Appendix A: Extended Journeys

Many of the trails in the North Cascades are interconnected, allowing visitors to link them together for longer expeditions of varying length and difficulty. The expeditions described below represent only a small fraction of the possible treks. If you are of a more independent mind-set, the information in this guide allows you to use your own imagination to put together an extended journey that is custom-tailored to your desires and abilities. It is a good idea to discuss your itinerary with local rangers and find out about prevailing trail conditions before you begin your hike. Be sure that you have all the necessary permits before you go.

Beaver Loop, 3–5 days

This 35-mile route follows gentle valley bottoms with a few minor climbs, making it an ideal trip for beginning backpackers. This trek is not a true loop inasmuch as it requires a boat shuttle across Ross Lake from the mouth of Little Beaver Creek to return to the starting point. For parties who lack their own watercraft, the Ross Lake Resort provides a motorboat shuttle for a reasonable fee. Begin on the West Bank Trail, following it along the edge of Ross Lake to reach the mouth of Big Beaver Creek. The route now follows the Big Beaver Trail into the hinterlands of North Cascades National Park’s northwest corner. This trek is not known for mountain scenery, but the old-growth timber is unparalleled. A side trip to Whatcom Pass yields views of waterfalls and impressive glaciers and is highly recommended. To complete the trek, hike down Little Beaver Creek through even more ancient trees to reach the boat landing on Ross Lake.

Copper Ridge Loop, 3–6 days

This 29.9-mile route combines Hannegan Pass with a long, alpine trek along Copper Ridge, offering spectacular views. The return trip along the Chilliwack River features primeval stands of old-growth forest. Side trips include Hannegan Peak and Whatcom Pass for mountain scenery. Get permits early, because the campsites on Copper Ridge fill up quickly, especially on weekends.

Whatcom Pass Expedition, 6–9 days

From its beginnings in the Nooksack River drainage, this route leads over three passes for a 47.6-mile-long, point-to-point trek through the northern section of North Cascades National Park to reach Ross Dam. Follow the Hannegan Pass route to Boundary Camp, then descend into the headwaters of the Chilliwack River as mountain views are replaced by deep forests. The challenging climb begins about halfway up Brush Creek on the trail to Whatcom Pass. There are breathtaking waterfalls and glacier views on both sides of Whatcom Pass, including the magnificent Challenger Glacier. The trail then leads down the brushy valley of Little Beaver Creek. Heavy timber takes over as the trail approaches Stillwell Camp. From here, hikers can continue down Little Beaver Creek through ancient forests, cutting 12.2 miles from the journey but necessitating a boat shuttle down Ross Lake from the mouth of Little Beaver Creek. The preferred route runs over the low divide of Beaver Pass, then follows Big Beaver Creek through montane forests and cedar swamps to reach Ross Lake. Follow the West Bank Trail southward to end up at Ross Dam and a spur trail that rises to Washington Highway 20.

Cascades Crossing, 5–8 days

This route makes an excellent weeklong expedition of 44.2 miles, visiting some of the spectacular passes along part of the Pacific Northwest Trail in the heart of the North Cascades. Worthy side trips include the Horseshoe Basin and Sahale Arm. The trek begins with a climb over Easy Pass, where larches guard lush meadows that look out over the jagged peaks. The trail then leads down into Fisher Creek, following it down into the forest for a long trek to the Thunder Creek valley. Follow Thunder Creek upward, with challenging grades as the trail climbs high over Park Creek Pass. A steep descent leads into the Park Creek valley for impressive views of Buckner Mountain and its glaciers. The route then leads down into the Stehekin Valley. It is necessary to follow the Stehekin Valley road westward for 4.4 miles to reach the beginning of the Cascade Pass trail. Travelers now follow in the footsteps of the Skagit and Chelan peoples as the trail crosses over the spectacular divide of Cascade Pass to reach the end of the Cascade River Road. History buffs can seek out the ruins of old gold mining structures near Skagit Queen Camp, in Horseshoe Basin, and at Doubtful Lake.

