MARCO POLO Paris

If you want to discover the multifaceted gastronomy of France for yourself, you ought to know the fundamental aspects of French eating habits beforehand.

Breakfast (petit déjeuner) in France is modest by the standards of many other nations, but rightfully so: you’ll need room for the much more substantial lunch (déjeuner), that usually lasts for two hours and is only half as costly as dinner (diner).

Most restaurants do not open for dinner in the evening before 8pm. After an apéritif (kir, champagne or a pastis) to wrap up your day, enjoy an amuse-gueule (a bite-sized starter), that will palatably match the meal ahead. You’ll then be faced with the important decision whether to order à la carte (from the menu) or table d’hôte (a set meal). With the former you have more selection, but will have to dig deeper into your pockets. Fortunately, people are no longer expected to opt for three or four courses, though it is customary to order a starter (hors d’œuvre) and a main course, or a main course and a dessert.

A set meal traditionally consists of an appetiser (entrée), main course (plat) – usually meat (viande) or fish (poisson), cheese (fromage) and dessert. Dessert and cheese are frequently offered as an alternative. Tap water (eau en carafe) and bread (pain) are automatically provided with your meal. A café or déca (decaffeinated coffee) should not be forgotten.

An extensive wine list is the sign of a good restaurant. Wine (vin) is only served during a meal, never after. A tip (pourboire) of 5–10 percent is de rigueur.

BRASSERIES

Brasseries are very much part of the Paris scene. As opposed to a small, cosy bistro with a modest menu, brasseries are fairly large restaurants which sprang up at the turn of the 20th century and served hearty fare in addition to seafood specialities. Many brasseries hold the distinction as a protected historical site with their glamorous Belle-Époque décor. Though the food is not exactly cheap in these restaurants, it is still relatively affordable (Moderate).

BOFINGER

BRASSERIE LIPP

LA COUPOLE

An Art Deco temple where those working in the film industry and other colourful characters congregate. In the 1920s, artists such as Marc Chagall, Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dalí also met up here. The 33 columns in this, the largest brasserie in Paris, which operates as a café during the day, have been painted by artists. Daily | 102, bd. du Montparnasse | 14th arr. | tel. 01 43 20 14 20 | M 4: Vavin | www.flobrasseries.com

JULIEN

The exuberant display of Art Deco maidens encircled by flowers and the huge mirrors in this restaurant steeped in tradition are a feast for the eyes. Daily | 16, rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis | 10th arr. | tel. 01 47 70 12 06 | M 4, 8, 9: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis | www.julienparis.com

CAFÉS

ANGÉLINA

Classics from one of the most sophisticated cafés in the city are the hot chocolate and the ‘Montblanc’, a sumptuous half scoop of meringue and chestnut purée. Daily | 226, rue de Rivoli | 1st arr. | tel. 01 42 60 82 00 | www.angelina-paris.fr | M 1: Tuileries

CAFÉ DE FLORE

An institution and meeting place for artists, literary figures and intellectuals since Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre and Albert Camus were regulars here. It still remains – understandably – the place to see and be seen by the ‘in’-crowd today. Daily | 172, bd. Saint-Germain | 6th arr. | tel. 01 45 48 55 26 | M 4: Saint-Germain-des-Prés | www.cafedeflore.fr

LADURÉE

Ostentatious salon de thé from the 19th century with richly painted ceiling frescoes. Especially famed for its marvellous chestnut biscuits, offered in every conceivable colour and flavour, which can also be taken home, like many of the other delectable creations. Daily | 16, rue Royale | 8th arr. | tel. 01 42 60 21 79 | M 8, 12, 14: Madeleine | www.laduree.fr

LES DEUX MAGOTS

This ‘café littéraire’, according to its justifiable self-promotion, is at least as famous as the neighbouring Café de Flore, where Ernest Hemingway came to drink whiskey. The café is named after the two Chinese porcelain figures at the entrance. It is a special treat to sit on the terrace facing Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Daily | 6, pl. Saint-Germain-des-Prés | 6th arr. | tel. 01 45 48 55 25 | M 4: Saint-Germain-des-Prés | www.lesdeuxmagots.fr

MARIAGE FRÈRES

Tea salon decorated in the elegant Colonial style, with a range of produce that is unsurpassed. Accessories and exquisite baked goods complement the experience. Other dishes such as quiche Lorraine and salad are also available. Daily | 260, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré | 8th arr. | tel. 01 46 22 18 54 | M 2: Ternes | www.mariagefreres.fr

