Peony
PAEONIA
ONE OF THE FLOWERS I MOST LOOK FORWARD TO SEEING EACH SPRING IS THE PEONY. IN THE GARDEN AT MY FARM, I HAVE CONCENTRATED ON THE CULTURE OF HERBACEOUS PEONIES AS WELL AS TREE PEONIES. ALTHOUGH RELATED, HERBACEOUS PEONIES BLOOM ON SOFT STEMS, WHICH DIE BACK TO THE GROUND EACH AUTUMN AND REEMERGE THE FOLLOWING YEAR.
Tree peonies bloom on woody branches much like those of trees. The form remains all year long, and it is important never to prune the tree peony unless removing dead wood. The most prized varieties of this type of peony are large, ornamental, tree-like shrubs that produce hundreds of blooms every year. With proper care and feeding, either type of peony should thrive and produce for many years in the garden.
Influenced by writers like Vita Sackville-West and Elizabeth von Arnim, both of whom grew lovely peonies, I was determined to have as many of these beautiful flowers as I could. For my first large peony garden, comprised of more than five hundred plants, I chose to stick to a pink palette, ranging from almost white to blush to pink to deeper rose. I conferred with my friend Roy Klehm, owner of Song Sparrow farm in Avalon, Wisconsin. He directed me to varieties that would bloom over a period of about three to four weeks and would produce an abundance of gorgeous cut flowers. For years now, my friends and I have enjoyed a tremendous flower display each year in the large peony garden, and reveled in the beauty and proliferation of all those plants.
On my first trip to China in the 1970s, I visited Hangzhou, the capital of Zhejiang province, where the ancient Grand Canal waterway ends (it originates far away, in Beijing). The West Lake is the terminus, surrounded by gardens, pavilions, and arched bridges. It was there where I had my first glimpse of the amazing tree peonies that have grown in China for thousands of years. The shrubs were much taller than I and were blooming profusely. This flower is now the national flower of China, where it is known as moutan. About a thousand years ago tree peonies were transported to Japan, where gardeners took a great liking to this incredible flower, and they have hybridized many different types. The display of Japanese tree peonies in the Imperial Gardens is an incredible sight. Now, thanks to great suppliers, tree peonies are more readily available worldwide and even just a few of these plants make any garden extraordinary.
I have grown peonies in my Turkey Hill garden, in East Hampton, and now at the farm in Katonah. In 2011, Kevin and I created a story and video for the first digital edition of Martha Stewart Living, as well as for my daily show. I picked and Kevin arranged, and that was when the idea for this book came about. We made such a good team, and we collaborated very well—agreeing more often than not about how we should display the wonderful flowers, how we should enhance them with additional blooms and foliage—and we had a good deal of fun determining which containers were good for which flowers. I have also made an annual or semiannual peony party a tradition at the farm—it is special to see so many utterly beautiful plants blooming at the same time!
This Japanese ginger jar was given to me many years ago. Until then, I had never seen a yellow, peach, or mauve tree peony, but obviously the painter of the bowl had. Finally my tree peonies have matured and now provide blooms of almost the same colors. Here, the flowers (a mix of old-fashioned peonies and Itoh hybrids) are paired with Heuchera, a perennial that loves shade in the garden and has heart-shaped leaves in hues of green, yellow, rust, brown, purple, and nearly black.
It’s easy to see why the Chinese called the herbaceous peony sho yo, “most beautiful.” Here, morning dew clings to the leaves and intricately ruffled blooms of one of the many pink peonies at the farm in Katonah, a very full crown-form ‘Madame de Verneville’. Early morning is the best time to cut peonies; gathering them in the cool of the day means they are much less likely to wilt.
GROWING & ARRANGING
PEONIES DON’T REQUIRE COMPLEX FERTILIZATION, SPRAYING, PRUNING, OR DIVIDING, AND THEY CAN LIVE A LONG, LONG TIME. WITH THEIR HARDY NATURES AND BEAUTIFUL BLOOMS, IT’S NO WONDER BOTH HERBACEOUS AND TREE PEONIES ARE A PERENNIAL GARDENER’S DREAM.
