CHAPTER 5

Blending by Perfume Note

Scents and Musical Notes

As mentioned at the end of the last chapter, British analytical chemist and perfumer G.W. Septimus Piesse (1820–1882) devised a method for classifying scents according to musical scales. As he explained in his book The Art of Perfumery, this method was based on his belief that sound and smell form a link in the brain. Assigning fragrances to certain notes allowed the perfumer to create what he called harmonious scents. For example, a C chord would result in a blend of sandalwood, geranium, acacia, neroli, and camphor. Piesse’s son Charles is sometimes credited with devising this system, because as editor of the book he removed Septimus’s name from subsequent editions after his father’s death.17

Needless to say, Piesse’s system was complex, and the concept was not widely used until William Arthur Poucher (1891–1988) simplified it into three notes. A research chemist and chief perfumer at Yardley of London, Poucher began to classify scents based on their rates of volatility. His book Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps has been in print since 1923 and is still a classic reference in the field of cosmetics. In this method, essential oils are assigned to one of the three notes based on their dominant characteristic and rate of evaporation. The notes are most often called top, middle, and base.

The top note is also called the head, or peak, note. It is the component that is first detected, usually the strongest, but it has the fastest evaporation rate, lasting 10 minutes to several hours. The top note leads the way, but then gives way for the other scents to take over. The middle note is also called the heart or modifier. The middle note is usually detectable 10 to 45 minutes after the perfume is applied and can last several hours to several days. The base note is also called the fixative, or body, note. Its purpose is to slow the rate of evaporation of the top note and to act as an anchor to hold the fragrance together. A base-note scent can last several days to over a week. Working together, the top note introduces the scent, and the middle and base notes create the core of a blend. Mixing an oil from each of the three categories creates a well-rounded blend that unfolds over time.

Blending with Notes

Working with three notes is the theory, but not all oils fit neatly into one category. Some oils are complex, in that they can function as more than one note. Angelica seed oil is an example, and although it is often classified as a top note, it is more in between top and middle. In addition to functioning as either note, an in-between oil like this works well as a bridge smoothing the separate notes in a blend. In tables 5.1 and 5.2, I have included the categories of middle to top and middle to base. Oils listed this way can serve as either note depending on the other oils with which you want to blend them. For example, in a blend of ylang-ylang, lavender, and mandarin, ylang-ylang, with its middle-to-base range, functions as the base note.

Of course, in addition to creating nice-smelling blends, we have the extra dimension of magical intentions to consider. Because of this, using the classic top, middle, and base notes should be thought of as a basic roadmap. For example, I can plan a blend with rosemary, nutmeg, and jasmine because they suit my intention for clarity and protection in dreamwork as well as a basic range of three notes: middle top, middle, and middle base, respectively. A blend with petitgrain, pine, and lavender—top, middle top, and middle notes, respectively—shifts the scale upward but still maintains a three-note spread. Don’t be afraid to experiment with the note ranges, have fun, and explore; you will be rewarded.

Where necessary to avoid confusion, I have maintained details to distinguish between the species of plants, such as spike and true lavender, because they have different notes. Likewise for angelica seed and root oils and a few others that also have different perfume notes. In the case of eucalyptus and fir, where species have the same note—middle top for blue gum and lemon eucalyptus and middle for balsam and silver fir—it should be understood that the single entry of eucalyptus or fir applies to both of their respective species. To conserve space I have abbreviated some of the details, especially in table 5.1. For example, instead of chamomile (German), chamomile (Roman), cedarwood (Virginia), or eucalyptus (lemon), you will find chamomile (G), chamomile (R), cedarwood (V), and eucalyptus (l).

Table 5.1 Perfume Notes of Essential Oils
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
anise bergamot cassia fennel (sweet) hyssop lavender (spike) lemon lime mandarin orange (bitter) peppermint petitgrain rose (Damask) sage (common) spearmint spruce yarrow	angelica (seed) basil bay cajeput camphor catnip celery citronella eucalyptus grapefruit lavandin lemongrass litsea lovage (leaf/stalk) myrtle pine rosemary tagetes tea tree thyme	allspice caraway cardamom carrot chamomile (R) cinnamon clove coriander cumin dill elemi fennel (bitter) fir galangal galbanum geranium ginger hops juniper lavender (true)	angelica (root) benzoin cananga cedarwood chamomile (G) clary sage cypress helichrysum jasmine lovage (root) pepper rose (Maroc) ylang-ylang	amyris birch frankincense labdanum myrrh oakmoss patchouli sandalwood spikenard storax turmeric valerian vetiver

