Good Housekeeping Great Home Cooking: 300 Traditional Recipes

Not knowing what they would find in their new homeland, the Pilgrims brought vegetable seeds for cabbage, string beans (called French beans), peas, onion, and parsnip to the New World. In time, the Virginia colonists planted asparagus, beets, broccoli, cauliflower, cucumbers, and various greens. To minimize their dependency on English imports, the Jamestown settlers learned how to cultivate corn, white and sweet potatoes, winter squash (including pumpkin), tomatoes, and wild greens, such as ramps and fiddlehead ferns.

The colonists learned how to store vegetables in root cellars, pickle and salt-preserve them, and turn cabbage into sauerkraut. Fruit was often turned into preserves, and by the early nineteenth century, fresh vegetables were canned. The popularity of domestic (home) gardening soared by the nineteenth century. In her 1824 regional cookbook, The Virginia Housewife, Mary Randolph devoted an entire section to produce. By the end of the century, commercial canneries made it easy to enjoy vegetables effortlessly year-round.

In the 1920s, Clarence Birdseye, a young scientist on assignment in Labrador with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, discovered that his daily catch froze quickly in the Arctic temperatures yet tasted very fresh when thawed. He seized upon this concept and launched the frozen-food industry in 1924.

By the 1960s, the way Americans viewed food began to change. We came to appreciate the Chinese technique of stir-frying, which produced tender-crisp vegetables that were nutritious as well as delicious. Julia Child also influenced our appreciation for vegetables cooked in the French manner: until tender instead of soft and tasteless. In 1971, Alice Waters opened Chez Panisse, where the menu was based on fresh, local ingredients very simply prepared. Farmers’ markets sprung up across the country by the mid-1970s as more and more consumers demanded fresh, regional produce of uncompromising quality.

Over the last several hundred years we have come full circle: like the colonists, we have gained an appreciation for high-quality fresh vegetables that can be appreciated on a daily basis.

To Cook Asparagus

To Steam: In asparagus steamer or 3-quart saucepan fitted with rack, heat ½ inch water to boiling over medium-high heat; add 1 pound asparagus, trimmed. Cover and steam until tender-crisp, 8 to 10 minutes (depending on thickness of asparagus).

To Boil: In 12-inch skillet, heat 1 inch water to boiling over high heat. Add 1 pound asparagus, trimmed, and ½ teaspoon salt; heat to boiling. Reduce heat to medium-high; cook, uncovered, until tender-crisp, 5 to 10 minutes (depending on thickness of asparagus). Drain.

Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce

Fannie Farmer offers four simple ways to prepare asparagus in her 1896 cookbook: on toast, in white sauce, with hollandaise sauce, and in fried bread shells with white sauce spooned over. Asparagus with hollandaise sauce remains a favorite way to enjoy this vegetable. For the best flavor, use good-quality butter—never margarine. For an easy variation, steam or boil asparagus and serve it with melted butter and lemon wedges.

1. Boil or steam asparagus as directed in box (opposite). Sprinkle with salt; transfer to serving dish. Keep warm.

EACH SERVING WITHOUT SAUCE: About 20 calories, 3g protein, 3g carbohydrate, 0g total fat (0g saturated), 0mg cholesterol, 145mg sodium.

Hollandaise Sauce

1. In heavy nonreactive 1-quart saucepan, with wire whisk, whisk egg yolks, water, and lemon juice until well blended. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with wooden spoon or heat-safe rubber spatula, until egg-yolk mixture just begins to bubble at edge, 6 to 8 minutes.

2. Reduce heat to low. With wire whisk, whisk in butter one piece at a time, until each addition is incorporated and sauce has thickened. Remove from heat and stir in salt. Strain through sieve, if you like.

EACH TABLESPOON: About 62 calories, 1g protein, 0g carbohydrate, 7g total fat (4g saturated), 55mg cholesterol, 96mg sodium.

Brussels Sprouts with Bacon

Brussels sprouts are a member of the cabbage family. They grow on a stalk, completely covering it with their round heads. Botanical texts date Brussels sprouts back to the sixteenth century. In 1812, Thomas Jefferson planted some and made a notation about it in his garden book. Mrs. Sarah Rorer in Mrs. Rorer’s Philadelphia Cook Book, advises readers to add ¼ teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) to the cooking water “to render [sprouts] soft.”

