrot, bay leaf, peppercorns, allspice, and enough water to cover; heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until meat is tender, about 3 hours.

2. Meanwhile, prepare chunky BBQ sauce: In nonstick 12-inch skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and ginger; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in cumin; cook 1 minute. Stir in tomatoes with their puree, chili sauce, vinegar, molasses, brown sugar, and dry mustard; heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat; simmer, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in cup, blend cornstarch and water until smooth. Stir cornstarch mixture into sauce. Heat to boiling, stirring; boil 1 minute. Cover and refrigerate sauce if not using right away. Makes about 4 cups.

4. When brisket is done, transfer to platter. If not serving right away, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

5. Prepare grill. Place brisket on grill (preferably one with a cover). Cover and cook over medium heat 10 minutes. Turn brisket and cook 5 minutes longer. Spoon 1 cup barbecue sauce on top of brisket; cook until brisket is heated through, about 5 minutes. (Do not turn brisket after topping with sauce.) Reheat remaining sauce in small saucepan on grill. Slice brisket thinly across the grain and serve with sauce.

 

EACH SERVING: About 241 calories, 26g protein, 6g carbohydrate, 11g total fat (4g saturated), 81 mg cholesterol, 174mg sodium.

EACH ¼ CUP SAUCE: About 61 calories, 1g protein, 13g carbohydrate, 1g total fat (0g saturated), 0mg cholesterol, 328mg sodium.

Beef Stroganoff

This dish was named in honor of a member of the Stroganov family, who were affluent Russian merchants. Stroganoff usually begins with the finest beef tenderloin, which is quickly cooked in a hot skillet and covered with sour cream sauce that is flavored with fresh or dried tarragon and paprika. Sometimes a splash of brandy is added, as in our classic rendition.

PREP: 15 minutes * COOK: 30 minutes

MAKES 4 main-dish servings

1 pound beef tenderloin, trimmed

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

¾ cup canned chicken broth or Old-Fashioned Chicken Broth (page 49)

1 teaspoon Hungarian sweet paprika

4 ounces mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon brandy

½ teaspoon dried tarragon, crumbled

½ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper

½ cup sour cream

3 teaspoons chopped fresh dill or flat-leaf parsley

1. Cut tenderloin into -inch-thick slices, then cut into 1½″ by ″ strips.

2. In 12-inch skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add half of beef (do not crowd); cook until browned on both sides, about 4 minutes, using slotted spoon to transfer meat to bowl as it is browned. Repeat with remaining beef strips.

3. Reduce heat to medium-low. Stir in onion and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add ¼ cup broth and paprika; cook, stirring, until onion is very tender, about 5 minutes longer.

4. Add mushrooms, lemon juice, brandy, tarragon, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring, until mushrooms are tender and almost all liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes.

5. Stir in beef, remaining ½ cup broth, sour cream, and 2 teaspoons dill. Cook until heated through (do not boil), about 2 minutes. To serve, sprinkle with remaining 1 teaspoon dill.

 

EACH SERVING: About 336 calories, 26g protein, 7g carbohydrate, 21 g total fat (11g saturated), 99mg cholesterol, 599mg sodium.

Spiced Beef (or Beef a la Mode)

One piece of the round of beef (known as the “pot roast”), weighing from three to five pounds. Put two tablespoons of butter in stewing kettle over a hot fire; when butter melts, brown the meat on both sides. Remove the meat temporarily and add flour to the butter; let it brown and thicken, then add three pints of boiling water, one bay leaf, one sprig of celery, some parsley, and one large onion with a clove stuck in it, two carrots, one turnip, one tablespoon of salt and one shake of pepper. Replace the meat in this liquid at once and let it simmer for at least six hours. Turn the meat over and stir it occasionally. The secret of the success with this dish is slow cooking. When finished it should be as tender as bread. Place the meat on a hot platter, strain the gravy over it and serve garnished with sliced boiled carrots and sprigs of parsley. The gravy should be thick and of a dark brown color.