Table 5.1 Perfume Notes of Essential Oils (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
		orange (sweet) oregano palmarosa parsley sage (Spanish) savory star anise lemon balm marjoram mugwort neroli niaouli nutmeg

When you begin mixing with this method, it is best to keep it simple by using only three oils in a blend. In this way you will learn how each oil functions as its intended note and you will be better positioned to combine multiple oils of the same note in more complex blends. Unlike the botanical family and scent-group blending methods, where oils have similar constituents and will generally blend well together, this method has more chance of error. Because of this, the trial test with cotton swabs or blotter strips before actually mixing the oils can be helpful to catch a less than desirable blend. However, if you’re on the fence and not sure if a blend would work, go ahead and try it because it may really blossom when it matures. The situation to avoid mixing oils is when your reaction to the swab test is, “Wow, this is not going to work.”

The simple rule of thumb for blending by perfume note is 3-2-1: three drops of the top note, two of the middle note, and one drop of the base note. Even though the top note may be strong, it is more fleeting and can work in a greater amount. However, when a top note is particularly strong, proceed as you would with the other methods by adding one drop of each oil at a time. Once you have one drop of all three notes, add one drop of your middle note and then one of your top note. If all seems well, add one more of your top note.

Sometimes you may find that a reverse formula is more to your liking, especially if you want to emphasize the lower note. Follow your nose and proceed slowly when adding drops as you work out your blend. When you are happy with the results, follow the same procedure as detailed in chapter 2 for assessing and allowing the blend to mature. Some individual oils become deeper and richer over time, which will further enhance the development of the blend. These oils include frankincense, jasmine, patchouli, rose, and sandalwood.

As with all methods, this is a starting point. After creating a couple of blends with three oils, you may want to experiment by doubling the number of oils for each note. Oils that seem to take over a blend can be tempered with others such as pepper, lemon, or geranium to create more of a balance. You will also find that an emphasis on base notes can create a more spicy or earthy blend. While lavender and sandalwood are a wonderful and traditional combination, you can jazz up this mix by adding a lemon top note. In addition, lavender and sandalwood can be used to enhance and bring out the beauty of other oils, while rosemary and marjoram can help smooth a blend.

Of course, the oils you use for a blend will also depend on how they fit with your purpose. As with blending by botanical family, you may find that you need to include supportive intentions and powers when oils for all three notes do not share the same associations.

Each row in Table 5.2 highlights one oil (in bold underline), which is listed under its correct perfume-note column. The other oils in the row are those that blend well with the highlighted oil. The oils are listed alphabetically down through the table. As in other chapters, this table provides a sampling of combinations to help you get started and contains some abbreviations.

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
lavender (spike), orange (bitter)	bay	Allspice clove (bud), neroli	pepper, ylang-ylang	labdanum, patchouli
bergamot, spruce	citronella, lavandin	lavender (true), ginger, palmarosa	cedarwood	Amyris oakmoss
lavender (spike), lemon	cajeput, lemongrass	coriander, lavender (true)	Angelica (root) clary sage	patchouli
bergamot	Angelica (seed) lemongrass, pine	geranium mugwort	cedarwood, clary sage	oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver
Anise mandarin	eucalyptus (bg), grapefruit	cardamom, carrot, coriander	angelica (root), rose (Maroc)	oakmoss

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
bergamot, hyssop, lime	Basil citronella	geranium, opopanax	clary sage	oakmoss
lemon	Bay pine, rosemary	lavender (true), orange (sweet)	cypress, lovage (root)	frankincense, labdanum
cassia, lemon, rose (Damask)	grapefruit	fir (balsam), neroli	Benzoin jasmine	birch, myrrh
Bergamot petitgrain, rose (D)	basil, grapefruit, lavandin, tagetes	dill, juniper, neroli, opopanax	chamomile (G), pepper	patchouli
	pine, rosemary	clove, juniper	benzoin, jasmine, ylang-ylang	Birch