3 containers (10 ounces each) Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut lengthwise in half

1. In 4-quart saucepan, heat 2 quarts water to boiling over high heat. Add Brussels sprouts; heat to boiling. Cook until tender-crisp, about 5 minutes; drain.

2. In 12-inch skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until browned. With slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain; crumble.

3. Discard all but 1 tablespoon bacon drippings from skillet. Add oil and heat over medium-high heat. Add Brussels sprouts, garlic, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until Brussels sprouts are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the bacon.

EACH SERVING: About 96 calories, 5g protein, 8g carbohydrate, 6g total fat (1g saturated), 4mg cholesterol, 202mg sodium.

Harvard Beets

The origin of the first recipe for Harvard beets is debatable. One tale links it to a seventeenth-century English tavern named Harwood, where this beet dish was on the menu. A Russian émigré who was a customer moved to America and opened a restaurant in Boston in 1846 that he named Harwood. Just as in the English tavern, he served Harwood beets, but due to his Russian accent it sounded like “Harvard.” Another tale relates the name to Harvard’s crimson team color, which is similar to the bright red of beets.

3 cups cooked, sliced beets or 2 cans (16 ounces each) sliced beets, drained

In 1-quart saucepan, combine sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Add vinegar in slow, steady stream, stirring until well blended. Add butter and onion. Cook, stirring constantly over medium heat, until sauce has thickened and boils. Reduce heat and simmer 1 minute. Add beets and cook, stirring occasionally, just until heated through.

EACH SERVING: About 82 calories, 1g protein, 16g carbohydrate, 2g total fat (1g saturated), 5mg cholesterol, 255mg sodium.

Yale Beets

Prepare as directed but substitute ½ cup orange juice for vinegar and substitute 1 teaspoon freshly grated orange peel for onion.

Pennsylvania-Dutch Hot Slaw

Europeans were eating cabbage as far back as the Middle Ages. The New England colonists stayed close to their British roots and always boiled it. The Amish and Mennonites who settled in the Pennsylvania countryside loved cabbage. They prepared sauerkraut as well as creamy, hot wilted slaw from recipes brought from Germany. It is interesting to note that Pennsylvania-Dutch hot slaw closely resembles the Alsatian dish émincé de choux verts aux lardons chauds (hot cabbage and bacon salad). It features a warm bacon dressing, which slightly wilts the shredded cabbage while leaving just a bit of pleasant crunch.

1. In 5-quart Dutch oven, cook bacon over medium heat until browned. With slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain.

2. To drippings in pot, add cabbage and onion. Cook, stirring frequently, until cabbage is tender-crisp, about 5 minutes. Stir in vinegar, sugar, celery seeds, salt, and bacon. Cook 1 minute longer.

EACH SERVING: About 178 calories, 3g protein, 20g carbohydrate, 10g total fat (4g saturated), 11mg cholesterol, 277mg sodium.

Cajun Maquechou

The ingredients in this Cajun dish are rather basic: corn, onions, bell pepper, and cream. Some believe the dish was brought to Louisiana by the Spaniards and that its name originates from the Spanish word machica, a dish of toasted cornmeal that’s sweetened with sugar and spices. Others believe the word comes from maigrichou, meaning “thin child,” for the dish is like a (thin) soup.

5 cups corn kernels cut from cobs (about 8 ears) or 3 packages (10 ounces each) frozen whole-kernel corn

1. In nonstick 12-inch skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until crisp. With slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain.

2. To drippings in skillet, add onion and red pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables are lightly browned, about 12 minutes.

3. Stir in corn, tomatoes, cream, salt, sugar, and ground red pepper; heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until corn is tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in bacon and sprinkle with parsley, if using.

EACH SERVING: About 202 calories, 5g protein, 25g carbohydrate, 11g total fat (4g saturated), 18mg cholesterol, 398mg sodium.

Corn Oysters

Scrape sweet corn from the cob, or grate it. Take one coffee cup of corn and two eggs. Make a batter of a little milk and flour, seasoning with salt. Make the batter sufficiently thick to take out with a spoon, and fry in butter. This recipe is enough for five persons.