To keep peonies blooming in the garden for an extended period, we planted early, mid-, and late-season bloomers, so throughout the season, some are in bud and about to bloom, while others are already in full blossom. Here, the herbaceous peony garden in Katonah is shown just a few weeks before bloom (top), buds straining at their seams. The ‘Martha’ variety (the name is a happy coincidence) is beautiful in bloom (bottom left) and in bud (bottom right).
When we designed the peony garden, we concentrated on pink cultivars in masses; to date, we have more than twenty-two varieties in eleven double beds. Comprised of dozens of single, semi-double, double, and anemone-type blossoms, the peonies are from Klehm’s Song Sparrow in Avalon, Wisconsin. To support the plants, a web of natural jute twine is woven crosswise and diagonally and threaded through the eyelet tops of aluminum stakes. The vast beds of the peony garden are surrounded by a double row of round and oval boxwoods.
HOW TO GROW
Most peonies (Paeonia) are a cinch to grow once you understand their basic needs: at least six to eight hours of full summer sun and well-drained soil that’s relatively free of competing plant roots. They don’t take well to transplanting, so choose your location wisely. Peonies are deer resistant, making them very appealing to rural gardeners. A mature plant can produce more than one hundred flowers and each bloom can reach a size of 10 inches or more in diameter. Though the blooming season is short, peony plants offer handsome rich-green foliage that will stay vibrant in the garden until late fall, with some varieties turning a deep-red or copper color.
Peonies are generally divided into two groups: herbaceous peonies (P. lactiflora), which are perennials that grow to about 3 feet tall and die back to the ground each winter, and slow-growing, woody-stemmed tree peonies (P. suffruticosa), which can reach up to 6 feet at maturity (some can grow even taller with enough time and proper pruning). A third, newer group is that of intersectional peony hybrids (Itohs), which combine the traits of both, creating herbaceous plants with the flowers and foliage of a tree variety.
Tree peony cultivars have petals of shiny satin, while those from herbaceous peonies resemble a filmy silk. With their smaller stature, herbaceous peonies are especially versatile in a garden and, as one of the hardiest perennials, can easily outlive the gardeners who plant them. Though tree peonies remain slightly more expensive than their more popular herbaceous cousins, growing only one peony type is a missed opportunity for variety in your garden. Try planting plenty of herbaceous peonies to bloom in masses, but also plan for a few magnificent tree peonies. They can take three to four years after planting to come into full bloom—but when properly situated and planted, they are as close to immortal as any garden plant.
ZONE Native to dry, chilly mountainsides, most herbaceous peonies are hardy in Zones 2 to 7, but some varieties are suitable as far south as Zone 8. Tree peonies grow well in Zones 4 to 8, and some in Zone 9 on the Pacific coast. Though all peonies require winter chilling (four hundred hours of temperatures below 32 degrees) in order to flower, early bloomers, such as ‘Abalone Pearl’, are best in mild regions with hot summers because they open before the wilting heat. In regions with heavy summer rain, choose single forms and Japanese varieties, which don’t collect water in their blossoms.
SOIL Peony shrubs prefer a neutral to slightly alkaline soil that is well drained. Tree peonies have sensitive roots, so be sure to amend the soil in and around the planting hole with compost and, if the soil is acidic (pH scale between zero and 5.5), with lime; tree peonies prefer their sites slightly alkaline. The soil at the farm in Katonah has a pH of 6.5 to 7.0, which is ideal for growing peonies. We amend the soil there with superphosphate and Azomite, a natural product mined from ancient mineral deposits. These additives improve root systems and overall vigor, resulting in fantastic blooms.
LIGHT Full sunlight will yield the heftiest herbaceous peony blooms, so choose a location with direct sun—or dappled sun and shade all day. Sun-loving peonies will still flower when exposed to a little afternoon shade, and the blooms can last even longer. A place with protection from drying winds is also helpful; make sure there will be a lot of sun during the blooming season, mid-May to mid-June. Tree peonies can flourish in full sun or partial shade. They grow better and bloom more profusely in full sun, but the blossoms don’t blow open as quickly when the plant is situated in some shade. Gardeners in warmer, southern zones (8 to 10) should choose sites in partial shade.
