Photo: Musée du Louvre |
Photo: Musée du Louvre |
HIGHLIGHTS | AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER AND LES INVALIDES | ALONG THE CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES | SENTIER DISTRICT AND OPÉRA | FROM LES HALLES TO THE BASTILLE | RIVE GAUCHE AND THE ISLANDS | OTHER DISTRICTS | OUTSIDE THE CITY
WHERE TO START?
Paris is large, and there is no so-called city centre. For a proper overview, it’s best to take the Métro line M 2 to Anvers Street Atlas [133 D5]. As soon as the train is above ground, you’ll see Sacré-Cœur. Once you’ve scaled the steps, you’ll have Paris at your feet. For a close-up of the Île de la Cité and the Louvre the (admittedly complex) Métro/RER railway station Châtelet-Les Halles Street Atlas [139 D–E5] is the ideal starting point.
Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements. In order to provide a better overview, they have been categorised into five areas in this guidebook. Find the one that best suits you – and bear in mind that a combination of museum visits and outdoor activities is often the best balance.
There is masses to see and do in Paris. To prevent your exploration of the city from becoming too much, it’s well worth seeking out one of the magnificent parks or relaxing in one of the numerous cafés – one of the many ways to reflect on the Parisian way of life. People-watching is often an activity in itself. If you’re tired of walking, the bus route 73 will take you past La Défense and the Arc de Triomphe, down the Champs-Élysées and around the Place de la Concorde up to the Musée d’Orsay, and passes an array of sights on the way: an economical and comfortable means of taking in the city.
Paris is a city of museums, with some 160 in total. In the larger ones it’s best just to pick out a few sections to visit. Anyone who capitulates in the face of the sometimes very extensive collections – in the Louvre, you would have to walk some 17km (10½mi) to see everything – can visit one of the many smaller city palaces which are often veritable treasure troves. Note that most of the city’s museums are closed on Mondays, while many national museums are closed on Tuesdays.
The ‘Paris Museum Pass’ allows you to visit 60 museums and other places of interest including Versailles (two days: 35 euros, four days: 50 euros, six days: 65 euros). You can obtain the pass at the Office du Tourisme (see p. 116), in Fnac stores, at major Métro stations and online. Incidentally, many museums are free on the first Sunday of the month. Most places offer discounts for students and senior citizens – EU passport holders under 26, for example, have free admission to all national museums (musées nationaux) in the city. www.parismuseumpass.fr | www.fnac.com | www.rmn.fr
|
Eiffel Tower  |
‘La Dame en Fer’ – The Iron Lady |
|
|
Île de la Cité |
Still vital and vibrant: the nucleus of the city |
|
|
Arc de Triomphe |
The gateway honouring the Napoleonic Army |
|
|
Notre-Dame |
Buttresses, portals and gargoyles |
|
|
Musée du Louvre |
The glass pyramid, a Renaissance palace and a museum of superlatives |
|
|
Musée d’Orsay |
Belle-Époque railway station sets the stage for Impressionist paintings |
|
|
Centre Georges Pompidou |
Futuristic tubular construction providing a framework for modern art |
|
|
Place des Vosges |
The old dignified royal square has now regained its original splendour |
|
|
Musée Quai Branly |
The breathtaking museum provides an insight to the world’s cultures |
|
|
Jardin du Luxembourg |
A sumptuous park with a palace in the Florentine style |
The elegant streets where consulates, ministries and several beautiful palaces are located are relatively calm and the pace more leisurely. Tourists crowd around this area to see the Eiffel Tower, the city’s major landmark. The most popular photo opportunity, however, is on the other side of the Seine, from the vestibule of the Palais de Chaillot, whose side wings accommodate a museum, a theatre (www.theatre-chaillot.fr) and 
a restaurant with a superb view. The most popular museum there is the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (www.citechaillot.fr), in which the work of prominent French architects and their buildings from the 12th century onwards are exhibited.
You can avoid the lengthy 
queue in front of the Eiffel tower by booking a 3½-hour city tour at Parisvision (www.parisvision.com) | admission and a priority line up to the Eiffel Tower are included for 38 euros. Or make a reservation (weeks in advance is advised) at one of the two restaurants in the tower and enjoy the privilege of a private lift. You have a choice between Jules Verne (see p. 64) or the less pricey 58 Tour Eiffel on the first floor. Daily | tel. 08 25 56 66 62 | www.restaurants-toureiffel.com | Moderate–Expensive. And if you don’t want to wait or dine, take a look at the tower from below and stroll through the nearby park along the Esplanade des Invalides, at the end of which is Les Invalides where Napoleon’s tomb can be found.
EIFFEL TOWER (TOUR EIFFEL) Street Atlas [136 B5] | Google Map
Paris would not be Paris without the Eiffel Tower. The 985-foot-high landmark long held the distinction as the highest structure in the world. Built by Gustave Eiffel on the occasion of the 100-year anniversary of the French Revolution and the World Exposition in 1889, the steel structure was initially highly controversial. The tower was originally only meant to stay there for 20 years. But, because of its importance as a weather station and later for air traffic as well as a radio and television station, it was allowed to remain.
The first platform, at a height of 380 feet, provides an impressive panoramic view over Paris; from the highest level at 900 feet, the view on a clear day extends right across the whole Paris basin. From the Palais de Chaillot (M 6, 9: Trocadéro) you have the best view of the Eiffel Tower itself.
