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THE MYTH OF THE ROMANCE

THE CUBAN PEOPLE ARE SO TIRED OF THESE OLD PIECES-OF-SHIT CARS,” SAID OUR TRANSLATOR, ABE. “THEY RUN ON NOTHING! IF THEY EVER HAVE A CHANCE TO BUY A NEW CAR, THEY WILL!”

SO MANY TV SHOWS AND MAGAZINE STORIES HAVE BEEN WRITTEN ABOUT THE LOVE AFFAIRS THAT CUBAN OWNERS HAVE WITH THEIR CARS, AND HOW METICULOUSLY RESTORED AND CARED FOR THEY ARE.

NOPE.

ABE VOCALIZES WHAT NEARLY EVERY CUBAN FEELS, BUT CANNOT SAY, FOR FEAR OF RETALIATION. THE TRUTH IS THAT THEY HOLD NO ROMANCE IN THE OLD CARS THEY DRIVE; THAT ROMANCE EXISTS ONLY FOR THE TOURISTS WHO HAVE NOT SEEN SIMILAR CARS FOR HALF A CENTURY.

A 1958 Chevy is parked on a stone-paved street in downtown Havana. Merten Snijders/Getty Images

Cubans repair and use these old cars because that’s all they can do—there are no alternatives. It’s necessity, not a love affair.

These cars provide incomes to thousands of residents who might not have another way to scrape together a living in this failing economy. “Once the Russian economy collapsed, and we stopped receiving support from the Soviets, we started to receive tourists again,” said Abe.

“Now Cubans look forward to better relations between our two countries, so they are all trying to get their cars in better condition.”

CUBA’S BLACK MARKET

During our first trip to Cuba back in 2009, we were naïve and actually believed that folks survived on the equivalent of just $5 in US dollars a week. While that may be true in some cases, probably for farmers and those living in the rural parts of the country, that rule does not apply to everyone.

At CUC$20 per month—the government stipend each Cuban citizen receives regardless of whether they are a doctor or a street sweeper—a citizen cannot save CUC$30,000 in their lifetime to buy a used car. According to Abe, twenty bucks a month is not enough to pay the power bill and buy groceries.

Obviously, some owners have the time and the financial wherewithal to keep their cars in better-than-average condition. This 1951 Pontiac is one of the best cars we saw.

Chevrolets are still very popular in Cuba, as witnessed by this lineup. Left to right are a 1954, a 1952, and a 1950, all in livery service by the train station.

In addition to the stipend, each Cuban citizen receives a small amount of chicken, sugar, and a few other necessities. But residents have found often ingenious ways to supplement their meager salaries.

It’s ironic that one of the Earth’s last strongholds of Communism is also a breeding ground for capitalism and entrepreneurship. So many people have “side deals” that there is actually a healthy underground economy—and for some, a thriving one. Cubans often turn their dining rooms into makeshift restaurants that offer tourists the chance to taste authentic, home-cooked island food. Those handy with tools will do auto repairs literally in the street, performing everything from brake jobs to engine rebuilds on the side of the road. And there are plenty of English-speaking Cubans who will make their services available as translators and tour guides for tourists.

“In Cuba, people pretend to work, and the government pretends to pay,” is what we were told by one tour guide. He also gave us this bit of wisdom: “Cuba is the only country where you can live without working, but you can’t live if you work.”

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NON-WOOD WOODIES

It’s odd to see a 1940s-vintage Ford station wagon without any wood at all, but with an all-steel body. In the States, Ford woody wagons were built with wood bodies from the Model T era all the way to 1951, but somehow Cuba became the recipient of coach-built steel station wagons before the States did. Where did those cars come from? Were they built in Cuba or in the United States? Nobody was able to give us answers.

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Ellen Rooney/Robert Harding/Getty Images

A real “late model,” the 1960 Ford in the foreground must be one of the last American cars to be shipped to Cuba before the embargo was put into effect.

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TRAVELING TO AND AROUND CUBA

The first time I visited Cuba, in 2009, I was pulled aside in the airport customs area for a lengthy “routine” check. While my four traveling companions patiently waited in the crowded baggage claim area, I was asked many questions about the purpose of my visit to Cuba.

After about thirty minutes, I was released. I suppose a person is chosen at random from every flight, and this time I was the lucky guinea pig. When I walked outside the airport, I noticed armed guards with machine guns stationed at the corners of the terminal. Good thing I didn’t try to bolt while I was being questioned.

—TOM COTTER

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In automotive terms, this underground economy explains how a rough but running 1958 Chevy four-door sedan could be se vende (for sale) with an asking price equivalent to roughly US$35,000. That same car in the States could be purchased for one-third that amount. And the stateside car would certainly be in better condition, with more original parts still intact.

It’s all about supply and demand; fewer cars on the market mean consumers must pay top dollar to purchase one. And purchasing a car is only possible because of the flourishing black market.

It appears that the Cuban government simply turns a blind eye to this parallel economy. The personal incomes of many everyday Cubans are likely several times larger than they admit.

The face of Che Guevara festoons a building at the Plaza de la Revolución. Albin Hillert/Shutterstock

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