LA PALETTE

A terrace café close to the art academy that is lively both at lunchtime and in the evening. A fin-de-siècle masterpiece. Closed Sun | 43, rue de Seine | 6th arr. | tel. 01 43 29 09 42 | M 4: Saint-Germain-des-Prés

RESTAURANTS: EXPENSVIE

BEL CANTO

A unique restaurant: exquisite Italian cuisine served against a backdrop of trained opera singers accompanied by piano arias from Verdi, Puccini and others. A dining experience based on the motto ‘les diners lyriques’. Daily (evenings only) | 72, quai de l’Hôtel de Ville | 4th arr. | tel. 01 42 78 30 18 | M 1, 11: Hôtel de Ville | www.lebelcanto.com

LE BÉLIER

This illustrious restaurant evokes the paintings of the Dutch painter Jan Vermeer. The star designer Jacques Garcia has transformed this intimate restaurant in the elegant L’Hôtel into a real gem. The comfortable armchairs and unobtrusive classical music in the background make it easy to understand why writer and aesthete Oscar Wilde spent the last days of his life here. Considering the atmosphere and history, lunches are quite affordable. Daily (Aug closed Sun/Mon) | 13, rue des Beaux Arts | 6th arr. | tel. 01 44 41 99 00 | M 4: Saint-Germain-des-Prés | www.l-hotel.com

CITRUS ETOILE

Excellent cuisine – classical French dishes with a modern interpretation including Asian and Californian influences – originate from Gilles Epié’s kitchen. Comfortably discreet atmosphere and only a few yards from the Arc de Triomphe. Sat/Sun for private functions only | 6, rue Arséne Houssaye | 8th arr. | tel. 01 42 89 15 51 | M 1, 2, 6, RER A: Etoile | www.citrusetoile.fr

HIRAMATSU

Critics are excited about the ‘Japanese Alain Ducasse’. Hiroyuki Hiromatsu, the cuisiniere-en-chef from the Far East, conjures up classic French dishes in his unique way for restaurant guests. Absolutely delicious! Closed Sat/Sun | 52, rue de Longchamp | 16th arr. | tel. 01 56 81 08 80 | M 6, 9: Trocadéro | www.hitramatsu.co.jp/fr/

LES OMBRES

You will not find a more spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower than through the glass roof of this restaurant at the Musée du Quai Branly. In the summer you can enjoy the meals imaginatively prepared by Arnaud Busquets and the exquisite atmosphere from the terrace. Daily | 27, quai Branly | 7th arr. | tel. 01 47 53 68 00 | M 9: Iéna | www.lesombresrestaurant.com

SENDERENS

You no longer need to spend a small fortune to savour the meals created by Alain Senderens, one of the city’s most lauded cuisiniers. The former head chef at Lucas Carton relinquished his three Michelin stars and opened an outstanding brassiere-style restaurant. Daily | 9, pl. de la Madeleine | 8th arr. | tel. 01 42 65 22 90 | M 8, 12, 14: Madeleine | www.senderens.fr

LE TRAIN BLEU

Without a doubt the most exquisite station restaurant in the world. The 20-foot-high ceilings are reminiscent of a dining hall at Versailles. Should you find prices for the classic French cuisine too prohibitive, opt for a cocktail and enjoy the glorious atmosphere in one of the comfortable leather armchairs in the bar. Daily | Gare de Lyon | 1st floor | 12th arr. | tel. 01 43 43 09 06 | M 1, 14/RER A, D: Gare de Lyon | www.le-train-bleu.com

L’Abeille

Street Atlas [136 B3] | Google Map

Dine in style worthy of Napoleon. More accurately, Prince Roland Bonaparte, since this was at one time his nephew’s residence. Michelin star chef Phillip Labbé bewitches with his menu dégustation (210 euros) of select delicacies such as spring lamb, blue lobster or foie gras in chocolate. Closed Sun/Mon | Hotel Shangri-La | 10, av. d’Iena (16th arr.) | tel. 01 53 67 19 90 | M 9: Iena

Les Ambassadeurs

Street Atlas [137 F3] | Google Map

Le Grand Véfour

Street Atlas [138 C3] | Google Map

The lavishly gilded décor in the Palais Royal is the perfect environment for first-class cuisine. Set menu from 268 euros. ClosedSat/Sun (open on Fri only for lunch, closed Aug) | 17, rue Beaujolais | 1st arr. | tel. 01 42 96 56 27 | M 1, 7: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre | www.grand-vefour.com

