MARCO POLO Paris

WHERE TO START?

If you’re not looking out for cheap clothing or practically unwearable haute couture and want to avoid the stress of department store clutter, you’re best off in Marais. You’ll find plenty of shops where French women buy their working day wardrobe. Men can also find what they’re looking for in shops here too. Select hand-crafted items and cosmetics round off your shopping spree and a break at one of the street cafés in the district always turns shopping into a pleasurable event. M 1: Saint-Paul

Shopping in the French consumer metropolis conjures up images of fashion, perfumes, delicatessens, champagne and other luxury items. In Paris, everything is done to the hilt and its products are always showcased with élan.

A shopping spree in Paris means digging deeper into your pockets than at home. Paris offers the best of everything and, if you know where to shop, you can even land a good bargain. Apart from that, wandering through the shrines to consumerism, shopping streets and passages, lèche vitrines (window shopping), as they say in French, has sheer entertainment value – for free.

Whether it’s the haute couture shop windows in the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré or a grocery store’s lavish and colourful displays: shopping in Paris is an experience. Some even make a special trip to take advantage of clearance sales (soldes) that occur twice a year (Jan and June/July).

Most shops are open Monday–Friday from 10am to 7pm or 7.30pm. On Thursdays large department stores have longer opening hours known as nocturne, evening shopping, and close at either 9pm or 10pm. If you want to shop on Sunday, stores in Marais, the lower ground floor at the Louvre and some shops on the Champs-Élysées are open. Many of the small grocers (épiceries) never seem to close: in France there is no law regulating closing time for shops. Note, however, that some of the smaller stores close on Monday, Wednesday, or over lunchtime. Department stores and many other shops are open on the last three or four Sundays before Christmas.

	Barthélemy
	A kingdom for cheese lovers within a tiny space

ANTIQUES

DROUOT

As one of the oldest auction houses in the world, Drouot is an institution. Furniture and art objects come under the hammer in 21 halls. A visit here could easily replace a trip to a museum. 9, rue Drouot | 9th arr. | M 8, 9: Richelieu-Drouot | www.drouot.com

90 different shops are situated in several interconnected, idyllic back courtyards near the Place des Vosges where you’ll find small pieces of furniture, paintings, jewellery, porcelain and more. Thu–Mon | between rue Saint-Paul and rue Charlemagne | 4th arr. | M 1: Saint-Paul

BOOKS & MUSIC

LES BOUQUINISTES

The green wooden boxes on both sides of the Seine have shaped the cityscape for more than 300 years. It’s a real kick to rummage through the old books, newspapers and postcards. Between the Tuileries and the Île Saint-Louis | 1st arr./5th arr. | M 7: Pont Neuf

FNAC

The largest bookseller in Paris, with a sizeable CD and DVD department. This is an excellent place to while away a few hours on a rainy day. Daily until midnight | 74, av. des Champs-Élysées | 8th arr. | M 1, 9: Franklin D. Roosevelt | www.fnac.com

VIRGIN MEGASTORE

A huge CD store where you could easily spend hours browsing. (CDs are more expensive here than in several other countries!) Daily until midnight | 52, av. des Champs-Élysées | 8th arr. | M 1, 9: Franklin D. Roosevelt | www.virginmegastore.fr

DELICATESSEN

AMORINO

In 2002, two Italians opened the first artisan ice cream boutique on the Île Saint-Louis, and there are now 19 stores in Paris. Daily noon –midnight (closed Dec–Feb) | 47, rue Saint-Louis-en-Île | 4th arr. | M 7: Pont Marie

BARTHÉLEMY

One of the best cheese emporiums (crèmeries) in Paris which also caters to the Élysée Palace. Former President Charles de Gaulle once remarked: ‘How can anyone govern a nation that has two hundred and forty-six different kinds of cheese?’ A lot of these cheeses can be found carefully piled up in this small shop. 51, rue de Grenelle | 7th arr. | M 12: Rue du Bac

DEBAUVE & GALLAIS

The opulent, 200-year-old chocolaterie can be compared to a jewellery shop. The big difference: these gems melt in your mouth. 30, rue des Saint-Pères | 7th arr. | M 4: Saint-Germain-des-Prés | www.debauve-et-gallais.com

FAUCHON

Gourmands and ordinary consumers alike can appreciate the celestial selection of exotic fruits, truffles and caviar in this gourmet shop. 26, pl. de la Madeleine | 8th arr. | M 8, 12, 14: Madeleine | www.fauchon.fr