—Good Housekeeping Everyday Cook Book, 1903

Corn Pudding

Corn pudding dates back to the plantations in the Deep South, where corn was freshly picked from the fields. The secret to the creamiest corn pudding is the way the corn is cut off the cob. According to Evan Jones in American Food: “In the smoothest, most luscious corn pudding I know, much depends on the amount of liquid in the corn pulp. Some Kentuckians say this delicacy must be made with young field corn, and served as a vegetable. Mixed with eggs, milk or cream, butter, salt, pepper, and a hint of sugar. ‘When it doesn’t shake’, say some Southern cooks, ‘it is ready.’”

2 cups corn kernels cut from cobs (3 to 4 ears) 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2. In 2-quart saucepan, heat 1½ cups water and ½ teaspoon salt to boiling over high heat. Add corn kernels and heat to boiling; boil 2 minutes. Drain; pat corn dry with paper towels.

3. In medium bowl, with wire whisk, combine flour, sugar, remaining ¾ teaspoon salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in milk, cream, butter, and eggs until smooth. Stir in corn. Pour mixture into prepared baking dish.

4. Place baking dish in medium roasting pan (14″ by 10″); place pan on oven rack. Pour enough boiling water into roasting pan to come halfway up sides of baking dish. Bake until top is lightly browned and knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 45 minutes.

EACH SERVING: About 170 calories, 6g protein, 15g carbohydrate, 10g total fat (5g saturated), 105mg cholesterol, 451mg sodium.

Corn Custard with Basil

Prepare recipe as above, but substitute basil-flavored milk for the plain milk in Step 3. To prepare basil-flavored milk, in 1-quart saucepan, heat 1¾ cups milk and 1 cup loosely packed fresh basil sprigs over medium-high heat until bubbles form around edge. Remove from heat; cover and let steep about 10 minutes. Discard basil.

Liberty and Victory Gardens

With the declaration of World War I in 1917, President Woodrow Wilson named Herbert Hoover as head of the U.S. Food Administration. The task at hand was enormous—the United States had to feed not only the armed forces and its citizens at home, but also its allies. Public relations campaigns announced that “Food Will Win the War.” Families were urged to plant vegetables in their backyards, and these plots soon became known as liberty gardens.

The success of the liberty garden campaign prompted the government once again to encourage citizens to plant gardens during World War II wherever there was a flower bed, a plowable backyard, or some available land. The newly named victory gardens popped up in some rather unlikely spots, such as the Portland Zoo and Chicago’s Arlington Racetrack. About 20 million gardens were planted, which produced about 1 million tons of vegetables that were worth at least $85 million. Not surprisingly, home canning soared during this time: over three-quarters of American families preserved over 165 jars a year. Not only were they able to grow much-needed food, but Americans were also awakened to the glories of enjoying fresh produce, which has been appreciated ever since.

Smothered Greens

The tradition of eating “a mess of greens” dates back to the Virginia colonists, who planted mustard, collard, and other greens and cooked them up in a large pot along with a ham hock for flavor. The potlikker (the broth left in the pot), which was rich in vitamins, was enjoyed by the field hands working the plantations.

1. Remove stems and tough ribs from greens; rinse well with cool running water. Cut into ½-inch pieces.

2. In 8-quart saucepot, combine ham hocks, onion, water, and salt; heat to boiling over high heat. Add greens to pot in batches, stirring to wilt. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until very tender, about 1 hour. Discard ham hocks. Serve with hot pepper sauce.

EACH SERVING: About 82 calories, 5g protein, 13g carbohydrate, 3g total fat (1g saturated), 2mg cholesterol, 560mg sodium.

Creamed Spinach

Spinach was brought here by the Spanish settlers. In our recipe the spinach is creamed by folding it into a luscious white sauce enriched with cream cheese and sour cream.

1. In 4-quart saucepan, melt butter over medium-low heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute. With wire whisk, gradually whisk in milk; heat to boiling, whisking constantly. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until sauce has thickened and boils, about 2 minutes. Stir in salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

2. Remove from heat; stir in cream cheese until smooth. Stir in spinach, parsley, and sour cream; heat through (do not boil).