Jules Verne

Street Atlas [136 B5] | Google Map

Where you can savour Alain Ducasse’s exclusive cuisine and have Paris at your feet. The armchairs have wheels to help you enjoy the panoramic view. Set menu from 200 euros. Daily | lift on the 2nd floor of the Eiffel Tower (7th arr.) | tel. 01 45 55 61 44 | M 6: Bir Hakeim | www.lejulesverne-paris.com

Le Meurice

Street Atlas [138 B3] | Google Map

The chef cuisinier Yannick Alléno is a star in the gourmet scene. Gorgeous dining hall. Set menu from 220 euros. Closed Sat/Sun | 228, rue de Rivoli (1st arr.) | tel. 01 44 58 10 55 | M 1: Tuileries | www.lemeurice.com

Pierre Gagnaire

Street Atlas [138 D2] | Google Map

The restaurant decor where the three-star-chef Pierre Gagnaire holds court is not all that’s modern, his culinary creations are also incredibly innovative. Set menu from 235 euros. Closed Sat (Sun dinner only, in Aug lunch only) | Hotel Balzac | 6, rue Balzac | 8th arr. | tel. 01 58 36 12 50 | M 1: George V | www.pierre-gagnaire.com

Plaza Athénée

Street Atlas [137 D3] | Google Map

Original design from various architectural styles in the eponymous hotel. The chef Alain Ducasse is one of the culinary greats. Set menu from 360 euros. Closed Sat/Sun (Mon–Wed for dinner only, closed mid-July to mid-Aug) | av. Montaigne | 8th arr. | tel. 01 53 67 65 00 | M 1, 9: Franklin D. Roosevelt | www.alain-ducasse.com

RESTAURANTS: MODERATE

ALCAZAR

The meeting place for the jet set crowd bears Sir Terence Conran’s trademark. The bar on the upper floor boasts the best DJs in the city. The cuisine pulls out all the stops when it comes to classic French dishes according to the motto ‘back to tradition’. Daily | 62, rue Mazarine | 6th arr. | tel. 01 53 10 19 99 | M 4, 10: Odéon | www.alcazar.fr

CAFÉ MARLY

Chic restaurant with a stellar view of the Louvre from the terrace. Modern French cuisine, tasty noodle dishes. The establishment draws a young, international crowd, especially during Parisian fashion shows. Daily | Palais du Louvre | 93, rue de Rivoli | 11th arr. | tel. 01 49 26 06 60 | M 1, 7: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

This restaurant pays homage to the Auvergne. With the exception of the ice cream, everything on the menu originates from this region in central France. The hearty and succulent cuisine suits the rustic atmosphere and the small but attractive courtyard. You can even take items home from their deli, including cold meat, cheese and lentils. Daily (lunch only on Sun/Mon, dinner only on Sat and in Aug ) | 17, rue Laplace | 5th arr. | tel. 01 46 33 18 59 | M 10: Cardinal Lemoine | www.chantairelle.com

LE DOME DU MARAIS

Under the stylish glass dome and wintergarden-like hall the small number tables create an intimate, discreet and elegant dining experience. The French cuisine – sometimes classic, sometimes light – uses seasonal fresh ingredients. Closed Sun/Mon | 53 bis, rue des Francs-Bourgeois | 4th arr. | tel. 01 42 74 54 17 | M 1: Saint-Paul | www.ledomedumarais.fr

L’ESCARGOT MONTORGUEIL

A traditional restaurant established in 1832 in the Empire style. Luminaries such as Marcel Proust, Charlie Chaplin, Pablo Picasso and Jacqueline Kennedy have dined here. The entrance is decorated with a ceiling painting from the dining room of the famous actress Sarah Bernhardt, who was also a regular guest. The eponymous escargot, as well as first-class dishes from the former market hall that once stood next door, feature on the menu. Closed Sat lunch | 38, rue Montorgueil | 11th arr. | tel. 01 42 36 83 51 | M 4: Etienne Marcel | www.escargot-montorgueil.abcsalles.com

Located next to Notre-Dame, this is where the canons lived back in 1512. Today, the owners Odette and Georges de Larochebrochard cordially welcome their guests. Traditional French cuisine has been served here since 1750! The exuberantly plush furnishings with a Gothic touch create a romantic atmosphere; the set meal is substantial and not expensive by Parisian standards. Closed Sat and Mon lunch | 24, rue Chanoinesse | 4th arr. | tel. 01 40 51 78 52 | M 4: Cité | www.auvieuxparis.fr

LA GARE

Tables in this converted railway station have been cleverly placed under a skylight between the tracks that can still be seen. Light, international cuisine, good lunch menu (Mon–Fri). The bar and terrace in this chic district of Passy are à la mode. Occasional theme nights, Sun brunch until 3pm (35 euros), DJs at weekends. Daily | 19, ch. de la Muette | 16th arr. | tel. 01 42 15 15 31 | M 9: La Muette | www.restaurantlagare.com