Daily 9am–midnight, 17 June–29 Aug 9am–12.45am, stairs until 6pm or midnight | lift/stairs to 2nd floor 8.20/6.60 euros, 3rd floor 13.40/11.80 euros | Champ de Mars | 7th arr. | M 6: Bir Hakeim 
| www.tour-eiffel.fr
The Hôtel des Invalides is, after Versailles, the largest building complex constructed under the rule of Louis XIV. The ‘Sun King’ had it erected for wounded war veterans. To prevent the former soldiers from being forced to beg or steal, up to 3,000 invalids were kept occupied in specially designed workshops under a watchful eye and with ample provisions. In addition to the soldiers’ church, the Baroque Dôme des Invalides, with its shining golden dome, is the main attraction. Napoleon’s tomb dominates the area beneath the dome. The annexed Army Museum, founded in 1794, is one of the largest of its kind in the world and testifies to the glory of the French Army. Daily, April–Sept 10am–6pm, Oct–March 10am–5pm (Tue 9pm) | 9 euros | Esplanade des Invalides | 7th arr. | M 8: La Tour-Maubourg, M 13: Varenne | www.invalides.org
Les Invalides is the site of Napoleon’s tomb which consists of six interlocking coffins |
Street Atlas [136 C4] | Google Map
The museum reopened several years ago after extensive renovations. Among the exhibits of modern art (Fernand Léger, Robert Delaunay, Pablo Picasso, Georges Braque, Amedeo Modigliani) admire Raoul Dufy’s Fée Electricité (the largest painting in the world) and La Danse by Henri Matisse, among a host of other masterpieces. Stunning view from the terrace of the museum restaurant (the salads are highly recommended) over the Seine to the Eiffel Tower nearby. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (Thu 10pm) | free admission (temporary exhibitions 5–11 euros) | 11, av. du Président Wilson | 16th arr. | M 9: Iéna | www.mam.paris.fr
Street Atlas [136 B3] | Google Map
With its extraordinarily extensive collection of Asian art, the museum provides an intensively vivid picture of the Far East and its religions. Selected objects from India, China, Japan, Indonesia and Tibet are displayed here. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm | admission 7.50 euros | 6, pl. d’Iéna | 16th arr. | M 9: Iéna | www.museeguimet.fr
Street Atlas [138 A6] | Google Map
Dina Vierny, the founder of the museum and a former model, assembled this testimony to the ground-breaking sculptor and painter Aristide Maillol (1861–1944) and his elegant works. 18 female sculptures by Maillol are also featured in the Jardin des Tuileries. Wed–Mon 10.30am–7pm | admission 11 euros | 59–61, rue de Grenelle | 7th arr. | M 12: rue du Bac | www.museemaillol.com
MUSÉE QUAI BRANLY 
Street Atlas [136 C4] | Google Map
The museum designed by the renowned architect Jean Nouvel at the base of the Eiffel Tower provides an extensive overview of non-European culture. The exhibitions are attractively displayed with more than a hundred video and multimedia installations to stimulate any inquisitive visitor. Special events are also regularly held, e.g. theatre, dance and music. Tue, Wed, Sun 11am–7pm, Thu, Fri, Sat 11am–9pm | admission 8.50 euros | 222, rue de l’Université | 7th arr. | M 9: Iéna, RER C: Pont de l’Alma | www.quaibranly.fr
Street Atlas [137 E–F6] | Google Map
No less a luminary than the German poet Rainer Maria Rilke, who temporarily worked as Auguste Rodin’s private secretary, persuaded him to settle in this grand city palace. In addition to famous works such as The Kiss or The Cathedral, some works by his gifted pupil and lover, Camille Claudel, can also be seen here. The accompanying sculpture park and café are a perfect place to relax, surrounded by art. The museum is being renovated and work will continue until 2013. Tue–Sun 10am–5.45pm (Wed 8.45pm), park 5pm (in summer 6.45pm) | admission 6 euros (park 1 euro) | 77, rue de Varenne | 7th arr. | M 13: Varenne | www.musee-rodin.fr
‘The Gates of Hell’ in the garden at the Musée Rodin: part of the bronze sculpture |
Street Atlas [136 C3] | Google Map
Not a museum in the classical sense. Contemporary artists present their sometimes provocative and giant installations in temporary exhibitions within the halls constructed for the 1937 World Exposition near the Eiffel Tower. The café Tokyo Idem, reminiscent of a modest canteen, is considered ultra-trendy by young Parisians. Tue–Sun noon–9pm | admission 5 euros | 13, av. du Président Wilson | 16th arr. | M 9: Iéna | www.palaisdetokyo.com
Traffic on the multiple-lane grand boulevard is hectic day and night. Pandemonium also rules among the masses of tourists who spill out onto the broad pavements every season. In the boutiques, some of which are open until midnight, and in the numerous cafés, the motto ‘see and be seen’ prevails. In order to uphold this standard, the city authorities have recently adopted a policy limiting the number of cheap chain stores that are permitted to settle in this coveted area. The grand boulevard is intersected at the lower end by the Avenue Montaigne, one of the most expensive addresses when it comes to fashion. The glass palaces, the Grand and Petit Palais, erected in 1900 on the occasion of the World Exposition, are located in this section lined by luxuriant greenery, along with the Palais de la Découverte which now houses the science museum.
Don’t forget to make a detour to the right of the Louvre in the direction of Pont Alexandre III. From this vantage point you can really appreciate the splendour so typical of the Napoleonic era and the Belle Époque, and it is not difficult imagining why people flocked to the World Exposition from far and wide and to admire the splendour of this city. If you’re still in a walking mood and are game for another round of sightseeing, cross to the Place de la Concorde and stroll down the elegant Rue Royale with its stylish boutiques to the church of Sainte-Maria Madeleine (La Madeleine). If you would rather relax instead, catch your breath in the Jardin des Tuileries then make your way to the adjacent Louvre.
ARC DE TRIOMPHE Street Atlas [136 B–C1] | Google Map
The 165-foot-high landmark created by Jean François Chalgrin, based on buildings from Antiquity, rises up along of the impressive axis drawn between the small arch of the Louvre and the large arch of La Défense. After Napoleon had commissioned the building in 1806 in honour of his ‘great army’ and his victory at the Battle of Austerlitz, it would be another 30 years until its completion. Under the arch, which features important reliefs, including ‘La Marseillaise’, you will find the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the starting point for the military parade held every year on 14 July. An underground passage near the Métro station at the Place Charles de Gaulle-Étoile leads past a small museum on the history of the Arc de Triomphe and the entrance to the viewing platform. You should by no means miss this phenomenal view: no less than a dozen avenues radiate out from the monument in the shape of a star. Daily, April–Sept 10am–11pm, Oct–Mar 10am–10.30pm | 9.50 euros | M 1, 2, 6/RER A: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile | www.arc-de-triomphe.monuments-nationaux.fr
Street Atlas [136 C–F 2–3] | Google Map
The allegedly most beautiful street in the world is not particularly appreciated by Parisians since it is teeming with tourists between the Arc de Triomphe and Place de la Concorde. There are lengthy queues of tourists and locals alike in the evenings and especially at weekends in front of the large cinemas featuring premieres. While the upper part of the avenue consists of fast food chains and other businesses, the magnificence of the Belle Époque is evident further down.
