65

A Gentleman’s Glossary: Suits, Blazers, and Sports Coats

blazer: A nautically inspired jacket, single- or double-breasted, with peaked or notched lapels and brass buttons, usually engraved or embossed with a monogram or insignia. Its classic color is navy blue.

camel hair: A soft-textured fabric, woven from the actual hair of camels, sometimes blended with other fibers, often used for men’s sports coats and overcoats.

cashmere: An extremely soft fine wool, shorn from goats, often used for fine sports coats, blazers, and overcoats.

drape: The manner in which a gentleman’s well-fitted jacket or trousers literally “hang” on his body.

drop: The difference, in standard suit sizes, between a gentleman’s jacket size and his waist size. For most off-the-rack suits, that difference is six sizes. For example, a size 46 suit usually consists of a size 46 jacket and size 40 pants.

66

fusing: A method using heat, pressure, and adhesive to bond layers of fabric so as to reduce the actual amount of sewing. Only a few of the finest custom-made suits are still constructed with absolutely no fused seams.

sports coat: A short, buttoned jacket, of any style, not intended to serve as part of a suit.

tweed: A richly textured fabric, in wool or other fabrics, characterized by a mixture of patterns and colors.

worsted: A smooth wool fabric, woven in a tiny twill pattern, often used for suits and jackets intended for year-round wear.