Good Housekeeping Everyday Cook Book, 1903

Cottage Pie

This recipe is similar to one of Ireland’s most favorite dishes, shepherd’s pie, which is made with a savory lamb filling and topped with puffs of mashed potatoes. Cottage pie is usually made with ground beef. In Fannie Farmer’s original cookbook, it is made with chopped roasted beef that is sandwiched between two layers of mashed potatoes: one layer is the crust and the other’s the topping.

PREP: 40 minutes * BAKE: 20 minutes

MAKES 4 main-dish servings

2 pounds all-purpose potatoes (6 medium), peeled and cut into quarters

½ cup milk

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 teaspoon salt

¼ plus ⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 medium onion, chopped

2 carrots, peeled and chopped

1 pound ground beef chuck

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

¼ cup dry red wine

1 cup canned chicken broth or Old-Fashioned Chicken Broth (page 49)

¼ teaspoon dried thyme

1 cup frozen peas

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. In 4-quart saucepan, combine potatoes and enough water to cover; heat to boiling. Boil until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes; drain and return to saucepan. With potato masher, mash potatoes with milk and 2 tablespoons butter. Stir in ¼ cup Parmesan, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper; set mashed potatoes aside.

2. Meanwhile, in nonstick 10-inch skillet, melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat. Add onion and carrots; cook until vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Add ground beef and cook over medium-high heat, breaking up meat with side of spoon, until beef is no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Skim and discard fat. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute longer. Stir in wine and cook until wine has evaporated. Add broth, thyme, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining teaspoon pepper, stirring until browned bits are loosened from bottom of skillet. Heat to boiling; stir in peas.

3. Transfer beef mixture to 9-inch deep-dish pie plate. Spoon mashed potatoes on top; spread evenly. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon Parmesan. Place pie on foil-lined cookie sheet and bake until slightly browned, about 20 minutes.

 

EACH SERVING: About 554 calories, 34g protein, 50gcarbohydrate, 24g total fat (12g saturated), 107mg cholesterol, 1,282mg sodium.

Oven Beef Stew

Our forefathers served a one-pot stew called beef with dumplings. They simmered cubes of beef with a simple bouquet of vegetables in a large pot and added a layer of dumplings for the last fifteen minutes of cooking. It wasn’t until the late 1800s that the technique of browning the beef, then finishing the stew in the oven became popular.

PREP: 30 minutes * BAKE: 2 hours

MAKES 6 main-dish servings

2½ pounds beef chuck, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

4 teaspoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon butter or margarine 1 large onion (12 ounces), chopped

1 stalk celery, chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

½ teaspoon dried thyme

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups canned chicken broth or Old-Fashioned Chicken Broth (page 49)

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 bay leaf

4 large carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces

1 pound all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Pat beef dry with paper towels. In bowl, toss beef with ½ teaspoon salt and the pepper.

2. In nonreactive 5-quart Dutch oven, heat 2 teaspoons oil over medium-high heat. Add half of beef; cook until well browned, about 5 minutes, using slotted spoon to transfer meat to bowl as it is browned. Repeat with remaining beef, adding 2 teaspoons oil if necessary.

3. Reduce heat to medium; add butter and heat until melted. Add onion, celery, garlic, thyme, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Cook until onions and celery are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in flour; cook 1 minute. Stir in broth, tomato paste, and bay leaf; cook, stirring until browned bits are loosened from bottom of pot.

4. Return beef to Dutch oven; heat to boiling. Cover tightly and bake 1 hour. Stir in carrots and potatoes; cover and bake until meat and vegetables are fork-tender, about 1 hour. Sprinkle with parsley.

 

EACH SERVING: About 375 calories, 32g protein, 26g carbohydrate, 16g total fat (6g saturated), 100mg cholesterol, 910mg sodium.

Tamale Pie

The roots of this pie date back to the Aztecs in Tenochtitl´n (Mexico City), who served Cortés tamalli, meat that is coated with cornmeal dough and steamed inside a softened cornhusk. Recipes for tamale pies differ: some have only a bottom layer of cornmeal batter, while others have cornmeal on top also.