A short detour to the Avenue de Marigny leads you directly to the front of the Élysée Palace, the well guarded President’s residence. Famous addresses on the mile-long grand boulevard are the elegant perfumery Guérlain (no. 68), the renowned dance theatre Lido (no. 116), the CD and bookstore Virgin Megastore (nos. 52–60) as well as the exclusive boutique, Louis Vuitton (no. 101). 8th arr. | M 1: George V; M 1, 9: Franklin D. Roosevelt; M 1, 13: Champs-Élysées-Clemenceau
Street Atlas [137 D3] | Google Map
The city’s stretch of luxury boutiques, a side street of the Champs-Élysées, is where you’ll find nearly every notable fashion designer (Versace, Ricci, Dior, Lacroix), jewellers, perfumeries and leather goods stores. It is not uncommon for customers to be brought to the entrance by their chauffeurs where they are then greeted by white-gloved porters. If you can afford to stay in a luxury hotel, try the Plaza Athenée (no. 25). You will also find the Théatre des Champs-Elysées with its beautiful façade designed by Antoine Bourdelle on this street. 8th arr. | M 1, 9: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Street Atlas [138 C4] | Google Map
The shopping arcade has existed since 1990. It is – to a certain extent – part of the Louvre and its opening hours correspond to those of the museum. There are upscale boutiques in the large, bright aisles beneath the glass pyramid and the Louvre, as well as restaurants and cafés. This is the ideal place to take cover during a walk on a rainy Sunday or o purchase last-minute gifts for friends and family back home. The Boutique des Musées Nationaux offers reproductions of works of art from various French museums as well as a choice selection of cards and books. An eatery that offers a different style of refreshment after a long stroll: Restorama (Budget) serves specialities from all over the world. 1st arr. | M 1, 7: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
Both palaces were constructed for the 1900 World Exposition and their opulent, historcised, decorative sculptures symbolise one of the most flourishing cultural epochs of the Seine metropolis. The iron and glass construction and domes are jewels of Art Nouveau and the Belle Époque. While the Grand Palais features exclusively top class, temporary exhibitions, the lavishly restored Petit Palais has a permanent exhibition with artworks and paintings from 18th and 19th centuries (free admission). 3, av. du Général Eisenhower and av. Winston Churchill | 8th arr. | M 1, 13: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau | www.grandpalais.fr; www.petitpalais.paris.fr
Street Atlas [138 A–B 3–4] | Google Map
Regarded as the ‘front garden’ of the Louvre, this Baroque park has existed since 1666. It was one of the first parks opened to the general public and became a model for many other parks in Europe. Especially noteworthy are the 18 statues of women by Aristide Maillol, which seem almost surreal peeking out between the carefully manicured hedges. 1st arr. | M 1, 8, 12: Concorde, M 1: Tuileries
The park designed by André Le Nôtre is a World Heritage Site today: Jardin des Tuileries |
MUSÉE DU LOUVREStreet Atlas [138 C4–5] | Google Map
A well thought out strategy is required for a visit to the most rambling museum in the world. After all, there is much more to admire in the Louvre than the awe-inspiring ladies ‘Venus of Milo’ (2nd century BC), Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Mona Lisa’ (16th century) and Jan Vermeer’s ‘The Lacemaker’ (17th century). To avoid the long queue at the entrance under the pyramid, use the Porte des Lions (Seine side) entrance in the Denon wing. From there you’ll soon be standing in front of the perennially besieged ‘La Joconde’, the Mona Lisa, who shines in a new light in the recently renovated Salle des Etats. You should also obtain a floor plan from the Information counter and the plan showing which collections are closed that week. Culture seekers can then choose from a comprehensive range of exhibits dating back to the 7th century B.C. which includes Oriental, Egyptian (particularly monumental) and Graeco-Roman civilisations divided among the three building complexes (Denon, Sully, Richelieu). Apart from European sculpture from the Middle Ages to the 19th century, arts and crafts and over 100,000 items of graphic art spanning six centuries, the paintings collection is a highlight. Sub-divided into regions it documents European painting from the 13th to the 19th centuries. The opulent décor of the Apollon-Galerie bears witness to the crown jewels and paintings by Charles Le Brun, Eugène Delacroix among others during the reign of the Sun King, Louis XIV.
Take a break from your museum visit in the aesthetic underground shopping arcade, Carrousel du Louvre (open Sundays), in a café or one of the many international fast food restaurants. Even if you forego a visit to the museum, it is worth your while simply taking a closer look at the Louvre complex, which was transformed into a Renaissance palace from a 12th-century fort. The exposed medieval foundations, the beautifully illuminated Cour Carée, the small triumphal arch, forming a focal axis with its big brother, and the audacious glass pyramid by the Chinese architect, Ieoh Ming Pei are absolute highlights of any visit to Paris.
Wed–Mon 9am–6pm (Wed and Fri to 10pm) | admission 10 euros (free up to 25 years) | M 1, 7: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre | www.louvre.fr. Advance tickets can be obtained at railway stations (SNCF) or at Fnac: tel. 08 92 68 46 94, or from abroad: tel. 0033 1 40 20 53 17. The automatic ticket machines are easy to use and significantly shorten the queueing time.
Street Atlas [138 A4] | Google Map
In the Jardin des Tuileries adjacent to the Louvre is the remarkable collection assembled by the art dealer Paul Guillaume, including works by Auguste Renoir, Pablo Picasso, Paul Cézanne, Henri Matisse and Amedeo Modigliani. The highlight, however, is the famous ‘Nymphéas’ (Water Lilies) by Claude Monet, whose eight large compositions adorn the walls in an elliptical form and enhance the impression of flowing water and light. Wed–Sun 9am–6pm (Fri to 9pm ) | admission 7.50 euros | Place de la Concorde | Jardin des Tuileries | 1st arr. | M 1, 8, 12: Concorde | www.musee-orangerie.fr
A combined ticket with the Musée d’Orsay (13 euros) ensures priority in the queues to both museums.
MUSÉE D’ORSAY 
Street Atlas [138 A–B 4–5] | Google Map
The painters of light, the Impressionists, form the focal point in the rooms of this former railway station, converted in 1986. Works by the precursors of modernist painting such as Vincent van Gogh, Paul Gauguin and Paul Cézanne can also be admired. The paintings, sculptures, collection of art objects as well as urban planning documentation, film and film poster art cover the period from 1848–1914, one of the most fruitful epochs in art history. Not only is the museum book shop’s extensive selection impressive, but so is the elegant restaurant, where the modern seating harmonises well with the splendour of the Belle-Époque era. Tue–Sun 9.30am–6pm (Thu to 9.45pm) | admission 8 euros | 1, rue de la Légion d’Honneur | 7th arr. | M 12: Solférino | www.musee-orsay.fr
Great art in an old railway station: sculptures in the central area of the Musée d’Orsay |
Street Atlas [138 A3] | Google Map
The most monumental square in Paris is superlative in every way: you have the entire Champs-Élysées up to the Arc de Triomphe before your very eyes from its middle point, the 3,300 year-old, 75-foot-high Egyptian obelisk. It is hard to imagine that, on this very square built in 1775, thousands of opponents of the Revolution – including Louis XVI himself and his wife, Marie-Antoinette, Robespierre and the Countess du Barry, met their deaths here by guillotine. The eight female statues framing the Place de la Concorde represent the eight largest cities in France. 8th arr. | M 1, 8, 12: Concorde
Street Atlas [137 E4] | Google Map
Tsar Nicholas II personally laid the foundation for the city’s most magnificent bridge in 1896, which connects the Grand Palais and the Esplanade des Invalides. In sunny weather the gold of the winged Belle-Époque horses shimmering on the bridge’s corner pillars can be seen from far and wide. 8th arr. | M 8, 13/RER C: Invalides
The Pont Alexandre III is only one of 35 bridges over the Seine in Paris and one of the most scenic |
Elevate your spirits in the ethereal atmosphere provided by star couturier Kenzo: recover from a stressful shopping spree in the futuristically designed spa La Bulle Street Atlas [139 D4–5], which is suffused in coloured light. Aromatic fragrance discoveries and massages with unusual tactile stimuli such as feathers round off the sensory experience. The products which you can obtain in the boutique are based on select Asian ingredients such as bamboo and ginger blossoms, white lotus, or steamed rice. A one-hour massage with rice grains by candlelight starts at 82.50 euros, a facial with white lotus, 123 euros. Mon–Sat 11.30am–8pm | 1, rue du Pont-Neuf | 1. arr. | tel. 01 42 36 56 73 |M 7: Pont Neuf |www.labullekenzo.com
The pressure caused by cheaper imports from Asia has caused a number of businesses to close and even the wholesale trade is suffering from competition from other regions. The chic Place des Victoires with boutiques and its architecturally stunning shopping arcades from the 19th century are a testimony to the former affluence of this district. You could easily spend half a day strolling through the covered shopping centres resplendent with mirrors, brass and wooden panelling, where you feel as if you have travelled back in time to the elegant 18th century (albeit slightly faded), complete with stagecoaches on the streets. The area between the Palais Royal and the Boulevard Montmartre is lined with some better and some less-well restored arcades, ideal for those looking for old books and handicrafts, or who enjoy shopping in exquisite, time-honoured shops. Afterwards, enjoy a break in one of the area’s quiet, stylish cafés. The famous department stores, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, are also in the vicinity.