Devils Dome Loop, 5–9 days

This 40.4-mile route has received lots of publicity in recent years, and as a result it has become rather crowded by wilderness standards. The route follows the East Bank Trail along Ross Lake, then turns inland and climbs vigorously to the alpine ridgetops of the Pasayten Wilderness. There are splendid views of Jack Mountain as the path climbs to the top of Devils Dome, and the alpine meadows and mountain scenery continue all the way to Devils Pass and beyond as the trail negotiates the steep climbs and descents of the Jackita Ridge Trail. Campers in the high country will find that water is scarce; the best sources and campsites are at the shelters at Bear Skull, below Devils Pass, and at Devils Park. After leaving the rolling meadows of Devils Park, the trail makes its way across the swampy shelf of McMillan Park and then passes the spur to Crater Lake, a highly recommended side trip. A steep descent leads down to the mouth of Canyon Creek. Turn east here to reach the bridge to WA 20 and cut off 3 miles of hiking, or turn west along Ruby Creek to complete the loop on foot. A boat shuttle to Devils Creek camp on Ross Lake trims two days of hiking from the journey.

The North Loop, 8–13 days

This route of 76.5 miles offers a challenging wilderness journey on trails that require strong route-finding skills, and for this reason it is rarely attempted. Nonetheless, it covers some of the most striking and remote country in the Pasayten Wilderness, and is unmatched for untainted wilderness grandeur. From Hozomeen, follow the Lightning Creek Trail down to the mouth of Three Fools Creek. The route now follows the lightly maintained Three Fools Trail through brushy bottoms and then up a long climb to the ridgetop behind Skagit Peak. Once in the alpine zone, expect the trail to be faint in places as the route runs eastward across the meadowy ridgetops to reach Castle Pass. Turn south here, following the Pacific Crest Trail (see Hike 56) along the timberline as it passes through Hopkins, Woody, and Rock Passes. In the wooded defile of Holman Pass, turn west onto the little-used Deception Pass Trail and follow it across the Canyon Creek basin then up to Sky Pilot Pass. After a low dip through Deception Pass, this trail winds upward to Devils Pass and a meeting with the Devils Dome Trail. Turn west and hike into the open meadows surrounding Devils Dome. After a long sojourn through the alpine tundra, the trail makes a long descent to Ross Lake. Arrange a boat shuttle to avoid 17.7 miles of hiking, or follow the East Bank Trail northward to Lightning Creek and follow the Lightning Creek Trail back to Hozomeen.

Frosty Pass Loop, 3–5 days

This 34-mile route begins and ends in Canada’s Manning Provincial Park and crosses into the Pasayten Wilderness, requiring special clearance from U.S./Canadian Customs in advance. Begin at the Monument 83 Trailhead and follow trail markers for Monument 78. A notoriously muddy jeep road (closed to public vehicles) leads 7.4 miles to Monument 78 on the Canadian border. From here, follow the Pacific Crest Trail (see Hike 56) up a moderate grade to Castle Pass. Continue through the pass a short distance, then turn left on the Frosty Pass Trail, which climbs steadily for 2 miles to a high and windswept divide. The trail descends into the Frosty Creek valley, passing an alpine cirque on its way to the valley floor. A long trudge through boggy spruce forest leads down Frosty Creek.

Travelers who wish to visit The Parks will need to watch for a faint path that splits away to the north (it is the only such path). The main trail continues down the valley to a junction along Chuchuwanteen Creek. Turn north across the mouth of Frosty Creek as the journey leads down this small river, then crosses it and begins a vigorous climb. High on the ridgetops is Monument Spring, the last good campsite. The trail then crosses the border atop a bald foothill with superb views and several structures of historical note. The route then follows a closed fire access road (see Hike 45) down through endless trees to return to its starting point.

Monument Peak Loop, 5–8 days

This 44-mile trek covers some of the most remote territory in the Pasayten Wilderness, on trails that see little use and may pose route-finding challenges. Start on the Monument Trail (Hike 62) and plan to camp at the mouth of Eureka Creek, since the next 7 miles are a long and wearying grade with no surface water. After crossing the ridgetops, the trail drops to Monument Creek and follows it upward. High in the drainage, timberline meadows are guarded by subalpine larch. The route leads over the barren summit of Shellrock Pass, then drops into the Eureka Creek valley. Another steady climb leads over a second divide to Freds Lake. The trail then makes the long descent to the Middle Fork of the Pasayten River to meet the Robinson Pass trail. Follow it southward, up the modest grade to Robinson Pass, then down the timbered drainage of Robinson Creek. The route passes a spectacular waterfall on Beauty Creek before depositing hikers on Harts Pass Road, just 2 miles west of the Monument Creek Trailhead. Start at Slate Pass and follow the Ferguson Lake routing for a point-to-point trek of 39 miles.