HÉDIARD

This long standing delicatessen (founded in 1854) is known for its variety of treats in exquisitely packed little tins, especially the truffled foie gras and lobster pâté, which make appropriate souvenirs of France. 21, pl. de la Madeleine | 8th arr. | M 8, 12, 14: Madeleine | www.hediard.fr

Specialities from all over the world, mainly Arabian, African and Asian countries, are piled to the rafters in wild confusion amid the sausages hanging from hooks and the exotic spices. A unique aromatic experience. 30, rue François Miron | 4th arr. | M 1: Saint-Paul

LAVINIA

The largest wine cellar in Europe. 7,500 wines from 43 countries on three storeys in a price range from 3 to 6,500 euros. You can test the wine (without a surcharge) together with a snack in the accompanying bar. Mon–Sat | 3–5, bd. de la Madeleine | 1st arr. | M 8, 12, 14: Madeleine | www.lavinia.fr

A mouth-watering delicatessen shop situated between the nostalgic Galleries Vivienne and the Rue de la Banque. The shop was established in 1880 and exudes time-honoured sophistication. Wine connoisseurs in particular will clamour to experience the extensive wine selection and wine tastings at the bar’s wooden counters. Mon–Sat | 1, rue de la Banque | 2nd arr. | M 1: Palais-Royal | www.caves-legrand.com

LA MAISON DU CHOCOLAT

Since its founding in 1955, the chocolaterie holds the distinction of a Paris institution with shops worldwide. You can also have the finest chocolate confection chilled for overseas shipping. A rich chocolate beverage at the counter will put you in a shopping mood. Mon–Sat 10am–7.30pm, Sun 10am–7pm | 225, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré | 2nd arr. | M 2: Ternes | www.lamaisonduchocolat.com

MAISON DE THÉ GEORGE CANNON

A shop with an assortment of 250 flavours of tea. The venerable establishment is much more than a tea shop. In addition to tastings in the bar, the salon offers organic dishes, often with tea supplements. Rediscover your inner self with one of the many Shiatsu massages or an authentic Japanese tea ceremony on the shop’s lower level. Tue–Sat 10.30am–7.30pm | 12, Notre-Dame-des Champs | 6th arr. | M 4: St.-Placide | www.georgecannon.fr

LA PÂTISSERIE DES RÊVES

Tartes au citron, mille-feuilles, éclaires ... Decadent indulgences of French confectionary art await you under bell jars and entice you to buy first for savouring later. Tue–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–4pm | 93, rue du Bac | 7th arr. | M 12: Rue du Bac | www.lapatisseriedesreves.com

DESIGN & LIFESTYLE

ARTY DANDY

A shop for those who have everything. It sees itself as a gallery-store, and anything in terms of art, kitsch, fashion, cosmetics and design, as well as the extraordinary – individual pieces, limited editions, anything cutting edge – can be bought here. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm | 1, rue de Furstenberg | 6. arr. | M 4: St.-Germain-des-Prés | www.artydandy.com

THE CONRAN SHOP

DEHILLERIN

In this shop, steeped in tradition and dating back to 1820, you will find everything that exists pertaining to kitchens and cooking on its two floors. Dehillerin is world-renowned among chefs and French celebrity chefs also frequent this shop. 18, rue Coquillière | 1st arr. | Métro/RER: Châtelet-Les Halles | www.e-dehillerin.fr

NATURE ET DÉCOUVERTES

Pamper yourself, French style: from relaxation CDs, fragrances and teas to garden accessories and unusual toys. A place of tranquility in the hectic shopping area Forum des Halles. 10bis, rue de l’Arc en Ciel | 1st arr. | M 4: Les Halles | www.natureetdecouvertes.com

FLEA MARKETS

ALIGRE

The oldest, relatively inexpensive and very beautiful flea market where food is also available. Tue–Sun mornings | pl. d’Aligre | 12th arr. | M 8: Ledru-Rollin

CLIGNANCOURT

The world’s largest flea market with more than 3,000 vendors. You can find practically everything here. The Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen consists of various sub markets. To see them all you’ll have to cover around 10 miles. For refreshment in the meantime, we recommend the rustic tavern

VANVES

The Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves is the smallest flea market in Paris: clothing (new), shoes, handbags on one street, curios and a variety of furnishings on the other. Sat/Sun 7am until at least 6pm | av. Georges Lafenestre and av. Marc Sagnier | 14th arr. | M 13: Porte de Vanves