In this district of Paris a large amount of money is spent as well as earned. Apart from the imposing headquarters of major banks and insurance agencies there is also the classical building that houses the Paris stock exchange, although there has long been no floor trading here. The street cafés and restaurants are frequented by elegantly-clad business people holding extended lunch meetings. The Opéra Garnier lends the district its share of culture. A little further north, the legendary artistic and entertainment district of Montmartre stretches up the hill (see City Walks, p. 104).
Street Atlas [138 C3] | Google Map
The gallery is considered the ‘Queen of Parisian arcades’ and was completely refurbished at the turn of the millennium. Here, under glass-domed roofs, you can saunter past select shops over the beautiful mosaics on the floor made in the neo-Classical style. After a visit to Emilio Robba, where you’ll find the most gorgeous artificial flowers, sample an exquisite ‘chocolat à l’ancienne’ in the tea room, A priori thé. Not far afield is the building of the same vintage, the Galerie Colbert with its Pompeian-style rotunda. 4, rue des Petits Champs | 2nd arr. | M 3: Bourse
Street Atlas [138 A2] | Google Map
The church Sainte-Maria Madeleine, built in 1764 and reminiscent of a Greek temple, was used by Napoleon as a monument to the glory of his army. It later served as a parliament buildings, stock exchange and national library, and was consecrated as a church in 1842. Today, it is a venue for memorial services for famous singers and actors. Daily 7.30am–7pm | Place de la Madeleine | 8th arr. | M 8, 12, 14: Madeleine
Street Atlas [138 B2] | Google Map
The sumptuous palace laden with marble and gold was completed by Charles Garnier in 1875, and can be visited outside rehearsal hours. The opulent vestibule is quite remarkable, as are the ceiling paintings created by Marc Chagall in 1964. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm | 8 euros | Place de l’Opéra | 9th arr. | M 3, 7, 8: Opéra, RER A: Auber | www.operadeparis.fr
The Opéra Garnier was the largest opera house in the world when it was constructed in 1875 |
Street Atlas [138 C3–4] | Google Map
A historic place of refuge in the turbulent city centre. Although it is an idyllic place to stroll today, shaded by the lime trees, it was once an epicentre of historical significance. Cardinal Richelieu, who had the palace and its surrounding park constructed in 1634, later bequeathed it to Louis XIII. Its subsequent owners, the House of Orléans, expanded it. Behind the uniform façades with rounded, arched arcades, shops can still be found just like centuries ago. The French Revolution began here in July 1789. In the adjacent courtyard next to the Comédie Française, the columns of varying heights by Daniel Buren in 1986 provide an interesting counterbalance to the historical backdrop. 1st arr. | M 1, 7: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
Street Atlas [138 B3] | Google Map
This masterpiece of classical symmetry with its characteristic oblique square form on four sides was built at the end of the 17th century by the famous master builder Jules Hardouin-Mansart. A column in the style of a Roman Trojan column stands in the middle of the square, and at its crown Napoleon is depicted as a Roman emperor. The square is also renowned throughout the world as the seat of the best-known jewellers and the famous Hôtel Ritz, which benefits from the location’s extraordinary atmosphere. 1st arr. | M 3, 7, 8: Opéra
‘Sight jogging’ is the new concept ideal for anyone who wants to kill two birds with one stone: athletic activity and cultural input. A coach will personally pick you up from your hotel, or meet you at a pre-arranged location. You will be guided by experienced marathon runners, who not only adapt to your speed and motivate you, but also explain the sights along the way in either English or French. Most of the tours last one hour and have – according to speed – a distance of 4 to 8 miles. Tel. 06 30 86 41 70 | www.parisrunningtour.com
This district begins right behind the world renowned cultural centre, the Centre Georges Pompidou, and has also been the district for the Jewish population since the beginning of the 12th century. The Shoah Memorial (www.memorialdelashoha.org) as well as a Jewish museum of art and history (www.mahj.org) are both located in Marais and document the Jews’ turbulent fate in France. On Friday evenings there is always a hub of activity between the kosher shops and the few remaining synagogues. ‘Pletzl’ on the Rue Rosier has long been a gathering place for Jews from throughout Europe. There, small shops and restaurants are increasingly being replaced by trendy, up-markete stores.
Marais is not only a fashionable district but also the quartier of the gay community. Stores for men’s cosmetics are interspersed with fancy women’s clothing stores, jewellers, galleries and cafés, where there is always something going on. The district’s architecture is imposing with its many aristocratic residences, some of which house museums today. The Place des Vosges, a former royal square, is one of the most beautiful in Paris. Buskers play here year round and the quality is often impressive.
The centre of Paris’ nightlife, just a short walk to the east of here, pulsates with activity until early morning in the shadow of the Opéra Bastille, around the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, as well as further north in the vicinity of the Rue Oberkampf.
CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOUStreet Atlas [139 E4] | Google Map
The fourth and fifth levels of this futuristic tubular structure give you a comprehensive overview of 20th-century art. The interdisciplinary approach to graphic art, architecture, design and new media is fascinating. A true-to-life replica of the studio of the famous sculptor, Constantin Brancusi, is situated on the forecourt outside the building. On the sixth level, temporary exhibits of works by world renowned artists are held. The phenomenal view of Paris alone is worth a visit, which you can also admire from the designer café Le George. Next to the Centre is the fountain comprising water spraying sculptures by Niki de Saint Phalle and Jean Tinguely in a tribute to the ballet ‘Le Sacre du Printemps’ by Igor Stravinsky, characterised by its colourful figures and technical contraptions – a meeting place for the younger crowd. Wed–Mon 11.00am–9pm (Thu to 11pm, Atelier Brancusi 2pm–6pm) | admission 12 euros | Place Georges-Pompidou | 4th arr. | M 11: Rambuteau | www.centrepompidou.fr
An artistic event both inside and out: the Centre Georges Pompidou |
Street Atlas [139 E5] | Google Map
After an incendiary attack in 1882, the city hall was rebuilt in the Renaissance Revival style. Its façade features sculptures of over one hundred Parisian personalities. During the Middle Ages, the formerly centrally located square in front of the building extended to the jetty of the Seine. At one time it was a venue for folk festivals and executions; today, by contrast, demonstrations are held here and it is also the site of a floodlit artificial skating rink in winter. Mon–Fri | free admission | tel. (registration required): 01 42 76 50 49 | 4th arr. | M 1, 11: Hôtel de Ville
Street Atlas [140 B6] | Google Map
The writer Victor Hugo lived and worked here between 1832 and 1848. Some of the rooms have an Asian influence. Here, you not only have a wonderful view of the Place des Vosges, but you can also marvel at the poet’s documents, objects and paintings, which reveal he was also a very good painter – he left numerous paintings and around 3,000 drawings. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm | free admission | 6, pl. des Vosges | 4th arr. | M 1: Saint-Paul | www.musee-hugo.paris.fr
Where Victor Hugo began writing his masterpiece, ‘Les Misérables’ |
Street Atlas [139 F4] | Google Map
Situated at the centre of the Jewish quarter in Paris, this museum recounts the history of the Jewish community in Europe – particular in France – by means of numerous documents and handcrafted objects from the Middle Ages up to the 20th century, as well as archives documenting the Dreyfus Affair. Mon–Fri 11am–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm | admission 6.80 euros | 71, rue du Temple | 3th arr. | M 1: Hôtel de Ville, M 11: Rambuteau | www.mahj.org
Street Atlas [140 A5] | Google Map
In the opulent city palace dating back to 1548, only a few feet from the Place des Vosges, the tumultuous history of Paris from Roman times until today unfolds. A model shows the huge incissions made by Baron Haussmann into the urban fabric. Numerous paintings as well as objects (i.e. garments worn by revolutionaries and models of the guillotine) document milestones in the city’s development. The room where Marcel Proust wrote ‘Remembrance of Things Past’ is also worth seeing. The museum also has temporary exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm | free admission | 23, rue de Sévigné | 4th arr. | M 1: Saint-Paul
Street Atlas [140 A5] | Google Map
The Hôtel Salé accommodates what is probably the most comprehensive collection of works by the great master. It is currently undergoing extensive renovation and will reopen at the beginning of 2013. 5, rue de Thorigny | 3rd arr. | M 8: Chemin Vert | www.musee-picasso.fr
Street Atlas [146 B1] | Google Map
The silvery façade of glass, steel and granite on the Place de la Bastille is hard to miss. The former President François Mitterrand commissioned the Canadian architect Carlos Ott to construct a new opera house which was completed in 1989. Even if you do not want to attend any of the opera or ballet performances, it is still worth the 1½-hour tour. Mon–Fri after making arrangements by phone: tel. 01 40 01 19 70 | 11 euros | Place de la Bastille | 12th arr. | M 1, 5, 8: Bastille | www.operadeparis.fr
Bastille: a venue where people now clamour to see opera and not prisoners |
| 8 | | PLACE DU MARCHÉ SAINTE-CATHÉRINE |
Street Atlas [140 A5–6] | Google Map
The cafés and shady trees of this quiet location in Marais will carry you off to a tranquil marketplace in a provincial town in the South of France, especially in summer. 4th arr. | M 1: Saint-Paul
PLACE DES VOSGESStreet Atlas [140 A–B 5–6] | Google Map
The square inaugurated as a Place Royale in 1612 under the rule of King Henry IV is not only one of the oldest, but also one of the most architecturally harmonious spaces in the city. The 36 pavilions (those for the king and queen are slightly higher) are framed by arcades where elegant art galleries and restaurants are now housed. Above these, the symmetrically arranged façades with their composition of light natural stone, red brick facing and grey slated roofs create a perfect picture. The uniformity of the ensemble is best appreciated from a small park situated in the centre of the square. 4th arr. | M 1: Saint-Paul, M 1, 5, 8: Bastille
Île de la Cité is the heart of Paris where – as early as in Roman times – the first inhabitants settled: the Parisii.This is also where the Gothic architectural masterpiece, the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame, is located. The fortified towers of the Conciergerie and the wonderfully light Sainte-Chapelle round off the medieval appearance of this vibrant area. On the neighbouring Île Saint-Louis, the city’s most expensive district, the pace is slightly more relaxed. This small island, which was long uninhabited, is now the most prestigious areas of Paris. The most lively road by far is the Rue St. Louis, which has more ice cream shops than anywhere else in the city. In the summer, queues form from one to the next. The best place to enjoy your ice cream, however, is at the Pont Saint Louis, which connects both islands and where street musicians give their finest performances.
While the rive droite is traditionally more bourgeois, the Quartier Latin and Saint-Germain-des-Prés on the left bank of the Seine, the rive gauche, have long been the centres of intellectual life. Existentialists congregated in cafés in the 1950s. Today these areas are frequented predominantly by tourists and employees of the surrounding publishing houses and booksellers. The Quarter Latin (where Latin was once spoken) has housed the most famous educational institutions of the nation since the 13th century. In addition, the area has cafés and bistros as well as one of the most popular parks in Paris, the Jardin du Luxembourg.
