Kings County Pork Pie Hat

DESIGNED BY ANTONIO LIMUACO, THE YARN MONKEY

This unique cap is inspired by the pork pie hat that was popular during the Jazz Age and lately has come back into style with full force. This modernized crochet version, worked in Tunisian crochet, is soft and flexible enough to be thrown in a tote bag, yet still structured enough to keep its shape during even the wildest jam session.

Size

Men’s Small 21½"–21¾" (54.5–55 cm), Medium 22"–22½" (56–57 cm), Large 23"–23¾" (58.5–60.5 cm).

Yarn

DK weight (#3 Light).

Shown here: Rowan Wool Cotton (50% merino /50% cotton; 123 yd [113 m]/50 g): #965 Mocha, 3 balls.

Hook

Size E (3.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

Size G (4.0 mm) and Size C (2.75 mm).

Notions

Two coat buttons ⅝" (15 mm) diameter with holes large enough to sew with a small yarn needle; split ring or locking stitch marker; tapestry needle.

Gauge

25 sts and 20 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in linked stitch pattern using size E (3.5 mm) hook.

Take time to check gauge.

STITCH GUIDE

Lsc (Linked single crochet)

Insert hook through the vertical strand closest to the hook and through next st. Draw yarn through both (2 loops on the hook).

Ldc (Linked double crochet)

Insert hook through vertical strand closest to the hook and the top ch to its left. Draw yarn through both keeping new loop on the hook. Insert hook in next st and draw loop (3 loops on the hook). [Draw yarn through 2 loops] twice.

Ltc (Linked treble crochet)

*Insert hook through vertical strand closest to the hook and the top ch to its left. Draw yarn through both, keeping new loop on the hook; repeat from * once more in the next set. Insert hook in next st and draw loop (4 loops on the hook). [Draw yarn through 2 loops] 3 times.

Inc Lsc to Ldc

Insert hook through the vertical strand closest to the hook and draw a loop. Insert hook in next st and draw loop (3 loops on the hook). [Draw yarn through 2 loops] twice.

Inc Ldc to Ltc

Insert hook through the vertical strand closest to the hook and draw a loop. Then insert hook through the same strand and the top ch to its left and draw another loop through both. Insert hook in next st and draw loop (4 loops on the hook). [Draw yarn through 2 loops] 3 times.

Dec Ldc to Lsc

Insert hook through the vertical strand closest to the hook and through next st. Draw yarn through both keeping new loop on the hook (2 loops on the hook). Draw yarn through 2 loops.

Dec Ltc to Ldc

Insert hook through the 2 vertical strands. Draw yarn through both keeping new loop on the hook. Insert hook in next st and draw loop (3 loops on the hook). [Draw yarn through 2 loops] twice.

Instructions

Note: Rounds are worked in spiral. Place locking marker on first st to mark the beg of rounds and transfer marker to first st on each round as you work.

Crown (make 2)

With size E (3.5 mm) hook, make an adjustable ring and close with sl st.

Rnd 1 (RS): 10 sc into ring. Gently pull end to tighten ring.

Rnd 2: 1 sc, 2 lsc in the next st, inc lsc to ldc, 2 ldc in the next stitch, *1 ldc, 2 ldc in the next st; rep from * to end of rnd—15 sts.

Rnd 3: 2 ldc in each st to end of rnd—30 sts.

Rnd 4: *Ldc in next 2 sts, 2 ldc in next st; rep from to end of rnd—40 sts.

Rnd 5: Inc ldc to ltc, 1 ltc in next 2 sts, 2 ltc in next st, *ltc in next 3 sts, 2 ltc in next st; rep from * to end of rnd—50 sts.

Rnd 6: *Ltc in 1st st, 2 ltc in next st; rep from * to end of rnd—75 sts.

Rnd 7: *Ltc in next 4 sts, 2 ltc in next st; rep from * to end of rnd—90 sts.