DEPARTMENT STORES

LE BON MARCHÉ

The oldest department store in Paris and a symbol of luxury and quality for over 150 years. It is still a joy to meander through this Belle-Époque gem with unobtrusive classical music in the background, away from the usual touristy hustle and bustle. One of the best shoe and fashion departments carrying all the big-name brands. The gourmet food section next to it is quite an experience! 24, rue de Sèvres | 7th arr. | M 10, 12: Sèvres Babylone | www.lebonmarche.fr | www.lagrandeepicerie.fr

GALERIES LAFAYETTE

The shrine to consumerism situated under a massive glass dome has been a huge attraction since 1908. Clothing is arranged by brand name, as opposed to the type of garment (trousers, shirts, etc.) The shoe department is the largest in the world covering nearly 10,000 ft2. If you need a break from shopping, there is a variety of restaurants to suit every palate. 40, bd. Haussmann | 9th arr. | M 3, 7, 8: Opéra, RER A: Auber | www.galerieslafayette.com

PRINTEMPS

In addition to the huge cosmetics department on the ground floor and the beautiful spa area on the first floor, the upper floor is devoted to all the luxury fashion brands as well as less costly labels beyond the café-restaurant under the famous Art Nouveau glass dome. 64, bd. Haussmann | 9th arr. | M 3, 9: Havre-Caumartin, RER A: Auber | www.printemps.com

WHAT TO WEAR & ACCESSORIES

Younger and bolder fashion labels are located around the

Place des Victoires Street Atlas [139 D3] while designers such as Kenzo, Gaultier and others are sold in the boutiques on the Rue Etienne Marcel. In Marais, as well as in and around the Rue des Francs Bourgeois you’ll find the more unconventional fashion boutiques such as Abu d’abi, Azzedine Alaia, Issey Miyake, Lolita Lempicka and Paule Ka.

The term prêt-à-porter means wearable garments that are partly influenced by haute couture. Bargain hunters will be interested in the degriffé offer: reduced brand name clothing from the previous season, from which most of the company labels have been removed. A group of shops that also offer such items is located on the

Rue d’Alésia Street Atlas [144 A6] : Sonja Rykiel (no. 110), Cacharel (114), Crémieux (116), Diapositive (72), Majestic by Chevignon (122), Daniel Hechter (92). Some labels are marked down to 40 percent of the regular price, and are even further reduced during clearance sales. M 4: Alésia

COLETTE

Fashion, design and everything that’s ultra trendy. If you’re looking for something out of the ordinary, you’ve come to the right place. But the prices are also exceptional – exceptionally high. 213, rue Saint-Honoré | 1st arr. | M 1: Tuileries | www.colette.fr

DÉPÔT – VENTE DE PASSY

Luxury brands galore during the warehouse sale. A perfect place for bargain hunters! 14, rue de la Tour | 16th arr. | M 6: Trocadéro | www.depot-vente-paris.fr

Interesting concept: a blend of object design and names such as Issey Miyake, Prada, Helmut Lange, Comme des garçons. 3 ter, rue des Rosiers | 4th arr. | M 1: Saint-Paul | www.leclaireur.com

GERARD DAREL

One of the greatest wearable and affordable French fashion labels for women’s clothing. The trousers, dresses and jackets exude a sporty elegance. The ‘Jackie’ line is a classic. 41, rue des Francs-Bourgeois | 4th arr. | M 1: St.-Paul | www.gerarddarel.com

MONIC BIJOUX

The small jewellery store in one of the most lively shopping streets in the Marais district prides itself on its assortment of more than 10,000 pieces of jewellery between 1 and 10,000 euros. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm, Sun noon–7pm | 5, rue des Francs-Bourgeois | 4th arr. | M 1: Saint-Paul | www.bijouxmonic.com

The unconventionally designed socks and stockings by the trendy Japanese brand are all the rage in Paris and are ideal souvenirs. The quirky store is located in a former horse slaughterhouse. Mon–Sat 11am–8pm, Sun noon–7pm | 15, rue Vieille du Temple | 4th arr. | M 1, 11: Hôtel de Ville | www.tabio.com

UNIQLO

Japan’s largest fashion enterprise opened its French flagship store in autumn 2009 near the Opéra Garner. Young and cutting-edge fashion at rock bottom prices. 17, rue Scribe | 9th arr. | M 3, 7, 8: Opéra, RER A: Auber | www.uniqlo.com

