Lily

LILIUM

I WAS INTRODUCED TO GARDEN LILIES BY MY FATHER WHEN I WAS ABOUT TEN YEARS OLD. ONE YEAR, HE GREW IMMENSE WHITE LILIES THAT WERE DOTTED WITH DEEP PINK. THE NEXT YEAR, THE NEW LILIES WERE MASSIVE WHITE TRUMPETS THAT HE CALLED EASTER LILIES.

When I was in high school, I entered another of Dad’s lilies, which looked a lot like the famous ‘Stargazer’ (a dotted bright pink blossom with white edges), in a flower-arranging contest held at the Women’s Club of Nutley. It was a rather simple arrangement of two lily stalks topped with several huge flowers in a tall, square, silver-luster container. I called it “Fourth of July.” I was so happy when it won a blue ribbon, and so was Dad. I encouraged him to plant more lilies. The bulbs were expensive and we were always on a budget, but he splurged for me and bought several each year. They grew very nicely in his garden, getting stronger and taller, so the investment proved worthwhile.

When I planted my first big garden, Turkey Hill, I continued to invest in lily bulbs, planting them throughout my Monet-inspired perennial beds to grow up through the columbines, Thalictrum, and the monkshood. I preferred, and still do, the tall upfacing Oriental and trumpet lilies to the Asiatic varieties. But the Aurelians (Asiatic hybrids) and Asiatics have changed drastically in the last couple of decades, and most lilies of all kinds are gorgeous. And now some of the bulb suppliers are shipping amazing examples of Orienpet hybrids, which reach 8 feet in height and are strong, fragrant, and extremely productive. Even the tallest of these lilies needs no staking.

In Maine and Katonah, I grow hundreds of Oriental and Orienpet lilies, and have also discovered the graceful and colorful Turk’s cap lilies called Martagons as well as the Japanese Lilium speciosum. In some of the older planted areas at Skylands, designed long ago by renowned landscape architect Jens Jensen, the orange Turk’s cap lilies grow throughout the laurel and moss, blooming every July and early August. The stalks are tall and graceful, and each has evenly spaced, outward-facing flowers—ten to fourteen per stem. These lilies seed themselves rather easily, it seems, wherever they can find a patch of dirt that has some depth. I have never attempted to transplant these treasures, and I have never seen such lilies offered in catalogs. I just consider myself lucky to have them, and I do what I can to protect them from deer, who love grazing in the woodlands, munching on small trees, flowers, and whatever else they can find.

Deep rich soil and lots of sun are essential elements in growing great lilies. In East Hampton, I grow only ‘Casablanca’, one of the most beautiful Oriental lilies. The variety was introduced in 1987 by B&D Lilies, and I highly recommend it. The striking outfacing blooms look great in a white garden, and the bulbs thrive year after year. I have successfully transplanted these lilies, after bloom and once the foliage turns brown, and am amazed to see the size that the bulbs attain after four or five years.

I was introduced to a new variety, the Formosa lily, by Dennis Schrader of Landcraft Environments nursery on the North Fork of Long Island. He has fields of these tall self-seeding natives from Taiwan. The lilies are long, white, funnel-shaped trumpets on 4- to 7-foot stems. The flowers are shaded wine-purple on the outer petals, and their scent is absolutely heavenly. They are a must for every flower garden, though once cut, they are not as long-lived as Oriental lilies.

In Maine as well as in Katonah, I plant lots of lilies just for cutting and arranging. Lilies are wonderful for about two months of bloom in the cutting gardens, affording me lots of stems for giant arrangements or for smaller bud vases. In East Hampton, we spend most of our time outdoors and I rarely cut the flowers, preferring to enjoy them while outside, where the scent perfumes the air.

A note of warning: Plant according to directions, digging deep enough and at the correct time of year. I like to plant every bulb in the autumn, permitting them to take hold prior to the freezing of the winter months, although some are shipped only in spring. Remember, also, that planting as soon as the bulbs arrive is a very good habit.

When you have a vase that’s as striking as this twentieth-century Italian mantel urn, take your color cues from it. Here, Kevin arranged bright yellow Turk’s cap lilies (both in bloom and in bud), along with sunny daisies, filbert leaves, and the dark contrast of raspberries and dramatic Cimicifuga leaves. He then placed a single white L. auratum ‘Gold Band’ lily at the center to grab attention. Taking into consideration the urn’s narrow neck, he chose these particular flowers for their slender stems and exuberant blooms; the end result is a perfectly balanced arrangement.

At the entrance to the Summer House in Katonah, a cement faux-bois planter stands sentry. Overflowing with tall white ‘Rexona’ lilies and asparagus plants (the edible variety, left to open and fern), this arrangement defies all conventions of restraint, reaching sky-high even as it hangs over the top steps. Abundant greenery seems to fill every nook and cranny, while the monochromatic palette gets tiny pops of contrast in the form of the lilies’ pollen-rich stamens.

