Photo: Arc de Triomphe |
Photo: Arc de Triomphe |
A lot of major companies clamour for a place on what is often referred to as the most beautiful avenue in the world. The upper section, around the Arc de Triomphe, comprises luxury brand names: Guerlain, Cartier, Hugo Boss. The star among the flagship stores as well as the top tourist attraction is the home of the leather goods manufacturer, Louis Vuitton. A specially designed ‘promenade’ through the shop leads you past terraces, spectacular light and video installations, contemporary works of art and a huge, 65-foot-high atrium with 1,900 steel rods, which hang from the ceiling like icicles. Not far away Nespresso has opened a 5,600 ft2 location with an express bar, a lounge and a VIP area. Further down, just before you reach the haute couture street Avenue Montaigne, you can’t help but notice the flagship store of the sportsware concern Adidas, whose building is entirely finished in black and white. One of its competitors, Nike, has long had a store in the area. Citroën opened an avante-garde showroom made of glass and steel a few yards away. Even Renault, Toyota and Daimler use this prestigious location to their advantage to display prototypes, Formula 1 racing cars, spectacular installations – and also for entertaining guests.
The place where the legendary covered markets once stood has since become one of the city’s eyesores – especially at night, as it is known as the centre of the drug trade. This is about to change. Large sections of the dilapidated, four-storey shopping centre, grouped around a 43-foot hole in the ground known as the ‘pit of Paris’, is going to be completely rebuilt. The nearly 800,000 commuters who rely on this transportation hub daily will need to take this into consideration during building work. The entire area is to be spanned by a giant semi-transparent ceiling and the parks and playgrounds are to be expanded considerably. However, the project is experiencing considerable delays: work started in autumn 2010 and is not expected to be completed before 2016.
Paris’ flea markets, especially the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen at the Porte de Clignancourt, are a major attraction in the metropolis. Every year, more than five million people visit the largest antique market in the world which actually consists of 16 individual markets, open only from Saturday to Monday. In, and in front of, the many multi-level halls you can choose between clothing, various odds-and-ends and even a huge range of furniture. Every hall has its own theme – from Art Nouveau to the Seventies. At the end of the 19th century the market was driven out of Paris, but flourished on the northern edge of the city for many decades. Many foreigners – predominantly American – are among the market’s most important customers.
For a number of years now, business has been floundering. Many of its vendors are no longer making high enough sales and an ever increasing number have given up entirely. The downturn began following the absence of Americans as a result of the September 11 attacks, and continued to slow down during the financial crisis. What is more, high-end vendors have turned to the more costly antique shops in Saint-Germain-des-Prés or from the auction house Drouot, while the lower-end segment has sufferef from competition from private flea markets and the Internet.
For tourists, however, it’s still a treat to wander around the various stands outside or through the halls, with the hope of finding a few bargains. And an unuusual souvenir is always a nice reminder of a holiday in Paris. Despite discussions about the future of flea markets there have also been some interesting new developments. In some of the halls, restaurants have become established, some even with jazz music.
Although it is not the oldest underground railway system in the world, it is certainly one of the most densely knit networks. There is supposedly nowhere in Paris further than 1,900 feet from one of the 300 stations. However, the trains do not exactly race along the tracks at the speed of light, and the system is vulnerable to all sorts of disruptions. If transport workers are not on strike, technical problems, vandalism, young people blocking doors or cases of suicide frequently paralyse the city’s tram and underground system. For decades there has been precious little investment in public transportation: the pressure put on the track network is now too great and the materials not up-to-date. The trains, which are on average 30 years old, and the stations and tracks have to cope with five million passengers daily, two million of whom use the rapid transit system lines RER A and RER B. If at all possible, avoid travelling between 8am–10am, as well as between 5pm and 7.30pm.
Nevertheless, despite its flaws, the Métro is still the most recommended means of transport for navigating Paris, although it only operates until 12.30am. Some stations were decorated in the beautiful Art Nouveau style by Hector Guimard – Abbesses station for instance – which dates from the early days of the underground system. In contrast to this, the driverless underground lines 1 and 14 are chic and ultramodern.
There is hardly a city in the world that can boast as many museums as Paris. Contemporary art used to live a peripheral existence and artists had to eke out a living in an exorbitantly expensive city. This has changed since the inauguration of the international contemporary art fair FIAC which takes place every year in October, as well as exhibitions at the Palais de Tokyo where modern art has be given a forum. Another new cultural centre also offers contemporary artists a home. Centquatre (www.104.fr), a gigantic hall covered with a 19th-century glass roof, provides flats and studios for artists as well as shops, a restaurant, café and concert halls.
Temporary exhibitions in the Palais de Tokyo are dedicated to modern art |
The Moulin Rouge, cabarets, jazz clubs, the Pigalle red-light district and discos such as Les Bains Douches: Paris nightlife is legendary. But its glory has faded. Many tourists as well as locals have been ripped off. Even if you pass the strict dress code, you will need a great deal of cash: the cover charge can be as high as 30 euros, and expect to shell out a minimum of another 10 euros for a drink voucher. Increasingly strict regulations as a result of residents’ complaints, the early closure of the Métro, the lack of taxis and expensive parking fees have led to a 2am curfew.