Continue to instructions for small, medium, or large sizes.

FOR SIZE SMALL

Rnd 8: (Dec ltc to ldc) in 1st st, ldc in next 7 sts, 2 ltc in next st, *ldc in next 8 sts, 2 ldc in next st; rep from * 3 more times, (dec ldc to lsc) in next st, lsc in the next 7 sts, 2 lsc in next st, *lsc in next 8 sts, 2 lsc in next st; rep from * 3 more times—100 sts.

FOR SIZE MEDIUM

Rnd 8: (Dec ltc to ldc) in 1st st, ldc in next 4 sts, 2 ltc in next st, *ldc in next 5 sts, 2 ldc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, (dec ldc to lsc) in next st, lsc in the next 4 sts, 2 lsc in next st, *lsc in next 5 sts, 2 lsc in next st; rep from * 6 more times—105 sts.

FOR SIZE LARGE

Rnd 8: *Ltc in next 8 sts, 2 ltc in next st; rep from * to end of rnd—100 sts.

Rnd 9: (Dec ltc to ldc) in 1st st, ldc in next 8 sts, 2 ltc in next st, *ldc in next 9 sts, 2 ldc in next st; rep from * 3 more times, (dec ldc to lsc) in next st, lsc in the next 8 sts, 2 lsc in next st, *lsc in next 9 sts, 2 lsc in next st; rep from * 3 more times—110 sts.

Set 1st circular panel aside. Fasten off.

Make 2nd circular panel as for 1st panel; do not fasten off.

With WS tog, match edges of both panels. Join together with loose slip stitch around edge between posts—100 (105, 110) sts. Do not fasten off.

Change to size G (4.0 mm) hook.

Welt

Rnd 1: Sc in each ch of the sl st seam to end of rnd—100 (105, 110) sts.

Rnds 2 and 3: Sc in each st to end of rnd.

Rnds 4 and 5: Sl st in each st to end of rnd.

Rnds 6 and 7: Sc in each st to end of rnd.

Fold welt to join with the outer edge crown.

Rnd 8: Sc in each st through both layers to end of rnd—100 (105, 110) sts. Do not fasten off.

Change to size E (3.5 mm) hook.

Side Band

Rnd 1: Sc in 1st st, lsc in next 3 sts, (inc lsc to ldc) in next st, ldc in next (47, 49, 52) sts, (inc ldc to ltc) in next st, ltc to end of rnd—100, 105, 110 sts.

Rnds 2–4: Ltc in each st to end of rnd.

Rnd 5: Ltc in next (49, 52, 54) sts, (dec ltc to ldc) in next st, ldc in each st to last 5 sts, then (dec ldc to lsc) in next st, lsc in next 3 sts, sl st in last st. Do not fasten off.

Change to size G (4.0 mm) hook.

Brim

Rnd 1 (RS): Sl st loosely between posts around edge of side band—100, 105, 110 sts.

Rnd 2: Sl st in 1st st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end of rnd—120, 126, 132.

Change to size E (3.5 mm) hook.

Rnd 3: Sc in 1st st, lsc in next 3 sts, (inc lsc to ldc) in next st, ldc in next (54, 57, 60) sts, (inc ldc to ltc) in next st, ltc in each st to end of rnd.

Rnd 4: *Ltc in next (19, 20, 21) sts, 2 ltc in next st; rep from * to end of rnd—126, 132, 138 sts.

Rnd 5: [Ltc in next (20, 21, 22) sts, 2 ltc in next st] twice, (dec ltc to ldc) in next st, ldc in next (19, 20, 21) sts, 2 ldc in next st, ldc in next (20, 21, 22) sts, 2 ldc in next st, (dec ldc to lsc) in next st, lsc in next (19, 20, 21) sts, 2 lsc in next st, lsc in next (20, 21, 22) sts, 2 lsc in next st—132, 138, 144. Do not fasten off.