GROWING & ARRANGING

DESPITE THEIR ELABORATE APPEARANCE, LILIES ARE UNFUSSY, WHETHER THE BRILLIANTLY COLORED ASIATIC VARIETY OR THE GRACEFUL TURK’S CAP. ON THE FARM IN KATONAH AND AT MY HOME IN MAINE, THESE GORGEOUS, STURDY FLOWERS HAVE BECOME TRUE STAPLES—OUTSIDE AND INDOORS.

Lilies, such as the striking pink ‘On Stage’ variety, add bright color and heady fragrance to the summer garden. They’re very adaptable to their surroundings, and are as content in a group as they are in a row. I planted this group of Orienpets surrounded by large plots of lavender and Ageratum.

HOW TO GROW

It doesn’t take much to keep lilies happy, but there are a few must-dos. Give them full sun to partial shade (the flowers need sun, but the roots need cool soil). They like well-drained soil that is enriched with organic compost and that is amended a few times a year to keep it that way.

ZONE Lilies require a period of dormancy and cold, so are healthier in the cooler zones of this range. Asiatic lilies grow from Zones 4 to 9, with a few varieties in Zone 10. Martagons (or Turk’s cap lilies) are hardy in Zones 3 to 9. Trumpet lilies are best in Zones 5 to 9, and Oriental lilies in Zones 3 to 9.

SOIL Lilies are adaptable to any soil that has been amended with good organic compost and an all-purpose organic fertilizer that’s high in phosphorus (the middle number in the indication of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium; 0:45:0 is one example). Most species and their hybrids respond best to soils that are either neutral or slightly acidic, though a few, including L. martagon and L. regale, are tolerant of alkaline conditions. They will not thrive in perpetually moist conditions, however, so make sure the soil is very well drained.

LIGHT Lilies love at least six hours of bright sun daily. However, because the roots require cool soil, you can overplant them with ground covers and herbaceous perennials, as we do on the farm, so that the buds and blooms are in full sun but the roots are shaded. More delicate varieties require a bit more shade.

CHOOSING Be sure that bulbs show no sign of rot, such as mushy spots; avoid any with diseased portions. Lily bulbs don’t have the same protective layers as those of the tulip, so there may be a higher risk of damage from improper storage. Bulbs should be hydrated and appear rounded (not flat or squashed). Always keep them out of sunlight.

PLANTING Although you can plant lily bulbs in early spring, it’s best to plant them in autumn, a couple of weeks before the ground freezes (those planted in spring take a year to catch up). Plant the bulbs immediately, if you can, and keep them out of direct sunlight. As important, plant deep. Lilies need a depth of two to three times the bulb’s height. For instance, if the bulb is 2 inches from tip to base, plant no less than 4 inches below the ground level. Their primary feeder roots grow from the underground part of the stem; roots growing from the bulb base are anchors.

A good rule for spacing bulbs is to plant as far apart as the depth you plant. For each lily, dig a relatively large hole, and incorporate organic matter like well-rotted manure or peat moss plus a half cup of high-phosphorus, low-nitrogen fertilizer into the soil.

WATERING Plants should be watered regularly, only during the dry season and when in bloom. Focus water at the base and off petals. Make sure that the soil drains well. If water pools in the garden, lilies will rot.

FERTILIZING Lilies are heavy feeders, so give them an organic phosphorus-heavy fertilizer, or top-dress with a tablespoon of tomato fertilizer in springtime when the shoots emerge, and again as they flower.

PRUNING An important (and time-consuming) part of maintaining lilies is to deadhead the spent flowers (but leave the stems). If you don’t snip off the dead bloom cluster, it will develop a seedpod, which uses up a lot of the plant’s energy that should instead be devoted to fueling the bulb. Once the plant has finished for the season and the stalks are fully brown, cut them down to about an inch from the ground.

TROUBLESHOOTING Lily problems are generally controllable and shouldn’t be worrisome. Modern hybrids are resistant but not immune to devastating aphid-borne viruses. Plant tiger lilies (L. lancifolium), which are quite prone to viral infections, at least 100 feet from other lilies. If you know your area is at risk for such infections, spray preventively, before there are any signs of disease. Watch for the scarlet lily beetle, which is now found in the Northeast. Be vigilant about handpicking adults and eggs; you can spray larvae—aphids, too—with neem oil, a natural pesticide. Deer love the flavor of lily buds, so spray the plants with an organic repellent.

If a lily display begins to suffer or several stems appear, don’t despair; the multiplying bulbs are simply crowded. Carefully dig, separate, and replant after the leaves yellow.

Lemony-yellow lilies welcome visitors to the garden behind the Summer House in Katonah. We planted them amid plentiful shrubs so that their extended roots would stay cool in the partial shade the shrubs provide, while their stems and buds get the full sun they need to grow and flower. I stake some of the taller lilies, like ‘Gold Sceptre’ (bottom left) and ‘Silk Road’ (bottom right), which can reach 8 feet, with bamboo to keep them upright.