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
bergamot, lavender (spike)	Cajeput pine, rosemary	lavender (true), niaouli	cedarwood, ylang-ylang	labdanum
	Camphor bay, cajeput	caraway, ginger, lavender (true)	chamomile (G)	frankincense
bergamot, rose (Damask)	citronella, lavandin	cardamom, lemon balm, neroli	Cananga jasmine, pepper	labdanum, oakmoss
anise, cassia	basil	Caraway orange (sweet)	chamomile (G)	frankincense
cassia, mandarin, neroli	bay	Cardamom ginger, parsley	cedarwood, ylang-ylang	frankincense, patchouli

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
bergamot, lavender (spike), lime	grapefruit	Carrot cumin, geranium	cedarwood, cypress	frankincense
Cassia	grapefruit, lavandin, rosemary	clove, ginger, lavender (true)	benzoin	frankincense
lemon, lime, peppermint	Catnip eucalyptus	cardamom, lemon balm		myrrh
bergamot, spruce, yarrow	citronella, rosemary	fir (balsam), juniper, palmarosa	Cedarwood (A) jasmine	amyris, vetiver
rose (Damask)	citronella, rosemary	lavender (true), palmarosa	Cedarwood (V) benzoin, cypress	amyris, patchouli

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
lemon	Celery pine, tea tree	coriander, lavender (true)	lovage (root)	oakmoss
bergamot, lemon	camphor, tea tree	geranium, lavender (true), neroli	Chamomile (G) benzoin, jasmine	patchouli
bergamot, rose (Damask)	camphor, tea tree	Chamomile (R) cumin, tarragon	clary sage, rose (Maroc)	frankincense
mandarin, orange (sweet), spruce	lavandin, thyme	Cinnamon (bark) clove, elemi	benzoin, fir (balsam)	frankincense
lemon, spruce	rosemary, thyme	Cinnamon (leaf) clove, neroli	cedarwood (Atlas), ylang-ylang	frankincense

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
bergamot, lemon, peppermint	Citronella basil, pine	coriander, geranium	cedarwood	amyris
hyssop, sage (common), yarrow	basil, lavandin, pine, tagetes	lavender (true), sage (Spanish)	Clary Sage cypress, jasmine	frankincense, sandalwood
mandarin, rose (Damask)	bay, cajeput, myrtle, tea tree	Clove (bud) allspice	rose (Maroc), ylang-ylang	patchouli
cassia, peppermint	cajeput, grapefruit, lavandin	Clove (leaf) nutmeg	clary sage, rose (Maroc)	sandalwood
bergamot, petitgrain	celery, pine, tagetes	Coriander neroli, opopanax	cypress, jasmine	amyris, frankincense

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
anise	lavandin, rosemary	Cumin galbanum	chamomile (G)
lemon	bay, lavandin, pine	marjoram, palmarosa	Cypress benzoin, clary sage	sandalwood
bergamot, lemon, spearmint	eucalyptus (l) lemongrass	Dill elemi, nutmeg	pepper	spikenard
lime, mandarin, sage (common)	eucalyptus (l) rosemary	Elemi lavender (true)	pepper	frankincense, myrrh
lavender (spike), lemon	Eucalyptus (bg) pine, thyme	lavender (true), marjoram	cedarwood	oakmoss

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
lemon, spearmint, rose (Damask)	Eucalyptus (l) pine	geranium, palmarosa	jasmine, rose (Maroc)	frankincense
bergamot, lemon	basil	Fennel (bitter) marjoram	pepper	frankincense
Fennel (sweet) anise, lemon	basil	cardamom, geranium, parsley	rose (Maroc)	sandalwood
lavender (spike), peppermint	pine	Fir (balsam) lavender (true)	benzoin, cedarwood	sandalwood
fennel (sweet), lemon	pine, rosemary	Fir (silver) galbanum	benzoin, cedarwood	labdanum

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
bergamot, orange (bitter)	bay, basil, camphor	elemi, neroli, opopanax	angelica (root), benzoin, pepper	Frankincense myrrh
lemon, lime, sage (common)	lavandin, litsea, myrtle	Galangal allspice, parsley		patchouli
spruce	pine	Galbanum geranium, tarragon	lovage (root)	frankincense, storax
bergamot, rose (Damask)	grapefruit, lemongrass	Geranium clove, neroli	rose (Maroc), pepper	myrrh, patchouli
lemon, lime, rose (Damask)	litsea	Ginger orange (sweet)	rose (Maroc)	vetiver