EACH SERVING: About 180 calories, 7g protein, 14g carbohydrate, 12g total fat (7g saturated), 33mg cholesterol, 500mg sodium.

Minted Sugar Snaps

Green peas were one of the first vegetables that the Pilgrims planted in their gardens. American cookbook author Amelia Simmons advised: “All Peas should be picked carefully from the vines as soon as dew is off, shelled and cleaned without water, and boiled immediately; they are thus the richest flavored.” Our recipe uses tender sugar snap peas, which don’t require shelling.

In nonstick 12-inch skillet, heat butter, salt, and pepper over medium heat until butter has melted. Add snap peas and cook, stirring, until tender-crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Add garlic, mint, and lemon and lime peels; toss well.

EACH SERVING: About 77 calories, 3g protein, 9g carbohydrate, 3g total fat (2g saturated), 8mg cholesterol, 175mg sodium.

Butter Beans with Bacon

Native Americans combined lima beans with corn, creating the Narrangansett dish misickquatash (succotash, also known as sukquttahash and msakwitash), a recipe they shared with the colonists. Nowadays, lima beans (known in the South as butter beans) are skillet-fried in bacon drippings, then simmered until nice and tender.

1. In 10-inch skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until browned. With slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain; crumble. Discard all but 1 tablespoon bacon drippings from skillet.

2. To drippings in skillet, add frozen lima beans, celery, salt, and pepper. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes.

3. Add water to skillet; heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Spoon bean mixture into serving bowl; sprinkle with crumbled bacon.

EACH SERVING: About 156 calories, 7g protein, 19g carbohydrate, 6g total fat (2g saturated), 8mg cholesterol, 314mg sodium.

Creamed Onions and Peas

In 1896, Fannie Farmer offered Onions in Cream: “Prepare and cook as Boiled Onions… cover with Cream or Thin White Sauce.” Our recipe includes a double amount of green peas. If you prefer, use half the amount.

1. In 12-inch skillet, heat 1 inch water to boiling over high heat. Add onions; heat to boiling. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain.

2. When cool enough to handle, peel onions, leaving a bit of root end attached to help onions hold their shape.

3. Meanwhile, in 2-quart saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Stir in flour, salt, thyme, nutmeg, and pepper until blended; cook, stirring constantly, 1 minute. With wire whisk, gradually stir in milk; cook, stirring, until sauce has thickened slightly and boils.

4. Return onions to skillet. Add sauce and peas; cover and cook, stirring often, over medium-high heat until sauce boils and peas are heated through.

EACH SERVING: About 116 calories, 6g protein, 15g carbohydrate, 4g total fat (2g saturated), 12mg cholesterol, 225mg sodium.

Green Bean Casserole with Frizzled Onions

In the mid-twentieth century, the Campbell Soup Company created a simple green-bean bake made with a can of condensed cream of mushroom soup, green beans (either frozen or canned), some milk, canned french fried onions, a little soy sauce, and black pepper. It was then baked and topped with more onions. Our delicious homemade version uses freshly fried onions, fresh green beans, and sautéed mushrooms.

1. In large bowl, separate onion slices into rings. Add 4 tablespoons flour to onions; toss to coat, shaking off excess.

2. In 10-inch skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until hot. Add onions, leaving excess flour in bowl. Cook onions, stirring frequently, until onions are browned, 3 to 5 minutes. With slotted spoon, transfer onions to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with teaspoon salt. Discard oil from the skillet.

3. In same skillet, heat 1 inch water to boiling over high heat. Add beans; heat to boiling. Cook beans, uncovered, until tender-crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain. Rinse with cold running water to stop cooking; drain well and pat dry with paper towels.

5. In same skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add mushrooms, garlic, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until liquid has evaporated and mushrooms begin to brown, about 5 minutes.

6. In small bowl, with wire whisk, blend remaining 2 tablespoons flour and milk until smooth. Stir into mushroom mixture; heat to boiling. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring, 5 minutes. Stir in green beans. Turn mixture into prepared casserole. Cover loosely with foil. Bake until bubbling, about 20 minutes. Top with onions; bake until onions are heated through, about 1 minute.

