MILK STREET PANTRY
JAPANESE NOODLES 101
Don’t Assume Italian Pasta Is Always Best
Japanese noodles come in a variety of thicknesses, lengths and textures, and have different uses than basic Italian pasta. Chewy varieties such as ramen are great in soups and stir-fries, while stretchy, delicate somen noodles make great salads. (In fact, they’re a better choice than Italian pasta, which can turn mealy when cold.) In general, Japanese noodles should be cooked in a generous amount of water until tender—not al dente. Tasting for doneness is the best way to know when your noodles are ready. Some require rinsing after cooking to remove excess starch, and all are cooked without salt. Here are the varieties we reach for most often and how we like to cook them.
RAMEN
Chewy and stretchy, ramen noodles are made of wheat flour and an alkaline solution called kansui, which gives them their yellow hue. They usually are consumed in brothy soups or stir-fried with cabbage, pork and a sweet soy glaze. Most commonly sold in the U.S. in instant form, they also are available fresh and dried. We prefer dried, non-instant ramen, which typically come in straight bundles that cook in about 4 minutes. Drain and rinse in cold water, or drain and immediately add to soup.
Stir-Fried Ramen with Cabbage and Bean Sprouts
In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, toss 6 ounces dried ramen (cooked and drained) with 1 tablespoon sake, 1 tablespoon grapeseed or other neutral oil and ½ teaspoon soy sauce. Set over medium-high and cook, without stirring, until the noodles begin to brown on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Add 2 cups mung bean sprouts, 2 cups thinly sliced green cabbage, 2 tablespoons sake and 2 tablespoons water. Cover and cook until the vegetables are crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Uncover and stir in 2½ tablespoons oyster sauce, 4 teaspoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon neutral oil, ¼ teaspoon white sugar and ¼ teaspoon black pepper. If desired, top with 2 fried eggs.
UDON
Chewy and well-kneaded, udon noodles are made from wheat flour, water and salt and are available in a variety of thicknesses. Usually served hot in soup, stir-fried or chilled with dipping sauce. They are sold dried, frozen and fresh (refrigerated and shelf-stable). We prefer the firm, springy texture of frozen udon, but dried is more widely available. Cooking times vary, depending on brand and thickness; check the cooking instructions on the package, but check for doneness a few minutes early. Drain and rinse with water to stop the cooking.
Udon Noodle Soup with Pork and Spinach
In a medium bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon each white miso and soy sauce. Cut one 1-pound pork tenderloin (trimmed of silver skin) in half lengthwise, then slice each half crosswise about ¼ inch thick. Add the pork to the bowl and stir. In a large pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. Add 4 ounces dried udon noodles and cook until tender. Drain, rinse under lukewarm water, drain again, then divide among 4 serving bowls. In the same pot, bring 1½ quarts low-sodium chicken broth to a boil over medium-high. In a small bowl, whisk 3 tablespoons white miso with 2 tablespoons of the broth. Add the mixture to the pot along with 1 tablespoon soy sauce and 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger . Reduce to medium and simmer gently for 10 minutes, then bring to a boil over medium-high. Add the pork and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in 8 ounces baby spinach and 3 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar. Ladle the soup over the noodles, then sprinkle with 6 scallions (thinly sliced).
Gray-brown and nutty, soba noodles are made from a blend of buckwheat and wheat flours or all buckwheat. Often served chilled with a dashi-soy dipping sauce or hot in a dashi-based broth, though we also like them in noodle salads. Sold dried and frozen fresh. Pale green cha soba is flavored with matcha tea. We prefer the clean, nutty flavor of dried, 100 percent buckwheat soba, but it can be difficult to find. Cook for 7 to 8 minutes, or until tender. Drain and rinse with cold water until cold to the touch.
Dipping Sauce for Cold Soba
In a small saucepan over medium, simmer 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth, ½ cup soy sauce, ½ cup mirin and ¼ cup sake for 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate until cold. Divide the sauce between four bowls. Serve with cold cooked and drained soba noodles , along with thinly sliced scallions , toasted sesame seeds and wasabi paste for stirring into the dipping sauce.
SHIRATAKI
Bouncy, gelatinous and glassy, shirataki noodles have little flavor. Made from yam starch, water and pickling lime, they often are added to hot pots like sukiyaki, but also are used in stir-fries and noodle salads. Most commonly sold refrigerated and packed in liquid. Though they are pre-cooked, we prefer to drain and rinse the noodles, then blanch them in boiling water for about 3 minutes to improve the taste and texture. Drain and rinse with cold water.
Shirataki Noodles with Peanut Sauce
In a medium bowl, whisk together 5 tablespoons creamy peanut butter, 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 tablespoons white sugar, 1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar, 1 small garlic clove (finely grated) and 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger. Add two 7-ounce packages shirataki (blanched, drained and rinsed) and toss until evenly coated with the sauce. Serve topped with 4 scallions (thinly sliced) and pickled ginger.
SOMEN
Delicate, pale and thin, somen noodles are made from wheat flour dough that is oiled, then stretched several times. Usually served chilled in summer months with a soy dipping sauce. Sold dried, packaged in bundles. Add to boiling water and cook until tender, 2 or 3 minutes, stirring gently to prevent sticking, then drain and rinse with cold water until cool to the touch.
Somen Noodle Salad
In a small bowl, combine ⅓ cup soy sauce, ¼ cup unseasoned rice vinegar, 3 tablespoons white sugar, 1 tablespoon grapeseed or other neutral oil and 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil, then whisk until the sugar dissolves. Top cooked and drained somen noodles with shredded lettuce, cucumber matchsticks, thinly sliced radishes, thinly sliced scallions and toasted sesame seeds. Serve with the dressing on the side.