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
anise, bergamot, lemon	Grapefruit bay, rosemary	galangal, neroli, palmarosa	cypress	frankincense
lavender (spike), lemon,	lemongrass, litsea	chamomile (R)	Helichrysum rose (Maroc)	labdanum, oakmoss, vetiver
lemon	bay, litsea, pine	Hops lemon balm, nutmeg
Hyssop bergamot	bay, myrtle, rosemary	geranium, lavender (true)	clary sage
lime, petitgrain, rose, spearmint	eucalyptus (l), litsea	chamomile (R), coriander	Jasmine cedarwood (Atlas)	birch, storax, vetiver

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
bergamot, lemon	pine, rosemary	Juniper fir, geranium	benzoin, clary sage	vetiver
bergamot, lemon, lime	bay, cajeput, lavandin	juniper, opopanax	clary sage, helichrysum	Labdanum frankincense
bergamot, lime, spruce	Lavandin bay, rosemary	cinnamon, oregano	cypress, ylang-ylang	amyris, storax
Lavender (spike) petitgrain	eucalyptus, pine, rosemary	clove, lemon balm	cedarwood, rose (Maroc)	oakmoss, patchouli
cassia, lemon, lime, peppermint	bay, celery, litsea, myrtle	Lavender (true) elemi, palmarosa	cedarwood, clary sage	galbanum, myrrh, patchouli, vetiver

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
Lemon fennel (sweet)	bay, catnip, eucalyptus	chamomile (R), neroli	benzoin, ylang-ylang	frankincense, sandalwood
lime, petitgrain, rose (Damask)	lavandin, thyme	Lemon Balm dill, savory	clary sage, jasmine	frankincense
bergamot, lime	Lemongrass tagetes	lavender (true), orange (sweet)	angelica (root), cedarwood
Lime bergamot, lemon	basil, citronella, rosemary	niaouli, nutmeg	clary sage, jasmine	oakmoss
bergamot, petitgrain	Litsea basil, rosemary	ginger, lavender (true)	cedarwood, ylang-ylang	frankincense

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
rose (Damask)	Lovage (leaf & stalk)	galbanum, opopanax	rose (Maroc)	oakmoss
	bay, celery, lavandin	galbanum, opopanax	Lovage (root)	oakmoss
Mandarin rose (Damask)	eucalyptus (lemon)	cinnamon (bark), clove, nutmeg	jasmine, ylang-ylang	myrrh, sandalwood
bergamot, peppermint	eucalyptus (bg), tea tree	Marjoram fir (silver)	cedarwood, chamomile (G)
sage (common)	angelica (seed), pine, rosemary	Mugwort clove, juniper	angelica (root), clary sage	amyris, patchouli

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
mandarin, spearmint, yarrow	catnip, pine, thyme	elemi, juniper, lavender (true)	benzoin	Myrrh sandalwood
bergamot, hyssop, yarrow	Myrtle bay, lavandin	clove, galangal, ginger, parsley	clary sage	turmeric
lemon, rose (Damask)	grapefruit	Neroli allspice, geranium	benzoin, clary sage	frankincense
fennel (sweet), lime, peppermint	basil, cajeput, myrtle	Niaouli lavender (true)
mandarin, petitgrain	bay, rosemary	Nutmeg clove, geranium	clary sage	oakmoss, turmeric

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
anise, lime	bay, eucalyptus (blue gum)	ginger, orange (sweet)	clary sage, ylang-ylang	Oakmoss vetiver
bergamot	basil, lovage (leaf & stalk)	Opopanax coriander, fir	clary sage, lovage (root)	labdanum, vetiver
Orange (bitter) anise, lemon	lemongrass	nutmeg, orange (sweet)	cypress	myrrh
lemon, lime, sage (common)	citronella, tagetes	Orange (sweet) cinnamon, ginger	clary sage	labdanum, myrrh, oakmoss
lavender (spike)	camphor, lavandin, pine	Oregano	cedarwood, cypress	oakmoss

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
rose (Damask)	lavandin, grapefruit	Palmarosa geranium	cananga, cypress	amyris, sandalwood
anise, rose (Damask)	myrtle, tea tree	Parsley coriander, cumin	clary sage, ylang-ylang	oakmoss
bergamot, rose (Damask)	angelica (seed), lavandin	geranium, lavender (true)	angelica (root), clary sage	Patchouli myrrh
lime, rose (Damask)	lavandin, rosemary	lavender (true), marjoram	Pepper rose (Maroc)	frankincense, sandalwood
Peppermint lemon, spearmint	catnip, citronella, rosemary	lavender (true), marjoram	benzoin	myrrh

