Chapter 4
FISH AND SHELLFISH

Don’t pass up the fish counter when you are thinking about braising. Even though seafood is more delicate than meat or poultry, the same exchange of flavors that makes those dishes so irresistible applies to fish and shellfish. Scallops are the perfect example: They are meaty and firm and can be browned, deglazed, and simmered, but it’s a matter of minutes rather than hours so you can get a seafood stew on the table even at the end of a busy day. Many of the great seafaring cultures have iconic braised dishes. The bouillabaisse of Marseilles is probably the most famous (and the one in this chapter is easy to make), but there’s Sicily’s swordfish stew with capers, Thailand’s fish curry, and Portugal’s clever match of clams with sausage. Ask your fishmonger to guide you to the best of the local catch—halibut, wild salmon, monkfish, and shrimp are among the choices that make light, quick, unforgettable braises.

shortcut bouillabaisse

True bouillabaisse is an all-day affair to make; this rendition retains the classic fennel, leek, and saffron flavors, and the rouille, or spicy mayonnaise garnish, but takes far less time. For the bouquet garni, pare off strips of the orange zest with a vegetable peeler. [SERVES 4]

Cut root end and green tops off the leek. Slice white part of leek in half lengthwise, then rinse layers well. Slice leek thinly crosswise. Cut green tops off the fennel bulb, cut it in half lengthwise, cut out the core, then slice each half thinly crosswise, reserving about 1/4 cup of the feathery leaves. Put the thyme, zest, and reserved fennel leaves in a piece of doubled cheesecloth and tie it to make a bouquet garni.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a 10- to 12-inch-wide sauté pan or frying pan over medium-high heat and add leek and fennel slices; cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Crumble in the saffron and pour in the wine, letting it boil for about 1 minute. Add the broth and let come to a boil. Add the bouquet garni, reduce heat, cover, and simmer 45 minutes. Place the fish in pan, cover again, and cook until fish is opaque, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the bread on a baking sheet and toast in the broiler until golden on both sides; brush with remaining oil. In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, garlic, and cayenne. Ladle bouillabaisse into shallow bowls and top with a spoonful of spiced mayonnaise; angle 2 slices of toasted bread in each bowl and serve.

summer stew with halibut

I adore this dish, with its mosaic of diced zucchini, potatoes, and tiny red tomatoes surrounding white fish. Timing is crucial, so be sure to prep all the ingredients ahead of time. Substitute monkfish for the halibut when it’s available. [SERVES 4]

In a 10- to 12-inch-wide sauté pan or frying pan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the onions and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring to coat with butter and oil, for 1 minute. Pour in 1 cup of the broth then add the thyme and a pinch of salt. Let come to a boil, then reduce heat, cover, and simmer 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, rinse the fish and pat dry with paper towels.

Stir the tomatoes, zucchini, and corn into pan, then cover again and continue to cook while you prepare the fish: In a wide nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, melt remaining butter in remaining oil. When foam subsides, add fish and cook until it is lightly golden on bottom and releases easily from skillet with tongs, about 3 minutes. Turn fish over and cook until it releases on other side, about 2 minutes (slightly longer if using monkfish). Immediately transfer fish to pan with vegetables, then pour remaining broth into skillet, stirring to release browned bits. Pour contents of skillet into pan with vegetables and fish, then cover pan and continue cooking until fish is barely translucent in center and potatoes are tender, about 4 minutes for halibut, 6 minutes for monkfish. Stir the lemon juice into pan, then divide fish among shallow bowls and spoon vegetables and sauce around fish.

salmon ragout with tarragon

When May turns to June, most people start craving summer vacation, but I start craving wild King salmon and peas, both at peak season. Why not pair this rich fish with a little cream and share it with a favorite companion? It’s one of those recipes that’s ideal for two. [SERVES 2]

Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise and gently squeeze out seed sacs; dice tomatoes. Set aside.

Cut root end and green tops off the leek. Slice white part in half lengthwise, then rinse layers well. Slice leek thinly crosswise. Melt the butter in an 8- to 9- inch-wide sauté pan over medium-high heat and add leek; sprinkle with salt. Cook, stirring often, until leek is very soft, about 5 minutes. Pour in the wine and cook until almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, broth, and tarragon and bring to a boil. Stir in the peas, reduce heat to medium, and simmer, uncovered, until peas are just tender, 5 to 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, rinse the salmon and pat dry with paper towels. Cut fish crosswise into strips about 2 inches wide, then cut strips into 2-inch pieces.

When peas are tender, stir the cream into pan and let come to a boil. Place salmon in pan and reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook until salmon is still slightly pink in center, about 5 minutes. Divide the cooked potatoes between 2 shallow bowls, ladle salmon ragout over, and garnish with extra tarragon leaves.

sicilian swordfish stew

This ancient dish is made with Sicily’s most famous ingredients: olives, capers, tomatoes, pine nuts, and of course, swordfish. Traditionally, the stew includes sultanas (golden raisins) for a sweet-sour contrast, but I prefer piney rosemary. To toast pine nuts, shake them in a small frying pan over medium-high heat for a few minutes until lightly browned. [SERVES 4]

Cut the swordfish into 1-inch strips, then cut into 1-inch pieces. Set aside.

