Chapter 1
BEEF AND VEAL

Meat braises are the ones many of us craved growing up, the slow-cooked pot roast, short ribs, brisket, and osso buco that made the kitchen smell so good that the family couldn’t wait to eat. Many a wise mother chose these dishes because they were filling and inexpensive and usually provided delicious leftovers, too. If those recipes appeal to you, the first step in making them should be to get to know your butcher; the more helpful the butcher, the better your experience with braising beef and veal will be. Shop at a market where you can talk to someone behind the counter who will point out the best cuts and crack the short ribs or trim the chuck. Glean tips from him or her, just like we do from farmers at the weekend market, and your skill with meat braises will grow to the point where you will be creating your own recipes to round out the ones in this chapter.

classic pot roast with carrots and onions

In the past few years, I cannot believe the number of restaurants serving pot roast as the star entrée. It’s funny—I think of pot roast as the ultimate in home cooking. My mother’s was always made with beer, so I have continued that tradition. The best cut for this is chuck, although it can also be made with brisket. Serve with Herbed Wide Noodles. [SERVES 6]

An hour before starting to cook, remove the meat from the refrigerator, rinse, and pat dry with paper towels. Place on a plate and sprinkle all over with salt and pepper. Let stand to come to room temperature.

Preheat an oven to 350 degrees F. Coat the bottom of a 5- to 7-quart Dutch oven with a thin film of the oil and set pot over medium-high heat. When oil shimmers, put meat in pot and let cook, without moving it, until it is deeply browned on the bottom and lifts easily from the pot when turned with 2 large spoons, about 8 minutes. Do not turn meat with a fork as this pierces it. Continue to brown meat on all sides, turning as needed, about 10 minutes more.

Transfer meat to a plate and set aside. Add the onions and carrots to pot and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme. Pour in the beer and broth, stirring to release browned bits, then stir in the tomato paste. Let mixture come to a boil, then return meat and any accumulated juices to pot. Cover pot and transfer to the oven. Cook, turning meat over once about halfway through cooking, until meat is tender and pulls apart easily when prodded with a fork, 21/2 to 3 hours. Transfer meat to a plate and let rest for 10 minutes; meanwhile, spoon off fat from sauce (if desired, reduce sauce or thicken it as needed). Slice meat across grain and serve with sauce and vegetables from pot.

braised “barbecue” brisket

My trusty sidekick on this book, Amanda Haas, grew up eating brisket drenched in homemade barbecue sauce, made by her mother, Jill. This version of that recipe feeds a crowd, so it’s a good choice for a party, plus you have to start it the day ahead anyway. Slice meat and serve on buns with Naneita’s Coleslaw, or atop Creamy Baked Polenta or cooked grits. [SERVES 8]

Rinse the brisket and pat dry with paper towels. In a small bowl or ramekin, stir together the chili powder, paprika, sugar, salt, and garlic powder. Rub mixture all over meat, then place meat in a large plastic sealable bag and refrigerate overnight or up to 24 hours.

An hour before starting to cook, remove brisket from refrigerator and let come to room temperature in sealed bag. Preheat an oven to 325 degrees F.

Remove meat from bag. Coat the bottom of an 8- to 10-quart Dutch oven, or other pot big enough to hold brisket in 1 layer, with a thin film of the oil (if you don’t have a pot large enough, cut brisket in half crosswise and brown in batches). Set pot over medium-high heat and when oil shimmers, put meat in pot; let cook until it is deeply browned on the bottom and lifts easily from the pot when turned with tongs, 5 to 8 minutes. Turn and brown on other side, 5 to 8 minutes more. Transfer meat to a plate. Repeat with remaining half brisket if necessary.

Add the onion to pot and cook, stirring, until lightly colored, about 5 minutes. Pour in 2 cups water, stirring to release browned bits. Return meat and any accumulated juices to pot, then place a piece of foil over meat, covering to the edges of pot and tucking foil in. Cover pot and transfer to the oven; cook for 2 hours. Remove pot, carefully lift off foil, and turn meat over (if sauce in pan looks dry, add 1 cup water). Replace foil and cover, then return pot to oven.

