40
Whether it is the crisply laundered shirt he puts on for a job interview, the polo shirt he wears at the office, the wing-collar formal shirt he brings out only for weddings, or the T-shirt he pulls on to run errands on Saturday, a gentleman’s shirt is the defining item of his wardrobe. Even in the most stuffy work environment, a gentleman is likely to spend most of his day in his shirtsleeves, covering it with his jacket only when he heads to outside appointments or to the conference table. Whatever the dress code in his everyday life, however, a gentleman knows that when he chooses a shirt, he is also choosing a frame for his face. He selects it carefully, in terms of color, pattern, and fit, sticking with a look that suits him even if it means he wears the same style shirt every day. When even the best-loved shirt has grown worse for wear, however, a gentleman lets it go. Stains, broken buttons, and frayed cuffs can detract from even the best-rehearsed sales pitch—or the most heartfelt protestation of love.
41
If a gentleman does not have a tapered
physique, he does not attempt to wear
tapered shirts.
If a gentleman discovers, when he sits
down, that the buttons on his shirtfront
are straining against the fabric, he
moves to a larger shirt size.
If a gentleman finds it a struggle to
button his collar, he moves to a more
comfortable fit.
When trying on a shirt, a gentleman tests
the fit, both sitting and standing.
If a gentleman is thickset, he avoids spread collars.
When hard at work in the office or at
his desk, a gentleman may unbutton
his collar button and loosen his tie.
When he hits the streets for lunch or
a business appointment, however, he
rebuttons and retightens.
42
If a gentleman wears French cuffs,
he selects simple cuff links for the
office or for any occasion that calls
for a business suit.
A gentleman knows that “simple cuff
links” are made of classic metals, such as
gold, silver, or platinum, with settings of
enamel or semiprecious stones.
A gentleman knows that tasteful
engraving does not destroy the
simplicity of cuff links.
A gentleman saves his glittery cuff links,
especially those set with precious stones,
for formal evening wear.
43
A gentleman saves his amusing cuff links,
especially the ones that light up in the
dark, for New Year’s Eve.
When dressing for a formal occasion,
a gentleman’s cuff links need not
match his shirt studs precisely. The
links and studs should, however,
complement each other.
A gentleman does not wear a
short-sleeved shirt with a suit.
A gentleman knows that the term
“short-sleeved dress shirt” is an
oxymoron.
44
When wearing a suit or sports coat,
a gentleman does not leave his
shirttails untucked.
If a gentleman is attending a religious
service, or any sort of formal occasion,
he tucks his shirttails in.
A gentleman’s shirt cuffs extend
approximately a half inch from the
sleeves of his jacket, but a gentleman’s
cuff links never actually show unless
the gentleman is extending his hand or
bending his elbow.
During any meal, a gentleman takes
care to keep his shirtfront clean. If food
should splatter on his clean shirt, he
excuses himself and does the best he can
to remedy the situation with a little soda
water from the bar or some warm tap
water from the men’s room.
45
If a gentleman’s shirt becomes soiled and
no replacement shirt is handy, he does not
call attention to the mess.
If a gentleman’s shirt becomes stained
or faded due to his choice of deodorant,
he tosses out the shirt and changes to
another deodorant.
A gentleman may think he sweats so
little that he can ask for “no starch” at the
laundry. Especially if he lives in the South,
that gentleman is wrong.
A gentleman is not ashamed to ask his
laundry to turn the collars of his good
dress shirts, so that he can enjoy them for
at least a few more wearings.
46
Once a shirt’s collars and cuffs are
irreparably frayed and its color
has grown dingy, a gentleman
acknowledges the fact and wears it
only for Saturday chores and errands.