MACEO

Innovative, contemporary restaurant with a large, light and comfortable dining area. Also serves vegetarian dishes. A small library and bar entice you to linger a little longer. Closed Sat and Sun afternoons | 15, rue des Petits-Champs | 1st arr. | tel. 01 42 97 53 85 | M 3: Bourse | www.maceorestaurant.com

LE MOULIN DE LA GALETTE

Legendary former mill building, transformed into a famous ballroom in 1830 which soon rose in popularity – and continues to be so today – immortalised by the famous painter, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. The comfortable, contemporarily designed restaurant has a small garden courtyard and excellent cuisine. Daily | 83, rue Lepic | 18th arr. | tel. 01 46 06 84 77 | www.lemoulindelagalette.fr | M 12: Abbesses

Guests have the feeling of being in a village in the South of France under a vaulted glass roof. Pleasant atmosphere, friendly service and tasty Provençal specialities. A reservation is necessary at this much-loved restaurant. Closed Tues | 91, bd. Gouvion Saint Cyr | 17th arr. | tel. 01 45 74 02 77 | M 1/RER C: Porte Maillot | www.lesud.fr

RESTAURANTS: BUDGET

BOUILLON RACINE

Gorgeous Art Nouveau ornamentation wind around two storeys of windows, mirrors and wood panelling in a pleasing shade of green. Even the mosaic floor has been meticulously restored in this former workers’ cafeteria. The cuisine with a Belgian touch is equally meticulously prepared. Daily | 3,rue Racine | 6th arr. | tel. 01 44 32 15 60 | M 10/RER B: Cluny-La Sorbonne | www.bouillon-racine.com

CAFÉ DE L’INDUSTRIE

The tavern atmosphere attracts a younger crowd to this Colonial-style restaurant. There are tasty daily specials which are also available not just at the usual meal times, and recommendations are displayed on boards mounted between black and white photographs. Daily | 16, rue Saint-Sabin | 11th arr. | tel. 01 47 00 13 53 | M 1, 5, 8: Bastille

The ideal place for romantic couples to eat: this two-hour cruise (9pm–11pm) past the islands in the Seine comes with a three-course menu for 49 euros. The boat has been lovingly restored by its owner, a musician – and there are occasional music performances. Make reservations well in advance! Daily | quai Malaquais/near Pont des Arts | 6th arr. | tel. 01 43 54 50 04 | M 1: Louvre-Rivoli | www.calife.com

CHEZ MARIANNE

This busy restaurant with a terrace and a delicatessen is located around the corner from the lively Rue des Rosiers at the centre of the Marais district. The very popular Middle Eastern appetiser platter is recommended. Reservations are a must. Daily | 2, rue des Hospitalières Saint-Gervais | 4th arr. | tel. 01 42 72 18 86 | M 1: Saint-Paul

CRÊPERIE DE PLOUGASTEL

Claimed to be one of the best crêperies in the city. The crêpes with caramel are particularly delectable, as are the savoury galettes made with buckwheat flour and filled with ham, mushrooms and smoked salmon. Daily | 47, rue Montparnasse | 14th arr. | tel. 01 42 79 90 63 | M 6: Edgar Quinet

LA FRESQUE

Located directly adjacent to the shopping centre Les Halles, this small restaurant not only has good-natured waiters, but also a typically Parisian flair. Good value for money. It is always full in the evenings. Closed Sun | 100, rue Rambuteau | 11th arr. | tel. 01 42 33 17 56 | M 4: Les Halles

LE MESTURET

PAPILLES

PAUSE CAFÉ

In the afternoon, it’s a typical café with a sunny terrace. Otherwise, it’s a colourful trendy spot with Italianate food. Located directly behind the Bastille. A perennial favourite whose popularity has not waned over the years. Daily (open only until 8pm Sun) | 41, rue de Charonne | 11th arr. | tel. 01 40 21 89 06 | M 1, 5, 8: Bastille

LA POMPONETTE

QUINOÉ

The first restaurant in Paris to actively promote the concepts of ‘organic’ and ‘fair trade’. The young women who operate this lunch venue, offer deliciously exotic delicacies such as black quinoa, smoked salmon with pink rice and chicken curry at astonishingly low prices. Fair trade products are sold in their shop. Mon–Fri 11.30am–3.30pm | 59, rue des Mathurins | 8th arr. | tel. 01 40 06 91 04 | M 9: Saint-Augustin | www.quinoe.com