Continue to cook until meat is fork tender, but not falling apart, about 1 hour more.

Meanwhile, prepare the barbecue sauce. In a saucepan, combine sauce ingredients and bring to a boil, stirring. Remove from heat and let sit until ready to use.

When brisket is tender, remove from oven and discard foil; tilt pot and spoon off as much fat as possible. Pour barbecue sauce over meat, cover pot, and return to oven until meat is very tender and sauce is reduced, about 30 minutes. Remove and let brisket stand 10 to 15 minutes before serving to settle flavors, then slice across grain and offer with sauce.

asian-style short ribs with lacquered carrots

While most meat braises taste better made the day ahead, this one really should be made the day before it’s eaten. Because short ribs are fatty (part of why they are so divine), if you chill this overnight, the fat can be lifted right off the sauce. You can also cut the meat off the bones, which makes the dish easier to serve. If you can’t find baby carrots, it’s fine to use the bagged mini carrots for convenience. Serve these with white or brown rice. [SERVES 4 TO 6]

Preheat an oven to 350 degrees F.

Rinse the short ribs and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt. Coat the bottom of a 5- to 7-quart Dutch oven with a thin film of the oil and set pot over medium-high heat. When oil shimmers, add enough short ribs to cover the bottom in 1 layer. Cook, without stirring, until short ribs lift easily from pot with tongs and are well browned on bottom, about 5 minutes. Turn and brown on the other side, about 5 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and continue with remaining short ribs, adding more oil to pot in between batches as needed.

Meanwhile, stir together the orange juice, soy, sugar, and red pepper flakes. Set aside.

When the last batch of short ribs has been removed from pot, drain off all but 1 tablespoon fat and add the onion. Cook, stirring, until onion is softened, about 2 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic and stir 1 minute more until fragrant. Pour in orange juice mixture, let come to a boil, then put short ribs back in pot 1 at a time, bone side up; don’t worry if you have to snuggle them a bit.

Cover pot and transfer to the oven. Cook until meat peels easily away from bone when prodded with a fork, 11/2 to 2 hours. Remove from oven and transfer meat and bones to a plate. (The recipe can be made ahead to this point; let cool to room temperature and place short ribs and sauce in separate containers and store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.)

If serving the dish right away, cover meat with foil to keep warm. Tilt pot to 1 side and spoon off as much fat as possible from sauce. Place pot over high heat and add the carrots and 1 cup water; bring to a boil. (If made ahead, lift and remove solidified fat from top of sauce. Put sauce in a wide, deep pan, add carrots and water and continue as directed.) Reduce heat slightly and cook, uncovered, at a steady simmer until sauce is reduced by about half and carrots are just tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Return meat briefly to pan to rewarm, then serve. (If reheating meat, cover pan and heat in sauce for about 10 minutes more.)

monday night chili

This recipe was born when I had leftover flat beer from a party Sunday night … what to do with it the next day? Use it in a chili to eat while watching Monday night football and drinking a little more beer, of course. If you don’t have stale beer, a freshly opened bottle will do. This is excellent served with Naneita’s Coleslaw and cornbread. [SERVES 6]

Place chiles in a 1-cup measure and cover with boiling water. Set aside to soften.

Cut the meat into 1-inch pieces, rinse, and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt. Coat the bottom of a 5- to 7-quart Dutch oven with a thin film of the oil and set pot over medium-high heat. When oil shimmers, add enough meat to cover bottom in 1 layer. Cook, without stirring, until meat lifts easily from pot with tongs and is well browned on bottom, about 5 minutes. Turn and brown on the other side, about 5 minutes more. Transfer meat to a plate and continue with remaining meat, adding more oil to pot in between batches as needed.

When last batch of meat has been removed, add onion to pot, season with a little more salt, and cook, stirring, until starting to color, about 5 minutes. Pour in beer and bring to a boil, stirring to release browned bits, then reduce heat to a simmer.

