19
In many high-powered professions, such as law and banking, the necktie remains an everyday fact of life, but even in those professions, it is no longer taken for granted as an obligatory part of the daily dress code. Neckties, however, remain one of the defining factors of the dress codes for many social occasions. (Is it a “black tie” dinner? Is it a “white tie” dance? Even if there’s no real “dress code,” must I wear a tie to a funeral? Can I get by with a black turtleneck?) Thus, learning which tie to wear and how to tie it— in a variety of knots—remains one of the rituals of training for the gentlemanly life.
20
A gentleman selects his necktie so that it
complements his suit jacket or sports coat.
A gentleman knows that a necktie in a
deep red, such as crimson, complements
almost any jacket.
A gentleman never wears a necktie
that precisely matches his pocket-handkerchief.
A gentleman ties his own bow tie.
Knowing that he will be called upon to tie
his own bow tie, a gentleman practices
ahead of time—the day or even the week
before he expects to get dressed up.
A gentleman ties his standard necktie so
that its tip grazes his waistband.
21
If a gentleman ties his necktie only to
discover that two shirt buttons have been
left exposed, he ties his tie again.
A gentleman never tucks his over-long
necktie into the waistband of his trousers.
A tall or heavy-built gentleman is well
advised to purchase extra-long neckties.
A gentleman avoids wearing tie
tacks or tie bars, even if they hold
sentimental value for him.
A gentleman brushes his teeth before
putting on his tie—even if it is a bow tie.
When tightening his tie, a gentleman
gathers the fabric into one simple dimple,
to give the knot a finished look and to
avoid overly wrinkling the fabric.
22
When a gentleman washes his hands, he
tosses the ends of his necktie behind his
neck to avoid spotting them with water.
At all times, but especially on formal
occasions, a gentleman is careful not to
dribble food on his tie and shirtfront.
Nevertheless, except at the most casual
gatherings for pizza or pasta, he never
tucks his napkin into the neck of his shirt.
Instead, he learns not to overload his
fork and spoon when transporting messy
sauces from table to tongue.
A gentleman is wary of neckties that have
hung in his closet the past fifteen years
without being worn. A style change of as
little as a quarter inch can transform an
otherwise beautiful tie into a fashion relic.
Whether his tie is a recent purchase or an
old favorite, a gentleman always checks it
for food stains and fabric snags.
23
A gentleman wears an ascot only if he is
also wearing a velvet smoking jacket and a
pair of embroidered slippers.
If a gentleman chooses to wear an
ascot, a velvet smoking jacket, or a
pair of embroidered slippers, he pays
the price for his decision.