Street Atlas [139 D5–6] | Google Map
The ‘antechamber to the guillotine’ – as this former prison is rather grimly known – is an imposing structure on the Île de la Cité that chronicles a tragic episode in French history. The most prominent among the more than 2,000 inmates who faced their execution here were Marie Antoinette (her cell has now been reconstructed) as well as the revolutionaries Georges Danton and Maximilien de Robespierre. The picturesque building with its rounded towers was originally a palace of the Capetian ruling dynasty from the 10th century. The Salle des Gens d’Armes is considered one of the most impressive examples of Gothic profane architecture. Its name is derived from the word concierge, or chamberlain, who was accorded great power from approx. 1300. Daily, except Fri, Mar–Oct 9.30am–6pm, Nov–Feb 9am–5pm | 7 euros (incl. Sainte-Chapelle 11 euros) | 1, quai de l’Horloge | 1st arr. | M 4: Cité | www.conciergerie.monuments-nationaux.fr
Street Atlas [145 F2] | Google Map
The striking glass and aluminium façades, a successful paradigm of modern architecture by Jean Nouvel, follows the curve of the Seine. A gimmicky feature of the institute are the photography slats on the south side which open and close according to the fall of light. To promote the cultural exchange between the European and Islamic world, 20 Arab nations present forums, films and exhibitions, and there is also an extensive library. The restaurant, Le Ziryab, provides a spectacular view over the roofs of Paris. Thu–Sun 10am–6pm | admission 6 euros | 1, rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard | 5th arr. | M 7, 10: Jussieu | www.imarabe.org
JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG 
Street Atlas [144 B–C2] | Google Map
The most famous park in the centre of Paris, in close proximity to the Sorbonne. You can watch children navigating the large pond in small boots from one of the available chairs. Maria de’ Medici had the park and palace constructed at the beginning of the 17th century as an imitation of her native Florence. The Palais du Luxembourg is the headquarters of the French Senate today. The adjacent Musée du Luxembourg often has exceptional exhibitions. Park: in summer 7am to 1 hour before sunset, in winter from 8am | 6th arr. | RER B: Luxembourg
Street Atlas [145 D1] | Google Map
The late Gothic city palace for the Abbots of Cluny next to the Roman spas from the 3rd century provides the ideal setting for this display of medieval art. Apart from illuminated manuscripts, furniture, crafted pieces and ancient sculptures, the stained-glass windows and wall tapestries are especially stunning. The round salon featuring six wall tapestries of the ’Lady with the Unicorn’ (15th century) is a highlight. While the first five tapestries are allegories of the five senses, the meaning of the sixth is a mystery which holds every visitor under its spell. Wed–Mon 9.15am–5.45pm | admission 8 euros | 6, pl. Paul Painlevé | 5th arr. | M 10: Cluny-La Sorbonne | www.musee-moyenage.fr
NOTRE-DAMEStreet Atlas [139 E6] | Google Map
This Gothic masterpiece was built between 1163 and 1345 at the instigation of Bishop Maurice de Sully. A Roman temple once stood on the square 2,000 years before. The interior of the five-aisled nave can accommodate 9,000 people. The three large entrance portals, the massive buttresses around the choir and the rose windows with a diameter of over 32 feet are especially impressive.
Many historically significant events have taken place here, including Napoleon’s coronation. During the revolution Notre-Dame was transformed into a ‘Temple of Reason’, since the Church seemed to be deteriorating. In his book ‘The Hunchback Notre-Dame’ Victor Hugo successfully appealed to the public to stop tolerating the situation, and the cathedral was restored as a result. The tower provides a good view of the gargoyles as well as the city. In the forecourt there is a special marking from which distances to other French cities can be measured. Mon–Fri 8am–6.45pm, Sat/Sun 8am–7.15pm | free admission | tower: April–Sept daily 10am–6.30pm, Oct–March daily 10am–5.30pm | 8 euros (Oct–March free admission on the first Sunday of each month) | Île de la Cité | 4th arr. | M 4: Saint-Michel, RER B, C: Saint-Michel-Notre Dame | www.notredamedeparis.fr
Notre-Dame: mythical creatures as figurative decoration high above the cathedral tower |
Street Atlas [145 D2] | Google Map
This massive domed structure can be seen from a distance on the hill of Sainte-Genovève. Louis XV had the edifice constructed in 1756 by his master builder Jacques-Germain Soufflot as the fulfillment of a vow to Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris. Shortly after the Revolution the church was presented with the mortal remains of French luminaries such as Voltaire and Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Since Victor Hugo’s body was transferred to the Panthéon in 1885, this building – that is still occasionally used as a place of worship – was finally considered a mausoleum. You can also scale the stairs to the dome from which the physicist Léon Foucault conducted his famous pendulum experiment demonstrating the earth’s rotational axis. April–Sept daily 10am–6.30pm, Oct–March daily 10am–6pm | 8 euros (Oct–March free the first Sunday of the month) | Place du Panthéon | 5th arr. | M 10: Cardinal Lemoine, RER B: Luxembourg | www.pantheon.monuments-nationaux.fr
Street Atlas [139 D5] | Google Map
The ‘new’ bridge that crosses the top of the Île de la Cité, is in fact the city’s oldest existing bridge in the city. When Henry IV, whose equestrian statue can be found on the structure, inaugurated the bridge in 1607 it was considered highly modern. For the first time in Paris, the view from a bridge of the Seine was unobstructed. It is the most famous crossing point on the Seine – often sung about, the object of countless paintings and the backdrop for many films. The square beneath the equestrian statue provides a magnificent view of the Louvre. 1./6th arr. | M 7: Pont Neuf
Street Atlas [145 E2–4] | Google Map
This little street has wound its way down the vibrant Montagne Sainte-Geneviève since Roman times. Students from schools in the area, tourists and locals treasure the narrow street with its daily, well-stocked markets at the lower end, as well as its small bars and boutiques. The scenic Place de la Contrescarp with its lovely cafés is located at the upper end of the ‘Mouff’. 5th arr. | M 7: Place Monge
Street Atlas [139 D6] | Google Map
This veritable treasure chest of Gothic architecture lies virtually hidden in the courtyard of the central law courts on the Île de la Cité. The 13th-century church houses valuable relics from the Holy Land. The effect of the massive stained glass windows reaching for the heavens, held together only by filigree buttresses that bathe the entire room in a pale blue light is breathtaking. The upper floor is the actual chapel and was at one time reserved for the king. March–Oct daily. 9.30am–6pm, Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm | 8 euros (incl. Conciergerie 11 euros) | 4, bd. du Palais | 1st arr. | M 4: Saint-Michel, Cité | www.sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr
Street Atlas [138 C6] | Google Map
Though the church is a part of the once powerful Benedictine abbey from the 8th century, only the bell tower remains. This is where the Bible was translated into French for the first time, and is the burial place of the philosopher René Descartes. Mon 12.30am–7.45pm, Tue–Sun 8am–7.45pm | 3, pl. Saint-Germain-des-Prés | 6th arr. | M 4: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Street Atlas [144 C1] | Google Map
This 17th-century church with its two elegant rows of pillars is situated on a lively square with a Roman fountain. The paintings by Eugène Delacroix in the first chapel on the right are equally remarkable. Daily 8am–7.30pm | 2, rue Palatine | 6th arr. | M 4: Saint-Sulpice
On Paris – Ernest Hemingway describes his sojourn in Paris during the Roaring Twenties. Follow his footsteps to restaurants such as Closerie des Lilas.
Hunting and Gathering – Anna Gavalda describes crazy communal living at the base of the Eiffel tower in her novel published in 2005. Two years later it was made into a film directed by Claude Berri.
The Greater Journey: Americans in Paris – David McCollough’s story of adventurous American artists, writers, doctors, politicians, architects, and others of high aspiration who set off for Paris between 1830 and 1900, ambitious to excel in their work, is both enthralling and inspiring.