HOW TO ARRANGE

CUTTING Cut the stems so that more than two-thirds of their leaves remain on the plants; after blooming, the foliage produces essential nutrients. Trim stems at a 45-degree angle so the flowers can take in more water. Take care with the pollen from the lily’s stamens—it can stain fabrics and irritate skin. If you’re planning to arrange with them, it’s a good idea to remove the stamens while you’re still in the garden: slip on a pair of latex gloves and simply pull off the stamens. That said, if you like the look and texture of them, leave them on—but be aware of nearby clothing or upholstery.

As with tulips, the more stem you leave in the garden, the healthier the plant will be for next year. Kevin prefers to cut long stems for arranging, while I tend to leave more on the plant. Whatever you decide, try not to cut more than half of the total stem length.

MAINTAINING Be sure to strip leaves that would sit below the waterline, and watch for falling stamens. Fill the vase with clean water, and set your arrangement in a cool spot out of direct sunlight. Every couple of days, change the water and retrim the stems. Lilies usually remain fresh for ten days, and sometimes last even longer.

ARRANGING The structure of a stem of lilies is interesting on its own. Avoid crowding lilies in a vase, and experiment with letting just one stem be enough. The Turk’s cap lily is brilliant for arranging: its orange petals (covered with maroon spots) curve backward to touch the stem—the graceful shape is the source of the “turk’s cap” name.

Lilies can grow very tall (up to 8 feet), so a tall vase is typically in order. At the opposite extreme, you can cut off the blossoms and put them in small bud vases, accompanied by foliage such as a fern frond. Many lilies have multiple colors, so pair them with solid-colored flowers to make the arrangement come together. I like to mix the tubular white trumpets of elegant Asiatic lilies with beautifully spiky verbena. Kevin loves lilies on their own, arranged with some of their leaves or as part of a low-profile centerpiece.

If buying lilies to arrange, choose buds that are just cracking open. If the stems are cut too early, the top buds may not open at all. If the lilies have already bloomed, they will last only a few days. Examine them to ensure that they’re in great shape—the petals should not be bruised. Also, keep fragrance in mind when choosing a variety. Some (such as ‘Casablanca’) are quite overpowering.

One way to have flowers in the house but maintain the abundance of the garden at the same time is to cut a single lily stem—one that has multiple flowers in bloom as well as buds about to burst. With one stalk you can make small arrangements for an impactful, yet economical display. Let them soar to accentuate the stems, or keep them low with florets. With a flower like L. auratum ‘Gold Band’, which is so singularly beautiful with its 10-inch gold-striped, crimson-spotted blossoms, simply place in a blown-glass decanter. Other varieties include fragrant pink ‘Blushing Angel’ and the rosy-centered ‘Passion Moon’, creamy L. regale, pendant gold and white ‘Mister Cas’ in bud and blossom, sunny ‘Corcovado’, and melon-hued July-blooming ‘African Queen’.

An arrangement can be a study in contrasts, of light and dark, of shapes and moods. Here, I combined the white trumpet of tall Formosa lilies with compact Verbena bonariensis and the swooping dark “wings” and white trailing tendrils of the bat flower, Tacca chantrieri, a beautifully haunting Southeast Asian tropical plant grown in my greenhouse (it also comes in dramatic black). The slender Art Deco vase with its wavy top, mimicking a jack-in-the-pulpit, focuses all eyes on this eccentric assembly of flowers.

A bronze urn in the living room at Skylands holds a massive arrangement of ‘Satisfaction’ trumpet lilies. Kevin relied on the strong stems (some the width of a quarter) to build a base in a bucket within the urn. Working from the bottom up, start with shorter stems and then add the taller, for a fiery display that shows off the petals from every angle.

Lilies easily take center stage in any arrangement, due to their distinctive shape. With just a dozen blooms of a few varieties from the Katonah garden, arranged in a multichambered vase, they make a strong yet unembellished statement. Varieties include ‘Pink Perfection’, L. regale, ‘Stargazer’, and ‘Gizmo’.

Using a cage set into a cement faux-bois basket, Kevin created a floral waterfall effect. The papery cups of the annual bells of Ireland (Moluccella laevis) grow upright, but when turned and inserted upside down, they create a foam of green spilling over the basket edge. The distinctive curved and spotted orange blossoms of L. martagon are positioned to flow over the bells, and woodland ferns echo the green, but in a more feathery, outward-reaching form.

In late summer and early autumn, there are still plenty of flowers in bloom in the Skylands garden, including sunflowers, rudbeckias, Gomphrena, and astilbe. Another advantage of planning our plantings to last the growing season is this final blast of color, just as we are starting to think about putting the garden to bed for the year.