Rainbow Lake Loop, 4–6 days

This route can be approached with equal ease from WA 20 (28.5 miles overall) or the Stehekin Valley Road for a hike of 28 miles. It crosses two major passes and visits Rainbow and McAlester Lakes for high-country angling opportunities. Travelers approaching from the north will follow the Bridge Creek Trail down to Fireweed Camp to intersect the loop. From Stehekin, follow the Rainbow Creek routing upward with fine views of the Stehekin Valley as the trail climbs the slopes of Rainbow Mountain. It then follows Rainbow Creek all the way to McAlester Pass. Worthy side trips from the pass include the even higher summit of South Pass as well as Hidden Meadows, a popular horse camp. The trail then passes McAlester Lake on its way northward on the trail of the same name. Turn west at the Dagger Lake Trail junction; the route passes Fireweed Camp then joins the Bridge Creek Trail for a downstream journey through broad avalanche slopes. Turn south again at South Fork Camp, following the Rainbow Lake Trail up the South Fork Valley then heading over a high pass to reach Rainbow Lake. The trail leads down into Rainbow Meadows before returning to Rainbow Creek for the final leg of the trek.

Sawtooth Ridge Trek, 3–5 days

The routing selected here is only one of many loops that combine trails from the Twisp River valley with the Chelan Summit Trail. It maximizes striking scenery and wilderness quality at the expense of ease and convenience. A two-car shuttle is required to span the distance between the trailheads. Though not strenuous by physical standards, this route of 23.1 miles demands good wilderness skills since it follows a faint and little-maintained trail along Scaffold Ridge. After visiting Buttermilk Meadows and a nameless lake, the trail joins the West Fork Buttermilk trail for the final ascent over spectacular Fish Creek Pass.

A descent through larch-studded meadows leads to the Chelan Summit Trail. Turn north on this well-beaten route, hiking below the spine of Sawtooth Ridge through open meadows and stands of whitebark pine. At the mouth of the Horseshoe Basin, spur routes lead east to Tuckaway Lake and over the top of the divide to Oval Lakes. The main trail continues north, climbing over high passes with westward views of the peaks that guard Lake Chelan. After dropping into a pretty basin, the Eagle Pass Trail splits away to the east.

Follow it over the divide and down into the pretty valley of Eagle Creek. After dropping into the timber, a short spur leads to Silver Lake, while the main trail carries the traveler down Eagle Creek to return to “civilization.”

Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail, 10–16 days

The seminal hiking trail of the North Cascades, this trail stretches for 2,627 miles between the Mexican and Canadian borders. Hikers who attempt the entire route usually start in April and reach the North Cascades in mid-September. Our coverage picks up the trail at Suiattle Pass; hikers who attempt the 107-mile northern stretch can access the pass via Railroad Creek. From here, the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) follows the Agnes Creek routing, descending into forested bottoms and following Agnes Creek into North Cascades National Park. Through-hikers can catch a shuttle to Stehekin from this trailhead. To avoid hiking on the Stehekin Valley Road, cross High Bridge and follow the McAlester Mountain routing to Coon Lake. From its west shore, follow Old Wagon Road northward. It emerges on the road just south of Bridge Creek. Next, follow the Bridge Creek routing through a brushy valley. Just before reaching WA 20, turn left for the shady hike to Rainy Pass and cross the highway there.

Hitchhike into Winthrop and arrange to meet the Customs agent at the ranger station for a permit to cross the border. From this point north, the PCT is now described under the Granite Pass Highline entry (Hike 66). It climbs up to the ridgetops and follows them north to Methow Pass. Here, it picks up the West Fork Methow Trail for a substantial descent into the bottomlands.

Turn left at Brush Creek; the PCT route is now covered under the Trout Creek Divide description (Hike 71). This trail climbs to Glacier Pass, then continues up to the alpine divide above Trout Creek. It remains at timberline all the way to Harts Pass; connecting trails stay west of the campgrounds and roads here. The trail then follows the Cascade Crest route along the top of the divide, running northward through alpine country. It begins to descend at the Canadian border and emerges at a trailhead in Manning Provincial Park.