PREP: 25 minutes * BAKE: 45 minutes

MAKES 6 main-dish servings

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 pound ground beef chuck

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 cup medium-hot salsa

1 can (15¼ to 16 ounces) whole-kernel corn, drained

4 cups water

1 cup cornmeal 1 teaspoon salt

½ cup shredded Cheddar cheese

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. In nonstick 12-inch skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook until tender and golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in ground beef and cook, breaking up meat with side of spoon, until meat has browned, about 5 minutes. Skim and discard any fat. Stir in chili powder and cumin; cook 2 minutes longer. Remove from heat; stir in salsa and corn.

2. In 2-quart saucepan, heat water to boiling. With wire whisk, gradually whisk in cornmeal and salt. Cook over medium heat, whisking frequently, 5 minutes.

3. Pour half of cornmeal mixture into shallow 2-quart casserole. Spoon beef mixture over cornmeal, spoon remaining cornmeal over beef, and sprinkle Cheddar on top. Bake 45 minutes. Remove casserole from oven and let stand about 15 minutes for easier serving.

 

EACH SERVING: About 334 calories, 21g protein, 33g carbohydrate, 13g total fat (5g saturated), 57mg cholesterol, 1,026mg sodium.

Chili con Carne

Chili con carne gained popularity at an authentic San Antonio chilley [sic] stand at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair. Texans usually prefer cubed or shredded meat in their chili, but midwesterners often choose ground meat, as in our recipe.

PREP: 20 minutes * COOK: 35 minutes

MAKES 6 main-dish servings

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 green peppers, chopped

2 pounds ground beef chuck

3 pickled jalapeño chiles, seeded and finely chopped (2 tablespoons)

3 tablespoons chili powder

2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa

1¼ teaspoons salt

¾ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon dried oregano

¼ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

1 can (14 to 16 ounces) tomatoes, chopped

1. In nonstick 12-inch skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Add green peppers and cook, stirring, until tender-crisp, about 5 minutes longer.

2. Add ground beef and cook, breaking up meat with side of spoon, until meat is no longer pink. Stir in pickled jalapeños, chili powder, cocoa, salt, coriander, oregano, and ground red pepper; cook 1 minute. Add tomatoes with their juice; heat to boiling. Reduce heat; simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 15 to 20 minutes.

 

EACH SERVING: About 326 calories, 33g protein, 10g carbohydrate, 18g total fat (6g saturated), 94mg cholesterol, 758mg sodium.

Mustard and Herb Racks of Lamb

The classic—ask your butcher to loosen the backbone from the ribs for easier carving.

PREP: 10 minutes * ROAST: 1 hour 5 minutes

MAKES 8 main-dish servings

2 lamb rib roasts (racks of lamb), 8 ribs each (2½ pounds each), trimmed

½ teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

2 cups fine fresh bread crumbs (about 4 slices firm white bread)

2 teaspoons dried rosemary, crumbled

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. In large roasting pan (17″ by 11½), place roasts, rib side down; sprinkle with salt. Roast lamb 50 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in 10-inch skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add bread crumbs, rosemary, and pepper; cook, stirring frequently, until crumbs are golden brown, about 4 minutes. Stir in parsley.

3. Spread mustard on tops of roasts. Press breadcrumb mixture onto mustard, patting so it adheres. Roast lamb until meat thermometer inserted in center of lamb (not touching bone) reaches 140°F, 15 to 20 minutes longer. Internal temperature of meat will rise to 145°F (medium) upon standing. Or roast to desired doneness.

4. When roasts are done, transfer to cutting board and let stand 10 minutes to set juices for easier carving. Cut off backbone from ribs. Transfer roasts to warm platter. To serve, cut lamb with sharp knife between bones to separate chops.

 

EACH SERVING: About 311 calories, 27g protein, 7g carbohydrate, 18g total fat (8g saturated), 99mg cholesterol, 436mg sodium.

The Progressive Dinner Party

During the boom years of the 1950s, having a home in suburbia was a must, and so was entertaining one’s neighbors. Progressive dinner parties, a dinner that’s held in three or four homes, with a different course served in each home were all the rage. Each hostess prepared one course (instead of the whole dinner), so it saved both time and money.