Lift chiles out of soaking liquid (do not discard liquid) and pull off stems. Split open chiles and rinse under running water to remove seeds. Place the chiles, tomato, garlic, and half the reserved soaking liquid in a blender and purée; add remaining soaking liquid and blend again. Pour mixture into pot; add meat and any accumulated juices and bring to a boil. Cover pot, reduce heat, and simmer 1 hour.

Add yam, nestling into liquid, then cover pot again, and continue to simmer until meat and potato are tender and liquid is thickened, about 30 minutes more. Remove from heat and let stand 5 to 10 minutes before serving, to settle flavors. Spoon into bowls and garnish with radishes, sour cream, and green onions as desired.

pub short ribs

I dug an old family recipe for short ribs braised in mustard and beer from my mother’s files, then found it tasted much richer with porter or stout (a favorite of mine is Anchor Porter, brewed in San Francisco). Have your butcher cut each rib in two places, so they are easier to handle. Serve with Cheddar Mashers or Creamy Baked Polenta, and more porter to drink. [SERVES 4]

Preheat a broiler to high and an oven to 375 degrees F (if using a separate oven). Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.

Rinse the short ribs and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt. In a large bowl, stir together the mustard, sugar, garlic, and vinegar. Add short ribs and toss with your hands until ribs are covered in mustard mixture. Transfer ribs to foil-lined baking sheet and place in the broiler. Cook until browned on top, about 4 minutes, then turn over with tongs and brown on the other side, about 4 minutes more. (If using the same oven as broiler, set oven temperature at this point to 375 degrees F.)

Meanwhile, put the bacon in a 5- to 7-quart Dutch oven set over medium-high heat. Cook bacon, stirring as needed, until browned, but not completely crisp. Pour off fat. Pour the porter into pot and bring to a boil, stirring to release browned bits.

When short ribs are browned, transfer to pot with tongs. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper, then scatter the onion wedges over all. Cover pot and transfer to the oven. Cook until meat peels easily away from bone when prodded with a fork, about 11/2 hours, stirring contents of pot after an hour.

Transfer pot from oven to stove top and lift out meat and bones with tongs; set aside. Tilt pot to 1 side and spoon off as much fat as possible. (There should be very little sauce in pot at this point; if it is still liquid, place pot over high heat and boil, stirring, until only a few tablespoons remain.) Sprinkle the flour over contents in pot and cook, stirring, over high heat for 30 seconds. Pour in the broth and let come to a boil; cook, stirring, until sauce starts to thicken, about 1 minute. Return short ribs to pot and stir to coat with sauce. Remove from heat and let stand 5 to 10 minutes before serving, to settle flavors.

beef stew with caramelized onions and red wine

This is a classic—beef and onions slow-cooked in good wine. I like it with Pinot Noir, although a friend makes a version on Sundays with any leftover red wine from the weekend. While many butchers now sell “lean beef stew” (usually cut from the top round or sirloin), deeply marbled chuck is still the meat of choice for flavor and richness. [SERVES 6]

Cut the meat into 2-inch pieces, rinse, and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Coat the bottom of a 5- to 7-quart Dutch oven with a thin film of the oil and set pot over medium-high heat. When oil shimmers, add enough meat to cover bottom in 1 layer. Cook, without stirring, until meat lifts easily from pot with tongs and is well browned on bottom, about 5 minutes. Turn and brown on the other side, about 5 minutes more. Transfer meat to a plate and continue with remaining meat, adding more oil to pot in between batches as needed.

When last batch of meat has been removed, add the butter to pot, then the onions and a good pinch of salt, and cook, stirring often, until onions are softened, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to low and sprinkle the sugar over onions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are limp and golden, about 15 minutes. Stir in the flour and thyme and increase heat to high. Stir 1 minute, then pour in the wine and broth and let liquid come to a boil. Stir in the tomato paste. Return meat and any accumulated juices to pot, let liquid come to a boil, then reduce heat, cover, and simmer until meat is tender when pierced and sauce is thickened, 11/2 to 2 hours. Remove from heat and let stand 5 to 10 minutes before serving, to settle flavors.