EACH SERVING: About 289 calories, 5g protein, 17g carbohydrate, 24g total fat (6g saturated), 16mg cholesterol, 212mg sodium.

Narraganset Succotash

The oldest succotash recipe (on record) calls for boiling two fowls and includes four pounds of brisket, a turnip, five or six sliced potatoes, two quarts of dried white beans, and four quarts of cooked dried corn. Today, recipes use bacon drippings and toss in lima beans instead of the traditional kidney beans.

1. In 12-inch skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until browned. With slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain; crumble.

2. Discard all but 2 tablespoons drippings from skillet. Add celery and onion; cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender and golden, about 15 minutes. Stir in corn, frozen lima beans, broth, salt, and pepper; heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat; cover and simmer, until heated through, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Stir in parsley and sprinkle with bacon.

EACH SERVING: About 155 calories, 7g protein, 24g carbohydrate, 5g total fat (2g saturated), 5mg cholesterol, 490mg sodium.

French-Fried Onion Rings

It wasn’t until the 1906 edition of The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book that a recipe for french-fried onions appeared: “Peel onions, cut in one-fourth-inch slices, and separate into rings. Dip in milk, drain, and dip in flour. Fry in deep fat, drain on brown paper, and sprinkle with salt.” The recipe is still a favorite today.

1. Separate onion slices into rings. In 4-quart saucepan, heat 2 inches oil over medium heat until temperature reaches 370°F on a deep-fat thermometer.

2. Pour milk into large bowl. In ziptight plastic bag, mix flour and salt. Dip one-fourth of onion rings in milk. With tongs, transfer to flour mixture; shake to coat.

3. Carefully drop coated onion rings into hot oil; fry until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. With slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Repeat dipping, coating, and frying with remaining onion rings. Serve hot.

EACH SERVING: About 487 calories, 4g protein, 26g carbohydrate, 42g total fat (5g saturated), 1mg cholesterol, 298mg sodium.

Home Fries

By the 1930s, mobile lunch wagons across America had turned into stationary eateries, which were originally called “dining cars,” then later on “diners.” Home fries, also known as “house fries” or “cottage fries” were then—and still are—a popular menu item. They begin with boiled potatoes that are chopped or sliced, often with onion, then fried in butter on the back of the grill. If you don’t have a grill, a skillet works just fine.

1. In 4-quart saucepan, combine potatoes and enough water to cover; heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain well.

2. Leave potato skins on, if you like. When cool enough to handle, cut potatoes into ¼-inch-thick slices.

3. In 12-inch skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add potatoes and onion; cook until underside is golden, about 5 minutes. With wide spatula, turn potato mixture. Cook over medium heat, turning several times, until evenly browned. Sprinkle with the salt.

EACH SERVING: About 291 calories, 4g protein, 44g carbohydrate, 12g total fat (7g saturated), 31mg cholesterol, 269mg sodium.

Chicago Mash with Onion and Bacon

In Chicago, down-home diners are a way of life. Chicagoans like their mashed potatoes with plenty of browned onion bits and bacon stirred in. Our recipe calls for making the potatoes with warm milk instead of cold. This keeps the potatoes hot and makes them fluffier because more air can be whipped into hot potatoes.

3 pounds all-purpose potatoes (about 9 medium), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1. In 10-inch skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until browned. With slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain; crumble.

2. To drippings in skillet, add onion; cook, stirring occasionally, over medium heat until onion is tender, about 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in 3-quart saucepan, combine potatoes, bay leaf, and enough water to cover; heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Drain.

4. Return potatoes to saucepan. Discard bay leaf. Mash potatoes with salt and pepper. Gradually add milk; mash until smooth and well blended. Stir in onion and bacon.

EACH SERVING: About 200 calories, 5g protein, 28g carbohydrate, 8g total fat (3g saturated), 12mg cholesterol, 370mg sodium.

Potato Boats

Early American cookbooks often featured potatoes “baked in the half-shell.” Today they’re called by various names: twice-baked potatoes, stuffed baked potatoes, potato boats, and even ‘tater boats.

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Prick potatoes with fork. Bake until tender, about 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, in medium skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add green onions and cook, stirring, until wilted, about 2 minutes. Set aside.