16,000 luminaries of Paris’ night life have drafted a petition called: ‘When the night dies in silence’, in an attempt to put across the position of night-owls and associated venues. Even the city administration has recognised the problem and points out that Paris can pride itself on its 200 nightclubs and more than 15,000 cafés and restaurants – with something for everyone. Cheaper options can always be found in Bastille or in the Rue Oberkampf.
Paris is choked to death by the traffic. The Boulevard Périphérique is not the only ring road notorious for traffic jams. Even the roads built along the Seine in the 1960s and 1970s are susceptible to gridlocks. The Lord Mayor, Bertrand Delanoë, is keen on putting an end to the dominance of the car and is dedicated to making Paris a better place to live in once again by reducing the traffic. First steps in this direction have included the creation of bus and bicycle lanes and the bicycle rental agency, Vélib.
A second initiative is planned, namely the rental of 
electric cars (Autolib), whose mandate is to discourage Parisians from buying their own cars. As of 2012, 3,000 vehicles with a range of up to 155 miles can be rented at more than 1,000 centres in Paris and in 40 surrounding communities. This is an attractive alternative for both Parisians and tourists alike. One-day rentals (10 euros) and 7-day rentals (15 euros) are available, with 7 euros charged for every half an hour. You can reserve on the Internet, by telephone or on-site. It remains to be seen whether this will benefit the system or simply exacerbate the city’s traffic problems.
The mayor has yet another project for reducing the number of cars in Paris. It may infuriate motorists but will probably appeal to tourists. He plans to create a car-free zone along the 1½mi left bank of the Seine between the Musée d’Orsay and the Eiffel Tower, and significantly narrow the streets on the right bank. The newly-created space is to be used for gardens with rest areas, playgrounds, sports facilities, cafés, artificial islands, even cinemas and nightclubs. Parisians and visitors to the city will finally be able to enjoy the unique sites along the river. A pilot project was previously carried out in the form of the initiative ‘Paris-Plage’ (Paris Beach), during which the road along the river was closed off in the summer, lots of sand was piled up, palm trees planted, kiosks installed and concerts held everywhere. Even new river ferry services are in the works, and the Piscine Josephine Baker, a swimming pool on a boat, was anchored outside the Bibliothèque Nationale.
Parisians enjoy sitting outdoors. But in the light of increasingly high costs many residents and tourists have discovered the simple pleasure of a picnic at the appearance of the first rays of sunshine. A favourite sport is the pedestrian bridge, Pont des Arts, which has a view towards the Louvre and Île de la Cité and, on warm evenings, there is rarely any enough space. Please note that inner-city parks are not a viable alternative since walking on the grass is not permitted, although this does not apply to the parks by the Eiffel Tower.
The sunlit quays on the Seine are even more popular, especially in the afternoon. On Sunday there are also sections closed to traffic which are otherwise quite busy. A unique vista is the shadowy western tip of the island, Île de la Cité, especially at dusk, although it is usually crowded at this time. The romantically inclined and dance freaks often picnic on the Seine quay, Saint-Bernard, (left of the Seine, between Île de la Cité and Austerlitz station). Salsa and tango dancing are popular in the early evening around the small inlets directly on the river (free).
In the afternoon and late into the evening, 
picnicking can also be recommended along the Canal Saint-Martin, near the nightlife districts Bastille, Rue Oberkampf and Belleville. Signs along the romantic, tree-lined waterways ask people not to picnic after 9pm, so as not to disturb the residents, but few heed the message. It is common for picnickers to spread out their blankets late in the evening, eat baguettes and cheese, quiche Lorraine and cakes from the market, homemade treats or produce from a catering service washed down with cider, wine or beer. A picnic is an economical and romantic affair in a typically Parisian atmosphere.
Paris is not exactly known as a bicycle-friendly metropolis. At certain intersections such as the Arc de Triomphe, it can be perilous braving the traffic on a bicycle. But measures are being taken to alleviate the danger: under the name Vélib (vélo libre service), the city council has set up more than 1,400 bicycle rental centres at which more than 20,000 vélos can be rented (www.velib.paris.fr). The grey, three-speed bicycles equipped with a basket at the front will not be disappearing from the city landscape anytime either. This facility is also appealing for tourists. You can purchase a 1-day ticket (1 euro) or 7-day ticket (5 euros) with a credit card. The first half hour is free, 30–60 min cost 1 euro, 60–90 min 3 euros with 4 euros for every additional half hour. Short rides offer the best value. The reasonably priced map, ‘Paris Vélib’ (Michelin map No. 61), which marks all bicycle paths, can be recommended.
Vélo libre service (Vélib): over 20,000 bicycles are available to rent in Paris |