rich red cowboy stew

Way back when, while filming a show about “cowboy cooking,” I stopped in at Pendery’s spice market in Fort Worth, Texas. I got to play with all sorts of seasonings and I particularly liked the Salt-Free Chile Blend. To order it, go to www.penderys.com. Or use your favorite brand of mild chili powder and adjust the salt accordingly. [SERVES 6]

Cut the meat into 1-inch pieces, rinse, and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt. Coat the bottom of a 5- to 7-quart Dutch oven with a thin film of the oil and set pot over medium-high heat. When oil shimmers, add enough meat to cover bottom in 1 layer. Cook, without stirring, until meat lifts easily from pot with tongs and is well browned on bottom, about 5 minutes. Turn and brown on the other side, about 5 minutes more. Transfer meat to a plate and continue with remaining meat, adding more oil to pot in between batches as needed.

When last batch of meat has been removed, add the onion to pot and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Return meat and any accumulated juices to pot and sprinkle in the chili powder and a pinch of salt. Add the tomatoes and 11/2 cups water and let come to a boil; reduce heat, cover, and simmer until meat is very tender, 11/2 to 2 hours (check occasionally to make sure liquid doesn’t evaporate; if sauce appears dry, add more water 1/4 cup at a time). Remove from heat and let stand 5 to 10 minutes to settle flavors, then salt to taste before serving.

stracotto

Stracotto means “very” or “extra” cooked in Italian, but we might translate it simply as pot roast. I have had stracotto in trattorias and homes in Italy, but this recipe comes by way of an American doctor whose nonna made it here, adapting the cut of meat to chuck, a different cut from what they use in Italy. The size of the pot is crucial since the meat braises in its own juice, so test to make sure the pieces fit snugly in one layer; there must be a tight seal, too, so if the lid doesn’t fit well, add a layer of foil. Serve Stracotto with Herbed Wide Noodles and Horseradish Cream. [SERVES 4 TO 6]

Preheat an oven to 325 degrees F.

An hour before starting to cook, cut the meat into large chunks, about 4 inches square; rinse meat and pat dry with paper towels. Set aside to come to room temperature.

Pour 3 tablespoons of the oil into a 5- to 7-quart Dutch oven (it should be just big enough to hold meat in 1 layer); tilt pot to coat bottom with oil. Spread half the onion slices on bottom. Top with meat, sprinkle with the salt, then cover with remaining onions. Drizzle remaining oil over all. Cover pot tightly (if your lid isn’t a good fit, cover pot with foil, then put lid on top of that).

Place in the oven and cook until meat is literally falling apart, about 3 hours, stirring gently halfway through cooking. Remove from oven and drain off fat. Break up meat slightly with a large fork or spoon. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

veal stew with marsala and mushrooms

Because veal is lean and mild, it is wonderful paired with robust ingredients. In classic form, this stew is not browned first, but is thickened with beurre manié (butter and flour kneaded together) at the end. To complete the classic picture, offer with Herbed Wide Noodles or spaetzle. [SERVES 4 TO 6]

Cut the veal into 1-inch pieces, rinse, and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and set aside.

Cut the bacon lengthwise in half, then crosswise into small pieces. Put bacon and the oil in a 5- to 7-quart Dutch oven and set over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, until bacon is golden brown (but not crisp) and fat is rendered, about 3 minutes. Stir in the onion and thyme and cook, stirring, until onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Increase heat to high and pour in the Marsala; cook, stirring for about 1 minute, to release any browned bits. Add the broth and let come to a boil. Add veal and the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until mixture comes to a boil, then reduce heat, cover, and simmer until meat is tender, about 55 minutes.

Turn off heat under pot. In a small bowl, blend the butter and flour with a fork until paste-like; stir mixture into sauce in pot. Let stew stand, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes before serving, to settle flavors.

veal braised in milk

Braising meat in milk is an Italian tradition that astonishes most people: It sounds odd, but tastes phenomenal. I first had veal braised in milk in Tuscany, but it is more common in the north. My favorite cookbook in Italian (appealingly called L’Antichef, which anyone can translate) includes a variation with vinegar, which inspired me to try it with wine, especially a softer white one might find from northeast Italy. [SERVES 6]

An hour before starting to cook, remove the meat from the refrigerator, rinse, and pat dry with paper towels. Place on a plate and sprinkle all over with salt and pepper. Let stand to come to room temperature.