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
Petitgrain lavender (spike)	litsea, rosemary, tea tree	carrot, neroli, palmarosa	benzoin, clary sage, jasmine	frankincense, valerian
lemon, sage (common)	Pine cajeput, tea tree	lavender (true), mugwort, savory	cedarwood, cypress	birch, spikenard
Rose (Damask) bergamot, lemon	litsea, lovage (leaf/stalk)	chamomile (Roman), neroli	clary sage, jasmine	frankincense, sandalwood
anise, bergamot, lemon	litsea, tagetes	clove, ginger, lavender (true)	Rose (Maroc) benzoin, pepper	patchouli, sandalwood
cassia, lime, peppermint	Rosemary bay, pine, thyme	cumin, elemi, mugwort, oregano	cedarwood (Atlas), pepper	frankincense, labdanum

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
Sage (common) hyssop, lemon	grapefruit, lavandin, pine	lavender (true), orange (sweet)	clary sage, pepper
lavender (spike)	eucalyptus (bg), pine, rosemary	Sage (Spanish) elemi, ginger	cedarwood, clary sage
bergamot, fennel (sweet)	grapefruit	geranium, palmarosa	benzoin, jasmine, rose (Maroc)	Sandalwood vetiver
lemon, lime	pine, lavandin, rosemary	Savory (summer) lavender (true)		oakmoss

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
bergamot, lime	lemongrass, pine, rosemary	Savory (winter) orange (sweet)		oakmoss
Spearmint mandarin	basil, lavandin	dill, lavender (true)	jasmine	myrrh
lavender (spike), petitgrain	bay, pine	dill, geranium, lavender (true)	clary sage, rose (Maroc)	Spikenard labdanum
Spruce	lavandin, pine, rosemary	galbanum, lavender (true)	benzoin, cedarwood	amyris, oakmoss
rose (Damask)	lavandin, pine	Star Anise orange (sweet)	rose (Maroc), ylang-ylang

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
rose (Damask)	lavandin	galbanum, lavender (true)	jasmine, ylang-ylang	Storax
mandarin, petitgrain	Tagetes grapefruit, litsea	lavender (true), orange (sweet)	clary sage, jasmine, rose (M)	frankincense
lime	basil, pine	Tarragon galbanum	chamomile (G)	labdanum, oakmoss
petitgrain	Tea Tree pine, rosemary	cinnamon, clove, ginger	clary sage, ylang-ylang	oakmoss
bergamot, lemon	Thyme pine, rosemary	fir (balsam), lavender (true)	pepper	myrrh, turmeric

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note (continued)
Top	Middle to Top	Middle	Middle to Base	Base
	myrtle, thyme	clove, ginger, nutmeg	clary sage, ylang-ylang	Turmeric labdanum
mandarin, petitgrain	pine, rosemary	lavender (true)	cedarwood	Valerian patchouli
rose (Damask), yarrow	angelica (seed)	ginger, lavender (true)	clary sage, jasmine	Vetiver sandalwood
Yarrow hyssop	myrtle, pine	chamomile (R)	cedarwood, clary sage	myrrh, oakmoss, vetiver
bergamot, lemon, mandarin	cajeput, lavandin, litsea, tea tree	allspice, neroli, palmarosa	Ylang-Ylang jasmine	birch, oakmoss, sandalwood

Sample Blend

I like to use this blend for divination, working with astral familiars, or any time I feel the need for support in focusing my mind and energies. All three oils—bergamot, geranium, and clary sage—help sustain concentration. Geranium supports psychic energy and work in the astral realm; bergamot brings psychic protection as well as heightened awareness and communication with spirits. Clary sage, which I use as the base note in this blend, supports psychic abilities, divination, and clairvoyance. It is also associated with truth, which brings a sense of authenticity.

Psychic Focus Blend

Bergamot: 7 drops

Clary sage: 4 drops

Geranium: 3 drops

In the next chapter we will explore a method of blending based on my own exploration into the Pagan symbolism of the various parts of plants.

[contents]

17. MacEwan, Chemist & Druggist, 152.