3. While potatoes are hot, using a pot holder, cut a thin lengthwise slice, about ½ inch thick, from each potato. With spoon, scoop out flesh into skillet; reserve shells. Scoop out flesh from tops into skillet. Mash potatoes, sour cream, salt, and pepper until smooth and well blended. Stir in ½ cup Cheddar. Spoon mixture into reserved shells, mounding slightly. Place on cookie sheet; sprinkle with remaining ½ cup Cheddar and paprika.

EACH SERVING: About 459 calories, 14g protein, 49g carbohydrate, 24g total fat (15g saturated), 66mg cholesterol, 440mg sodium.

Steak Fries

Steak fries became popular in the mid-twentieth century in diners and roadside cafés. The potatoes were thick cut with their skins left on. Their name derives from the fact that they are usually piled high next to one’s steak as the ideal accompaniment.

1. Cut each potato lengthwise into quarters, then cut each quarter into 4 long wedges. In large bowl, combine potatoes with enough cold water to cover. Refrigerate potatoes at least 2 hours or up to 8 hours.

2. Drain potatoes; transfer to paper towel-lined jelly-roll pan. Pat dry with paper towels.

3. In 5-quart Dutch oven or deep fryer, heat oil over medium heat until temperature reaches 325°F on deep-fat thermometer. Place one-fourth of potatoes in frying basket or fine-mesh sieve. Cook, turning occasionally, until potatoes are tender and edges are slightly crisp and pale golden, about

4. Preheat oven to 300°F. Heat oil over medium heat until temperature reaches 375°F. Retry one-fourth of potatoes until crisp and golden, 1½ to 2 minutes. Transfer steak fries to paper towel-lined cookie sheet. Keep warm in oven while retrying remaining potatoes. Sprinkle with salt. Serve hot.

EACH SERVING: About 284 calories, 5g protein, 41g carbohydrate, 12g total fat (2g saturated), 0mg cholesterol, 500mg sodium.

Scalloped Potatoes

At the turn of the twentieth century, scalloped potatoes began appearing at church suppers and holiday gatherings throughout America. Traditionally, scalloped potatoes were prepared with thinly sliced potatoes that were covered with white sauce and baked until the potatoes were meltingly tender and the top richly browned, as in our recipe. Early cookbooks often suggested lightly sprinkling bread crumbs on top of the dish to give it a nice crisp top.

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease 9-inch square baking dish or shallow 2-quart casserole.

2. In heavy 2-quart saucepan, melt butter over low heat. Add onion and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute. With wire whisk, gradually whisk in milk. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until mixture has thickened and boils. Reduce heat; simmer, stirring frequently, 1 minute. Stir in salt and pepper; remove from heat.

3. Arrange half of potatoes in single layer in prepared dish; pour half of sauce on top. Repeat layers. Cover and bake 1 hour. Remove cover; bake until potatoes are tender and top is golden, about 30 minutes longer.

EACH SERVING: About 199 calories, 5g protein, 28g carbohydrate, 8g total fat (5g saturated), 24mg cholesterol, 484mg sodium.

Southern Sweet Potatoes

Boil six medium-sized sweet potatoes until nearly done. Peel and slice the long way into pieces about half an inch thick. Fill a baking dish with layers of the slices thickly covered with dark brown sugar and bits of butter. Pour over a half cup of boiling water. Cook in a hot oven for twenty or thirty minutes. This will fill a quart and a half baking dish.

—Good Housekeeping Everyday Cook Book, 1903

Bubbe’s Potato Latkes

The tradition of serving potato pancakes at Chanukah began with the Ashkenazi Jews of Northern and Eastern European communities. The pancakes commemorate the Maccabees’ defeat of the Syrian army and the reclaiming of the Temple of Jerusalem in 165 BC. The Maccabees found only enough oil in the temple to light their menorah for one night, but miraculously it burned for eight. The oil used to fry these traditional pancakes symbolizes this miracle.

2. Finely shred potatoes and onion into colander. With hands, squeeze to remove as much liquid as possible. Place potato mixture in medium bowl; stir in egg, flour, parsley, lemon juice, baking powder, salt, and pepper until well mixed.