Preheat an oven to 325 degrees F. Warm the oil in a 5- to 7-quart Dutch oven set over medium-high heat. When oil shimmers, put meat in pot and let cook, without moving it, until it is browned on the bottom and lifts easily from the pot when turned with tongs, about 5 minutes. Continue to brown meat on all sides, turning as needed, about 5 minutes more.

Transfer meat to a plate and set aside. Add the onion, celery, carrot, and wine to pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened and wine is reduced to a few tablespoons, about 5 minutes. Return meat and any accumulated juices to pot, then pour in enough milk to come halfway up sides of meat. Let milk just come to a boil, then cover pot and transfer to the oven. Cook until meat is tender when pierced, about 11/2 hours.

Remove pot from oven and transfer meat to plate with tongs. Tent meat with foil and let sauce sit, uncovered, for about 10 minutes (sauce will appear coagulated; this is normal). When sauce has cooled slightly, purée it in a blender (be careful when puréeing hot liquids). Pour sauce back into pot. Clip strings off meat and slice meat into serving portions; ladle sauce over meat and serve.

osso buco with capers and lemon

I love lemon juice and capers with veal scaloppine, so why not with veal shanks? When buying osso buco, you’ll see that the shanks range in size. Look for ones that are equal so that they will cook evenly and no one will be jealous of anyone else’s portion. Serve over Shortcut Risotto and, for an extra zap of flavor, sprinkle with Basil Gremolata. [SERVES 6]

Preheat an oven to 350 degrees F.

Pat the shanks well with paper towels (do not rinse). Dredge shanks in the flour and shake well to rid of excess; sprinkle shanks with the salt. Melt the butter in the oil in the bottom of an 8- to 10-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When foam subsides, add shanks in 1 layer (do in batches if necessary). Cook until crusty and golden brown on the bottom, about 5 minutes, then brown on other sides, turning shanks as necessary with tongs, about 5 minutes more. Transfer shanks to a plate. Continue with remaining shanks, adding more oil to pot as needed.

When all shanks have been removed, add the onion and celery to pot and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes (if flour starts to scorch, also add 1/2 cup water and stir to release browned bits). Increase heat to high and pour in the wine; let boil for 1 minute to cook off some of the alcohol. Pour in the broth and let mixture come to a boil, then return shanks to pot. Cover pot and transfer to the oven. Cook until meat peels easily off bone when prodded with a fork, 11/2 to 2 hours, turning shanks over once about halfway through cooking.

Transfer pot to stove top and transfer shanks to a plate. Grate the zest of both lemons directly into pot, then squeeze lemon juice and stir it in. Stir in the capers. Taste sauce and season to preference; if necessary, increase heat to high and reduce sauce to desired consistency. Divide shanks among plates or shallow bowls, top evenly with sauce, and sprinkle with gremolata or parsley.

veal paprikas

I bumped into a childhood friend one day who had moved to Hungary years before. We had a lot to catch up on, but spent most of the time talking about veal paprikas (pronounced “paprikash”), a dish that’s a staple in her home and most others there. This recipe came from that chat. Serve with Herbed Wide Noodles or Golden Pilaf. [SERVES 6]

Cut the veal into 1-inch pieces. Rinse meat well in a colander and shake off excess water, but do not pat dry (you want moisture clinging to it). Melt the butter in the oil in a 5- to 7-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the onion, and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle the paprika and cayenne over the onion, then add veal to pot; stir until meat is coated with spices. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until meat gives off a fair amount of liquid, about 10 minutes. Stir in the bell pepper, tomato, and a generous pinch of salt, then cover again, and cook until meat is tender, about 45 minutes.

In a small bowl, blend the flour with 2 tablespoons water, then stir in the sour cream; stir mixture into pot. Cook, covered, for 10 minutes more. Remove from heat and let stand 10 minutes to settle flavors. Stir well before serving.