CHOOSING Herbaceous peony roots consist of the eyes (pink growth buds), crown or brain tissue, and root system full of stored energy. When choosing peonies, look for fleshy, firm roots (like firm carrots) and abundant eyes, as roots with at least three to five eyes (not too many sprouted) will acclimate best to new planting conditions. Unpack and examine the roots: look for a mass of thick roots that are not brittle; if dry, soak them in water for a few hours.
PLANTING Always plant herbaceous peonies in the fall—as early as late August until November, about six weeks before the first frost is expected. Fall is also the best season to plant tree peonies, in order to encourage them to develop new roots and acclimate in time for normal growth the following spring. Spring-planted peonies may suffer for two to three years with lackluster blooms.
To plant, start by digging a hole 2 feet wide and deep. Turn the soil, and replace half of it with compost. Firm the soil at the bottom so the peony will not sink after planting, and then create a small mound of dirt and compost. Make sure the eyes are pointing upward and position the topmost eye just 2 inches below ground level. Spread the roots out over the mound you’ve created, and be sure to space plantings 3 to 4 feet apart for good air circulation. It’s important to water thoroughly; you want to saturate the soil (pay attention to your soil type; clay or sandy soil may not drain efficiently) and let the thirsty plant take a long drink.
When planting tree peonies, make sure the graft union (the point where the root meets the trunk) is about 1 inch below the soil. To support their boisterous growth, insert metal hoop guards into the soil, steering clear of roots. Cover soil with 2 inches of shredded-leaf or fine hardwood-bark mulch.
WATERING Water all types of peonies well during the first spring and summer (about an inch of water twice a week, depending on your climate and soil). In subsequent years, keep soil moist but not soggy during the growing season. Use your hands to test the soil below the surface; excess water will suffocate the roots, so do not water until the soil is dry underneath. Once established, tree peonies are very drought-tolerant plants.
FERTILIZING In early spring, when herbaceous peony plants are a foot tall, apply a fertilizer formulated for roses; feed again after snipping off dead blooms. These formulations work just as well for peony plants, and can be used for tree peonies, as well—apply generously in the early autumn. In most regions, excepting truly arid climates, tucking in tree peonies with an additional blanket of organic mulch will ensure sufficient soil moisture through the winter. In the spring, add a light sprinkling of general fertilizer or compost; or, for young trees, drench them with fish emulsion.
PRUNING Don’t leave faded flowers on your herbaceous peony plants, as they will sap the plant’s energy and compromise the livelier blooms. Deadhead any spent flowers, along with a couple of inches of stem. As the plants die back to ground level, the leaves will slowly turn with the season; when they have completely browned, cut the stems to the ground, leaving only an inch or so (to help you remember where the plants are located).
It is important not to cut back tree peonies as you would herbaceous ones. Many years ago, there was a mix-up in my garden in Westport, and all the tree peonies were pruned to the ground. If this happens to you, know that while they’ll never be trees again, they can grow back as bushy plants. In the meantime, make sure everyone who works in the garden knows the difference, and simply remove any fallen leaves from your tree peonies. Keep in mind that the trees set their buds in the late summer (into fall), so any cutting should be done right after they flower in order to prevent the loss of next season’s blossoms. At Katonah, we prune the tree peonies to a height of 4 to 5 feet tall, only cutting dead wood and spent flowers, to let the blooms live at a comfortable eye level.
TROUBLESHOOTING If your peonies won’t bloom, it’s most likely due to improper planting depth, spring planting, or disease. When planting, make sure there’s plenty of air circulation around the plant to help prevent fungal diseases like peony wilt, which can cause the foliage of both types of peonies to collapse and the flowers to die before opening. Watch your plants for spotted leaves, mushy stems, or blackened buds, which may indicate other fungal problems like botrytis blight. If you see symptoms, such as buds covered in a fuzzy gray mold that spreads down the stem, remove infected portions, discard them, and clean your shears with alcohol. Thrips are another problem; these tiny pests damage buds and flowers by sucking their juices. To check for them, shake the buds over white paper—any small gray, brown, or yellow cigar-shaped insects are thrips. Remove and discard any affected buds.