Going from home to home or backyard to backyard makes a progressive dinner party fun. So why not throw one? As the party organizer, you get to choose the hostesses, the theme of the dinner, and usually the menu. Select foods that not only go together but that can be made ahead. Here’s the key to a smooth-flowing party: Suggest that the hostess for the subsequent course leave a little early, so she has plenty of time to have the food hot and waiting when everyone arrives at her home.

New England Boiled Dinner

Nineteenth century cooks would often serve this dish with a sprinkling of cider vinegar. Today the most common condiments are homemade horseradish sauce or spicy mustard.

PREP: 15 minutes * COOK: 3 hours 30 minutes

MAKES 8 main-dish servings

1 corned beef brisket (4 to 4½ pounds)

1 medium onion studded with 4 whole cloves

2 quarts water

8 medium all-purpose potatoes (2½ pounds), each peeled and cut in half

8 carrots, each peeled and cut in half

1 small rutabaga (2 pounds), peeled, cut in half, and each half cut into 8 wedges

1 small green cabbage (2 pounds), cut into 8 wedges

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Dijon mustard

bottled white horseradish

1. In 8-quart Dutch oven, place brisket, clove-studded onion, and water; heat to boiling over high heat. With slotted spoon, skim foam from surface. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until brisket is tender, 2 hours 30 minutes to 3 hours.

2. Add potatoes, carrots, and rutabaga to Dutch oven; heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes. With slotted spoon, transfer brisket and vegetables to deep large platter; keep warm.

3. Heat liquid remaining in Dutch oven to boiling over high heat. Add cabbage; heat to boiling. Cover and cook until cabbage is tender, about 5 minutes.

4. Slice brisket very thinly across the grain. Transfer sliced meat to platter with vegetables. Place cabbage wedges on platter, sprinkle parsley on vegetables, and serve mustard and horseradish alongside.

 

EACH SERVING: About 587 calories, 35g protein, 43g carbohydrate, 3 1g total fat (10g saturated), 157mg cholesterol, 1,887mg sodium.

Red Flannel Hash

Red flannel hash has always been a popular way to use up New England boiled dinner leftovers. It is the beets, of course, that contribute the authentic red hue to the dish.

PREP: 15 minutes * COOK: 30 minutes

MAKES 4 main-dish servings

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 large onion (12 ounces), chopped

2 cups chopped cooked lean corned beef

2 cups chopped cooked all-purpose potatoes

1 cup finely chopped cooked beets

¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1. In 10-inch skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in corned beef, potatoes, beets, and pepper until well combined. Cook, pressing hash down firmly with spatula, until bottom of hash has browned, about 15 minutes.

2. With spatula, turn hash over, one small section at a time. Press down with spatula; cook until second side has browned, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Sprinkle with parsley.

 

EACH SERVING: About 337 calories, 23g protein, 21g carbohydrate, 18g total fat (9g saturated), 89mg cholesterol, 947mg sodium.

New England Boiled Dinner

Crown Roast of Pork

From the time the settlers arrived in the New World, pork has been a mainstay in the American diet. History has recorded many menus centered around the pork barrel (sides of pork in salt brine), which helped the colonists survive the long, blustery winters. Eating “high on the hog” is a well-worn expression that denotes comfort and plenty. This spectacular roast pays homage to our love of pork.

PREP: 20 minutes * ROAST: 3 hours 30 minutes

MAKES 14 main-dish servings

1 pork rib crown roast (7 pounds)

2½ teaspoons salt

½ plus teaspoon ground black pepper

6 tablespoons butter or margarine

4 stalks celery, chopped

1 large onion (12 ounces), chopped

1 pound Golden Delicious apples (3 medium), peeled, cored, and chopped

8 cups fresh bread cubes (about 12 slices firm white bread)

½ cup apple juice

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon poultry seasoning

¼ cup Calvados, applejack brandy, or water

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 can (14½ ounces) chicken broth or 1¾ cups Old-Fashioned Chicken Broth (page 49)

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Rub roast with 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Place roast, rib ends down, in large roasting pan (17″ by 11″). Roast 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, in 5-quart Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add celery and onion; cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add apples and cook until tender, 6 to 8 minutes longer. Remove Dutch oven from heat. Stir in bread cubes, apple juice, egg, poultry seasoning, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Toss until well combined.

