52 Devils Dome
An extended trip from Ross Lake to Devils Pass, 9.8 miles total.
Best season: Mid-July to mid-October.
Elevation gain: 5,232 feet.
Elevation loss: 1,052 feet.
Maximum elevation: 6,982 feet at Devils Dome.
Topo maps: Pumpkin Mountain, Jack Mountain, Shull Mountain;
Jurisdiction: North Cascades National Park, Pasayten Wilderness (Okanogan National Forest).
Finding the trailhead: The west end of the trail can be reached by boat at Devils Junction Camp, or on foot via the East Bank Trail from Washington Highway 20 (12.4 miles) or Hozomeen (17.7 miles). The east end of the trail can be reached via the Jackita Ridge Trail (15.2 miles) or the Deception Pass Trail (19.7 miles) from Harts Pass.
The Hike
This trail is one of the best known and most popular treks in the Pasayten country, climbing from Ross Lake to the ridgetops and following them eastward to Devils Pass. Its panoramic scenery is highlighted by grandstand views of Jack Mountain, and lush alpine meadows splashed with wildflowers accompany hikers along most of the route. Shelters wait near Dry Creek Pass and Devils Pass; surface water is hard to come by between the summit of Devils Dome and Devils Pass.
Departing from the East Bank Trail, the Devils Dome trek begins with a long and tedious climb through stands of young conifers, particularly western red cedar and Douglas fir. Upon reaching the boundary of the Pasayten Wilderness, the trail enters an old burn choked with hemlock saplings. The path enters a more open stand of Douglas fir as it climbs, and soon it turns eastward to traverse the mountainside high above Devils Creek. Gaps in the trees reveal the massive edifice of Jack Mountain on the far side of the valley, with the rumpled ice of Nohokomeen Glacier cupped within its northern buttresses.
Thickets of Douglas maple crowd the trail as it continues eastward. The path ultimately breaks out onto an arid, open slope where ceanothus, serviceberry, kinnikinnick, and arrowleaf balsamroot are the dominant plants. As the path continues its gentle ascent, it enters an extensive stand of lodgepole pine. Finally reaching the subalpine zone, the path enters open parklands where flower-strewn meadows are punctuated with stands of conical firs. An east-facing slope yields the first views of Devils Dome to the east, and soon the trail zigzags up to Dry Creek Pass.
The peaks of Jackita Ridge from the Devils Dome Trail
The path now follows a narrow ridgecrest eastward, climbing heartily. A spur path soon runs northward to end at the Bear Skull Shelter, while the main trail continues east and levels off amid a broad swath of alpine tundra. The verdant shelf falls away rapidly to the south, and ahead is the valley of a small but reliable brook. Views are superb from this area. Jack Mountain rises just across the valley with small glaciers adorning its northeast face. A thrust fault runs horizontally through this massive peak; the base of the mountain is composed of schist, a volcanic rock, while above the fault the rocky heights are made of much younger phyllite. Farther to the east are Crater Mountain and the many jagged summits of Jackita Ridge. The trail now follows the brook up to a grassy saddle, then zigzags up the final pitch to reach the bald summit of Devils Dome. Here, a level pad of tundra commands views that stretch to all horizons.
The trail drops southward from the summit, then tracks a narrow ridgeline eastward above precipitous cliffs. Phlox and other alpine wildflowers bloom profusely as the path makes its way down into a saddle at the base of a prominent summit. The trail swings south to bypass this prominence, traversing the alpine parks. Crater Mountain and Jackita Ridge now dominate the scenery straight ahead, while a backward glance reveals Jack Mountain in all its majesty. The path ultimately crosses a second saddle, then doglegs sharply to the northwest to traverse above a meadowy bowl. The path soon winds around onto timbered, south-facing slopes above the North Fork of Devils Creek. Openings are plentiful, revealing fine views of the surrounding peaks.
Reaching a low point on the ridgetop, the path crosses through grassy meadows surrounded by subalpine forest. The path drops through several prominent saddles, such as this one, before it finally reaches its end at Devils Pass. Here, watchful hikers may spot the well-hidden trail signs that point the way eastward to Deception Pass and southward to Jackita Ridge. To reach the Devils Pass shelter and its small but dependable spring, follow the Deception Pass Trail north to an unmarked junction where a spur path descends several hundred feet to reach the shelter in a small subalpine basin.
Miles and Directions
0.0Junction with East Bank Trail at Devils Camp. Trail climbs eastward.
1.2Trail leaves North Cascades National Park and enters Pasayten Wilderness.
4.5Dry Creek Pass.
4.8Spur trail runs north to Bear Skull shelter. Bear right for Devils Dome.
6.2Summit of Devils Dome.
9.8Devils Pass. Trail to Deception Pass and Devils Pass shelter runs north; Jackita Ridge Trail runs southeast.