Change to size C (2.75 mm) hook.

Trim the Brim

Rnd 6: Sc in each st to end of rnd—132, 138, 144.

Rnd 7: Sl st between posts of prev Rnd 6 to end of rnd. Turn.

Rnd 8 (WS): Sl st between posts of Rnd 6 to end. Fasten off, weaving end through first st following the chain pattern. Weave in ends.

Trim Top of Welt

With RS facing and with size C (2.75 mm) hook, work through the bar between Rnds 3 and 4 of the fold edge of welt (this is the row above the two slipped rows; start 3 or 4 sts away from the point of origin where rnds meet imperfectly) as folls:

Rnd 1: Sl st in first st, sc in each st to end of rnd—100, 105, 110 sts. Do not join rnd.

Rnd 2: Sl st between posts of rnd 1 to end of rnd. Turn.

Rnd 3 (RS): Sl st between posts of Rnd 1 to end. Fasten off weaving tail through first st of rnd foll chain pattern. Weave in ends.

Trim Side of Welt

With size E (3.5 mm) hook, locate rnd 1 of side band on the RS of the hat (this is the raised stitch where welt meets the side band). With RS of crown facing up, beg 3 or 4 sts away from the point of origin (where rounds meet imperfectly). Insert hook through the bottom of raised stitch and sl st to end of rnd. Fasten off, weaving tail through first st of rnd following chain pattern. Sew in ends.

Trim Inside Band

Note: For a closer fit, use size C (2.75 mm) hook.

With size E (3.5 mm) hook, locate the ch st seam where the side band meets the brim on the WS. With WS facing you, beg 3 or 4 sts away from the point of origin (where rnds meet imperfectly) and sl st to end of rnd. Fasten off, weaving tail through first st of rnd foll chain pattern. Weave in ends.

Finishing

Machine wash on gentle cycle in cold water. Gently remove excess water by laying hat on a dry absorbent towel and roll up in the towel, pressing firmly as you roll. Do not wring towel. Lay flat to dry. Iron lightly with spray starch to keep it crisp.

Optional Hatband with Band Loops

THE BAND LOOPS (MAKE 2)

With size E (3.5 mm) hook, ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end—6 sc. Turn.

Rows 2–6: Ch 1, sc in each sc. Turn.

EDGING

*Sl st between posts on long side—6 sl sts, ch 1, sl st in next 5 sc, ch 1; rep from * once more to end. Fasten off, leaving 6" (15 cm) tail for sewing.

THE HATBAND

(22, 23, 24) " [(56. 58.5, 61) cm]

With size E (3.5 mm) hook, ch 111, 116, 121.

Rnd 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next ch, sc in each ch to last 2 ch, 2 sc in each of last 2 ch. Cont to other side of fnd ch, 2 sc in each of first 2 ch, sc in each ch to last 2 ch, 2 sc in each of last 2 ch—118, 123, 128, sts.

Rnd 2: Sl st in top of each sc.

Rnd 3: Sl st in top of each sc from prev row. Join with sl st. Do not fasten off.

BUTTON LOOP

Change to size C (2.75 mm) hook and ch 10. Join with sl st to 1st ch.

Rnd 4: Sl st in each ch around, fasten off, sew in ends.

Wash straps and belt, air-dry flat.

ASSEMBLE AND SEW THE BAND LOOPS

With RS facing, sew bottom of band loop to seam where brim meets the side band using whipstitch. Sew top of band loop to side band leaving enough room to insert hat band through. In the same manner, sew second band loop directly on opppsite side of side band.

ASSEMBLE AND SEW THE HATBAND

With RS facing, sew first button to end of hatband before button loop. Sew 2nd button about ¾" (2 cm) from opposite end of hatband. Position this end of hatband about ½" (1.3 cm) from right side of a band loop and sew to side band using whipstitch. Insert button loop end of hatband counterclockwise through opposite band loop, then into 1st band loop to close button.