3. Remove roast from oven and turn, rib ends up. Fill cavity of roast with stuffing. (Place any leftover stuffing into greased 1½-quart casserole. Bake leftover stuffing, uncovered, during last 30 minutes of roasting time.)

4. Return pork to oven; roast until meat thermometer inserted in thickest part of roast (not touching bone) reaches 155°F, about 2 hours 30 minutes. Internal temperature of pork will rise to 160°F upon standing. If stuffing browns too quickly, cover with foil.

5. When roast is done, transfer to warm platter. Let stand 15 minutes to set juices for easier carving.

6. Meanwhile, prepare gravy: Pour pan drippings into 2-cup measuring cup or medium bowl (set roasting pan aside); let stand until fat separates from meat juice. Skim off 3 tablespoons fat from drippings. If necessary, add enough melted butter to fat to equal 3 tablespoons. Pour into 2-quart saucepan. Skim and discard any remaining fat from meat juice. Add Calvados to roasting pan. Heat over medium heat, stirring until browned bits are loosened from bottom of pan. Add to meat juice in cup.

7. Into fat in saucepan, with wire whisk, whisk flour, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining teaspoon pepper until blended; cook, stirring, over medium heat 1 minute. Gradually whisk in meat-juice mixture and broth. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly; boil 1 minute. Serve roast with gravy and stuffing.

 

EACH SERVING: About 406 calories, 32g protein, 19g carbohydrate, 21g total fat (9g saturated), 104mg cholesterol, 716mg sodium.

Pork Crown Roast Tips

Order your roast a few days ahead so the butcher has enough time to prepare it.

A 7-pound pork rib crown roast has 14 to 16 ribs. When preparing the pork roast, your butcher will “french” the ribs (scrape the meat from the ends of the ribs or chops to expose part of the bones). Ask your butcher to grind this meat for you; it can be added to meat loaf or to meatballs.

Request that the decorative paper or aluminum frills be placed in a separate bag, rather than on the tops of the raw rib bones. This way, you can place the clean frills on your finished roast for serving, if you like.

To carve the crown roast, make centered cuts between the ribs so there is an equal portion of meat on both sides of each chop. Spoon some stuffing over the chops after each rib is cut away.

Stuffed Pork Chops

The word stuffing first appeared in print in 1538. It replaced the word forcemeat, which comes from the French word farcir (to stuff). In the Midwest, where pork has always been plentiful and suppers are hearty and generous, stuffing is frequently used to “overstuff” thick pork chops (at least 1 inch thick, please!).

PREP: 20 minutes * COOK: 30 minutes

MAKES 4 main-dish servings

4 teaspoons vegetable oil

1 small onion, chopped

1 Golden Delicious apple, peeled, cored, and chopped pinch dried thyme

2 slices white bread, toasted and cut into ¼-inch pieces

2 tablespoons plus ½ cup canned chicken broth or Old-Fashioned Chicken Broth (page 49)

1 tablespoon spicy brown mustard

4 pork loin chops, 1 inch thick (8 ounces each)

¼ teaspoon salt

1. In 12-inch skillet, heat 2 teaspoons oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add apple and thyme; cook 3 minutes longer. Transfer apple mixture to medium bowl. Wipe skillet clean.

2. Stir bread pieces, 2 tablespoons broth, and mustard into apple mixture. Pat pork dry with paper towels. Holding knife parallel to surface, cut a horizontal pocket in each chop. Stuff apple mixture into pocket of each chop and secure with toothpicks. Sprinkle with salt.

3. In same skillet, heat remaining 2 teaspoons oil over medium heat until hot. Cook chops until they just lose their pink color throughout, about 7 minutes per side.