Hotel du Nord – The classic work of poetic Realism by Marcel Carné (1938) takes place on the Canal Saint-Martin, which has once again become trendy.
Ratatouille – The highly acclaimed animated film by Brad Bird about a rat turned cooking genius who took the culinary world by storm, was awarded an Oscar in 2008.
La Vie en Rose – A portrayal of the tragic life of the iconic Edith Piaf directed by Oliver Dahan in 2007.
Paris, je t’aime – A declaration of love to the city from 2006 according to 21 well-known filmmakers in the form of 18 short films and set in as many arrondissements.
Street Atlas [140–141 C–D 1–2] | Google Map
In contrast to the affluent West part of the city, the Belleville district has retained its folksy character to a large extent. Workers, civil servants and immigrants predominantly live here. The district has an authentic neighbourly feeling without the tourists, particularly the Musette area where Edith Piaf grew up; the small Musée Edith Piaf displays various aspects of her life (Mon–Wed 1pm–6pm, Thu 10am–noon / only after prior reservation by phone: tel. 01 43 55 52 72 | free admission | 5, rue Crespin du Gast). Ever since artists discovered the charm and relatively low prices of the area, Bellevue has also become fashionable. Enjoy a beautiful view over Paris and the alleyways winding up the incline of Belvedere on the upper half of the newly landscaped Bellevue park. 20th arr. | M 2, 11: Belleville
Street Atlas [146 C5] | Google Map
A Grand Projet by the architect Dominique Perrault from the Mitterrand era: a quartet of massive high-rises in the form of open books surrounding a small grove. Although aesthetically impressive upon first glance, the ‘Très Grande Bibliothèque’, completed in 1996, has numerous operational flaws, not least of which is that the books stored in the glass towers were exposed to too much sunlight, necessitating a prohibitively expensive Venetian blind system. Tue–Sat 10am–7pm, Sun 1pm–7pm | admission 3 euros, special exhibits 7 euros | Quai François Mauriac | 13th arr. | M 14/RER C: Bibliothèque François Mitterrand | www.bnf.fr
Off to the studios, exhibitions, and reading halls: the East entrance of the National Library |
Street Atlas [128–129 B–E6] | Google Map
The large green lung to the west of Paris covering an area of over 3 square miles was the fashionable recreational meeting place at the beginning of the 20th century. The many hiking, riding and bicycle trails as well as small lakes, two horse-racing tracks and diverse restaurants are located in the park and its forests that have sadly been dissected by the many surrounding roads. In the 18th century the nobility allowed the construction of small summer residences. One of the most popular is the small castle of Bagatelle in the Parc de Bagatelle (admission 3 euros) which is beautifully manicured and intersected by streams and whose rose garden is a delight for flower lovers. The nearby Jardin d’Acclimatation (admission 2.90 euros | see p. 108) is a children’s paradise without over-hyped attractions, and is also fun for grown-ups. There are two bicycle rental agencies and rowing boat for hire at the Lac Inférieur. M 1: Les Sablons
Bois de Boulogne also has large waterfalls |
Street Atlas [144 B5] | Google Map
Stone was extracted from underground quarries and used for Paris’ buildings. The over 185-mile-long network of passageways, which some Parisians use for illegal parties, is partially open for tours. Since Parisian cemeteries were overcrowded until the 18th century, the bones of previous generations were decoratively piled up in these catacombs. Tue–Sun 10am–4pm | 8 euros | start of tour: 1, pl. Denfert-Rochereau | 14th arr. | M 4, 6/RER B: Denfert-Rochereau | www.catacombes-de-paris.fr
Street Atlas [132 B3–4] | Google Map
A number of artists and literati including Hector Berlioz, Heinrich Heine, Alexandre Dumas, Edgar Degas, Jacques Offenbach, François Truffaut, Emile Zola and Stendhal found their final resting place in this picturesque cemetery. Daily 8am–5.30pm | av. Rachel | 18th arr. | M 2: Blanche, M 13: La Fourche
Street Atlas [141 E–F 4–5] | Google Map
With an area of 110 acres, 12,000 trees and 1.5 million graves and ostentatious tombs, this cemetery is certainly the most spectacular in Paris. Regular pilgrimages are made predominantly to the graves of the Doors lead singer Jim Morrison as well as Edith Piaf. Yves Montand, Baron Haussmann, Honoré de Balzac, Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde, Frédéric Chopin and Molière are also buried here. Daily 8.30am–5pm | 16, rue du Repos | 20th arr. | M 2, 3: Père Lachaise
Very imaginatively designed tombs in the Père Lachaise cemetery |
Europe’s largest office district characterised by its many high-rises was established in the 1950s and ‘60s and significantly expanded in the 1980s and ‘90s. The most striking building from this period is the Grande Arche by the Danish architect Otto von Spreckelsen. Glass elevators transport you to the viewing platform in the arch which is clad in glass and Carrara marble and under which there would easily be sufficient space for the Notre-Dame. There is a wonderful view of the long axis in the direction of the Arc de Triomphe from above, as well as the nearby futuristic skyscrapers of La Défense and their glass façades. April–Sept daily 10–8pm, Oct–March daily 10am–7pm | 10 euros |M 1/RER A: La Défense | www.grandearche.com
Street Atlas [144 A–B 3–4] | Google Map
The Tour Montparnasse skyscraper that towers above everything else can only really be appreciated when standing on its viewing terrace, the highest in Paris (April–Sept 9.30am–11.30pm | Oct. to March 9.30am–10.30pm | 10.50 euros). If you take a stroll through this area of ugly buildings from the 1960s, you will occasionally come across idyllic, landscaped courtyards and studios, in which great artists worked and which are still used by artists today. Renowned artists such as Pablo Picasso, Amedeo Modigliani, Marc Chagall and Henri Matisse worked in the Chemin du Montparnasse on the Avenue du Maine after World War I. The places they frequented, namely La Coupole, Closerie des Lilas, Le Dôme or La Rotonde are still favourite meeting places. Lenin und Leo Trotsky held political meetings in La Rotonde which were regularly interrupted by the police. Prominent literary figures such as Samuel Beckett, Charles Baudelaire, Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir are buried at the Cimetière du Montparnasse. 19th arr. | M 4, 6, 12, 13: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe, M 6: Edgar Quinet
| MUSÉE MARMOTTAN |
Street Atlas [150 C4] | Google Map
The painting that gave Impressionism its name, ‘Impression Soleil Levant’, hangs next to a hundred other masterpieces by Claude Monet (1840–1926) on the lower level of the opulent villa near the Bois de Boulogne. Precious biblical paintings as well as paintings from Monet’s private collection (including Edgar Degas, Edouard Manet, Auguste Renoir) hang in the upper living area. A must for every lover of Impressionist painting! Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (Thu to 8.00pm) | admission 10 euros | 2, rue Louis Boilly | 16th arr. | M 9: La Muette | www.marmottan.com