3. Preheat oven to 250°F. In 12-inch skillet, heat 3 tablespoons vegetable oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Drop potato mixture by scant ¼ cups into hot oil to make 5 latkes. With back of large spoon, flatten each latke into 3-inch round. Cook until underside is golden, 4 to 5 minutes. With slotted spatula, turn latkes and cook until second side is golden brown and crisp, 4 to 5 minutes longer. With spatula, transfer latkes to paper towel-lined cookie sheet to drain; keep warm in oven.

4. Repeat with remaining potato mixture, stirring potato mixture before frying each batch and using 3 tablespoons more oil for each new batch. Serve hot with Homemade Applesauce.

EACH SERVING WITHOUT APPLESAUCE: About 250 calories, 6g protein, 38g carbohydrate, 9g total fat (1g saturated), 43mg cholesterol, 270mg sodium.

Homemade Applesauce

Peel and core 4 large Golden Delicious apples (2 pounds); cut each into eighths. In 3-quart saucepan, combine apples, ½ cup apple cider or juice, ¼ cup sugar, and 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice. Heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer until apples are very tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from heat; with potato masher, coarsely mash apples. Makes 3 cups.

EACH SERVING: About 69 calories, 0g protein, 18g carbohydrate, 0g total fat (0g saturated), 0mg cholesterol, 0mg sodium.

Dixie Squash Pudding

The tender, sweet yellow squash of summer was one of the new vegetables the colonists learned how to cook in America. The squash was picked fresh and thinly sliced. It was then either boiled and mashed with cream and butter, dipped in batter and fried, or mashed and turned into fritters. In the South, squash pudding is a favorite dish that has changed over time. The squash can be thinly sliced, diced, or completely mashed. In some recipes, the pudding is seasoned with salt and pepper and topped with buttered cracker crumbs, while other recipes contain sautéed onion, crisp bacon, jalapeños, cream cheese, Cheddar, or Monterey Jack.

2. In 12-inch nonstick skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion and cook until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add squash and salt; cook, stirring, until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

3. Stir cream cheese into squash mixture until melted. Stir in milk, ½ cup Monterey Jack cheese, and ¼ cup crushed crackers. Turn into prepared baking dish. Combine remaining cheese and crushed crackers; sprinkle over top. Bake until hot and top is golden brown, about 20 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes for easier serving.

EACH SERVING: About 192 calories, 7g protein, 10g carbohydrate, 14g total fat (8g saturated), 39mg cholesterol, 371mg sodium.

Baked Acorn Squash

Native Americans introduced the colonists to askutasquash (squash). Translated literally it means “eaten raw,” and that’s how it was likely eaten at first. The colonists were pleased to find that the squashes in America were superior to those back home. Acorn squash is still a favorite, especially baked and glazed with brown sugar and butter.

2. Place squash, cut side down, in baking dish; bake 30 minutes. Turn cut side up. Place one-fourth of butter and brown sugar in each cavity. Bake until squash is tender and butter and brown sugar have melted, about 5 minutes longer.

EACH SERVING: About 181 calories, 1g protein, 31g carbohydrate, 7g total fat (4g saturated), 16mg cholesterol, 69mg sodium.

Roasted Winter Vegetables

Settlers would bring in the fall harvest and store many of the vegetables in root cellars in anticipation of the long winter ahead. Most nineteenth-century cookbooks feature recipes for winter squash and other autumn vegetables. They are often boiled in salted water, then served hot with melted butter poured over. Today winter vegetables are often roasted in the oven with a little oil and seasoning until richly caramelized and flavorful.

1. Preheat oven to 475°F. In large bowl, combine onions, carrots, parsnips, red peppers, and garlic cloves. Add oil, salt, and pepper; toss until evenly coated.

2. Divide vegetable mixture between two jelly-roll pans or large shallow roasting pans. Place pans on two oven racks; roast until vegetable are tender and golden, about 45 minutes, rotating pans between upper and lower racks halfway through cooking time and tossing once.

EACH SERVING: About 65 calories, 1g protein, 12g carbohydrate, 2g total fat (0g saturated), 0mg cholesterol, 210mg sodium.

Vegetable Stir-Fry

In the mid-nineteenth century, many Chinese immigrants prepared meals and performed household chores for well-to-do families. Although they were not allowed to cook their native dishes, they did apply their Asian cooking techniques to many foods. Stir-frying vegetables in a wok allows them to keep their color, texture, and flavor and is a popular technique today.