4. Transfer chops to platter. Keep warm. Increase heat to high. Add remaining ½ cup broth to skillet; heat to boiling. Boil broth until reduced to ¼ cup, 3 to 5 minutes. Pour sauce over chops.

 

EACH SERVING: About 367 calories, 39g protein, 15g carbohydrate, 15g total fat (4g saturated), 102mg cholesterol, 540mg sodium.

Smothered Pork Chops

“Smothering” foods is common in soul-food cookery. It refers to the technique of simmering meat or poultry in a thickened gravy until the meat is falling off the bone. True Southerners insist that a seasoned black-iron skillet is essential. According to Craig Claiborne, the term smothered may have come from the method of weighting down food with a heavy plate topped with at least five pounds to make sure it stays smothered as it cooks.

PREP: 10 minutes * COOK: 20 minutes

MAKES 4 main-dish servings

¾ cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

4 pork rib or loin chops, ¾ inch thick (6 to 8 ounces each)

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

½ cup chopped onion

1 cup canned chicken broth or Old-Fashioned

Chicken Broth (page 49)

¼ cup buttermilk

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. In large bowl, combine flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Coat each pork chop with flour mixture, shaking off excess. Reserve the 2 tablespoons seasoned flour.

2. Meanwhile, in 12-inch skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add pork chops and cook until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer chops to plate; keep warm.

3. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion to skillet; cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle onion with reserved seasoned flour; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add broth, stirring to loosen any browned bits from bottom of skillet; simmer 1 minute. Stir in buttermilk. Return pork chops to pan. Simmer 6 minutes, turning once, until cooked through. Sprinkle with parsley.

 

EACH SERVING: About 319 calories, 28g protein, 16g carbohydrate, 15g total fat (7g saturated), 78mg cholesterol, 813mg sodium.

Ham and Grits with Red-Eye Gravy

As the story goes, Andrew Jackson had a cook who sipped whiskey. He once asked his “tipsy” cook to make some ham and gravy “as red as your eyes.” Others contend that the gravy got its name from the “red eye” that seems to appear in the middle of the reduced gravy. In the Deep South, sliced ham or ham steak is quickly fried in a cast-iron skillet (usually a black one), then the gravy is made right in the skillet from the ham drippings and a little strong coffee for extra flavor. It is served with a hefty portion of grits alongside for a true plantation breakfast.

PREP: 5 minutes * COOK: 30 minutes

MAKES 6 main-dish servings

4½ cups water

1 cup old-fashioned hominy grits

½ teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

6 slices country ham, ¼ inch thick (about 2 ounces each)

½ cup strong brewed coffee

¼ teaspoon sugar

1. In 2-quart saucepan, heat 4 cups water to boiling over medium-high heat; slowly stir in grits and salt. Reduce heat to low; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in butter and keep warm.

2. Meanwhile, in 12-inch skillet, heat oil over medium heat until very hot. Cook ham, 3 slices at a time, turning once, until browned; transfer to platter and keep warm.

3. Add coffee, remaining ½ cup water, and sugar to drippings in skillet. Heat to boiling over medium heat, stirring until browned bits are loosened from bottom of skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Serve gravy over ham and grits.

 

EACH SERVING: About 279 calories, 18g protein, 21g carbohydrate, 13g total fat (5g saturated), 55mg cholesterol, 1,780mg sodium.

Honey-Glazed Ham

In the South, hams are available two ways: country-cured and sugar-cured. Country hams are salt-cured the old-fashioned way. Smithfield hams go through a series of saltings, chillings, and washings, ten days of smoking, and at least six months of aging in a smokehouse. To warrant the coveted Smithfield label, a ham must be prepared in the town of Smithfield, Virginia, although the ham itself may come from the surrounding area. These hams are usually soaked before being cooked to remove some of their salt. Our recipe uses a sugar-cured ham. It comes precooked and ready to heat, glaze, and eat.