In a 10- to 12-inch-wide sauté pan or frying pan, warm the oil over medium-high heat. Stir in the onion and cook, stirring often, until it starts to color, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in the wine and rosemary and let come to a boil. Add the swordfish, tomatoes, olives, and capers and let come to a boil, stirring gently. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until fish is opaque and tomatoes have broken down, about 8 minutes. Stir in the pine nuts, season with salt, and serve.

thai fish and corn curry

Making a Thai-style dish at home requires a few special ingredients; fortunately, most of them can be found at supermarkets. Look for lemongrass in the produce section, and fish sauce, curry paste, and canned coconut milk in the Asian or International section (Thai Kitchen is a very reliable brand). If you can’t find Thai or purple basil, use regular basil. Serve curry with steamed jasmine rice. [SERVES 4 TO 6]

Rinse the fish and pat dry with paper towels. Cut fish into 1-inch pieces (if using bay scallops, just rinse and pat dry). Set fish aside.

Peel tough outer leaves off the lemongrass, then trim 3 inches from tender bottom end of stalk. Chop this piece and put in a food processor. Trim root ends off the cilantro, then cut about 2 inches of stems off leaves and add to food processor; set cilantro leaves aside. Peel the ginger and cut into pieces; add to food processor. Peel the shallot and add to food processor. Whirl lemongrass, cilantro stems, ginger, and shallot in processor until finely minced. In a small bowl, stir together the lime juice, fish sauce, and sugar. Set ingredients aside.

In a 3- to 4-quart saucepan, warm the oil over medium-high heat and add lemongrass mixture from food processor; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the broth and corn. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until corn is just tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the curry paste, then the coconut milk and lime juice mixture and let come to a boil. Stir in fish or scallops, reduce heat, cover, and simmer until fish is cooked through, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in the basil and a handful of reserved cilantro leaves, and serve.

greek shrimp with zucchini and feta

This is one of my favorite throw-together dinners, especially when I see plump rock shrimp (which usually have not been previously frozen like other shrimp) in the market. It’s composed so that each layer absorbs the essence of the one before it, building deep flavor despite the simple preparation. Serve with Golden Pilaf or small pasta, such as orzo. [SERVES 4]

Warm the oil in a 10- to 12-inch-wide sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and garlic and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Sprinkle with the oregano and stir for a few seconds to warm the herb and release its flavors. Add the zucchini and stir to coat with oil, then shake pan to spread out zucchini. Sprinkle zucchini well with salt and let cook until starting to soften, about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and let mixture come to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until vegetables are cooked, about 10 minutes.

Remove lid and stir in the shrimp. Cover pan again and cook until shrimp are pink, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and divide among plates; sprinkle with the feta.

red-braised shrimp and tofu with bok choy

Ladle this healthy, quick, Chinese-style entrée over big bowls of steaming jasmine rice or brown rice. For best flavor, look for shrimp that haven’t previously been frozen, such as rock shrimp. [SERVES 4 TO 6]

In a measuring cup or bowl, stir together the broth, soy sauce, vinegar, and ketchup. Add the red pepper flakes to taste (1/4 teaspoon for medium heat; 1/2 teaspoon for hot). Set sauce aside.

In a large, heavy wok or 12-inch-wide sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When oil shimmers, add the shallot, ginger, and garlic and cook, stirring until fragrant, for 30 seconds. Add the tofu and green onions and stir until coated with aromatics. Stir in the bok choy and sauce mixture and let come to a boil, then reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the shrimp, cover again, and let cook 5 minutes more.

In a small bowl, stir the cornstarch into 1/4 cup water. Add to pan and cook, stirring, until sauce starts to thicken, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

portuguese clam and sausage stew

I love lunching at Hog Island Oyster Company in San Francisco’s Ferry Building, looking at the bay and eating a bowl of sausage and clams. The view at home may not be as spectacular, but the food can be. Use fresh Mexican (not dried Spanish) chorizo, or substitute hot Italian sausage. While Asian fish sauce may seem out of place here, it’s a trick to add depth of flavor. [SERVES 4 TO 6]

In a 10- to 12-inch-wide sauté or frying pan, warm the oil over medium-high heat and crumble in the sausage meat (discard casings). Stir sausage until it breaks up and starts to brown, then add the onion. Cook, stirring, until sausage is browned and onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes, 1 cup water, and fish sauce (if using), then add the beans. Let come to a boil, then reduce heat, cover, and simmer until thickened slightly, about 15 minutes.

Add the clams and shake pan to coat clams with sauce; increase heat to medium. Cover pan and cook until clams open, about 10 minutes (discard any that do not open). Stir in the parsley and serve.

spanish scallops

Scallops can be braised in much the same way as meat—quickly browned and deglazed to form a wonderful sauce—but it only takes minutes, so watch the clock closely. While this sauce is good enough to eat with shoe leather, offer Golden Pilaf, orzo pasta, or toasted bread to soak up every bit. [SERVES 4]

Make the romesco sauce up to 3 days ahead.

One by one, pull opaque tissue or “foot” off the side of each scallop and discard. Rinse scallops and pat dry with paper towels. Warm the oil and butter in a 10- to 12-inch-wide sauté pan or frying pan over medium-high heat. When foam subsides, put scallops in pan in a single layer. Cook, without stirring, until golden brown on the bottom, about 1 minute, then turn with tongs. Cook until golden brown on the other side, about 1 minute more. Transfer scallops to a plate with tongs.

Add the shallot and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Pour in the wine and let come to a boil, stirring to release browned bits. Pour in the cream and let come to a boil; season with a good pinch of salt. Put scallops back in pan and reduce heat, cover, and simmer until opaque through, about 3 minutes. Transfer scallops with tongs to shallow bowls. Stir romesco sauce into pan sauce, then pour over scallops, and serve immediately.