COSMETICS & PERFUME

DANIEL JOUVENCE

The marine-based cosmetics concern from Brittany advocates beauty and health. While you let yourself be spoiled by the extensive array of skincare products on the lower floor, you’ll find everything you need for your bath and body on the ground floor. The design and befitting background music transport you into a meditative ‘seaside’ state. Mon–Sat 10am–7.30pm | 91, av. des Champs-Élysées | 8th arr. | M 1, 2, 6/RER A: Charles de Gaulle-Toile | www.danieljouvance.com

FRAGONARD

The Musée du Partum (free admission) is situated in an opulent Napoleon III-style palais opposite the Opera Garnier. Across the courtyard is a showroom for the largest perfume label, Fragonard, from Grasse in the South of France. Take a sniff around! Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 9.30am–4pm | 9, rue Scribe | 2nd arr. | M 7, 9: Opéra | www.fragonard.com

SÉPHORA

Giant cosmetic and perfume emporium by the eponymous chain, where makeup is applied nonstop against a backdrop of hot disco rhythms – for free. The store’s own brand of bath and body products are both colourful and very pretty. Mon–Thu 10am–midnight, Fri/Sat 10am–1am | 70–72, av. des Champs-Élysées | 8th arr. | M 1, 2, 6/RER A: Charles de Gaulle-Toile | www.sephora.com

ART GALLERIES

The largest assortment of galleries for contemporary art are in the vicinity of the renowned art academy, ‘Beaux Arts’ on the Rue de Seine and its side streets, namely, Rue des Beaux Arts, Rue Jacques Callout and Rue Mazarin Street Atlas [139 C6].

A similar cluster of galleries is found in the Rue Vieille du Temple Street Atlas [140 A4–5], particularly around the Musée Picasso and in the Rue Quincampoix Street Atlas [139 E4] by the Centre Georges Pompidou.

Less established and more affordable and livelier are the paintings you can purchase by artists from Belleville, whose works are exhibited in a gallery in the Rue de la Mare (no. 32) in the 20th arrondissement Street Atlas [141 E2]

Paris is known as the city of art. Why not acquire an original as a souvenir? In the vicinity of the Centre Pompidou you can choose from paintings, photographs and graphic art from 25 euros upwards! Mon–Sat 11am–7.30pm | 67, rue de la Verrerie | 4th arr. | M 1: Hôtel de Ville | www.artgenerations.fr

VIADUC DES ARTS

In order to exhibit as an artist or craftsman beneath the viaduct’s 60 brick arches, setting up a studio on the premises is required. For your physical well-being, there are equally inspiring café-restaurants among the 130 shops. 1–129, av. Daumesnil | 12th arr. | M 1, 5, 8: Bastille | www.viaducdesarts.com

MARKETS

It’s to be expected that nearly every district in Paris has its ‘own’ market, including

BARBÈS

Eclectic Arabian-African bazaar, often very chaotic on account of the low prices. Tue and Sat mornings | bd. de la Chapelle | 18th arr. | M 2, 4: Barbès-Rochechouart

The largest, cheapest and most exotic market in Paris is located in the colourful and multicultural district east of the city. Tue and Fri 7am–2.30pm | 20th arr. | M 2, 11: Belleville, M 2: Menilmontant

Second hand: designer clothing – including Kenzo, Chanel, Agnès B. – in excellent condition but requiring a bit of rummaging – can be found at Chercheminippes Street Atlas [144 A2]. 102, 109, 110, 111, rue Cherche Midi | 6th arr. | M 10: Vaneau |www.chercheminippes.com

At Emmaüs Street Atlas [140 C6], the social institution founded by Abbé Pierre, there are bargains galore among second-hand clothing, books, crockery and furniture. Mon 2.30pm–7pm, Tue–Sat 11am–2pm and 2.30–7pm | 54, rue de Charonne | 11. arr. | M 8: Ledru-Rollin |www.emmaus-france.org

Clearance sales (soldes), which go on for six weeks from the middle of January and from the end of June, are where big-name brands are sold at bargain prices with up to 70 percent off.

	Debauve & Gallais
	A chocolaterie which resembles an upscale jewellery store

	Le Bon Marché
	The most elegant department store in all of Paris

	Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
	‘The’ haute couture area of the city

	Place des Victoires
	Young fashion designers and lots of boutiques

Photo: Galeries Lafayette

HIGHLIGHTS | ANTIQUES | BOOKS & MUSIC | DELICATESSEN | DESIGN & LIFESTYLE | FLEA MARKETS | DEPARTMENT STORES | WHAT TO WEAR & ACCESSORIES | COSMETICS & PERFUME | ART GALLERIES | MARKETS