RESTAURANT DU ROND-POINT

You can enjoy a delicious and yet affordable meal in the Théâtre du Rond-Point close to the Champs-Elysées. We recommend the cold dishes and platters. Closed Sat and Sun lunch, closed Mon evenings | 2bis avenue F. D. Roosevelt | 8th arr. | tel. 01 44 95 98 44 | M 1, 9: Franklin D. Roosevelt | www.theatredurondpoint.fr/

SATURNE

Trendy restaurant with austere wooden furnishings under a glass roof and an excellent vinotheque in the lobby. The fresh, uncomplicated cuisine is truly outstanding. Closed Sat/Sun | 7, rue Notre-Dame-des-Victoires | 2nd arr. | tel. 01 42 60 31 90 | M 3: Bourse

bœuf bourguignon – braised beef in a Burgundy sauce

bouillabaisse – fish stew made with Mediterranean fish

brochettes de coquilles Saint Jacques – kebabs with scallops

caneton à l’orange – roast duck in an orange sauce

coq au vin – braise of chicken in red wine (photo)

côtes de porc aux herbes – pork chops with herbs

crème brûlée – a rich custard base topped with a layer of hard caramel

crêpes Suzette – thin pancakes with Grand Marnier

écrevisses à la nage – boiled crayfish in a spicy broth

escargots à la bourguignonne – boiled snails in a garlic herb sauce

fruits de mer – seafood, i.e. crevettes (prawns, photo), huîtres (oysters) and coquilles/moules (mussels) – often served raw

gigot d’agneau aux morilles – leg of lamb with morels

gratin dauphinois – potato gratin

homard à l’armoricaine – lobster in a tomato, onion, herb, white wine and cognac sauce

moules marinières – steamed mussels in white wine with onions

noisettes d’agneau – small lamb cutlets fried in butter

pot-au-feu – stew with beef, chicken and a variety of vegetables

profiteroles – small cream puff-pastry with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce

quenelles de brochet – pickerel, cream and egg dumplings

ratatouille – vegetables sauteed with olive oil, onions and herbs, served either hot or cold

soupe à l’oignon gratinée – onion soup baked with cheese

tarte Tatin – carmelised upside down apple pie

WINEBARS

The wine list in a bar à vins is predictably extensive and usually includes snacks such as a cold meat or cheese platter.

JUVÈNILES

Very popular, especially among the younger crowd, and not only because of the tasty appetisers and tapas. Closed Sun/Mon lunchtime | 47, rue de Richelieu | 1st arr. | tel. 01 42 97 46 49 | M 1, 7: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

LES PIPOS

A simple wine bar that has remained virtually unchanged since its opening in 1948. Large wine selection, cheese platter and a traditional daily special. Closed Sat dinner/Sun | 10, rue du Marché Saint-Honoré | 1st arr. | tel. 01 42 61 03 34 | M 8, 14: Pyramides

The African district is home to Le Tribal Café Street Atlas [139 E1] where you can dine for free – though a small contribution of 3.50 euros is expected – in an exotic and convivial atmosphere: Fri/Sat couscous, Wed/Thu moules frites (mussels with chips), from 9pm. 3, cour des Petites Ecuries | 10th arr. | tel. 01 47 70 57 08 |M 4: Château-d’Eau

Vegetarian fare is available at the Indian restaurant Krishna Bhavan Street Atlas [134 A5] – delicious currys from 4.50 euros and soups for 3 euros. Daily | 24, rue Cail | 10th arr. | tel. 01 42 05 78 43 |M 2: La Chapelle

Very inexpensive specialities from southwest France and the Basque region at the modest restaurant Chez Glandines Street Atlas [145 E6] in the nightlife district Butte-aux-Cailles. Daily | 30, rue des Cinq Diamants | 13th arr. | tel. 01 45 80 70 10 |M 6: Corvisart

	Les Ombres
	Contemporary restaurant with a view of the Eiffel Tower

	Le Train Bleu
	Majestic fin-de-siècle decor – a feast for the senses

	L’Escargot Montorgueil
	Upscale traditional restaurant from the time of Les Halles

	Julien
	Paris’ most splendidly decorated brasserie

	Senderens
	Who needs three stars

Photo: Senderens restaurant

HIGHLIGHTS | BRASSERIES | CAFÉS | RESTAURANTS: EXPENSVIE | RESTAURANTS: MODERATE | RESTAURANTS: BUDGET | WINEBARS

To the French, eating is so much more than simply nourishment. It is also an essential means of social interaction and a vital ingredient in enhancing the quality of life.