PREP: 45 minutes * ROAST: 3 hours

MAKES 24 main-dish servings

HAM & GLAZE

1 fully cooked smoked whole ham (about 14 pounds)

½ cup packed brown sugar

½ cup honey

1 teaspoon ground ginger

MUSTARD SAUCE

1 cup sour cream

¾ cup mayonnaise

1 jar (8 ounces) Dijon mustard with seeds

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. With sharp knife, remove skin and trim fat from ham, leaving ¼-inch-thick layer of fat. Place ham, fat side up, on rack in large roasting pan (17″ by 11½″). Bake ham 2 hours 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, prepare glaze: In 1-quart saucepan, combine brown sugar, honey, and ginger; heat to boiling over medium-high heat. Boil 1 minute. When bubbling subsides, brush ham with some glaze. Bake ham, brushing occasionally with remaining glaze, until meat thermometer inserted into thickest part of ham (not touching bone) reaches 140°F, 30 minutes to 1 hour longer.

3. Meanwhile, prepare mustard sauce: In medium bowl, stir sour cream, mayonnaise, mustard, Worcestershire, and pepper until combined. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Makes about 2½ cups.

4. Serve ham with mustard sauce.

 

EACH SERVING WITHOUT SAUCE: About 325 calories, 36g protein, 10g carbohydrate, 15g total fat (5g saturated), 95mg cholesterol, 2400mg sodium.

EACH TABLESPOON MUSTARD SAUCE: About 50 calories, 1g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 5g total fat (1g saturated), 4mg cholesterol, 170mg sodium.

Best Barbecue Ribs

Best Barbecued Ribs

Americans love their barbecue, but barbecue means different things to different people. In the Lone Star State, almost everywhere you go beef brisket and pork spareribs dripping with thick, spicy sauce are often on the menu. The tomato-based Texas sauce is spiked with vinegar, molasses, tinged with smoke, and laced with plenty of chiles and spice. In the Carolina back country, neighbors slather whole hogs with spicy, vinegary concoctions that don’t contain any tomato at all. They then slowly roast the hogs, pull the meat off with a large fork, and pile it onto freshly baked buns. Around the Great Lakes, barbecue aficionados add fruitwood to the fire and use a sweeter, less spicy sauce. In Kansas City, they season racks of ribs with a spicy dry rub similar to the one in our recipe. No matter which region it comes from, American barbecue can be counted on to be delicious and satisfying.

PREP: 40 minutes plus standing

GRILL: 1 hour 10 minutes

MAKES 8 main-dish servings

BARBECUE SAUCE

2 cups ketchup

1 cup apple cider or juice

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons light (mild) molasses

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons yellow mustard

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

RIBS

2 tablespoons paprika

1 tablespoon brown sugar

2 teaspoons chili powder

2 teaspoons salt

1½ teaspoons ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

4 racks pork baby back ribs (1 pound each)*

1. Prepare barbecue sauce: In 4-quart saucepan, combine ketchup, cider, Worcestershire, molasses, vinegar, brown sugar, mustard, black pepper, and red pepper. Heat to boiling; reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens slightly, about 30 minutes.

2. Prepare ribs: In small bowl, combine paprika, brown sugar, chili powder, salt, black pepper, cumin, and ground red pepper. Pat ribs dry with paper towels. Sprinkle on both sides with spice mixture. Let stand 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, prepare grill.

4. Place 28″ by 12″ sheet of heavy-duty foil on surface. Place 1 rack of ribs in center of foil. Place 2 ice cubes under ribs. Bring long sides of foil up and fold several times to seal well. Fold in ends to seal tightly. Repeat with three more sheets of foil, 6 ice cubes, and remaining 3 racks of ribs.

5. Place foil packets on grill rack over medium heat. Cover and cook ribs over medium heat 1 hour, carefully turning packets over once with tongs. With kitchen scissors, cut an X in top of each foil packet to release steam; carefully peel back foil. Remove ribs and place directly on grill. Brush ribs with some sauce; cook, brushing and turning frequently, 10 minutes longer. Serve with remaining sauce on the side.

 

EACH SERVING: About 532 calories, 28g protein, 32g carbohydrate, 33g total fat (12g saturated), 129mg cholesterol, 1,507mg sodium.

* If available, use St. Louis-cut baby back ribs because they are meatier.