Street Atlas [134–135 C–E 5–6] | Google Map
In the 19th century Napoleon III had a picturesque landscaped park laid out in the English style with grottoes, rock formations, valleys, shrines and waterfalls on a waste tip in the then-notorious eastern part of Paris. With the help of the most modern technology of the day and a lot of explosives, the terraced grounds were created to a variety of different designs (including one with a lake and an island) and planted with unusual vegetation. 19th arr. | M 7b: Buttes-Chaumont
Street Atlas [133 D4] | Google Map
There is hardly a trace of the former village-like calm here. Instead, the area has been taken over by droves of tourists clamouring for their portrait rendered by artists of varying talent. The cafés that border the square are ideal for reminiscing about the era when luminaries still whiled away their time here. M 12: Abesses
Street Atlas [133 D4] | Google Map
The dazzling white basilica rising high above the city on Montmartre seems almost surreal, and cynics claim the domes look as if a confectioner has been having fun. The interior has a stunning giant golden Byzantine-style mosaic. The edifice was built as a national monument after France’s defeat by Germany in the war of 1870–71. In 1919 the pilgrimage church was dedicated to the ‘Sacred Heart of Jesus’. Today, thousands make the pilgrimage up the many steps and enjoy the impressive view over Paris from the church’s forecourt. A more comfortable option for making the ascent is a small mountain railway. Daily 6am–11pm | 35, rue du Chevalier de la Barre | 8th arr. | M 2: Anvers
Street Atlas [150 C2] | Google Map
Stunning, early Gothic pillared basilica (started in 1135) which became the prototype for this architectural style in France. A visit to the royal tombs is one of the highlights of any tour of this church located in the Paris suburb Saint-Denis. Nearly every ruler of the nation for many centuries is buried here. There are 75 monumental tombs in the crypt, each guarded by life-sized statues of the deceased. The first church was built on this site in the 5th century, after the martyr Denis allegedly walked up Montmartre with his severed head. Summer daily 10am–6pm, winter daily 10am–5pm | tombs: 7 euros | M 13: Basilique de Saint-Denis | www.saint-denis.monume-nts-nationaux.fr
Street Atlas [150 A3] | Google Map
Excursions to the old royal city Saint-Germain-en-Laye were already popular among Parisians in the 19th century. This was not only on account of the convenient connection to the nation’s first railway system which was constructed in 1837. French royalty resided in the town of 40,000 inhabitants until the end of the 17th century. The landscape architects of Versailles laid out a beautiful park around the fortress-like, pentagonal palace with an over mile-long terrace high above the Seine.
Saint-Germain has retained the flair of a pleasant provincial town. The old town’s streets and pedestrianised lanes with the beautiful palaces of the nobility and the large forest are ideal for a stroll and make an unforgettable outing. In addition, many shops are open on Sunday morning.
The tourist office is situated in the house where the composer Claude Debussy was born. The studio of the Symbolist painter Maurice Denis is worth a visit where works by Paul Gauguin and Pierre Bonnard are also exhibited. Office de Tourisme de Saint-Germain-en-Laye | 38, rue Au-Pain |www.saintgermainenlaye.fr Saint-Germain-en-Laye from Charles de Gaulle-Etoile is 25 minutes way via RER A.
VERSAILLESA Paris stay is not complete without a visit to Louis XIV’s gigantic palace. There is virtually nowhere else where the power of the monarch is so resolute and impressive, yet tastefully and harmoniously implemented as in Versailles. The absolutist and centralist concept of a nation was personified by the ‘Sun King’, Louis XIV (1638–1715). At the behest of the king nearly all of France’s nobility resided here, which meant that as many as 20,000 people had to be provided for as well as entertained with lavish celebrations.
Absolute must-sees during the tour of the palace are the royal chapel, the opéra and the state rooms on the first floor, the walls of which are finished in marble and decorated with gold brocade. Don’t miss the 245-foot-long Hall of Mirrors, whose 17 windows cast light onto the mirrors opposite. Due to the lengthy queues, a morning or afternoon visit is recommended, the latter having the added advantage of reduced admission after 3pm.
The highlights in the park – now encompassing only 1,976 acres as opposed to the original 37 square miles – apart from the bassins where you can take a boat ride – are the small palaces, the Grand and Petit Trianon. The newly designed Domaine de Marie-Antoinette et Grand Trianon includes grottoes, temples of love and streams in the pretty ‘English garden’ as well as Le Hameau, the idealised replica of a village farm complete with a water course. If you prefer not to walk, you can cycle, take a tourist train or a boat.
Palace: April–Oct Tue–Sun 9am–6.30pm, Nov–March Tue–Sun 9am–5.30pm |15 euros, after 3pm 13 euros. Domaine de Marie-Antoinette et Grand Trianon: April–Oct Tue–Sun noon–7pm, 10 euros | Nov–March Tue–Sun noon–5.30pm, 6 euros. Park: April–Oct daily 7am–8.30pm | Nov–March daily 8am–6pm | free except Sat/Sun March–Oct: 8 euros. Grandes Eaux Musicales (fountain display with classical music): daily 11am–noon and 3pm–5.30pm | 8 euros. Complete ‘Passport Sésame’ package 20 euros, Nov–March 16 euros. Advanced tickets can also be obtained on the Internet: www.chateauversailles.fr. and at Fnac: tel. 08 92 68 46 94 | www.fnac.com
The easiest and quickest way to reach Versailles from Paris is on the suburban train RER C (Versailles-Rive Gauche), which takes around 30 minutes. It is only a short walk from the railway station. Trains to Versailles-Rive Droite (then bus marked Phébus) travel every 15 minutes from the Gare Saint-Lazare and from the Gare Montparnasse (direction Chartres) to Versailles-Chantier (then bus marked Phébus). Bus route 171 goes from the Métro station Pont de Sévres (M 9) to the palace. Count on spending at least a day at Versailles, wear comfortable footwear and don’t forget to bring provisions.
France’s most famous palace and World Heritage Site: Versailles |
Every Sunday at 4.30pm a free organ concert is held in Notre-Dame Street Atlas [139 E6]. www.cathedraledeparis.com
Under www.paris.fr/musees/ you’ll find information on museums offering free admission, among which are the Musée Carnavalet, the Maison de Victor Hugo, the perfume museum Fragonard, the Musée de la Vie Romantique and the Musée d’Art Moderne.
Lovers of modern architecture are advised to take a special bus trip to La Défense (see p. 56) and the free museum dedicated to its construction history: under www.ratp.fr/de/ratp/r_28130/archi-bus select bus line Archi-Bus and download brochures for each of the 15 structures described for all eight suggested bus lines. The informative bus tour costs the same as normal bus fare: 1.70 euros.