In nonstick 12-inch skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until hot. Add garlic and ginger; cook, stirring frequently (stir-frying), 1 minute. Add broccoli; stir-fry 1 minute. Increase heat to high; add water and cook 3 minutes. Add carrots and yellow pepper; stir-fry until liquid has evaporated, about 6 minutes. Add mushrooms, green onions, hoisin sauce, and salt; stir-fry until vegetables are tender and almost all liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes longer.

EACH SERVING: About 109 calories, 4g protein, 15g carbohydrate, 4g total fat (1g saturated), 0mg cholesterol, 355mg sodium.

The Shaker Larder

In the nineteenth century, Shaker communities represented simple, unpretentious farm living at its best. The Shakers were a celibate sect who lived in isolated communities in New England and the Midwest. They worked hard and ate well, although they never prepared food on Sunday, as that was their day to rest. Their cooking was simple but very tasty.

Unlike other farming families, the Shakers enjoyed a wide variety of foods, many exported from faraway places and brought home by their trustees, who traveled widely. The Shakers loved growing, cooking, and preserving foods and were very fond of herbs. Excellent cooks and bakers, they took advantage of their resources to give everyday dishes an epicurean touch, such as apple pie with rosewater and spinach flavored with rosemary. Shaker larders were known to be superior to others of their day. The women canned their own fruits and vegetables and made jams, jellies, relishes, and preserves, always managing to capture a freshness and high quality second to none.

The noonday meal was always a wholesome feast: meat that was often fried and smothered with gravy, vegetables fresh from the garden or home canned, homemade pies (apple was a favorite), brown bread, spoon cakes, and cream cheese.

Eggplant Parmigiana

Thomas Jefferson often gets the credit for introducing America to the eggplant. It took a while for folks to become familiar with how to peel it, slice it, fry it, scallop it, stuff it, and bake it. Although Fannie Farmer’s 1923 cookbook offers seven recipes for eggplant, eggplant Parmesan is not one of them. Our authentic version undoubtedly gained its fame in the restaurants and groceries in Italian communities known as Little Italies that popped up in cities following World War II.

1. In 10-inch skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat until hot. Add onion and garlic; cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, sugar, Oregano, basil, and salt. Reduce heat; cover and simmer 30 minutes.

2. Place bread crumbs on waxed paper. In small bowl, with fork, beat eggs and water. Dip eggplant slices, one at a time, in egg mixture, then in bread crumbs; repeat to coat each slice twice.

4. In 12-inch skillet, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add eggplant, a few slices at a time, and cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side, using slotted spatula to transfer slices to platter as they are browned, adding more oil if necessary.

5. Layer half of eggplant slices in prepared baking dish and cover with half of tomato mixture. Sprinkle with half of Parmesan and top with half of mozzarella. Repeat layers. Cover baking dish with foil; bake 15 minutes. Remove foil; bake until bubbling, about 10 minutes.

EACH SERVING: About 426 calories, 19g protein, 38g carbohydrate, 24g total fat (9g saturated), 107mg cholesterol, 917mg sodium.

Fried Green Tomatoes

New Englanders liked their green tomatoes baked into a pie with a little sprinkling of sugar and spice and a splash of vinegar. Down South, green tomatoes were usually fried up with a crunchy cornmeal coating. Often served at bountiful plantation breakfasts, fried green tomatoes became a tradition that continues today.

1. In 12-inch skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until browned. With slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain; crumble. Set aside skillet with drippings.

2. In pie plate, beat egg white and salt. On waxed paper, combine cornmeal and pepper. Dip tomatoes in egg mixture to coat both sides, then dip into cornmeal mixture, pressing so mixture adheres. Place on waxed paper.

3. Heat bacon drippings in skillet over medium-high heat. Cook tomatoes, in batches, until golden brown, about 1½ minutes per side, transferring them to paper towels to drain.

EACH SERVING: About 189 calories, 4g protein, 13g carbohydrate, 13g total fat (5g saturated), 15mg cholesterol, 270mg sodium.

Chapter 9

Eat Your Vegetables!