Peonies are often associated with another insect: ants. The flower buds produce large quantities of nectar, and the attracted ants in turn provide protection against harmful insects. The ants won’t harm the flowers (we have a small population that like the herbaceous peonies in Katonah). Simply use a gentle spray of water or shake off the insects before bringing any cut flowers inside.
From bud to full bloom, peonies are garden showstoppers. ‘Rumpled Rose Ruffles’ is a showy tree peony that comes in various shades of pink. As the name implies, it has highly ruffled petals on a strong stem. For the longest life in an arrangement, cut stems of the herbaceous peony when the bud is still fairly tight. Day by day, the arrangement will change as petals unfurl and the inner carpel and stamens are exposed, as in these tree and hybrid peony blooms including ‘Anna Marie’ and ‘Leda’ varieties.
HOW TO ARRANGE
CUTTING Herbaceous peonies make excellent cut flowers, and are best cut in bud form so they can open in the vase. Always cut flowers early in the morning or very late in the afternoon, when it’s cool. Harvest buds when they are still fairly tight: you may see some cracks of color beginning to peek through, and the bud should feel like a firm marshmallow to the touch. “But, of course, when they’re full blown,” Kevin says, “they are at their most luscious; I try to pick them when they’re budded but just about ready to pop.” He recommends cutting the stems of herbaceous peonies as long as possible, and at an angle. These stems are sturdy, making them ideal for long, tall vessels and grand arrangements.
Handle tree peonies in an opposite manner: They have woody stems that must be cut very short. Cut the branch at a point between where the flower attaches and the leaves begin. You can sometimes include a leaf, but never cut a stem more than 2 to 4 inches long. This way, you’ll avoid jeopardizing next year’s crop of blossoms, and ensure that the cut flower will be able to draw up enough water. Tree peonies are excellent floated in bowls of water or placed in low arrangements.
MAINTAINING Peony arrangements can last up to a week or more if kept in a cool place and replenished with fresh water, so it’s important to change the water daily. Be aware that when petals start to drop, they tend to come off in clumps. Herbaceous peonies can also be stored when cut in bud form. Wrap them, dry, in newspaper—stems, buds, and all—and place them on their sides in the refrigerator for a month or longer. Keep them as dry as possible in storage, as any dampness can encourage fungus. For shorter-term storage, put the stems in water and wrap the rest in a plastic sleeve, then place in the fridge for up to a week. The buds will bloom when returned to room temperature.
ARRANGING Peony blossoms look equally lovely in bud form, half furled, or in full bloom, and you can include flowers in all of these various stages in your arrangement. Tight peony buds can lend a painterly accent to an arrangement, while full-blown peonies offer a sense of mass that can serve as a canvas for showing off other elements, such as the silhouette of a hosta leaf against a background of fluffy white blooms.
In springtime, the colorful buds of emerging peonies look especially beautiful with pale-pink tulips. Peonies can also pair well in arrangements with Siberian and bearded irises. In autumn, when the blooms are gone, mix the bronzed leaves with dark-colored asters or dahlias. “I like to pair peonies with something that’s smaller and more delicate, like fuchsia blossoms, or something airy, like smoke bush,” Kevin notes, “because the smaller, daintier flowers allow you to appreciate how robust and gorgeous the peony blooms are. And peonies take up a lot of space in an arrangement, which not all flowers do, so they’re useful on a large scale.”
A mix of different varieties and shapes of peonies within an arrangement is especially nice, as they complement one another while providing a visual glossary of all their different forms. Peonies don’t always need to be arranged en masse in order to make a statement; a giant tree peony blossom can make a visual impact all its own. Kevin’s number one tip is not to forget about a flower’s profile, especially when it comes to peonies. Most people think of a peony bloom only from directly above, but it can be just as beautiful in silhouette. “The crown-form ‘Brother Chuck’ white peony has always been one of my favorites; it has a cuff of outer petals that makes it look like a coconut macaroon, especially in profile.”
Just-picked bicolor ‘Dream Catcher’ peonies in glorious full bloom are placed in tall collecting containers of water to keep them fresh. Yet the peonies look as lush and gorgeous as they would in any decorative vase, their sunny centers mirroring the pale yellow of the farm’s signature Cantitoe Corners buckets. Casual yet elegant, they’re a perfect addition to an outdoor table.